Kinda sorta in the same vein, does anybody remember this little ditty from about 1958?
Immediately after its release, radio stations quit airing it cuz it spoofed their whole genre. :lmao:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qSxDNaaKWkY&t=284s

Don't bother with those plug-in "Buzz-X" units. I paid over $70 for one and so far has proved to accomplish nothing. I actually was warned about this, but a fool and his money......

The two types of interference to AM that I am familiar with is line carried and Wireless (RF).

Line carried can usually be filtered out with a small inductor in series with a capacitor connected from the line input to chassis (L type Filter) Earlier Tube type Auto Radios had a Hash Filter, a simple Pi network with a few turns of wire forming a coil in series with the line and a capacitor on each side of the coil to ground. The purpose of this was to filter out the vibarator points switching. Both the the L and Pi filters work well for line carried noise. Electric iron thermostats (before Wash and Wear) constantly switched off and on to maintain the iron temperature. This made radio listening difficult, so much so plugin power line filter were marketed. The Filters were slightly longer and about the diameter of a 'D" cell, with a male plug on one end a female on the other. Plug one of these in Receptacle and plug the radio into Filter and Mon could listen to the soap operas while she ironed! It is better to eliminate a noise at the source than filter it out. Easier said than done. Sometimes line noise in carried in from the other customers on the same pole transformer you are on.

Wireless interference of the buzz hum and static type is usually beyond our ability to filter because it is a radio frequency noise usually generated by a spark. As it is a Radio Frequency Radiation, the FCC has determined the amount it can radiate. It is a very small amount, if you can hear more than a hundred feet in may be too much. The power company through proper maintenance could eliminate much of this type noise. A cracked insulator, a tree limb against the line or a vine growing onto the line are some of the sources. Other Sources of this type noise although not common are industrial and medical equipment. An AM auto radio tuned below 700 KHZ off station is an easy way to detect Wireless interference. If the noise signal is weak it will become louder as you get closer to it until it gets strong enough to trigger the Radio's Automatic Volume Control. After the avc is triggered, increased signal strength will not make the noise louder.

If someone really wanted to find the source of this type of interference it would require a Standard Broadcast AM Field Intensity Meter. Directional AM Radio Stations would have one. With one of these, the interfering noise can be tuned in, the direction of the source determined and followed until the exact source location is reached.

GF33

I built a shop within an unused 3-story ag building. When I installed my lights, I found that dimming ballasts on T8 lamps obliterated AM reception and that standard electronic T8 ballasts caused severe interference on FM that other post T12-era lighting causes. older T-12 and other magnetic ballast lighting only needs a good ground, rarely does it cause this.

Unfortunately,it is acceptable to FCC. I grounded lighting and switched phases without much improvement as the fluorescent tubes actually radiated the interference. So much for indoor antennas.

I got an LED shoplite at costco, no interference at all.

One item that I found important to note is that built-in any kind of loop antenna will be affected if near a switch-mode power supply. This includes PCs and many power supplies in commonly found stuff around the house. Anything that should, but does not have a transformer is suspect!

I have transplanted into some radios the M-derived line voltage filters (from scrapped monitors) using common-mode inductors found in SMPS, ironically the same equipment causing interference. Its pretty hard to put filters on all the suspects, why a portable radio is key to sniffing them out.

On a radio requiring an external wire antenna, this extra step helps especially if already using an X2 or if a transformer set, two Y2-rated safety caps plus a grounded cord. Night DX reception at the office then was actually possible.

This worked better than expected on late 30s radios - a Philco 37-650 and a Zenith 5R135, where a 20 foot antenna placed under a rug in an otherwise noisy environement, pulled in the same stations as my GE "superadio" portable but with LESS noise.

Hi, I read the three pages and I noticed some discussion on linear amplifiers. What would you have to buy to boost a radio signal on a ge super radio so I can get far away radio stations?

I also have a portable Midland cb as well.

I've heard good things about the loop antennas CCrane sells.

Linear amplifiers are usually for transmitters for ham radio and CB use.

For reception an amplified antenna or a long wire is the way to go....If you really want to have fun DXing find one of the better rated portable world band radios made today. They will be better than a super radio on AM and you get SW as a bonus. About 10 years ago my Sony ICF7600 was the best thing you could get in the $150 price range...It's one of my favorite new purchases ever.

Ccrane no longer sells them. Best bet is Ebay.

I often listen daytime on the kitchen radio to WHP 580 Harrisburg PA, which is about 40 miles from me. If the LED fixture (on dimmer) in the kitchen is on, there's a strong buzz on the station regardless of dimmer setting. However, if at the same time I switch on another ceiling fixture in the kitchen, which still has a couple of CFL bulbs in it (no dimmer), and then adjust the dimmer on the LED to a point about 2/3 full, the buzz will be greatly reduced. Just a happy combination of inductance and capacitance, I guess.