You may be right, I only tested the 2.7ohm resistor in the circuit, many times after I take out a resistor, it measures fine...

Okay, replaced all resistors as needed, and now just waiting for the 6CD6 tube to get here...

Quick question: there is a .47 capacitor ( C211 ) off of the 6AV6 tube, which I replaced, but Sams and Rider schematics both show it to only be a .047...
Did they make a mistake at the factory?

In the audio stages capacitance value is non-critical....you could probably install whichever value sounds better and the set won't care which that is.

Perfect... that’s good to know, thanks!

Okay, now that I replaced about 7 resistors, I get nothing on the screen again!
I looked over the values and locations many times...
I did remove some strange looking resistors, at least according to the schematic they're supposed to be resistors...
Maybe these are just those unusual types found in these sets because of the war?
Just want to be sure I didn't remove something I shouldn't have!

Do the color codes on the parts match the value on the schematic?
At least one of the parts in the bottom row look like it may be a coil.

Why did you not remove the old wax paper capacitor? It isn't still connected is it?

hard to tell from the pic, but perhaps it is just being used for support.

Yes, the color codes do match the schematics values, all except the 2 small brown resistors tied together, they only have one green stripe each, but are close to the schematics value when measured...

Also, the old wax capacitor shown was riveted in place, and I just figured I'd leave it and use it for support, as Yamamaya said... though I did cut it out of the circuit...

I put in a temporary 6BG6 tube, and got light on the screen...
figured i'd replace about 8 resistors that were not close in spec... now I get nothing.
So frustrating...
I have learned with electronics it can usually be a very simple overlooked item, like the wrong value resistor, bad soldering job, etc...I have rechecked my work over and over.
I even went ahead and put back the old resistors just to see, still nothing.
In the future I think I'll replace one component at a time and see if ieverything still works before proceeding...

Okay, finally figured out what I did wrong...

I replaced the 2.7ohm resistor under the 1B3 tube, with a 27ohm!
I installed a new 2.7 but still no picture?

Could I have done any damage to something using that over valued resistor??

No damage should have come from using the high resistor....it would be no different from a HV rect with an open heater.

Have you tried holding a CFL light bulb next to the flyback and or H output tube with the set running to check for drive to the flyback?

Thanks, good to know that didn't hurt anything...
Yes, I just tried the bulb now... Looks like the flyback is running...
The only difference in what i did, is that the 2.7ohm resistor was originally a
1 watt; my replacement is a 1/2 watt...
Schematic only calls for a 1/2watt.
Old Coot said it should be fine...

OC is right.

If you have a pulse at the fly and no HV, the rectifier tube is the next suspect.

What I would do if I didn't have a HV probe handy is to hold an insulated screwdriver at my fingertips and touch the cap of the HV rectifier tube. In a dark room, you should see the soft blue arcing between the tip of the screwdriver and the cap. Make sure the tool keeps at least two inches of plastic between your fingers and the metal shaft. If that CCFL tube lights, you should get a soft arc from the cap of the HV rectifier tube to the screwdriver.

If you see the arc, move to the anode connection on the picture tube and see if you have it there. If not, the HV rectifier tube or doorknob cap might be bad.

John

The 1B3 filament glows a soft orange when in operation. In a darkened room, you should be able to see it glowing if you look up from underneath the tube. No glow = no go. :D

mine was bad... REALLY BAD.
https://imgur.com/z7NnpHg

while I waited for a new one to come, I got it to work by ripping apart an old microwave and using the HV diode in there.

Hm... talk about gaslighting.

If the rect heater is good and lighting but there is no HV at the CRT you can check the doorknob capacitor by disconnecting one end. Make sure that which ever end you disconnect you slip a cup, saucer small jar or some other glass or ceramic insulator in the disconnect gap to prevent arcing.

Small quibble, but you won't get that 'air arc' from the CRT anode like you do from the 1B3 cap, since the CRT anode voltage is DC. The 'air arc' is from high level RF ('fly-back') spikes from the flyback.

A b&k hv probe is not TOO overpriced these days, are they? :o

Thanks, did what you suggested and yes, I did get a soft good stead arc at the cap of the 1B3... nothing at the CRT anode.
I then tried a bunch of used 1B3 tubes I had laying around, but still nothing...
Then I turned down the brightness halfway, and got a picture!

I was testing all the time with the brightness up, which should have been fine, since it was all the way up when I first got a decent picture.

Problem is, picture is barely visible now, and blooms and goes dark if I turn up the brightness more than halfway...

Also washes out and brightens a little when I turn up and down the contrast, it almost acts like a brightness knob.

$120 for a B&K Precision HV44A High Voltage Probe ??

that's over 4x what I got mine for years ago :o

Sometimes there is a high valued resistor in series with the HV lead that can go bad. Have you measured the resistance from the base of the HV rectifier to the metal cone ?

Be sure to discharge it first. ALso make sure the HV lead is making good contact with the metal cone. I assume there's some sort of clip on the rim ?

Glad I don't buy my probes on eBay... I've gotten 3-4 used Pomona HV meter/probes similar to my model 4000 from swapmeets over the last 10 years and none has cost me more than 1/10th of that.

Blooming with brightness turned up is due to HV failure as CRT beam current lugs down the HV supply. Have you verified visually that the 1B3 filament is glowing (as suggested previously)? If it's not glowing, it hasn't got enough emission to sustain the HV under load.

(EDIT) If it's not glowing, I would temporarily jumper that 2.7 ohm resistor and see if the filament glows.

The X-rays you would be exposing yourself to wont be THAT dangerous! :D :yikes:

It's not like you will grow a 3rd eye or a 2nd head or anything! :)

I read back through this thread and saw that you did check the 470K in series with the HV lead. I've seen those resistors act weird. Possibly as a result of carbon tracks from years of HV around them. Wouldn't hurt to replace it or jump it. Ditto to jumping the 2.7 ohm on the 1B3. Something is limiting your HV current.

this looks a lot like your chassis
https://www.earlytelevision.org/pdf/...sams_100-1.pdf
or pretty close
and it seems there is 1 1m resistor in series with the HV output lead,

I believe he has a somewhat newer 21D1 chassis: https://www.earlytelevision.org/pdf/..._rider_tv6.pdf

between the 2, it should get him in the ballpark for what he seems to have, if he can't find what it is for sure, I was not able to find ant that has that weird arrangement of the HV rect on top of the cap in the pic like he showed.. that is a bit weird :o

Thanks, I will change out that 470K just in case, I think it measured 450K; and i'll jump the 2.7 like Old Coot suggested and see what i get...
First I'll look to see if the 1B3 tube has a glow at all, forgot to do that...

Checked, and no glow at all on the 1B3 tube...
In the morning I'll change out the 470K, then jumper the 2.7 ohm and see if it glows... thanks everyone!!

Look at the last page of the 21D1 service info. It's shown in the middle of the page.

I see it now :p

As Notimetolooz noted, it looks like the three strange resistors on the bottom are not resistors. They are either capacitors or inductors. If you still have the three parts you removed , you can check them with an ohm meter. If they were resistors as you thought, then you will get readings fairly close to the color codes. Where in the circuit did you remove them from ? Also make sure your Horizontal Drive Adjustment capacitor is not tightened all the way, it can cause the picture brightness to act up because your horizontal output will start to red plate as the set warms up. You can check for an arc at the base of your 1B3, the filament pins. See Post # 45's picture.
Ed

Hope everybody doesn't hate me, but today when I went to jump the 2.7 resistor,
I noticed I didn't put in a 2.7ohm, but a 2.7K ohm...
My resistor drawer, marked 2.7ohm, had a few 2.7k's mixed in.
I obviously didn't pay enough attention to the multiplier band, and was only focused on the red and violet.
I must be getting old as I mentioned earlier.
Sorry to waste everyone's time like that... I do appreciate the help.

There is now a clear picture, and the CRT is nice and bright!
Glad I rescued this from the dumpster.

The only thing now is the audio dies down pretty quickly and there is an annoying buzzing sound in the speaker. Volume is maybe halfway clear.
There's also some horizontal lines across the screen, I did try to carefully adjust a few horizontal pots in the back, but didn't do much...
I was able to follow the schematics guide to adjust the horizontal Drive, which did get rid of the center vertical lines though.

Glad you found the problem. If those are retrace lines, there is a circuit modification you can make to suppress them.
The modification for this and many other Admiral models can be found in the Riders publication.
http://oldtubes.net/library/free_man...ures_Vol_1.pdf

Or they might be from copyright encoding.

Also that the image is in 4:3 format and should not fill the whole screen vertically.

Something more like this taken from my set with the same chassis.
https://flic.kr/p/23iBMxx

Looks good, :thmbsp:. You could try setting the brightness lower to reduce the vertical retrace lines. There may also have been a revision for that chassis/ model to reduce retrace lines. Look through literature in the pdf file.

Thanks... good to know; and I was doing my best to fill the screen with the vertical adjustments!
I will take a look at that TV trouble cures book and see if I can't fine tune this now...