Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn (Post 3236348)

For what it's worth your L22(Philco 32-4754-3) crosses to Thordarson HS-16.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/23403929297...IAAOSwy9pguZCy

Originally Posted by madlabs (Post 3236351)

Wow. You guys are awesome. I am going to try running the set with the coil shorted out. Last night the contrast and everything was out of whack from pulling the knobs off and pulling the chassis out. So I will see how well it runs as is. I did pull one of the dead coils from my parts board and it appears the open is inside. I may try peeling some wire off to see if I can find it. But if it runs ok as is I will go with "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". Because every time you perform surgery there is a chance of screwing something else up.



Again, wow! Thanks for not only looking up the cross reference but linking the part for sale on ebay! I couldn't click but it now fast enough!

Now, back to some tile work. Flipping real life is such a pain. But I will fool with the set again later.

Thanks! I really, truly mean that.

Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn (Post 3236348)

For what it's worth your L22(Philco 32-4754-3) crosses to Thordarson HS-16.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/23403929297...IAAOSwy9pguZCy

Originally Posted by Yamamaya42 (Post 3236353)

oddly enough
that is exactly the same part that they are selling in the link I posted above from Talon!
Item #
COIL152
Other Part Numbers
GE WT36X402 RCA 111380
and they have 3!
not so hard to find after all!

Originally Posted by old_coot88 (Post 3236352)

If you can find the break in that coil, there's a neat method of stripping hair-fine wire without mechanically abrading it, called the 'aspirin trick'.:D No lie, it really works. Put an aspirin tablet on something like a jar lid. Use a soldering iron (or gun) to heat the aspirin so it forms a puddle. Dip the end of the wire in it, and the hot acetacylic acid strips it clean. The fumes are gawdawful, so use plenty of ventilation. :yuck:

Originally Posted by madlabs (Post 3236356)

Took a break from tile and fired up the set. It looks really good. So I am of a mind to leave it alone. And I have the sub part coming so if it becomes a problem I am ready.

One question I have, is if I am going to run it shorted would it be better to tack a resistor instead of a wire to short out the coil? I just want to make sure that too much current isn't flowing.

Again, thanks. I'm gonna have a beer and watch Honey West later.

Originally Posted by madlabs (Post 3236356)

One question I have, is if I am going to run it shorted would it be better to tack a resistor instead of a wire to short out the coil? I just want to make sure that too much current isn't flowing.

Originally Posted by Tom9589 (Post 3236372)

This reply is slightly OT, but it might explain the repeated failures of this coil. I had to replace over the years all four speakers in my Suburban. Every time it was the same fault. The wire coming from one side of the voice coil broke at the point of connection to a larger wire. The person assembling the speaker obviously didn't know of old_coot88's trick with the aspirin. I suspect that the assembler was using a sharp (dull?) blade to scrape the annealing off of the wire and damaged the fine wire in the process.

I finally gave up on GM speakers and switched brands. No more problems.

Originally Posted by madlabs (Post 3236369)

The set is working great. So I will emulate Madman Muntz and just leave the coil shorted.

Originally Posted by old_coot88 (Post 3236398)

The coil and its paralleled cap were probably intended to stabilize the circuit against thermal drift. So when the set is warmed up good, you might wanta watch whether the H lock point is drifting off (or not).