Got the back off. Not seeing any leaky or bulging caps. Right Tom trying to figure out the easiest way to get the D board out so I can flip it but the plastic it sits on doesn't want to slide out and I'm not seeing any clips. God I hate working on the big wega sets. I only worked on one other one several years ago to change out two ic chips because it was dead with blinking led codes. Got it running only to find that it had took a pretty good hit to the top left corner and the shadow mask had shifted. Anyway, here's some pics so far. I'm gonna try to get this out and stand it up to where I can see the bottom side so I can check. Can someone circle the area I should be looking at? My eyes are not very good and also I can't get the tray that the D board is mounted to slide out.

You probably have two separate problems Your first was a
sync problem but good OSD. See the block diagram for hints.

The second problem NEEDS to be addressed first. If you cant find
it junk the set. And dont forget to grab yoke wedges & correction magnets !

That sub board with the giant SMD IC is probably where the sync problem lies.
Odds are a cap is bad but there are probably a crap load of 'lytics on it.
That means the others are probably on the way west. A lot of S happens on that board.

This is NOT an early SS set that can easily be repaired & you need to
keep that in mind.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

Yeah, tell me about it. Lol. You referring to that B board for sync? I have that one out and looking at it. All the suspected caps are surface mount?

Looks that way with SMD caps. To be honest if this showed up at the shop
we would most likely try to order the board. If it was NLA we would
condemn it after calling Sony TA. Some would see it as a challenge but as
a rule you would loose a LOT of $$. Cant pay the bills.....
You may want to look for an NOS board IF you fix the other problem BUT the 'lytics are old & do go bad even if never used. I know it sucks but thats the reality.:tears:

73 Zeno:beer:

Ok ty much. I'll see if I can replace or fix but it might be a loss.

I can't find a replacement. I'm assuming it's 1-684-698-13.

Got the board out. Had it checked by someone. He went over the bottom and hit a few places that looked questionable. I don't have the proper iron for this. I put it back in and tried it and now it doesn't start up. It just clicks, blinks led 3 times then clicks again.

On the very first attempt, it's sounds like it's gonna turn on. Probably the sound of the degauss. Any attempt after that is just one relay, 3 red led blinks, then another relay. Nothing else. Not even static on the screen when you touch it like you'd get if it turned on.

With the TV unplugged, go the horiz output and measure resistance from collector to emitter. It should be virtually open. A short means the transistor is bad.

If there's no short, measure the voltage on that transistor from collector to emitter - it should be over 100VDC. If that's missing, you work back toward the regulator. If that voltage is there, we work on the horizontal drive.

Is there a schematic on-line?

John

I downloaded the pdf of the service manual. Would u be able to show me on the manual where I need to test? I'm not familiar with emitters and collectors. My 30 years with self learning is limited. I tried sharing it on her but it's like 15 mb.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/85...v-32hs510.html

Do I need to leave the board in to do this or can I take it out?

I've given up on this one.

Board in if you can get to the test points - out if you need swing room.

Have you measured the voltage at the collector of the horiz out?

John

Naw, even if I did get it to turn on again, I'd be back to replacing all the caps for the vide. Apparently these sets aren't so good for old games because there's some sort of lag.