Sand resistor is all messed up. I cut it out and measured it. First section measuring 280 ohm...next two sections measuring in the 25-50k range. Final section is around 60 ohms. Have the appropriate 20 and 10 ohm high wattage wirewound resistors to replace. We'll see what happens.

Are you referring to R77? Which seems to be the only multi power resistor in the set? ( 13/17/8 ohms?)

Or something else? If it's R77, then the heater string must be very starved of power!

Yeah, I'm surprised the tubes lit up at all.

Yep…R77 and those resistances

Well...let me make certain I'm measuring this correctly. Is it lug one to two for the first section and lugs two and 3 for the second section and so on or is it measured some other way?

Section B ( what was between R76 tie point and tuner pin 4 wire ,also lamp m3) should be 13 ohms
Section A ( tie point and tuner pin 4 wire to tie point and tuner pin 3 / C53 ) should be 17 ohms
Section c ( tie point and tuner pin 3 / C53 to far point of part to filament strings) should be 8 ohms

anything way beyond this is big trouble :(

Yes, that is how it is measured

I replaced it like Bob's 2016 Flickr photo with 20 watt resistors at 15, 15 and 10 ohms. I remeasured the 9BR7 socket resistances. All in line except 4 and 5 both reading over 4 meg.

Those are the filament pins. You will only get a meaningful reading on the filament pins if all tubes are in their sockets and the power switch is turned on. Don't apply power to the set, just have the switch on. That completes the circuit to the hot chassis.

Great thank you! Will continue checking, put together a database of all the socket resistance readings and see if that gives me and anyone else a picture of what went wrong.

OK, but I don't think you need to go quite that far. First thing I do when I find a value that is way off what is expected, is to start examining that circuit.

Once a problem is detected, I like to track it down rather than look for other problems. They might very well all be connected. Fix that first problem and any others might well be resolved.

It was suggested you start with the 12CA5 because it is a crucial piece of the power supply.

Check the resistance readings, soon as you find one that is waaay off (ignore the filament), trace out the connections to that pin.

Thanks Bob for taking the time to hang in there with me on this! I will investigate the 12CA5.

I tend to agree, it has to be related somehow, from what I can see, 260v C only goes to 2 points, and is fed via a 2.2k resistor, very easy to pull down, point 1 is the audio output, where you are seeing the odd resistance checks, fed to G1 via R45 (820K) pins 2-5, the other is the horizontal oscillator, via L22 & R62 @ V10 pin1.
Of course, another suspect would be C2c, if perhaps you see a lower resistance to ground on the power supply of R45 than on pins 2-5 side, one way or another, something has to be pulling that 260v C down, and the weirdness at the audio output is a yellow alert, you have to find the red! :P

OK I think I found the issue after checking resistances on 12CA5. It led me to check the C2 can electrolytic that I had cut out of the chassis and replaced with a terminal strip containing the 4 electrolytic sections. Embarrassingly, the 2.2k resistor was still attached to the c (triangle) tab on the old C2 can. So, I think if I run the resistor between the positive lead of the 100uf replaced C2 section B and the positive lead of the replacement 22uf C2 section c, that should restore voltage to 260v C. Waddya think?

Yes, that resistor feeds the 260 volt bus from the 280 volt bus.

Are pins 2 and 5 on the 12CA5 socket physically connected? I'm still getting 0 ohms on 2 and 500k on 5. I don't have the yoke speaker or CRT plugged in however. I can't see where that would make a difference.

i can't say about the socket, you will have to look and see, but the tube inside is. 12CA5 = 6CA5

http://www.nj7p.org/Tubes/PDFs/Frank/093-GE/6CA5.pdf
Only diff is the heater.
you should not be getting 0 ohms, UNLESS you mean infinite resistance, from a pin not connected.

First Light
 

The 2200 ohm resistor was it. It's a little bit distorted because of the angle but it's got almost full vertical deflection and about 75% horizontal...all through a 200 watt bulb. I can't thank everyone who helped out enough for hanging in there with me! So excited!!!

Congrats! Try it without the light bulb. It's limiting the power to the set way too much.

Wow...full screen...static on screen and speaker...bright as all hell. Had to turn the brightness down about 30%.

Bob Andersen you are the man! Thank you so much for your advice and guidance!

Congratulations!!!! Excellent and I will NOT insert that obnoxious dancing banana! :thmbsp:

Then I will! :banana::banana::banana::banana:

Good work finding the issue!:banana::D

Now it's time to post some screenshots of video from the general year the set was made, like The Twilight Zone or Bonanza! :P
In the same way I picked Lost in Space for my 1966 CTC-16XL! :)

Honeymooners...probably too early...The Munsters...that's the ticket!

Need to get it on the pattern generator and dial it in first. Then I need to buff and polish this fish smelling plastic safety cover. I've had some luck so far using automotive buffing compound but I bought a car headlight restoration kit like Bob suggested in one of his thousand Predicta posts over the years. We'll see how that does.

Car 54, Where Are You?! :)

Thanks so much Tom! I know I take you guys down some dark alleys chasing red herrings. I appreciate the help so much.

One of the reasons that was hard to run down is because the Sams shows it in the schematic but it’s not identified in the chassis photos and it does not have the alphabetical/numerical designation like R63 or R57. I don’t think it’s in the parts list either.

Later revisions did not use that resistor. The original Philco service info does show it.

Predicissues
 

OK power issues cleared up. I'm running a crosshatch pattern from the generator. Looks like the vertical is OK, I can get it to lock but I believe there are serious horizontal sync problems. I've got a NOS set of Holiday tubes on order in case this is a tube issue. Sound is good...tube is nice and bright, sharp and the contrast works great. The only problem is I have spaghetti for an image.

Couple of questions. How is this horizontal linearity magnet supposed to work? How do you do adjustments with it? It's basically a bar magnet on an L bracket that's wedged between a band around the yoke. It has the Philco hidden adjustment pots behind the brightness, vertical and horizontal controls. Should I wait until I have reliable tubes before I start playing around with these adjustment controls?

Thanks everyone

Chris

You push the magnet forward or pull it back. It either gives that side of the screen a slight assist in deflecting electrons or holds it back. That has nothing to do with your issue though. I'm thinking it might be more of an issue in the video amp. Like you have ringing in the video signal or the if alignment is off. What effect does fine tuning have? How do other patterns or live video look?

What generator are you using?

I get the feeling the horizontal lock is off in that picture and 3 of the vertical bars are getting smeared across the screen during retrace. I forget if this model had the H AFC SS diodes, but those are often the problem when you have good vertical sync, but no horizontal sync.

Fine tuning doesnt make it any better or worse...It doesn't help with clearing it up if that's what you mean. I haven't tried live video yet. The single cross pattern has a horizontal line across the middle of the screen and 3, equally spaced vertical lines. Single dot has 3 dots across the center of the screen left to right. Generator is a Sencore VG48. I'll try some live video in a bit.

This is a generated single cross that's supposed to be centered

That screen is indicative of the horizontal oscillator being WAY off frequency, L22 tweaked way too far, or something wrong in that area? For some reason it's not at 15.734 kHz -15.625 kHz where it should be.

IIRC these sets have a coarse horizontal frequency pot hidden inside the hollow horizontal hold pot shaft. Just need a small flat edge screwdriver long enough to reach it.

It looks like L22 was off by quite a bit. I have a picture now albeit a poor one. It's a YouTube recording of an old CNN video that in itself, isn't great quality but the picture fed out of my RF modulator is a bit snowy and not sharp. The modulator works fine as a source on other TVs. Is this an IF section issue?...maybe weak tubes?? All original tubes in it because they all tested good.

And I have no idea why photos that I'm posting the same way as I did when they were in the correct orientation are now posting 90 degrees counterclockwise.

Cell phone picture? It happens all of the time. You can use something like MS Paint or Adobe Photoshop to rotate the picture, save it and then post it. The orientation is embedded in the picture.