Just to be on the safe side, is good to check or sub the pulse H cap (or resonating/efficiency cap). Is one generally having one pin to collector of HOT and another to ground (like the ceramic cap), in the board. It have values in the vicinity of 6 to 12nF, with at least 1600V of WV. A failure with that, and the HOT shortens out.

I just checked the cap list I'd made, there are no capacitors in the TV that are in the realm of 1600v. I will check again since there are four 160v caps used and there might've been a read error.

This TV has ceramic caps on the HOT collector (red wire). Since they're not electrolytic, unlikely to fail IMO.
https://i.ibb.co/TYn8nZH/EFFCAP.jpg

Are you willing to take that chance?

In my experience, only electrolytic caps manufactured in the 90s/Y2K go bad. I've never really seen a ceramic cap spoil, and even electrolytics from the 70s and 80s still hold up alright.
That said, I do have a single 1500pf @ 3000v ceramic cap lying around. I'm not sure whether the 700pf difference in capacity matters.
So YES, if the 1500pf cap isn't a suitable replacement I will try running the set anyways once the HOT is mounted correctly. I think I'll be very lucky if the HOT blows again; with the proper mica insulator and all - and new HOTs cost less than a bag of jerky anyhow.

Edit: don't just take my word for it, ask our mother ship https://audiokarma.org/forums/index....#post-11556769

I remember when HOTs were over $25.00 at Ness Electronics, as for ceramics I've seen those stacked units shift over time. I'm a 20 year member of Audiokarma and there has been a debate on & off over the decades. Regardless, I'm not into spending money on transistors just to blow them out on a chance that come capacitor is somehow going to behave, I grew up in a TV shop during the late 70's and early 80's and have seen plenty of magic smoke.

1) THOROUGHLY clean up tape mess
2) replace HOT & mica, compound each side & tighten evenly
3) remove B+ fuse & replace with dim bulb tester.

Now run the set watching it. The pix may be a little small and / or have
hum bars. Turn off & feel HOT every 5 mn for heat. Should be just warm.
Over current will brighten the bulb & lower HOT current. If that happens look
for a symptom, burning etc. If it runs an hour or 2 its probably OK.

This is old school BUT I remember going to a GE seminar @1975 & they
taught it for the same problem on the new SS sets, blows HOT instantly.

Zeno:smoke:

Did that, plus I recapped the TV yesterday. While recapping I found both 4.7uf caps had leaked. The one in the HOT circuit leaked so bad, one of the legs had disintegrated. I'm 99.9% sure THIS bad cap was the reason the HOT kept blowing!!
https://i.ibb.co/JzDCGTN/P4150056.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/W6xjX9X/P4150057.jpg
After the recap. Unfortunately as it turns out a few of these are actually bipolar, so I couldn't replace them as I didn't order any bipolar caps. Should I be worried about them?
They're marked "BP" in the image
https://i.ibb.co/9V7K1zS/after-recap.jpg
I also got the mica insulators today but I still don't really have proper hardware for a bulb tester. Is it necessary?

Excellent!

About the bulb jig... is to be at safe side, due to incertainty about the flyback and PSU, to save potential HOT.

Is really possible to one of these subbed parts or the mica/tape being the culprit, but since is impossible in practice to test a flyback with DMM's, is important to consider the possibility.

Some wires, a bulb and it's socket is all needed.

Anyway, if you are very curious and wants to see it working ASAP:

Make sure to measure the PSU (the +B for HOT) at switch on with DMM already connected, to see if PSU is throwing too much voltage and promptly turning off the TV if is the case. IF the flyback is the culprit, the HOT will shorts again (so, some spare HOT is needed for this).

Late note: in fact, these bulbs are saved a lot of HOT and other parts for technicians using it, including myself.

I already measured +B. it sits around 133V at the lowest setting but you can crank it up to 140V

New HOT, new caps, new mica insulator... and the H lock is totally out of whack. aaand I somehow blew the HOT again. Video tomorrow.

Is good to find the service manual or schematic with voltages, to be sure. For some TV's, 133V is fine, for others, is a lot (some works with "only" 90V; and I have one with 190V!).

Is good to check the oscillator zone. If it generates too distorted pulse (too different from the correct waveform), also have a chance to eat some HOT.

Here is a video showing the lightbulb test and hsync garbage. https://youtu.be/8A4rwF6vGKM
Perhaps I might've broke something in the +B circuit/Horizontal circuit by running with too big of a bulb, though.
edit: Towards the end of the video, you can see the HOT disconnect. Slapping the set on the side gets it back on.
I don't have an oscilloscope.

Slapping the set screams of bad solder connection, a very common problem with these.

Yeah, but I don't see any bad joints on the board. What could be the culprit?

HVSD a.k.a High voltage shut down.
On most sets if it activates the set goes dead. On Panny, RCA Hitachi &
some others of this era too much HV causes the H osc to go off freq.
to reduce HV. Your set is probably like that.
133 volts may be OK but you need to see if it changes. Use a variac
or go from zero brightness to full brite. It must stay the same.
Cause I have seen was always the power supply. Also the B+ control
has to go lower @125 V to put the 130VDC in range.
A manual IS needed now.

Zeno

I guess it's important to mention the +B measurement was taken before the recap. It may be different with fresh caps.
What do you mean? Last time I checked +B the lowest it could go with the adjustment pot was 130V. Max was 140V. But like I said, it may be different after the recap. I sure was foolish not to recheck +B.
I've been corresponding over email with someone who has a physical copy of the Sams' for this set. I asked them to send the part that shows the normal +B voltage and the H osc circuit.

Why in the he$$ are you buying transistors from Ebay. 99% are junk

<vent>First off, why in the hell are you too big of a pussy to say "hell" without censoring it? Sorry for encroaching on your Christian beliefs:smoke:</vent>
Secondly, I buy only QUALITY, ORIGINAL parts. The HOTs I bought are 100% legit, old stock!! And eBay is only a marketplace, you can't just say all parts sold there are junk. That's like saying all the produce at a supermarket is rotten. Maybe at yours it is :D

+1 , Especially sellers Dalbani, Semitronus and ceitron, pretty much all counterfeit stuff. I stick to the old RCA SK, GE and ECG lines - all of them came before the Chinese dumpex of fakes eBay is so littered with.

In the 90s, Dalbani was a go-to, but in the early 2000s, they suddenly had every video jungle chip out there, all remarked counterfeits.

38+ years in the biz, and I can see a fake a mile away.

Really. Everything about the HOTs I bought seemed correct - except for the fact they were of a slightly different package type. The original had a flat top but what I bought came with a bulged top.
So, where would I get a "real" replacement? The original HOT installed was a Matsushita 2SD517.

For me, in the case of TO-3 Horizontal Outputs WITHOUT integral Damper Diode, I use the RCA bagged or boxed 2SD822. RCA bought them by the bucket loads from Toshiba to offer an OEM HOT - in the 1980s. Don't buy them loose or with a shiny top - all 1980s/original 2SD822 transistors were frosty finish. The bagged ones are best, as you can guarantee no swaps with fakes. BTW, all lot "3A" 2SD822s are fakes. Chinese vendors never switched lot codes, and a 2002 produced fake and a current fake, same lot number.

Of note: the later 2000s "SK Series" (no RCA logo) 2SD822s are suspect. Thomson bought and produced a whole line of supposedly OEM transistors, ICs, STRs, and STKs, but many were counterfeit from the get-go.

If you can't find a RCA packaged 2SD822, then go with the SK3710, ECG238 or GE-38, all of which were produced before the Chinese dumpex.

Nearly all of my replacement were bought 1981-1992, so I know my stock of parts is genuine. I can't say that for some servo amp MOSFETs and Transistors I have to buy for current repairs - it's a minefield. eBay simply ain't the answer - unless it's sealed bags from RCA SK Series, GE's Pro-Line Replacements, or ECG bagged / boxed parts. Replacement guide for each is on the Internet Archive site, so cross reference is at hand, free.

NTE has had a rash of fakes - mostly in their STK replacements, some audio power amp transistors and a bunch of their "commodity" (high demand) parts.

Off topic a bit, but still somewhat germane, beware of Motorola transistors bearing post 1999 date codes. As of August 2000, all Motorola production was spun off to OnSemi, with their logo appearing after that date. ONSemi PCN 10143:
"ON Semiconductor will begin the changeover from the Motorola logo to
the ON Semiconductor logo for packaging materials on May 15, 2000
and for part marking on July 15, 2000. This General Announcement
affects all ON Semiconductor part numbers.
Motorola logos will be removed from bar code labels and will not be
replaced with the ON logo (ON Semi bar code labels will be "plain").
For a period of time, you may receive mixed shipments of ON
Semiconductor and Motorola bar code labels, packaging and parts."

And yet, Dalbani will happily sell you a Motorola transistor bearing a 2004 (0420) date code:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/144102545290

Cheers,

I found one lot of open box 2SD822's on eBay for a better price than what I paid for the 2SD517's. https://www.ebay.com/itm/254620362049 Comes in original old stock boxes. Should I cancel the 2SD517's? Will the 2SD822 be a GOOD 2SD517 replacement?

The 2SD822 seems slightly weaker than the 2SD517. For instance, the 2SD517's maximum Collector-Emitter Voltage is 700v, whereas 2SD822's is 600v.
However, a 13" CRT is pretty small. The 2SD517 datasheet says it's "Designed for use in large screen color deflection circuits". Did the designers of the CT-1310M use a better rated HOT than necessary?

More of what was available in mass quantity for the best price in the day. When I was in broadcast those Panasonic 1310's were a staple in the edit suites and were more forgiving than the Sony to poor sync and other issues but they suffered from cracked solder connections mainly around the CRT socket pins and the row of power resistors in the supply chain. The connections may "look" good but in fact may have a slight hairline crack, this is common with TO-220 devices where the center lead expands more and pushes harder than the others being it's the collector and part of the metal tab, power resistors will dissipate a significant amount of heat through the leads. Any time there is thermal cycling there is going to be mechanical stress and you're dealing with 40-some year old wave soldered connections that were the minimum to make the set work then.
If all is well in the other circuits the counterfeit transistors should work just as well as the original.

I canceled my order of 2SD517's from ceitron. I'm gonna use 2SD822's instead.

Never mind, then. I cancelled my order cancellation.

+B is supposed to be 130v. Sams' schematics courtesy of damen.
https://i.postimg.cc/25SRsrjb/Panaso...1annotated.jpg

Or there abouts, it's never spot on and will vary according to beam current and other factors.

What's normal HOT temp? It was warm last run, but that could be heat from the flyback.

Good question, I guess my rule of thumb is bath water warm but no more than what your fingers can tolerate for say 10-15 seconds. Sorry I can't put a number to this but the HOT itself is known to run warmer than the transistor in these.

New HOT, cleaned CRT pins & reflowed pads on CRT socket, and the TV is still doing the same shit (no lightbulb!). The picture starts normal but then gets too bright & loses H sync. At this stage +B is 131 to 132v. The colors get VERY saturated, and soon Green disappears followed by Red and Blue. Then all you've got is a bunch of monochrome garbage lines dancing across the screen. Sometimes, a bright colorful flash appears indicating something just disconnected. +B jumps to something like 139v in this state, and what once was a fluctuating whining noise becomes a monotonous high pitch. Orange filament glow disappears I think.
https://i.ibb.co/4sMdbZJ/P4220070.jpg
Next to the flyback, there is a pot labeled "SUB BRIGHT". Should I bother?

Edit: Just did another test run. The picture lasted for a few seconds but then the magical flash appeared and +B dropped to 127v!

Row of a what now? "supply chain"? What am I looking for

Those big resistors just to the north of the B+ adjustment. Seriously if it was mine I'd go over every solder connection on the board with a touch of solder and replace all of the supply capacitors, they're 40 years old now and not getting any better.

It doesn't help that the nearly half-century old flux smells bad when heated. I already replaced all the electrolytic capacitors in the video circuit (sound circuit was left mostly untouched) - what exactly is a supply capacitor?

The capacitors that are involved in the power supply itself, replacing the caps in the video circuit have nothing to do with the power supply itself. Those would be the likes of C558, C805, C502, C307, C203, C564, C1603 & 1604 for starters.
I know that flux smells bad, been burning that stuff since the late 70's myself so I know where you're coming from but when you described having to hit the set and things started working that was the first clue to intermittent connections. The gradual shift to bright then loss of H-sync points to either a thermal issue that might be taking down a power supply line or a bad capacitor that's hogging current. You found that bad one over in the horizontal and while the 80's didn't have the "capacitorgate" they're still prone to failure due to their wet internal construction. Just the nature of them.
If the smell of the flux is that offensive it can be washed off using either acetone or isopropyl alcohol however the main board should be removed as these will damage the cabinet plastics.

Learning electronics isn't easy, after 45 years I'm still learning and getting off the ground can be really tough when you're dealing with a tough dog. Test equipment is essential but sometimes the best tool is the experienced gained over the years, best advice I can offer is to take it slow, read & study the schematics and stick with it. I started swapping tubes in old B&W sets when I was in the 3rd grade when Carter was in office. You will get there, problems are only opportunities in work clothes that are designed to bring you up to the next level. You CAN do it.

well go ahead and buy the junk i was just telling you it is mostly junk as you have found out.

I think it may also be an issue of the tube drawing TOO much current. Because the picture looks brighter post-recap. Almost too bright. It actually gets less focused.
That's why I alluded to the Sub Bright pot. Perhaps we can see if running dimmer will stop the horizontal f*ckery. Then we will know if it's an undercurrent or overvoltage problem.
I'm tempted to think it is overvoltage, like zeno said.
Thanks for the pep talk, although slightly unnecessary. :) I know I'll get the set in tip-top shape eventually.
My last and first recap was a Macintosh LC. The logic board required surface mount caps while the rottening power supply used through-holes.

The #F002 will open if HOT shortens out, probably. If +B are not collapsing to zero V when image disappears*** (in fact it will rise due to R802), confirm measuring if HOT really shorted out. Perhaps only the oscillator can stopped due to some overload (try to run with brightness and contrast to minimum, normally this will suffice and not needs to adjust the sub bright).
Perhaps the screen grid (G2) are cranked up. Is interesting to reduce it to see that happens.

***if is the oscillator protecting something or faulty oscillator.