That could be, the purity adjustment wasn't fun and maybe not 100% perfect, I'd call it 99%. Not only did the yoke not move enough to get to where I could see where the red spot (in it's entirety) was, but the lateral magnet/purity ring assembly is either a weird design that puts the rings behind the magnet, or it was installed backwards. I do wonder if it can be turned around so that the rings are easily accessed. Of course, that would put the clamp up near the convergence magnets. I used a permanent marker to indicate exactly where this was positioned, but I could imagine having to circle back to fixing purity when reassembled, anyway.

This is the side that has been facing out:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...g9IHXW-uk=w500

The rings are tucked behind. I haven't seen another CCII photo with this particular assembly. The grainy pic in the SAMS seems like it *might* be the same, though.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...DfC5oFS8E=w500

Good evening! I ended up checking all of the diodes and replaced all of the carbon comp resistors. Upon reassembly, I found that some of the adjustments for red and green magnets were no longer working. I removed all 3 magnets and found that the red and the green each had an open coil. The connections looked to be corroded. I was able to fix both sorry looking ends of the bad red coil. Sadly the green magnet is now FUBAR. (I actually managed to solder if but broke it when snipping off excess wire. bummer)

Does anyone happen to have any of these from a neck board kicking around? Numbers on the magnet are S-94731 273S7722

I have seen people just replace the ends of the wire with new wire. As long as you don't alter the number of turns a great deal, they should still work within adjustment range.

I do know what FUBAR means, but perhaps you can peel the onion back a little more than you thought you could, and try to solder a new wire onto the ends.

Aye, that's where we ended up once I carefully unraveled it a bit, trying in vain to find the new end. It became a mess, unfortunately.

I am looking forward to trying adjustments again once I find a donor- I've only had particularly good luck with moving blue around, and now that makes a bit more sense.

I've dismantled a few upright CCIIs as CRT donors for older sets. I probably have a compatible convergence assembly at home. Not sure I have time to dig one up tonight with 2 oil changes and some other chores that need doing.

Your set doesn't have Zoom correct? (I know zoom sets has a more complicated deflection yoke and possibly convergence too) I haven't parted out any zoom sets.

Hey Tom, thanks in advance for checking, whenever you do find a moment. This one does have zoom, but at least visually, this non-zoom model seems to have the same magnets- https://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=265234

Ok I've got 2 different upright chassis Zenith CCII convergence boards.
This 3 wire that came out of a working set that I want $20 plus shipping for.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...40945e67_b.jpgIMG_20250709_180931626 by Tom Carlson, on Flickr

And this 5 wire that is missing an adjustable slug tuned transformer a couple of the pot knobs, and has a chipped loose board corner on the top left where the top of that power resistor goes. It came out of a non-working parts set and I want $12 plus shipping for it .
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...a50496c1_b.jpgIMG_20250709_181055375 by Tom Carlson, on Flickr

Thanks for checking, Tom. Both styles of magnet appear to have the same part #, but the first one, with 3 wires, has the same style that I have; I'm definitely interested. I tried to send a PM to work out details, but it said your inbox is full.

You can email me if you click on my username. If you send me your zip code I can find a box and get a shipping quote.

I sent over an email (I think) There wasn't any feedback from the forum software, but maybe that's typical.

You have to inquire to
https://chesterelectronics.com/

https://www.moyerelectronics.com/
Doug

It's sad how the NTE cross reference embed just doesn't resolve anymore.

I've got your email. I need to find a box and visit a post office.

Quote received and email sent.

I've been unable to reply back to this since the site has been down, but thanks Tom!

It turned out that my main problem with the convergence board was that when I replaced the resistors, I used a 47k in place of a 47ohm resistor, which provides the ground to the controls that weren't working (I realized this because the controls worked when in zoom mode... zoom provides a different path to ground) I DID need a couple of the magnets from Tom's neck board though. I was able to get everything dialed in pretty nicely, enough that I was content with it.

My wife helped me move the set to the other side of the room, at which point the color purity was distorted, figures lol. I've lived with that for a couple of months, until just recently, color will drop out. Sometimes it'll come back if I power off and back on again. I've cleaned and checked the adjustment pots on the 9-86 chroma subcarrier board, checked that the oscillator is working with a scope, verified voltages. Adjustments of these pots don't seem to have any bearing on color loss, neither does fine tuning the tuner. I put in an order for a replacement board on ebay; it was cheap enough that I don't mind just changing it out to see what we get.

Aside from that, I'm really just looking at finding or making the missing pedestal now

One thing to watch out for is the little individual 100uF 50V axial lytics on the chassis. They rot open with age and can mess with various things including color in interesting ways. I had one that leaked and one of the leads rotted off. One side of the picture was exaggerated Technicolor and the other was stark monochrome because of that cap....This was on a flat chassis set.