Originally Posted by Mr.Duncan (Post 3258974)

Still digging into the vertical issue. Removed the chassis, triple checked all capacitors, re-did all the solder points to be safe.

Swapped out both Vert OSC (6BF6) and Vert Output (6DT5) with some good NOS tubes.

Replaced R50 with a new resistor.

Still got vertical collapse. - I guess I could work backwards from 6DT5?

Set the line voltage to 117v AC.

When checking 6DT5 I got the following voltages:

1. Pin# 1 280.1v (spec is 275)
2. Pin# 7 20.52v (spec is 20v)

Originally Posted by Electronic M (Post 3258986)

Those voltages are completely normal. With line voltage set to the same 117V as Sam's anything within +/-25% is normal (in stages like vertical or CRT gun grid/cathode where the bias is controlled by potentiometers the normal range can be much larger than 25% and it's sometimes wise to adjust the relevant pots to make sure they can get the voltage that sam's says should be there.

If all the vertical voltages measure normal you may want to check the output transformer, and yoke and their connections to each other.

Originally Posted by Username1 (Post 3258999)

.

Good Morning - Just a quick note - Things to check - On pin 3-6 of V10 the vert output,
put your finger or a DVM probe on it with nothing attached and see if the line on the
screen moves up or down, or if you can put any 60Hz signal on it like from a Signal
gen, or radio speaker on it there should be deflection. If none - then you should
check for any voltage on the plate of V10, since there is no deflection, it should
be completely safe, looking for about 280V. If nothing, track through the T2
to see if you have it or if T2 has open windings. If you get deflection when
you touch G1 of V10, then you have to go Back into the Osc, Don't forget
to look at the feedback loop through R45, & 46.

Also, most important -
Since this tv worked before you replaced parts, keep an open mind to
the possibility that you wired something wrong, My money is on a
mistake in wiring or part placement. Also, see that 25ma current
reading for the cathode of V10, that is often printed where they
tell you not to measure the plate voltage, You can lift one side
of R51 and check the current, to see if the tubie is conducting.
Also be ready to check voltages on V9 as well.... Also -
The Vert Hold has a plug & socket in the schematic - If you
have this on your tv be sure to check that if you had to
undo it to work on the set.... Good Luck!

.

Originally Posted by Mr.Duncan (Post 3259002)

Will do! - I'll check these tonight.

I'm always open to me making a mistake, perhaps I just haven't seen it yet. I did replace capacitors one at a time, while using tape to mark the wire connections (as to not lose track of the positions when replacing)

C2 did blow up - which is the reason why I replaced ALL capacitors at the same time, I probably should have replaced JUST C2 first and done testing.

I assume when I touch pins 3-through-6 of V10 it will cause the output plate of V10 to cause vertical deflection?

Why does the schematic say "DO NOT MEASURE" the plate output / Pin# 9 of V10? - The voltage doesn't seem THAT high?

Originally Posted by Alex KL-1 (Post 3259028)

I believe that the correct size fill and linearity for the vertical will not over stress the parts.
But, the image show here are not fill in horizontal direction... the image feed have the lateral bars, or the horizontal needs some adjustment?

EDITED: changed the question.

Originally Posted by Yamamaya42 (Post 3259037)

Hello fellow "big mamma" Maggie 24AHP4.owner! :D:banana:

Originally Posted by Mr.Duncan (Post 3259055)

Oh! We're these tubes considered big in the early 1960's?

Originally Posted by Mr.Duncan (Post 3259082)

I left a sticker inside the unit with my phone # and a QR code that takes you directly to this forum thread.
...

Originally Posted by Yamamaya42 (Post 3259056)

They were one of the biggest BW tubes ever made, however, they don't last very long, cause they tend to push the gun rather hard, mine works, but is on the weaker side.

I got it all for free, as it was just a chassis and CRT from a set that someone made into a pet bed, It's a newer one than yours, but still uses a 24AHP4.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PvMHr4-WO8s

Originally Posted by Mr.Duncan (Post 3259057)

I think I need to re-cap the power supply to my Blonder Tongue, I'm getting a rolling bar on the screen. Rolls from bottom to the top. This occurs on both my CRT TV's.

Originally Posted by Electronic M (Post 3259106)

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Yeah, better than half my BTs have new caps...One of them had its bridge rectifier die during a lightning storm (which is weird because it and it's antenna are in the basement and there was a ton of other stuff plugged in and running that wasn't harmed).
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