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-   -   What is this? (http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=248474)

colorfixer 08-03-2010 02:26 AM

Here's my $0.02:
-It could be possible that the mask deformed during the heating/evacuation cycle.
-If the tab(s) had detatched from the ring that surrounds the mask, there is likely not that much movement that would occur, and I concur that there would be something rattling around inside the envelope. Tapping the envelope would reveal microphonics. The mask looks really tough in any event.

-What about a damaged or misconfigured gun, with trajectories off or damage to the lens element structure?

miniman82 08-03-2010 02:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eric H (Post 2979629)
Looking at that mask the dots are arraigned in triangles like some of the splotches.


It does make sense that if the mask did come loose and pull back from the screen, the beams would be larger once they actually reached the phosphor...

Quote:

If the tabs snap on to glass posts I can see them getting broken, but then you should have stuff rattling around inside the tube.

Good idea, I'm not as averse to shaking the tube as I am to tapping it.


colorfixer: I find it highly unlikely that the mask would deform in the oven, remember they have to bake these things when they're new as well. That and the fact the Scotty claims a very good track record on all glass tubes, according to him the onyl troubles are with metal/glass ones. I.E. 21AXP, 15G, ect. I don't think there's anything wrong with the gun either, since all the screen/grid controls work like they should.

DaveWM 08-03-2010 07:03 AM

did you say its the same with just a blank raster?

eberts 08-03-2010 07:05 AM

It is not a gun problem.
Even if the gun was installed improperly, you would still be able to get purity, you would not be able to converge it.
Usually the frame of the shadow mask does not dislodge from shipping, the mask part will bend and get a dimple in it when dropped. In your case, it looks like it was dropped hard enough to pop the mask frame right out of the contacts embedded in the front glass panel.

miniman82 08-03-2010 08:51 AM

Tried the 'tipping trick' with no joy, also tried tapping the tube in different areas. Still the same result no matter what I do, which seems strange. I would have thought it would move at least a little, but it might just be jammed in there really well.

Here's pics, as promised.

First one is blank raster, brightness cranked up to see the splotches. Then I turned on the guns one at a time: first blue, then green, then red. Red is the most telling of course, you can clearly see the edge of the shadow mask off to the left. :tears:

5th photo is actually an animated GIF, so you can see the progression.

miniman82 08-03-2010 09:29 AM

Ah well, when life hands you lemons...

At least I got a cool signature block now! :p

ctc17 08-03-2010 10:39 AM

Who will be the first to make that their avatar?

The front is thick, over 1/2" so it could take a really hard hit and not break. Maybe even hard enough to pop the metal out and move it and not break the glass. Thats why I was asking about the safety glass because it would break long before the crt.

Did you try contacting Scotty? or is he done and gone now?

I had mine insured for $1000 and collected just about all of it.

freakaftr8 08-03-2010 10:56 AM

I may go as far as to guess considering the moire pattern on the screen, not only did the mask come loose, but it way have deformed in the CRT, dimples and small creases causing the pattern you are seeing.

miniman82 08-03-2010 11:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctc17 (Post 2979657)
Did you try contacting Scotty? or is he done and gone now?


I have made arrangements with Scotty to drop the CRT back off at UPS, pending a damage claim- it's obvious now that the mask is off kilter. :thmbsp:

I looked through the glass, and you can clearly see it has come off one of those locating pins on the inside. It slid towards the front, even taking some of the aluminized coating with it as it went. So, it's on it's way back.

I gotta say, I know how he's been in business for this long- CUSTOMER SERVICE. Something you'll never get when you call a 1-800#, and the guy on the other end rattles off a prompt card so fast in a thick accent you don't know what hit you. He even offered to rebuild my 'dud' as an act of good faith! Not that I have a dud, I ordered this tube as a spare, my original CYP is still perfect. We'll see what happens, hopefully we can work something out.

3 cheers for Hawkeye!

jr_tech 08-03-2010 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by miniman82 (Post 2979660)
I have made arrangements with Scotty to drop the CRT back off at UPS, pending a damage claim- it's obvious now that the mask is off kilter. :thmbsp:

I looked through the glass, and you can clearly see it has come off one of those locating pins on the inside. It slid towards the front, even taking some of the aluminized coating with it as it went. So, it's on it's way back.

I gotta say, I know how he's been in business for this long- CUSTOMER SERVICE. Something you'll never get when you call a 1-800#, and the guy on the other end rattles off a prompt card so fast in a thick accent you don't know what hit you. He even offered to rebuild my 'dud' as an act of good faith! Not that I have a dud, I ordered this tube as a spare, my original CYP is still perfect. We'll see what happens, hopefully we can work something out.

3 cheers for Hawkeye!

BRAVO! Indeed, 3 cheers for Scotty/Hawkeye! :thmbsp:
Thanks for taking the additional pictures, it is very interesting seeing the moire' pattern with the 4 different gun illumination conditions.

Earlier, (post 2) I opined that the mask was tilted further away from the screen at the bottom. A little later, old_tv_nut (post 25) stated that the mask was "leaning back, that is the upper part is farther away from the face". Thinking more about it, I think old_tv_nuts' description was correct, and I was thinking backwards... could you verify if it is the top or the bottom of the mask that has slid closer to the screen ?

All this talk of shipping damage has me worried... today I am expecting a Celestron telescope to arrive via UPS... got my fingers crossed!
jr

old_tv_nut 08-03-2010 01:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr_tech (Post 2979661)
BRAVO! Indeed, 3 cheers for
Earlier, (post 2) I opined that the mask was tilted further away from the screen at the bottom. A little later, old_tv_nut (post 25) stated that the mask was "leaning back, that is the upper part is farther away from the face". Thinking more about it, I think old_tv_nuts' description was correct, and I was thinking backwards... could you verify if it is the top or the bottom of the mask that has slid closer to the screen ?

jr

Actually, I'm now guessing that the top is moved toward the screen. Moving either way from the correct position will cause a tighter blob pattern. I should not have assumed which way until Nick posted an observation.

Eric H 08-03-2010 03:24 PM

This is a real bummer.

I had thought about sending my middling CYP off to Scotty before it was too late but I was worried about it getting broken.

I also have a NOS FJP I got about 10 years ago sitting in a closet, I assumed it's OK because it wasn't broken but now I'd like to try it in the set to be sure.

If it was 1968 there would be a market for a tube like that. http://www.clipartguide.com/_small/0...-1119-3503.jpg

jr_tech 08-03-2010 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eric H (Post 2979675)
This is a real bummer.
I had thought about sending my middling CYP off to Scotty before it was too late but I was worried about it getting broken.

One possibility could be that the initial factory weld of the spring clip to the shadow mask assembly was poor to begin with, and worked loose in shipping...this appears to be a rare failure! If I needed to have a tube rebuilt, I would not hesitate to send it!

jr

miniman82 08-03-2010 06:12 PM

On a side note, there is a very obvious difference between the brightness level of the old CYP and the sulphide FBP. The FBP is a ton brighter, and doesn't seem to drag down HV as much. Since my literature refers to the FJP/FBP's as sulphide, does that mean the CYP/AXP's are rare earth?

old_tv_nut 08-03-2010 09:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by miniman82 (Post 2979684)
On a side note, there is a very obvious difference between the brightness level of the old CYP and the sulphide FBP. The FBP is a ton brighter, and doesn't seem to drag down HV as much. Since my literature refers to the FJP/FBP's as sulphide, does that mean the CYP/AXP's are rare earth?

CY/AX are pre sulfide and and also therefore pre rare earth, which came after all- sulfide, replacing the sulfide red, first with a vanadate and shortly thereafter with the europium, which is now the standard formulation.

I forget what's in the CY, may be the same as the AX. the AX had essentially the same phosphors as the 15G, including NTSC green. That's why I wish the rebuild of my AX had been successful.


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