Thank you for the kind words. I do try to keep things right
but I also use a lot of IIRC's. It has been 40 yrs and if I
am wrong I dont mind being corrected.
Aside from family the TV biz was the best times of my life.
Remembering back at the first flat chassis I saw it was
love at first site. I just wanted to stare at it & fondle it !!!
( no I am NOT a sicko ) I just knew even as a snot nosed
punk teen it was something special never to be improved
or matched, a one of a kind, a last shot of balls out
bullet proof US product.

Thanks for the memories 73 Zeno:smoke:

To find more dates look on the filter can, yoke, IC's, flyback,
controls. Almost always 4 numbers for week & year. Other
date schemes are usually unreadable. Dont remember the years Avantis
were made but believe it was C-F lines. And yes most major
console models came with or without remote.

BTW Avanti in Italian means roughly "forward" or "ahead". So
a Zenith Avanti or Studebaker Avanti are forward in styling etc.
Just another useless factoid...........


73 Zeno:smoke:

HA. Same here (with the IIRC)
When my Uncle got back from Vietnam, he bought out the Zenith dealer. ( I think in 1971) and I always LOVED hanging out in the store. By the late 70's, I worked there thru high-school. My memories are of the CC2 line and System 3. We hardly ever had a repair on anything he sold, except for a tripler once in awhile. Not sure if Zenith's liked to eat them, or if it was just the era where not everyone had A/C, and the Nebraska summers had anything to do with it. I loved house-call day. In that era, we made TONS of money of the POS CTC-38 chasis. Our town was small, but we had 2 other shops.. the Sylvania dealer and the RCA/Magnavox dealer. The RCA dealer had been in business since 1949, but once the old man died and the sons took over, the repairs they did left much to be desired, which.. kept us busy. Grandpa worked in the store as well. The most hated sets for us ( on the bench) were any catalog store sets, and Motorola color sets....
And yep.. the flat chassis set was m favorite. Would love to find one now.

I hope you discharged it first. ;)

Seriously though, not sick, just hardcore. I think the same can be said of a lot of us here.

i restored an avanti cabinet once for a friend.wesleys bleachwhite works very well as does butyl soap.will clean it up good and proper.just dont overclean it.noticed purple label crt.what is difference between that and the green label crts?

Well she's getting there (clean, that is). I got that sticky gunk off of the tube around and on the anode cup and wires. I had to use goo gone and follow up with a little windex. The sticky black stuff was also all over the yellow ground straps. They're nice an clean also. I was afraid to push too hard trying to clean around the yoke, so I think I'll get some long swabs for that. I also lost some of the inside cabinet markings by mistake. I was using a damp rag to wipe the side of the CRT and I brushed up against the inside cabinet and poof, the markings were gone with no effort at all (darn).

The place I ordered the orange drops from has already shipped. I should have them by Tue or Wed and can continue.

IIRC the labels with perfs & says Rauland div. are origional new
set tubes. Others are all new or rebuilt. I think rebuilds are yellow
tagged but its been toooo long.
Anyone else ?

73 Zeno:smoke:

i have green labels in all of my ccII sets.the purple label is in my later model ccII and i remember them in flat chassis sets.doubt if these are rebuilds.well gardner sets had green label rauland branded crts.un less the green labels were all rauland built and purple labels were built by someone else.someone please clear up this mystery!

Nice find!
 

Those flat chassis sets were workhorses - they'd eat a few caps, a diode or two, but they kept on plugging.

Here's some service gouge for your set - hope it helps.

Cheers,

I just got the non-remote non-avanti incarnation of this set for free.

When I'm doing the grayscale adjustment, do I turn the color control down? It says to turn it down, but that's when you don't have a b&w program. It says to turn it to minimum if you're using a color program. But what about for the G2 adjustments? Like I said in an earlier post, I can't get the red raster line to show (even with the control at max and the tap on HI). My gut tells me that if the color control is active in setup, then that would really make it more difficult to adjust the G2s as the color control can be in many different positions at the start of calibration.

Also, it says to adjust the G2s with their taps on HI and after you've adjusted them to use a B&W program and move the taps to remove color in the white areas. What I need to know is if adjusting the taps doesn't remove the color, is that because the G2 was adjusted too hi compared to the other guns? Would I then redo the G2s or just reduce the one showing in the white areas?

I hope this makes sense.

Thanks! This is helpful. I do see one that might possibly be an issue. It's the one about the lower half having varying height.

...

Where would I measure the G2 voltages? From the CRT socket? If so, do I just pull the socket off while it's operating, put the black probe to chassis ground and stick the red one in each socket and note the voltage? Do I move the G2 control back and forth while measuring?

I have the service manual, but it's the electronic version and it's not clear enough to note all the voltages on the socket. These are the ones I can read okay, but the 13 and 4 are blurry:

Pin:

2- 143V
11 - 142V
6 - 142V
7 - 36.4V
12 - 36.4V
3 - 36.4V
5 - 540V
13 - 640V
4 - 540V
9 - 3.5kV

If those voltages are correct, I can do all but the last 4 as my meter only goes as high as 500V. Oh, and are those AC or DC volts?

Without going into much detail.........
I always pulled the IF jack when doing a grey scale if it was easy.
This gives a totaly dead raster or line.
Pin 9 is focus so not to worry for now. Pins 5-6-13 are G-2 and
may concern you. Measure at the chassis unless you have a test socket.
The only thing in the socket is spark gaps & 1 K resistors.
they do go bad but usually the focus pin from too much focus voltage
or constant high humditity.....
I highly recomend a rebuilt Fluke meter
off e-by. Got them for both sons & do more then the cheapo
meters. Also can drop them, hit people with it etc & will keep
running. Just be sure it goes to 1 KV DC. They run abt $75
but will last your life. Beond 1 KV you need an HV probe..........

73 Zeno:smoke: