[QUOTE=walterbeers;3134977]Well, some good news, (well sort of anyway), I removed the horizontal output tube and brought the AC voltage slowly up to 75 volts, and I got noise from the speaker, and had about 250 volts at the top cap connector for the 6CB5. So I hooked up a converter box to the antenna terminals, went to channel 4, and I did have sound. The selenium rectifiers are still in circuit, and one of the fuses had been bypassed with a clip on fuse, which was actually broken. So, for now I just clipped in a 3 amp pigtail temporally. Just getting sound raised my enthusiasm. I did find out that the fine tuning knob is broken, so if someone has one that would work as a replacement let me know. I'm not going to do any more with it today, as I have other stuff to do, and I'm getting really tired. Been up since 5AM, my usual wake up time. A 3A3 won't work, the 3B2 is a small 9 pin tube with a top cap.[/QUOTE

You are thinking of the 3A2...and it IS a 9 pin tube. No sub that I know of for it. The 3B2 is a large octal tube.

Yes, It uses a 3A2. My bad. Yes, It is a 9 pin tube, not an octal. I don't know what happened. I must have transposed the number either in my mind or on the keyboard. Looks similar to a 1X2, but has a 3 volt filament. I will also check for shorted the high voltage caps.

progress, light and video on the screen
 

Well, I put in a 1V2 in temporarily for the 3A2 and I"m getting high voltage although low, I do have some light and video on the screen although not really a picture. Sound is there, everything needs cleaned, recapped and check out, but preliminary testing shows that the CRT is usable and it thrills me that the main stages, flyback, yoke, HV, and sound, IF, tuner, etc at least are somewhat working. I know a 1V2 will not last in place of a 3A2 but this was for maybe 5 minutes just to find out what works and what doesn't. Obvious it needs filter caps, and vertical isn't full. What I really need is connectors that I can put the cabinet on the bench with the chassis removed, so I can work on the chassis, leaving the CRT in the cabinet. As of right now, I prefer not to take the CRT out of the cabinet, I feel it's just too risky with that old of a set, since the CRT appears good, and usable. I will be ordering several 3A2s, and probably other tubes as well as I test them out.

If you lay the set on its side (make sure the chassis is bolted down) you can get to a good deal of the underside of the chassis. Long cables might cause odd problems, but then again maybe it would be ok.

Dave

I wouldn't expect problems with temporary extension cables. Just be slow and careful.

Does anyone know of extension cables for the set, that is a yoke connector (Octal), convergence connector (A 9 pin, looks like an octal), and a CRT connector (for the base of the tube). I'm sure I could rig up some high voltage wire for the anode though. Or was, or is there any type of test jigs that were made that would work with the set? Or, is it best to lay the set on it's side and remove the bottom metal plate? How has other restorers of CTC2s, 21CT55s, done it. There is a fellow on here that has a CRT test jig he want to sell, but I doubt it was made to work with a set this old. Even with all the adapter cables, I doubt if there is a way to connect up the convergence unit. I guess right now, I'm thinking of lying it on it's side, when I get a couple of strong guys over here to help with it.

Some who have worked on later roundys with extender cables have had phantom video ringing and ghosting caused by the extender cables....It is not guaranteed to happen, but something to be weary of.

We used to have this problem with all extender cables. Making them shorter helps. One factory item on my RCA CTC11 set is a cardboard disc that keeps the three G1wires to the CRT socket separated.

Many Congratulations Walter - you just grabbed the headlines:thmbsp:

The size, and wavy sides indicate bad power supply capacitors, you should not
run it again until you replace the electrolytics in the power supply at minimum....

.

I came across a set of the extender cables and I use them all them time. They are great for testing purposes but nothing more as they introduce interference. No settings can be done until the crt is back in the cabinet but like I said they work great for rough testing, making sure there is a raster, approx. width and height and such.
The ones I have are 4 feet long and they came with a test crt I bought on ebay. There's one for the crt, two for the yoke, one with that octal plug and the other has alligator clips, and an extender for the high voltage lead.

Gregb

My Sylvania CK3000 test jig (which also works with the RCA jig adapter cables) was only made to work with CTC-7 and later chassis, but I made a (yoke) adapter cable that works with the CTC-5, CTC-4, and CTC-2/CT-100. If I remember right, I also checked the schematics and it should work with a CTC-2B/21-CT-55 as well. There is one wire that gets either connected or disconnected among those different chassis.

The way the jig works on later chassis is, you plug in a "convergence load" to the chassis, that replaces the now-disconnected convergence control panel. However, on the CTC-5 and older models, only the convergence yoke is disconnected with the cable is unplugged from the chassis; the controls themselves are still attached, so no replacement "load" is needed when using the jig. (So, in this case, the CTC-3 chassis would still need to be connected to the CTC-2B chassis, but not the convergence yoke itself.)

If you do get that jig and you want the adapter information I have, let me know and I can probably copy it and post it here.

That looks like a low voltage power supply problem.

Where can I find a set of extender cables?
 

Gregb: where did you ever come across the set of extender cables? Are they available in Canada, since I can't seem to find them on the web. Can one buy them, or find them on e-bay? I understand I can't set up the adjustments until it's back in the cabinet, but it would make for good rough testing as I recap and do repairs to the set. It would make it much easier for me (since I have back problems), instead of getting down on the floor to work on the set, as that is really hard for me. I'll first will tackle the power supply, electrolytic's, etc. The small raster (if you can call it that), indicates definitely that it needs new caps in the power supply and will also be replacing the selenium rectifiers with diodes. I don't intend to run it much more (probably not at all), until at least the power supply is taken care of.

I have a couple extra female sockets off a test jig that you're welcome to have if you can adapt them. They have different plug ends on them, but if you had the cap off a 21" color tube you could use them and make one easily.

The sockets would help me out!
 

I'll send you info in your VK mail box.