Right, I was proprably reffering to early CC2 chassis. Those had I think 4 of them?

Anyway, glad mine already got the orange one.

Found this thread about the matching numbers for my tripler : http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=248180

So any of those replacement tripler would do?

Thanks!

"Safety" cap is under hoz out heat sink. Its a G-line set so you are OK.
History ( IIRC )
C line flat chassis 2 safety caps 22-5001
D & E line flat chassis 5 caps 22-5001
E line upright runs under 401 5 caps
E- line upright runs 401 & higher one big 4 lead cap
from E line on they all use one cap. Any white safety caps
in any of these chassii should be changed to the newer orange drop
style. Be sure to use the right one as there are several different ones.

73 Zeno:smoke:

Morning everyone,

In my search for a replacement sound module for the 9-103-04 in the CCII, I have come across a 9-103-04A. Could anyone tell me if this board is a known replacement for the 9-103-04? Findm? ;)

Thanks!

Dont know why the A is there but use it. They always change the number
if different. The A may be a minor revision.

73 Zeno:smoke:

Alright, I pluged the module exactly like the the 9-103-04, it worked , but it did not solved the problem.

I found this thread by DHR4683 : http://videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=265234

That last gasp CCII has the 9-103-04A board (the A is listed has a replacement part for the 9-103-04 in the schematics glued on in inside of the cabinet!), but what I find strange is that the board in this one is not wired the same as mine...shouldn't those board be wired exacly the same in order to work? Maybe mine was tempered with?

Edit : I really have the impression that the volume slider is the problem...could those wear so bad that cleaning could not work?

Thanks!

Sometimes wiring changes were made...It it takes the same power and signals in and spits the correct signals out, that is all the TV cares about.

Slider pots tend to be MUCH less reliable than rotational ones IMO. If you know the pot's resistance try subbing a rotating type and see if that helps.

Thinking back over CC2's there were several plug ins. They
are marked by white paper or plastic tabs on the chassis contacts.

Speakers ( 2 brown)

A cap that just killed the bass on small speaker models.
( 17 & 19" & maybe low end 23 & 25" )

Volume control (not all). The VC changed a DC level to the IC
NOT the usual coupling cap-VC-coupling cap.

Mute between channels. (? blue-white ?) also raster mute
went to the 9-88-# on these IIRC.

Sliders can get very bad. Try cleaning with WD40.
Unhook everything but SPKR & VC to narrow down.

GL
73 Zeno

I've unhook the "tone"pot from the sound module and the low rumbling and tin can sound is still there, so its not the "tone" pot. Unhooking the VC...well I get no sound (of course).

I tried with another speaker...bad sound still there.

I will get some wd40, but I juiced that sliding pot pretty good with my go to cleaner and it didn't do a thing. Will try the WD40 anyway,

That cap that killed low frequency sure does sound good because its how I would describe the sound : high frequency are there but anything that is in the low spectrum is kind of garbles and muted... I imagine that cap is on the sound module? And if it is, could it be a high enough failure part that both my sound module could be bad?

I think, this might be a good idea, but I have no idea of the sliding pot resistance, can't see anything on the part itself. would anyone have this information on hand? I guess I could short the pot a few seconds just to see...

Thanks!

Just looked at the photo. Looks like this has wires for
the VC & probably audio mute between channels or tone.
Does it have a tone control ? Anyhows on the IF strip
it shows where some of the wires go, check the layout
chart also & be sure every things where it belongs.
Looks like it has an oval SPKR so no bass cut cap.

I will see if I got the manual but my squaw is on vacation &
I just bought her a new car so she wants to go places, not
fix TV's !!! I will get to it though........

BTW Analog meters are best for some tests & alignments.
If you got one unhook the VC & see if it gives smooth ops
across its range. The value should be printed on it. Zenith
used heavy US made sliders but they still sucked like
all others compaired to regular pots.

73 Zeno:smoke:

Seems there were many revisions. I have another whose box is marked 9-103-04-R. The "R" does not appear on the module.

Both came from that bargain basement stash you pointed out a while back.

Rather than replace the module, do you have a Sam's for the set that might give you DC voltages around the audio IC in your pic?

Are there separate discrete transistors for audio IF, or are all functions built into that IC?

Another thought is look up that IC by number online, which should give clues as to the expected voltages and waveforms around that IC. If a DC voltage is off, either a resistor drifting high, or a leaking /shorted cap might be the culprit.

Is the IC getting hot?

Also, check the inputs to the module. The problem may not be the sound module at all. I'm thinking there will be sound "takeoff" point coming from the video IF, but I am generalizing and not as familiar as others with 70s SS sets.

There are not that many parts on the audio module. Can you check for ESR on the electros, as well as resistor values?

Your cleaner spraying of the volume pot should have changed the sound (even if only slightly) if it were the problem. Still, they are very problematic...

Good luck! 😀

Well I interchanged the sound module with the one JonA sent me and it has produce no change whatsoever. So I GUESS it has to be the volume sliding pot. Will take it a look at it before doing anything else.

Well finally got around to spray that thing with WD40. Didn't work. I also checked if it was giving smooth operation all the way with my multimeter (unfortunately I only got an el cheapo digital one). Pot SEEMS to give smooth operation but I am unsure.

I read 0 - 75k ohms on that pot, Zeno does that sound about right to you?

If so, will try to substitute with a rotary one just to see.

Thanks!

75K probably OK but seems like a high value 2 me.
Try hanging a different speaker on it also, could
be the voice coil is stuck. Unplug the in set SPKR for test,
use almost any SPKR for the test.........

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !