check it out

Its blury but you can still see my point. It is reversed. Should I switch these tubes around?

The other schematic showing how my tubes were installed is on page 4 of this forum.

Picture 2 in post 16 shows a big hole in place of the tuner in the upper left corner
of the chassis, because the tuner is mounted on the front panel in your particular
set. The 5AT8 is the tube that goes nearest the tuning knob. So I assume there
is some kind of discrepancy between the rear cover and the actual layout. Tell
me if this sounds OK.

All the tubes use the same heating current (600 mA), so reversing them is
unlikely to have caused damage.

Yes you are dead on. Its mounted near the front with all the knobs. And it was in correct. I tried switching them and no sound. So I guess that solves that.

Oh and after letting it warm up in the dark there was one tube with a blue cloud. But it went away(very bottom right) And I smelt something burning. Not burning insanley. But I can smell it. And I noticed a resistor that has black goo near the leads that come out of it.(This was near where I thought the smell was) Its bands were green blue brown. And it has 650 ohms of resistance instead of 560.

I will turn it on and smell some more...

The smell is definatley coming from the middle. And this resistor is almost the only thing there. It is hooked up between the two large upper capacitors.
I also tried a trick some one mentioned at the beggining of this forum. A fluorescent bulb near the ht line that goes to the side of the CRT. The bulb did not glow :(

I should have thought about it, if you had sound, the tuner could not have the
tubes installed wrong!

By all means try to identify this resistor: to what tube pins or other points is it connected?

P.S.: there's much more fun in troubleshooting than in demolishing, don't you think?

Ha ha ha yes. This is definatley more fun that putting another pile of junk aside for me to use in the future. I can hardly sleep trying to figure this thing out.
In other words. "I just can't get enough, just can't....."


and more specifically the resistor goes from 30 mfd to the 200mfd. These are the larger ones at the top.

Hello again,

Regarding this 560-ohm resistor, could that be R-451, connected to L-400,
at the right of V-15? If C-443 (an electrolytic) is leaking, it may cause
the resistor to heat up.

How many hours has it been since I told you I was quitting for the day?
Good night!

So it is R-451, but the parts on the schematic are far apart:

The 30 mfd is C-443 as I told you.

The 200 mfd is C-502, the upper capacitor at the output of the filter choke
in the power supply. You can follow the long wire marked 264 V running at the
bottom of the schematic.

Tooo many. hahaha I am quiting to. And I will have something to say tomorrow. I think about this stuff in my sleep.

More tomorrow folks!

hehehe a tech pow wow... love it :D

Steve

So I was trying to look up if the crt could be dead. And have no glow, picture or anything. I never found my answer, but saw some stuff on LCD repair. And I remembered a 5 inch LCD I bought in gr. 7-8. Of coarse though it stopped working. Much too soon of coarse(maybe in a year or two). And it cost 200$. I tried my best to asses the problem at the time. Blown backlight dead something else expensive(and probably non existent for that lcd).
It was a bummer. I begged my parents for it. And they spent that 200$ for me. And then one day it just didn't work.....:(
(I didn't even own a ps1)

Well today I was still in the fixin mood. So with all my new knowledge since gr 8 I went to tackle it again. This time I did not assume it was broken. I assumed something simple had blown like a diode that blows when you hook up polarities backwards. Nope all diodes good though.(This is also all surface mount stuff...way waaaay smaller than tubes smaller than these letters you are reading) And then I saw it. Something not called R-37 or C-12 or T-1 (Resistor Cap and Transformer) THERE WAS AN F-1, A FUUUSE!!! I shorted it out with some metal and it came back to life.And I almost s@!T my pants.

So the moral of the story is. Don't throw stuff away you think is done for. You might just figure it out with all your new tricks and knowledge.... 5 years later....

AND I FIXED IT BOOYAH!
made me feel good

now back to 60's technology

I found a perfect (Wire wound I think) 560 ohm 2 watt resistor. This is pure luck. But I'm gonna put it in there tomorrow.
And also I need reassurance that the picture tube is not dead. Even with all the progress so far a dot will not even show up on the screen....?

New Day,

Also I thought for sure I had H.V.. But after putting a fluorescent bulb near the H.V. And trying to discharge it twice and hearing no spark as I did it. I'm guessing the HV is gone. I checked all the resistances ElectroKing had mentioned they check out fine. So the problem does not lie there.

I'm going to replace all the film caps near the HV area and also that one 560 ohm resistor AND then check that the 1ax2b is properly connected to its socket. AAAANNND does anyone think a dirty faulty button connection (The little cap that connects to the top of the tubes) could be causing such a problem.

And the results of that were:

The 560 ohm resistor IS burning up. Something drawing current from that resistor is either underbiased or just not working right. But from the schematic I see it is hooked up to the plate of the vert d/f tube and this tube is not biased in any way, its cathode is just grounded. Any ideas?

HA! HA! HA! more news: The vert deflection tube is the same one I saw glowing blue yesterday night. In the bottom right. If that helps any

OK I AM thoroughly CONFUSED. LIke a monkey in space.
I was looking over the the wiring of this tv. And it isn't an exact match to the schem. OR this TV is wired up very wrong. I just don't know.


According to the schematic the damper tubes pin 5 should be hooked up to the power supply.(Point 1 for 60hz operation) Instead in the TV pin 5 is directly connected to pin 1 of the horiz output tube.

PIn 6 of the damper tube is also directly connected to the 60hz line right from the wall. It then goes (via 25 ohm sand resistor) to pins 7 and 6 of the horiz output tube.

And pin 3 of the damper goes to Lead 5 of the HV rect flyback transformer thing.(In the box) Pin 8 of the damper goes to 3cb6. And pin 7 of the damper goes right to pin 2 of the horiz output.

What confuses me here is that the horiz output should be connected to the high voltage Through a 8 k resistor then an adjustable one (Those resistors are there) But it goes from pin 5 of the damper instead of the Power supply Or 256 volt line.
And pin 5 of the damper should be hooked up to point 1 on the power supply(Which it isn't)
I AM STUMPED. STUMPED I TELL YOU

If you would like I will take detailed pictures then edit them on paint to show you what I mean. And point things out

P.S. The voltage on v15's plate should be 220v and it is much less than that. I am trying to give out as much info as I can here

P.P.S. No it is wired right I am just stupid. THe wire was hidden behind a large paer cap.The 256v goes to the 8 K resistor. Then it also goes up to the damper tube(pin 5)

UMMMMMMMM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I think theres picture folks


I turned it on.....My plan was to test for 256 volts. And just before I did I turned all the adjustment knobs to center. Turned it on and it started making some noises that scared me. And then flash! I turned it off so fast. You can't even measure that amount of time(Just kidding, but it was quick) This scared me. ALOT

But this flash. I do this think it was the screen. So I tried again and it flashed again. But by this time I was shaking so off it went again.

I THINK ITS WORKING!

OK so i tried it again this time with intent of leaving it on and nothing. No flash no nothing. Back to dead. This is bothering me


The width control. This resistor is not functioning properly I think.
With my ohm meter hooked up to it set on 2000k I can get it to read zero And i can get it to read Nothing its either zero up to 12k Then It says there is no connection.And this happens within 1/8 of a turn. After turning the TV off I actually got some picture to show up. I wouldn't call it picture though it was just light.

My question now is. Would this variable resistor screw the whole thing up. Cause it kinda seems like it did.(it is the width control one hooked up to horiz output tube.)

SO will it need cleaning or will I need a whole new one.And if I do need a new one, ElectroKing you will have to tell me what it is I cannot make it out from the schematic.
Thanx
Rudy

Hello again,

Sorry, I'm very busy with work today and tomorrow Friday, then I must go away
over the weekend. The fact that you got 'something' on the screen (even in a
transient fashion) means there was high voltage at some point. You're on the
right track as long as you are studying the schematic carefully and noting the
(hopefully small) differences with respect to actual circuit construction.

You can possibly clean the variable resistor with a proper cleaner fluid designed
for the purpose. If there is a hi-fi or electronics store in your area, they might
be able to provide the right stuff.

I will take the time to study your latest posts further when I get back on Sunday
night. Don't lose too much sleep, keep up the careful approach and you will
make progress. Bye for now!

P.S.: pin 1 of H. output tube is unconnected, it is just used as a tie point.

Alright well enjoy your weekend I will to. And I'll sleep :thmbsp:

Yea I'll clean The pots out tomorrow Or something like that. More fiddling
And hopefully she comes to life. And it sounds like theres a really bad gas leak when I turn it on. And interesting is that the picture mainly flashes when I power it down. Or maybe I'm just not giving it long enough.

Oh hell yeah the width control could kill the picture. It's controlling the voltage at the horz output tube's screen grid. Without a good voltage supply there, you won't get much sweep, and won't get high voltage. And it's a 1 watt pot because it's drawing good current. If the cap after it is leaky or shorted, you'd get issues too.

As a temporary check, get a 1 watter about 1/2 the value of the pot, and jump it in place. The schematic suggests about 150 volts there, but it could be a bit more or less - it's really not a critical value.

The blue cloud tube, I'm gonna bet was the vertical output tube (12B4), and that's 560 resistor burnt up because you've got a short in there or it's gassy, or here's bad things in veritcal land. Here's a better idea than waste the resistor or toast a transformer or coil: Leave it disconnected for now - you'll have a disabled vertical section, but that's ok. Just keep the brightness down so you don't burn a line on the CRT. Concentrate on the horizontal section - it needs to work right first to make vertical work too (the vertical get's a boost from the flyback!).

The horizontal will come up weakly, but once it gets boost built up, it'll 'kick in' rather quickly and you should have high voltage along with it. That's when things get interesting :)

Well I don't know the value of this pot as of yet. Maybe it says it on the back. But I cannot get it from the schematic.

And the Hv does work when this Variable resistor is set to have some resistance.(And I am observing the voltage this resistor is dropping with my voltmeter. To make sure its not the full 280v like it was before, it's usually 20-40 volts)

And another question is how gassy should this TV be sounding when the HV is working. Cause I am usually overcome with fear when I hear this tv fully power up. Sounds like a cap is about to blow up in my face...or something. But it's definatley a gas leak sound.

And heres the real kicker. The tv warms up makes gassy noises. But no picture shows up. So I get scared after about 10 seconds of listening to the gassy sounds and shut it off.

This is when the tube finally shows some life. A large sweeping square shows up.
I got one good look at it.
It was a large square that took up the whole screen at first. And then shrunk rather uniformley, in the shape of a square. And this gives me hope. Cause that would mean that the horiz and vert are working...correct?

BUT WHY does it only work when I turn it off? Could I just need to hook up the antenna or something like this? No signal to make picture?

First I will check all the pots see If I can get them working. If not I have some kicking around but I'm not sure how much current they can handle.
They are larger than the ones in there, but that could easily mean nothing.
And earlier today I changed all the caps near that area. Cause I obviously had no HV.

More news tomorrow and all the help is appreciated guys:thmbsp:

A slight terminology issue: "gassy" refers to there being gas inside a vacuum tube. (where there is supposed to be, well, vacuum!) So that vertical tube might be bad. They sometimes glow funny when that happens. Could also be caused by something like a bad cap in the circuit, which is almost guaranteed in a set this age.

The sound you hear like a gas leak is almost certainly arcing (corona) somewhere in the HV line. It will be somewhere between the flyback and the HV connection of the picture tube. Could just be poor insulation or something too close to ground. One way that can work to find it...and this could take some bravery! (don't worry, it won't reach out and grab you from a yard away!) You need to turn the tv on in a dark room and then look at the chassis while it is making that sound. You likely will see where the problem is-a constant blue spark is common. If you find it, turn the set off and try to figure it out from there. Good luck!

The pot for the width control. I've been staring at that schematic crosseyed and with glasses and from across the room. And I think it says 15k does it not?


As for the gassy tube I tested it and it tests ok and with no shorts. Does that mean it's alright...ish?

And your dark room idea sounds like a very good idea. I did start it up last night in the middle of the night. (I have been working on this TV outside, it had alot of weird dust) And I didn't notice any arcing but I wasn't exactly looking for it either. That will be done tonight.
And from what I can see the HV line comes out of the box then right back to the side of the picture tube. It doesnt seem to get very close to ground but I will insulate and move it further.(Would electrical tape help?) The hv line also looks like some one burnt it with a soldering iron. Like a dip in the insulation, I'm sure you know what I am talking about. AT this same point the wire is tied in a large granny knot. It is not tight but rather loose. I thought this might be because the cord was just a bit too long.

Any suggestions??

Rudy

Alright I have a 5k pot that looks like it can handle the current.
But I also have a 20k that is fairly small but looks like it might be able to hack it.(doesn't look cheap)
The 20k is 1.5 cm in diameter and 8mm wide. Anyone think it wouldn't burn up?

The 5k is 2.5 cm by 1.2 cm So I know it will handle it but its only 5 k. Not 15K(which is what I think it should be)


And I didn't post this message when I wrote it so the 5 k is already in there for testing purposes. But if some one thinks the 20 k one will work I will switch it.

We have horizontal folks. The tv with the new pot is showing a line that goes down the middle of the screen. Horizontally. The gassy sound has gone away. Maybe due to the new pot or electrical tape I wrapped around the HV line. And still when I turn it off it goes over the whole screen Then disapeers. I'm not sure if it is doing the square thing anymore though. It sorta seems like it But It's to bright outside to really tell. I HOPE TO GOD I DID NOT FRY SOMETHING.

Any one have a guess as to why the vertical would kick in just as you turn it off?

Also the 560 ohm resistor appears to no longer heat up. And checks in at 530 ohms. Amd from the resistor all the way to the vertical ouptut tube there is 1240 something ohms of resistance.

Reminds me of an old space sci-fi movie, where at the last minute, they substitute a crew of humans in place of apes on some space mission. But they didn't have time to modify the banana dispensers...

Anyway

If you can't find a good high wattage pot, you could just use fixed power resistors of the same value once you identify what the setting of the pot needs to be. You can also parallel higher value resistors to fine tune downwards the resistance. But don't hand poke around with a resistor in your fingers, the horiz circuits can "bite you in the ass...". Turn the set off and tack solder it in, to try it.

If you need to replace the very high voltage cable feeding the side of the CRT, you could obtain such from a junked computer CRT monitor. Those are even better in that they come with a rubber suction cup like cover, to protect you from the high voltage at the picture tube.

Junked computer monitors eh?:scratch2:


I went to look at it again before I went for a smoke to celebrate my good progress and it seems like the whole screen is being sweeped. It is still much to bright out to really tell but thats what it looked like to me!
Can't wait till dusk!


Roughly how long should it take for this tv to warm up?

The screen is on:banana:

But still showing no picture. And its not really fuzz either. More grey than anything. Does it need to have an antenna connected. Or something in order to get picture. Or do I have more work to do?

ALso I am pretty lucky after warm up voltage at the horiz output tube is 150 -158 as stated by the schematic. So hopefully that works till I figure this whole. No picture thing out.


Could this possibly be a problem with worn or dead tubes??


Woooaaah. Just did another test watching from the back The tube in the bottom right v15 turned blue. But then went back to being fine. Should I worry about this? and would a gassy tube still check in fine on a tester?

I'd be looking to replace that vertical tube, frankly.

At this point, you'll want to replace ALL the paper/wax capacitors, and I bet you'll see a decent raster.

Take some time, clean that HV box and around the CRT on the back by the 'suction cup' for high voltage. Get those leakage paths out of there.

I'd be looking at CRT voltages at the socket, see if they match the normal ones for that tube type.

Getting a raster means you've got working sweep, working HV, and a good CRT. You should clean up the horizontal and vertical circuits - get the caps replaced, check the resistors out, make sure it's behaving right. Then get that IF section and tuner going. Don't touch ANY adjustments for the IF or tuner stages (beyond the 'fine tuning' available on the channel knob).

Get an isolation transformer, and look at getting a variac, too, maybe. Old TV sets have a way of finding you once you revive one :)

Antenna - the better, the better.

Sweep is what TVs are all about - get it working right first, and everything else falls into place.

I forgot all about the fine tuning, I'll try it out tomorrow.

And here's what the tv can do at this point. For everyone that doesn't wanna read 7 pages of this.

The tubes all warm up. V15 the vert. output tends to glow blue slightly then go away(It also does not get overly hot).
The audio output tube also arcs inside sometimes during warm up.
The audio works. I can get voices and commercials and what not.
The crt lights up and gives me a big'ol grey screen. Switching channels to a tuned one "will" change the way the screen acts. Sometimes getting darker or brighter.
There is no fuzz/snow like a normal TV. Just grey. With very slight static. No snow.

Also (this worries me) when it turned on originally the upper half of the screen was full of "grey" lets call it.(Light) The lower half was "half filled" with "grey" then there was a solid white line, Then black till the bottom. Adjusting the vert height got it to fill the screen. But my concern is that, the bottom deflection yoke(I don't know terminology too well) is burnt or something. Causing the bottom half to not fully spread downwards, wild the top half is already off the screen.
Is this making sense to some one? And is this even possible.

And I did check the voltages at the CRT. The brightness voltage was off. Should have been 130v but it only got up to 70. But this was when picture was not working. The tv's brightness can make it go white at this point. So I think it works.

One more question is what does vertical linearity do for the picture? It's an adjustment located at the back.

P.S. Schematic on page 4 and pictures tomorrow showing what I get

The "gassy" sound you were hearing was likely high voltage arcing and leakage. It is a "hsssssss" that may sound like gas leaking from a crack in a pipe or cylinder. If the HV leakage is severe enough it will keep any image from forming on the screen at all. As the leakage diminishes then whatever image can show will show on the screen. Perhaps the warming of the set has driven out the moisture that enabled such discharge to occur.

As for the gray raster with no snow you may want to examine the sound output tube--believe it or not. A lot of these old sets used the sound output tube as a series voltage regulator, where all the picture IF stages and the tuner would feed off a 130 volt supply right off the cathode of the sound output tube. If the tube is flashing over then it is possible that it is weak or altogether bad, or that the electrolytic capacitor on the 130 volt line is shorted or severely leaky. Either way the result is that there is low or no 130 B+ supply to the tuner or the picture IF stages. Sometimes with this problem one can turn the volume control way down, and then turn it up rapidly, and the raster will suddenly brighten and produce snow for a brief moment. The output tube can be weak enough to supply insufficient B+, but still have enough life to produce sound.

(Edit) Reading your last posting where you get sound but no picture at all leads me to want to re-examine the video amp stages.

The vertical output tube needs to be replaced. the blue glow indicates a gassy tube (air has gotten inside the vacuum.) If you're hearing sound but only seeing gray, there is a problem in the video amplifier section. Could be a tube, but more likely some bad capacitors. If you haven't replaced the paper coupling caps in this set you can't really judge its operation condition or really begin to troubleshoot until you do.

The vertical linearity interacts with the vertical height adjustment to make the picture vertically symmetrical and not too stretched or compressed at the top or bottom.

Alright well I have the tubes I need.(Courtesy an AK member, Thank you very much)

So I can switch them out, I am just concerned that I may destroy the new tubes I put in. Roughly how much bad operation can a tube handle. Will they be destroyed within minutes. Or should I not worry.

And yes I was getting arcing. From the top of the HV coil. I mentioned it was chipped there before. Last night I finally saw it jump from that point to the frame.
Here was my simple solution to add insulation. Hot glue gun. Its rubber, rubber insulates and it's fast and easy. Maybe some one else will find that trick handy.

Rudy

THe hot glue gun is ok, but most will use a silicone RTV designed to work around HV. They usually stops the problem in the short term. Make sure the HV cage around the coil is clean and without dust. Dusty cages will cause corona discharge and arcing.

If the tube is glowing blue - its usually the fault of the tube and not the support components. However, arching inside tubes can be either the tube or the supporting components. You're gotten this far, I would really consider replacing the capacitors in the set. They are not expensive and it will mean that in the long run the set can be operated in a reliable state.

The dust I have cleaned off with a toothbrush :) The cage I washed. It's spotless.

I've put new tubes in where needed. And am going to test it out. If I see blue or arcing the caps will be changed. I changed all the electrolytic already. But some are axial not radial.
The coupling caps looked like inductors to me. It wasn't untill after I made my cap order I realized they were coupling capacitors. They are radial type. Not electrolytic. They look good but....yea your right They probably need to go.
There's also a black beauty near v15. I suspect he MUST go. But I can't figure out its value. It only has three lines on it. Starting from the end with a blob of solder It's blue orange brown. And very faintly they're may be two more brown lines on each side of the orange band. Any one know what value this may be. Cause I don't think its coincidence that the tube that glows blue has the only bumble bee cap in the whole circuit right next to it.

And here in Winnipeg caps aren't cheap!! I went to a place some one told me it was cheap to buy from. It was $17 for one electrolytic rated at 450 volts and low mfd.
Another place offered me electrolytics for around $8 a cap. I had to order mine online in order to get my money's worth.

Definatley works better. There is no blue. There is no arcing in the audio output tube. And you can actually hear stuff better. But still there's no picture. :no:
I guess it's time to get some more caps. Bummer

And cathode of the audio output is at 144 volts according to my meter. 12 volts too high. Any suggestions on how to get this down? Or no worries?

12 volts isn't gonna make a huge difference, or at least shouldn't - measure the cathode/grid voltage and see what it is. But if you get decent sound, I'd not worry.

Trace out the BB's wires and see where they go - you can use that to figure out where in the circuit it is.

As long as you're getting a raster on the CRT, you've got the basics and it's just capacitor replacement and checking things out. Don't worry that you're not getting a picture - it's in there you jusdt need to find where it's getting lost.

Seriously, at this point, you're gonna need an oscilloscope (and an isolation tranny to keep from blowing up a scope). With a 'scope, tracing out these issues is really easy and fast - you SEE what stage the video gets lost at, or what the vertical signal looks like, etc. A used one shouldn't be too much, and it pays for itself fast.

You've got a TV set that's got the basics working, it just needs some cap replacement and some targeted diagnostics. But unless something's grossly wrong (and there shouldn't be at this point), you'll get a picture if you just keep at it.

Anyone have a spare oscilloscope...?

Ha ha. Yea I've always wanted one but brand new they are not cheap. Used though could prove to be very cheap and useful. And an isolation transformer would just be 120 ac to 120 ac correct? Just stops it from getting a full 15 amps if it shorts out right?


And I looked on fleabay. Would something like this be good enough
http://cgi.ebay.ca/Oscilloscope-B-K-...QQcmdZViewItem

I have 40$ for anyone who has one maybe more...

No, an isolation transformer gives you isolation from the power line, which prevents the chassis from being 'hot'. It serves a very important safety function when servicing series string TV sets, especially when you have test equipment involved.

For a scope, look for an ability to go up to 10 Mhz or higher, calibrated timebases and voltage scales, and a 10V per div input range.

pictures
 

Is the way the bottom of the screen is black normal to an extent?

Or could a coil be fried. I checked the orange and green wire coming from the bottom of the crt. (I figured they were responsible for the bottom vertical half of the sweep) Ans it had 700 ohms which I think is right.

Some sort of the other adjustment maybe. Yoke or something.

This picture was taken tuned to a working channel.

The bumble bee was hooked up to pin 9 of v15. The only one hooked up to pin 9 was one that said . 0547. Seems like an odd value to me. Also the .15 and .1 caps to the right of v15. How important are these two caps. Will they make a large impact.

And is there any way to test a cap just with a voltmeter? Doubt it but I figured if anyone knows it's one of you.

The condition you see is called fold-over. The bottom part of the vertical scan has folded over on itself causing the black bottom and bright band. Its usually caused by leaky or shorted capacitors, occasionally a resistor that has gone up in value. Look in both the vertical oscillator and output section.

You would have to pull out the cap to test it on an ohm meter. You would also need an ohm meter that put out a high enough current to test the cap for leakage. Since you have to pull it - just replace it.

Trust me on this. Replace the coupling caps in this set and most if not all of your troubles will disappear. I wouldn't even bother to waste your time further. The set basically works - so why not just restore the chassis completely? I don't understand why you might want to have to keep servicing it in the future when another problem pops up from leaving original parts in. :dunno:

Ok, you've got poor vertical linerarity. No surprise there. I wouldn't be looking at the yoke, yet. That'd be far down on my list.

Rather:

* Go through the vertical section. Replace ALL paper caps, and check resistors. Make sure the voltages into the Vert board are right (+- 10% or so).

* The black bar at the bottom? Centering :) That's what those centering rings on the yoke do.

* Don't finger the yoke, it's not likely to be bad if it's not open ad the resistance is close to the listed value.

You've got pretty good horizontal and HV and the CRT looks decent.

That bumble bee is a .0047 If it's leaky, it could mess up your vertical pretty badly. The .15 could be a problem, too. The .1's not as critical, but replace it anyway.

The .047 and other caps on the vertical board should be replaced, too.

With these caps replaced, try adjusting the height and lineararity controls to see if you can get thee raster looking right. They interact with each other. Height controls the height, and linerarity controls how evenly it sweeps. In your case, it's going real fast at the top of the screen, and slowing as it gets to the bottom. When everything's right, it'll adjust to be a smooth sweep all across the screen, and the picture will look right.

Once you get all that working good, you can attack the picture issue. Remember, the sweep sections of a TV set use the most power, and if they're not working correctly, everything else is moot.

You said you were getting sound. How strong is it? Is it staticy, or does it 'pop' a lot? With this set, a good strong sound from a TV channel should give you picture, too, unless something's messed up in the video amp's output wiring.

Well yea that's why I'm confused. The sound is very strong with the new tube in. I have a very inefficient speaker hooked up to. But the picture just isn't there. I've tried adjusting things till the screen is completely covered then adjusting everything else to get it still. You can not get it still. But the screen can be covered. And can look Grey. But with a channel its all over the place. And you can't see any distinct picture at all. Until you've stared for to long and start imagining.

The sound is not perfectly clear, I guess. But it is descent.

And I have that .15 to put in. So that's good.

And I am curious. The height control. IS(?) it supposed to be 2meg on one side and 6 meg on the other. Because this pot does not check in equally on both sides. Its over 2 megs on one side so my meter says its not connected. Maybe this my problem I already had one bad pot, That caused no HV.

I also found a 22k resistor that goes to the cathode of the 3au6 v12 that only checks in at 15k! And I should have 22000 ohm res.
And I have a 22k resistor. But it's a newer type. The bage very very light brown ones. About a cm long. Can it handle a watt?
Also found a wax covered mica. Real skinny and flat. It shows 00 resistance. So I will start with that and the BB. Also the resistor if it can handle the current.

And any one have a say about that vary pot?

The area you may need to look at more carefully is the video amp stage. Is there a video signal at the output (plate) of that tube....? If so then trace along the network between there and where the signal reaches the cathode of the picture tube. Possible culprits would be any defective component in the network of peaking coils, capacitors, resistors and whatever.

Also--heaven forbid--is the possibility of a heater-to-cathode short in the picture tube itself. Although in a series-wired set this would likely lead to a raster full of horizontal hum bars....

What would horizontal hum bars look like?

That bumble bee cap must have been a replacement or something.(Its the only one in the whole set) It says it is rated at 60000pf If I did it right. (From the point with solder,Blue, black, orange, black, brown) This would be .06mfd.
Which makes me ask again. Is the cap just above v-15(12b4a). Rated at .0547(or is that unheard of) or .0047 as previously stated. I will trust your judgement over mine. And I cut it out already. So I need to get a new one.

So I went to Radio Shack and did not find anything useful. HAhahaha...Figures. But I found one descent thing there. A new voltmeter. This one can test hz and capacitances. Paid 44$ and I'll be able to right it off as a work expense when I start work as an electrician. So score for me.

That bumble be came in at 15 nf. This is wrong. Wrong as can be. So I made a .544 up. With two .022 caps and a .01 :P
I also did the .15
Testy testy time:
Also still wondering about the variable pot. Is it an audio tapered one or something. Because with my new tester it goes up to 500k then on the other side It goes up to 3 megs then says there's no connection, also across the whole variable pot there is 13 meg . Change it? for what?

Minutes later
The picture is still roughly the same. Maybe a bit better. But no sudden people on the screen.
And man you can feel this thing power up. Makes me feel really wack.

P.S. The pot is just screwy. On one side it won't even show 0 resistance . It'll go as low as 315 k then up and beyond 2 megs.