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Seriously, if you find one, send me a PM. Phil Nelson |
Too bad it's not 6CL6, I have a bunch of those.... Only one letter off. :D
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Nostalgia Air lists 6DT5 and 6CZ5 as substitutes
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http://antiqueradio.org/art/PhilcoF4...tyImproved.jpg Re-centering the vertical also helps (duh). Strange yoke gizmo, by the way. Horizontal linearity ain't perfect, but with no linearity adjuster I think I will call this good enough. The next project is already underway. Here's the usual gabby article: http://antiqueradio.org/PhilcoF4626MTelevision.htm Thanks for the advice. Phil Nelson |
Didn't find that tube, BTW. Looks good to me!
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Bill(oc) |
indeed the gabbfest is good, as is the consistant style (tube layout etc..).
I have been using the cut off the can and leave the base intact approach lately as well on sets where I dont want to spend a lot of time on. I use a bone saw style for the cutting, seem them on those late night infomercials, the receprocate and you can plunge cut direct into the can with very little access. A bit pricey though...but fast. |
Would it hurt to add a 10 ohm resistor on the HOT cathode? It would make it easy to check cathode current using ohm's law, 100ma = 1v. FWIW I do this on each of the output tubes on all HI FI amp builds, makes bias checks easy.
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Interesting idea. I have also heard of adding a 250ma fuse lamp there.
http://www.videokarma.org/archive/in...p/t-13637.html The fuse adds protection and the lamp is a poor man's current meter -- adjust for lower brightness. Phil Nelson |
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This looks like a pretty complete replacement. It's physically smaller and it has different insulation. No wax -- yay! http://antiqueradio.org/art/PhilcoF4626MNewFlyback.jpg Phil Nelson |
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The ones for Predictas were the only replacement flybacks I ever saw supplied that way. oc |
I've heard the same thing from other sources about Predicta flybacks (you only got the windings for a replacement). I think Phil's set takes exception to what we have come to expect with the Predicta name (crappy construction) as it was a top of the line set for them at the time.
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Andy's method worked like a charm. Clip the 428B probe over the HOT lead and measure away. Easy as pie. On this set, the Width control affects the current directly, so I turned it down to around 100ma, which gives reasonable width & picture. I got the 428B to use on my color roundies, but it has already earned back the few shekels I paid for it, and now I feel better about just letting this Philco play away. After warming up a couple of minutes, it looks fine without the CRT brightener, so I tossed that in a box. Who knows why they put on a brightener in the first place? Maybe that was a quicker solution than diagnosing some peskier issue. Phil Nelson |
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Kevin |
Sorry, the method is just what I said (only too briefly). The 428B is a DC milliammeter whose clip-on probe you can place around the HOT lead to measure the current. Andy C. has mentioned doing this before. I thought I had referenced that somewhere earlier in this thread, but maybe I just imagined that part.
Anyhow, it seems to work, and it's easier than lifting one end of the cathode lead to measure. Perfect for a lazy guy like me. The manual is at hparchive.com. Talk about your cosmic gizmo. Be the first kid on your block with a second harmonic flux-gate-type magnetometer probe! Phil Nelson http://antiqueradio.org/art/HP428BProbeOpen.jpg |
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:D oc |
Ah... so it's a clamp on amp probe. For a minute there I thought you were just clipping the lead of a convention VOM over the HOT lead and measuring current. I thought maybe somehow with the HV it was jumping through the insulation. :D
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