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Phil Nelson 03-04-2011 10:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by miniman82 (Post 2996673)
I could swear I have a 6CM6 in the garage, I'll go look.

Want to trade for a dozen 6BH6? :)

Seriously, if you find one, send me a PM.

Phil Nelson

wa2ise 03-05-2011 12:28 AM

Too bad it's not 6CL6, I have a bunch of those.... Only one letter off. :D

Eric H 03-05-2011 02:02 AM

Nostalgia Air lists 6DT5 and 6CZ5 as substitutes

Phil Nelson 03-13-2011 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marty59 (Post 2996637)
Maybe this model Philco is picky about Vertical tubes like our Barber Pole models and you have to go through a bunch of 'em to find some that perform well enough to correct that linearity issue.

I tried a couple of new 6CM6 tubes and now I can get closer.

http://antiqueradio.org/art/PhilcoF4...tyImproved.jpg

Re-centering the vertical also helps (duh). Strange yoke gizmo, by the way.

Horizontal linearity ain't perfect, but with no linearity adjuster I think I will call this good enough. The next project is already underway.

Here's the usual gabby article:

http://antiqueradio.org/PhilcoF4626MTelevision.htm

Thanks for the advice.

Phil Nelson

miniman82 03-13-2011 06:43 PM

Didn't find that tube, BTW. Looks good to me!

old_coot88 03-14-2011 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phil Nelson (Post 2997542)
.

Here's the usual gabby article:

Phil, your gabby articles are far and away the most entertaining, engaging and informative of any out there. I always settle into one of your resto sagas knowing it's gonna be enjoyable to the utmost.
Bill(oc)

DaveWM 03-14-2011 09:51 AM

indeed the gabbfest is good, as is the consistant style (tube layout etc..).

I have been using the cut off the can and leave the base intact approach lately as well on sets where I dont want to spend a lot of time on.

I use a bone saw style for the cutting, seem them on those late night infomercials, the receprocate and you can plunge cut direct into the can with very little access. A bit pricey though...but fast.

TerrySmith 03-14-2011 10:02 AM

Would it hurt to add a 10 ohm resistor on the HOT cathode? It would make it easy to check cathode current using ohm's law, 100ma = 1v. FWIW I do this on each of the output tubes on all HI FI amp builds, makes bias checks easy.

Phil Nelson 03-14-2011 10:29 AM

Interesting idea. I have also heard of adding a 250ma fuse lamp there.

http://www.videokarma.org/archive/in...p/t-13637.html

The fuse adds protection and the lamp is a poor man's current meter -- adjust for lower brightness.

Phil Nelson

Phil Nelson 04-09-2011 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old_coot88 (Post 2995816)
Interesting too will be to see if the new fly is same as the Predicta's. That is, the replacement consisting of only the primary windings and 'tire'. You have to reuse the whole frame and core and the paper spacers between the 'C' halves since they determine resonance.

I'm still debating whether to leave the repaired flyback alone (works fine, so far) or install the new one (hey, what else did I buy it for?).

This looks like a pretty complete replacement. It's physically smaller and it has different insulation. No wax -- yay!

http://antiqueradio.org/art/PhilcoF4626MNewFlyback.jpg

Phil Nelson

old_coot88 04-10-2011 09:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phil Nelson (Post 3000290)
This looks like a pretty complete replacement. It's physically smaller and it has different insulation. No wax -- yay!

Hmm. Differnt supplier, evidently. Ours was the wax version and came sans the frame.
The ones for Predictas were the only replacement flybacks I ever saw supplied that way.
oc

leadlike 04-10-2011 09:54 AM

I've heard the same thing from other sources about Predicta flybacks (you only got the windings for a replacement). I think Phil's set takes exception to what we have come to expect with the Predicta name (crappy construction) as it was a top of the line set for them at the time.

Phil Nelson 04-19-2011 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phil Nelson (Post 2995963)
With a .1 uf cap in place, I measured 118ma cathode current with the Triplett meter. That's the middle of the 100ma-140ma range given in the schematic. I'm going to quit stressing over this, since the voltages on the HOT and general performance are also normal.

Speaking of current measurement, this week I got my hands on an HP 428B DC milliammeter, which gave the same reading as my old Triplett meter, so I guess the Triplett's good enough for government work.

Andy's method worked like a charm. Clip the 428B probe over the HOT lead and measure away. Easy as pie. On this set, the Width control affects the current directly, so I turned it down to around 100ma, which gives reasonable width & picture.

I got the 428B to use on my color roundies, but it has already earned back the few shekels I paid for it, and now I feel better about just letting this Philco play away. After warming up a couple of minutes, it looks fine without the CRT brightener, so I tossed that in a box. Who knows why they put on a brightener in the first place? Maybe that was a quicker solution than diagnosing some peskier issue.

Phil Nelson

Kevin Kuehn 04-19-2011 11:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phil Nelson (Post 3001329)
Andy's method worked like a charm. Clip the 428B probe over the HOT lead and measure away. Easy as pie. On this set, the Width control affects the current directly, so I turned it down to around 100ma, which gives reasonable width & picture.

I missed something. What exactly was Andy's method?

Kevin

Phil Nelson 04-20-2011 12:18 AM

Sorry, the method is just what I said (only too briefly). The 428B is a DC milliammeter whose clip-on probe you can place around the HOT lead to measure the current. Andy C. has mentioned doing this before. I thought I had referenced that somewhere earlier in this thread, but maybe I just imagined that part.

Anyhow, it seems to work, and it's easier than lifting one end of the cathode lead to measure. Perfect for a lazy guy like me.

The manual is at hparchive.com. Talk about your cosmic gizmo. Be the first kid on your block with a second harmonic flux-gate-type magnetometer probe!

Phil Nelson

http://antiqueradio.org/art/HP428BProbeOpen.jpg

old_coot88 04-20-2011 07:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phil Nelson (Post 3001342)
...Be the first kid on your block with a second harmonic flux-gate-type magnetometer probe!

That sounds like sumpthin' out of 'Back to the Future'.


:D
oc

Kevin Kuehn 04-20-2011 12:46 PM

Ah... so it's a clamp on amp probe. For a minute there I thought you were just clipping the lead of a convention VOM over the HOT lead and measuring current. I thought maybe somehow with the HV it was jumping through the insulation. :D


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