try subbing other sweep tubes esp the 6JE6 and the 3A3.

do you have the correct damper tube? make sure its a 6DW4 and not some 6C somthing

check the screen voltage and current of the 6JE6

does the focus coil look ok? (not burned up).

The focus coil looks fine.. The 6JE6 tests very strong.. I don't have another tube to put in it's place to see if there is any change.. I would have to order another one off eBay to do that.. The damper tube in it is a 6CJ3.. According to the sams, it's suppose to be a 6DW4.. But supposedly those are both the same tubes... Doing an eBay search most auctions list those tubes under both set of numbers.. There is no picture and HV only holds at 5000kv as I said in a previous post..

As for doing voltage checks and measuring across the pot, I will take the chassis back out tonight and do all of that..

maybe its a similar problem i had with my sivertone, after checking voltages at the 6bk4 shunt come to find out there was a shorted ceramic disc in the IF section that affected the bias voltage of the shunt tube and kept the hv from rising up to where it belongs. after checking the hv adjust pot and all other related voltages come to find that the shorted ceramic cap was in the shunt tube heater string that only would have affected the crt heater, shunt tube heater, and one other that i dont remember at this point because it took years to find this problem and i dont want to look back on it because it took so long to figure out. and let me point out that i would have never have found this problem if it was not for daveWM . so if anyone is going to get to an unusual problem with one of these sets it will be daveWM. take your time and be sure to check even everything even if something dont seem related and you will probably be surprised at what you may find as the culprit all along.like me i never would have thought that a tiny .001 cap would have caused the problems i had for so long. over the 4 years i had this silvertone i replaced so much, caps, resistors, done it all.

tube substitutions are the way to go with sweep circuits not tube checkers.
if you have another working roundie use those tubes.

you may be running off frequency, a scope or freq counter would tell you that.

try unpluging the shunt tube plate cap (HV there so hang out away from anything to prevent arcing). see if voltage comes up.

make sure yoke is plugged in correctly.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CiaDjKUw0nU

this should be checked on ALL vintage tv's, it is now something I do routinely.

This is a preventive maint kind of thing, as it detects a defect that can destroy shunt tubes and CRT's if there is a problem.

Ok, I got the chassis out up on the table, and I'm getting only 244v at the HV regulator tube on pin 5, assuming it's the shunt tube, on the pin where the 1.5meg resistor is.. It's suppose to be 400v..

I'm measuring 0455v where the 1k resistor is on (R139) under the same tube which is HV regulator tube.. I cut the one side to measure the 1k resistor and it's only 181ohms on the meter.. Bad resistor.. Sams says voltage should be 410v, and the same on the other side of the resistor, but meter shows it a bit higher on the other side..

Adjusting the Horz EFF coil has made the current go down to around 197 - 205 ma under the HV output tube... I replaced the the 1k resistor and voltages go down to where they should be under horz reg tube..

Perhaps maybe the EFF coil could be an issue too seeing how it's right next to where the cap exploded..

Still under horz reg tube the voltages are still low at pin 5.. and HV probe at anode still shows only 5000kv

Here's the screen voltages:

Pin 4 340v
Pin 13 360v
Pin 5 345v
Pin 6 around 140-150 should be 200v
Pin 12 the same as pin 6
Pin 2 again same as pin 6 and 12
Pin 7 630v should be 960v
Pin 11 600v should be 980v
Pin 3 597v should be 860v

Voltages are being checked without the convergence board hooked up if that matters.. Please read previous posts as its started another page and I posted other posts..

pin 5 is the ref voltage from the voltage divider off the boost.

Clearly the boost is low as it should be in the 800v range (the voltage divider of the 1.5 meg resistors and the HV adj pot sets up the 400v that should be there.

the low voltage on the pin 5 means the shunt is completely cut off, so its doing nothing (the HV adj is prob not having any effect).

I would look at the .068 caps off the eff coil, leakage there could pull down the boost voltage.

check the resistance reading of the yoke as well for the horz windings.

with the horz tube out of the socket, read the DC voltage at the plate lead (the one that says "do not measure") again WITH THE HORZ TUBE OUT OF THE SOCKET.

the 1k resistor in the cathode of the shunt must have gotten very hot at some point and carbonized to that that low (181 ohms). This means something bad wrong happened in the shunt circuit at some point. could have just been a shorted tube, but hard to say.

Did you ever read the DC voltage to ground of the filaments of the CRT?

I checked both caps that are .082 and .068 off the EFF coil and they are good and no leakage according to my cap checker, even checked a new one with one in comparison...

If you mean the ohms in between the two yellow wires and two wires that are blue and red.. I get 00.8 ohms between them.. I don't have the yoke hooked to it...

Which pins are the firmaments to test?

Which pin on the HV output tube to measure I see where it says do not measure but not sure which pin..

The EFF coil was adjusting strange I thought.. it's a position in the middle where it can stay below or around 200ma, if I start adjusting either way, it starts going up..

crt pin 1 to ground. what is the DC voltage

the yoke resistance is given in the sams, check where the horz wires plug in.

you need to disconnect the yoke to check the resistance readings, otherwise the yoke should always be attached when running the set with the sweep circuits active.

Pin 1 to ground is around 195vdc... Trying to figure out the yoke resistance.. Looking on the sams, and I still can't figure that one out..

Still not sure about the horz output tube.. Shows the lead going to the flyback section where it says to "do not measure", but I don't see any wire going to the fly section from the HV output tube..

I can't have everything hooked up when doing voltage checks, I leave everything in the set, and remove the chassis/tuner/controls/ and set up all that in a different room on a table to work on.. As there is no room.. Yoke stays on pic tube in the set..

I'm following the sams and it says there is a 1240v boost point on the convergence board which is tied into the other higher voltages I listed that are low.. Now I'm measuring without the convergence board hooked up.. Is that why?

Update: I tested voltages with everything hooked up, and I checked pin 7 for voltages and it's even lower.. I noticed the shunt tube filament came up..

horz windings of yoke should be around 6.6 ohms per sams (disconnect red and blue leads before checking)

HV readings (currently at 5kv) was that taken with the yoke connected or not connected?

HV will not work if yoke is not connected.

well you may get 5kv with the yoke out, if your lucky. sounds like the headache i had with that silvertone hv problem. BTW its still working great , whites are white, lol..

I tried it both ways and HV was the same.. I disconnected the red and blue wires and put the the probes of the meter where the blue and red wires would go and my meter reads 007.5 ohms..

No change with the yoke connected and not connected huh, that is odd.

I suggest you do some continuity checks from the yoke leads back to the set, something is not right. I think the yoke is not in the circuit.

what is the ohms of the leads?

also check while working the horz pos pot back and forth.

00.72 ohms between the blue and red wires.. It does change slightly moving the horz centering pot, if that's the one you are talking about..

These long things.. I'm not sure what they are.. I figure they are a resistor of some sort, or a fuse.. The black long thing and the bumble bee colored black/yellow thing.. I measure them with my ohm meter and they measure open.. I get no continuity out of either of them on both continuity beep mode or regular resistance mode....

http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...V/DSCF0355.jpg

focus rectier (long black), the other is a 66meg resistor, not part of the problem.
Could be the horz osc is WAY out of tune.

.72 ohm seems low given the values in the sams.

Hmmmm... So what would the problem be?

well you could start by check the various winding resistance per the sams, yoke disconnected of course on the fly.

I'm not able to follow in between which wires to measure... I'm able to follow a schematic slightly, but alot of times, I'll see where a cap and resistor that are connected to each other than when I look for the resistor and cap number on the sams and then follow the schematic they are far away from each other on two totally different circuits and connected to other things..


Here's the pic of the wires coming out of the flyback:

http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...V/DSCF0186.jpg

the sams has a term guide for the fly printed right next the the fly on the schematic.

None of this tells me anything:

http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...V/DSCF0364.jpg

i dont want to stick my nose in here but the focus coil looks done, they do get warm but not hot enough to burn the cover over the coil . i do know that if the focus coil is run to far one way they burn right up since i burned a new one i had just got from moyers. that looks like an issue.

t4 is the guide look at the marks on the fly compare with the schematic it shows where they go either by letter or number whatever is there. and that fly may be old but it looks like it got really hot, could be a short in the primary that now spread to the donut.

P to chassis ground gives me 2.6megs if im measuring correctly.. But I think I'm suppose to measure in between wires going into the donut..

example Plate lead of 3a3 to plate lead of 6je6 is 635 ohms

p to C2 5.5

agree with timmy, check the focus coil use the term guide, shorted focus coil could account for the low reading from the blue and red yoke wires.

shorting the yoke also would explain why it has no effect.

Good eyes there Timmy, I think you got it.

P and C2 are labeled at the same terminal and are connected together.. Look at the pic above.. Unless they mean C2 being the wire on the back side connected to the top of centering pot.. If so, than I'm getting 6.5ohm

check the focus coil

Focus coil, three terminals being used, one outer one connected with a resistor to the middle... Measuring the two outer ones, I'm getting 1.4 ohms as I'm turning the control there is no change other than the meter bouncing back and forth from 1.4 to 1.5 ohms.. And the slug keeps turning, there is no end in either direction..

L41 is the focus coil check the terminal guide 1234 and compare with the coil on the sams and check the ohms 28.5 x2 and a 42.5 but you may have to clip one end of the resistor thats there. really high ohms its bad really low ohms its bad it should be at a happy medium. turning the coil stick wont change anything but disconnect what is on it to get an accurate reading , it is a pain in the ass.

Indeed you are right timmy.. I suppose I should just remove the whole flyback assy at this point, and take reference photos of what is connected to other parts of the chassis before I do?