So glad to hear you fixed your set. Now you can enjoy watching it. Have fun.
ED

Sounds like you have it. Nice work.

Steve, please send me the schematics for the ctc-7 and for the ctc-9 if you have them in a digitized form.

Usually I take a small screwdriver too and scrape the board around the traces and connections I work on. But the boards of this vintage set are very old and I thought that I would damage it by doing this. Therefore I didn't do it this time. You know the results. )-:
But I'm very happy that nothing more was destroyed and hope so. This I thank you, because I had always running the meters and I see on them that something unexpected happened very fast. If I hadn't run the meters I probably had first noticed the defect when smoke and fire came out of the chassis.

Yes, it seems so. I noticed that the control range of the horizontal frequency has become smaller. When I turn the core of the horizontal hold, the brightness is getting darker or brighter, I can see that this has an effect on the horizontal output drive. In the momemt I can only display a tv program with CCIR / Gerber format, i.e. 50 cycles vertical and 15,625 cycles horizontal scanning lines. When I try to display NTSC and adjust the horizontal hold up to 15,750 cycles, horizontal frequency is disturbing by small interupts, i.e. there are misfires in the frequency with bright sparks in the middle of the screen. With 150k (R603) the 6CG7 might be overloaded. I have just the exact voltage values in the horizontal oscillator unit of the set asccording to the RCA manual.
But I have received now the complete Sams Photofact papers for the ctc-5 in jpeg-files. (Please PV me if you want it too.) In the Sams the schematics are more detailed and with different voltage values than in the RCA manual. Here are they (in brackets are the values of the RCA manual):

Pin 2 of the 6CG7: -15v (-27v)
Pin 3 of the 6CG7: 10v (5v)
Pin 6 of the 6CG7: 215v (235v)
Pin 7 of the 6CG7: -70v (-88v)

Pin 3-6 of the 6CB5: 6v (7.5v)
Pin 4-5 of the 6CB5: -30v (-40v)

One can see that the values of the Sams are lower than the RCA values. The RCA values are border values in my opinion. I would lower the resistance of R603 down to 130K or 120K to avoid overloading of the horizontal oscillator.

Nice job, yagosaga. I sow the tv on your site. I'm lucky if I ever get my hand on an "R.C.A." CTC-11.

Hot flyback
 

Tonight I have checked the flyback of my PALcolor 708, the first PAL color tv set by Telefunken, which has nearly the same currents like the RCA CTC-5 (380 volts). After one hour the flyback was much more as hot as the flyback of the ctc-5. One can't touch the flyback of the PALcolor for a longer time because it is too hot! In comparison the ctc-5's flyback was really cold.
Both sets are operating with 380 volts in the horizontal output unit (anode voltage for the horizontal output tube), the ctc-5's current shouldn't extend 220 ma. The PALcolor has 260 mA horizontal output current. This indicates that the growing temperature of the flyback of the ctc-5 is in the normal range.

ctc5 working with chassis outside
 

Today I have soldered an octal connection for the deflection yokes to operate the chassis outside the set (see photo). I tried to adjust the horizontal output current by turning the core inside the horizontal tuning coil (horizontal linearity). But I can't turn the core, it sticks. How can I loosen the core without destoying the coil? Here by us we do that with a special oil which is a mixture of oil and some kind of acid. But is this the right way for fixing such vintage devices?

Eckhard. turn the set on and run it for 45 min. The heat from the coil may break the core loose. I do not think you should put any oil on the coil. It may destroy it.

CTC-5 IN Germany
 

Wow I guess detweiler has a source for tubes and everythjng else in the father land. Did Europeans do Color TV later?? I know they made BW TV's earlier. No Early Color Euro TV are turning up on Eay. They must be very rare. Anyone got an idea as to make & models of early euros????????


:banana: :scratch2: :smoke:

pictures
 

Here are some pictures of my ctc 5 E. Two of them are off the dvd.
The other one is off the air. UHF ch 23.
I have been running the set at 114 vac 214 ma horz current for quite some time. The fly gets hot after a couple hours. But I can hold my hand on it and there is no wax dripping out of it.
The only problems I have had, Is a color tube go bad and the camera picks up lines. You can see them if u blow them up. I do not see the lines when I am watching it. Even if I am close to the screen
Sorry it took me so long. I caught some stupid flu, And I found my self A new gf.

Thank you for that great photos of your ctc-5. Next time, when I have some hours in one piece, I will remove the chassis and do the adjustments. It is important to know for me that your set didn't get a hot flyback with 214 ma horizontal current.
BTW: I was worried nothing to hear from you such a long time. I hope you have no aftereffects of the flu.
Meanwhile I have got two Telefunken sets (A PALcolor and a PALcromat, both from 1967) of the first hour of color tv here into working condition. But I was dissapointed about the contrast range. Both sets have a small contrast range in comparison to other brands.

Eckhard
You are welcome. I checked out your Telefunken sets on your site. The sets have a vary good picture on them. You do good work.
I had a vary high tempture and the doc gave me some pills, And I had a bad reaction to them. I am all better now. Thank you.

Hot flyback, adjusting the core of the linearity coil for the lowest honizontal current:
This weekend I have removed the chassis again and turned the set on. The coil remained cool, even after one hour and I couldn't turn the core inside it. Then I tested different cores from other sets, inserting into the empty space of the linearity coil. With the best core I could reduce the horizontal current from 220 ma down to 180 ma. I have fixed the core with some adhesive in this position, so it could not drop down and I can adjust the core later.

Eckhard
How did you remove the stuck core and When you adjusted the current to 180 ma what did it do to the picture? I was suprised to hear that the coil was not even getting warm.

I didn't remove the stuck core but inserted an additional core. I found that it works while trying to turn the stuck core with a screwdriver, every time when I inserted the screwdriver into the coil the horizontal current decreased. But the stuck core remained in its fixed position.
I took the second core from a coil of the flyback unit of a newer solid state tv set. The picture width didn't change but it was clear visible that the horizontal linearity changed. I have to adjust the convergence tonight again.
Beside the core into the coil, I added the horizontal drive regulation circuit of the ctc-7 schematics. With it I can adjust the overall horizontal drive and the high voltage currents at the 6BK4.
BTW: the 21AXP22A has a really strong emission on all three guns. Before three weeks Steven Kissinger visited me, together with Ingo Kubbe. Ingo has a RCA crt meter and we measured the crt. All three guns have 100 percent emission, even the red gun.

Eckhard
Man, You are one smart dude. I am going to take a look at the ctc7 schematic so I know what you are talking about. The ctc7 is one set I would like to get my hands on. When you inserted the additional core did the coil start to get warm?
The picture does look nice and bright on your set so I figured the crt was good.
But to have at 100 percent emission on the red gun is even better. On my 21axp crts the red is the weaker of the guns. The meter on the life test goes down faster than the green and blue, But there is still a lot of life in them. The ctc5e set has a 21fbp glass crt in it. The other 2 sets have a 21axp in them. One is a rebuild and the other is original.

Here are the changes I did. The colored parts mark the additional parts. Last night I watch tv with the ctc5. The flyback remained cool after half an hour and was getting warm after one and a half hour, but not so hot that I couldn't touch it. That's ok.

Thank you.
I am going to do this to my set. I will return the horz section back the way it was and then add this to the circuit to see what happens. I may even try to add a core to the lin coil. The ctc5e has been working well, But this will work even better.

Take a soldering strip for the adding circuits. It is easy to remove later if you wish to restore the original condition. And you can easily fix the strip under the chassis.

Here are some screen shots I took of the ctc5e in march.
The set was on rabbit ears so they may not look that good.
My old dvd burned out so I bought a new one. {you get what you pay for}
The new dvd has a setting for the pal system and I thought that was cool and it puts out a great picture. When I update my pictures on this program you will see the dvd. Philips brand.