When I tested the gassy 21AXP in my CTC-4 there was a LOT of neck light. There was some on this tube but you would have to REALLY be looking for it...Which I did when I retested it after running it in the set.

I got the tube for free from Miniman a couple of years back, so I can't complain about it being gassy. It did have a cataract when I got it, and was the first successful cataract removal I ever did. Between the use as a learning tool for cataract removal and the decent safety glass I harvested from it I'd say I got more than my moneys worth out of it. LOL.

I cleaned the good CRT and the harvested safety glass from the bad one, put some foam tape spacers on the tube face and caulked the safety glass on to the good tube. Both the tube and glass have some small scratches so neither will ever be perfect, but it should serve as a decent CRT for the set. In 23 hours when the caulk is dry I'll put the Silver-Glo CRT back in the set this time without a cataract AND WITH a safety glass.

Huh, that's odd. I remember that tube, it's the one with messy looking frit holding it together right? I remember when I got that it tested a little low, but I figured it would work OK if I ever got a set that needed a tube so I kept it in the closet. I don't remember when you got it, but it looks like it got a little gassy over the years. I wonder if it has a glass pinch off or copper?

That was the one I gave you! I don't remember if it was a freebee or a trade.
I dropped it off at Mark's home in Kenosha, to be given to you.
It came from my 24NC31. It was meant to be a dud. It was just an innocent mixup on your part. After a while, they all look alike.
The only reason I recognized it, is the 6-26 code date. The last Zenith roundy set made.
BTW, I don't trust CRT testers, no matter how good they are! :scratch2:

Thanks for the pics Tom. From the looks of that coil, it has been broken at some point in the past and someone melted it back together. I would think that as long as the spooling area is not broken or collapsed, the conductor wind is continuous, and the shaft is free then everything should be OK with one of these. Mine felt springy at the wound area which would be a problem. I need to double check that to be certain. I have never pulled the chassis as I am trying to wait until I get all the caps that I need. Again, thanks and good luck with your set.

Yeah it is the one with the messy frit.

Tubejunkie: Your welcome, good luck on yours as well.
Be glad you have a metal cabinet set...The chassis shelf on this set is made of the CRAPPIEST particle board I've seen in any wood cabinet Zenith(or any other make for that matter), and I have Zeniths older and newer than this.
http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/...psbb6a0ac6.jpg

I THOROUGHLY degaussed the CRT as well as it's mounting hardware last night, and reinstalled the CRT. After setting the CRT back up I'm getting GREAT purity, and the adjustment range of most of the neck hardware has greatly improved!
I'm going to put this set on hold until the schematic from Dave gets here, then I'll dig in to the vertical.

Here are some pictures of it as of this morning.
http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/...psf1e968fc.jpg
http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9ab970bd.jpg
http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/...ps582a959a.jpg
http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/...psf69fa697.jpg

looking MUCH better!

I know wht you mean about the particleboard bottom on these sets. It starts to split at the back of the set. What I did to fix mine was take some carpenter's glue and repair the part that was splitting and also I painted the glue evenly across the underside of the cabinet because some of the particleboard would flake off of the surface. The glue dries clear and holds everything together. They should have used plywood for the bottom. The rest of the cabinet is well made. I prefer Zenith chassis but I always thought RCA had nicer cabinets. I wish I could build a custom cabinet for my Zenith roundie out of all hardwood.

Thanks for the glue tip. I'm using wood glue to fix the split wood lip that is supposed to help hold the back on....And I'm considering repainting the inside of the shelf to hold the surface together.

When I had my cabinet professionally refinished, I asked about replacing the bottom but I was told it did not look that bad and the cabinet would have to be knocked apart to replace it. I wish it had been replaced. I know someone had a thread where they did replace a Zenith cabinet bottom with 3/4" plywood, cut the holes out for the service saver access panel and cut a groove for the back cover. It turned out really well.

I believe that the bottom panel was not what they were referring to by service saver. I believe that it was a reference to those quick release fasteners that hold the back on, they saved a lot of time versus the dozen or so screws other sets used to hold the back on, which translated to money on charge by the hour house calls.

Are you sure about that? The removable panel on the bottom precludes pulling the chassis for most under chassis repair. The quick release back cover clips are a nice convenience, though.

I always thought that the "service saver" idea was based on a combination of the thins mentioned in this thread along with the fact that in the (later I believe) 50s Zenith chassis had the wiring connecting points mounted on those brown strips providing test points above chassis, which I'm sure many will agree would save a ton of time and trouble.

The Zenith roundie is looking much better now! Looks like you might be on the "home stretch" Good work.