Now that you've put the RTV on the flyback this may be a moot point for this particular discussion, but what does the jury say about using the High Voltage Corona Dope that comes in the jar with the little brush? I've never tried it to completely recover a flyback, but it works great for insulating other sensitive points in the HV cage. Why not recoat a fly with that?

I've used dope to touch up a few hotspots on flybacks with good results. It might not work so well on the whole donut and over the remains of the old coating though. The RTV is very tough and flexible while the dope it hard and brittle.

Figures with that concentric shaft setup. Mine aren't the exact same as the the ones I linked to earlier. Mine are possibly a 20 year old OEM part with a plastic shaft. Anyhoo...

Did anyone ever use that tool handle insulating dip for covering a flyback or other parts? Should be able to brush it on.

Not sure if it would have the required dielectric properties.

Rather than tool dip, liquid tape might do it. Available in spray or brush on. They say:

"Liquid Tape has the strongest dielectric protection on the market; 1,200 v/mil, 5 – 7 mils per coat."

They recommend applying several coats.

Bob, did you see this on the Early TV website?

I have a number of the Push-Push Off-On switches for Predicta televisions. These are new old stock and are $19.99 plus $5.20 Priority Mail. I take Pay Pal. Don, dpatterson002 at comcast dot net. (1/18/12)

Yes, that's where I got my switch :)

I've been working on the screen this weekend. There were some gouges in the plastic but wet sanding has mostly gotten them out.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8327/8...fc3956fe_c.jpg

A bit more buffing and I'll call it done.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8465/8...547e1398_c.jpg

The CRT sure was dirty :yuck:
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8049/8...eddcd58d_c.jpg

Wow, is it supposed to be that yellow-green?

Yes, it is. The later models like the Princess used a different kind of plastic that is clearer, harder and doesn't stink.
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2669/4...41468ff8_z.jpg

I KNOW that stink! I brought it all the way over to Australia!

A mixture of well worn athlete's runners, parmesan cheese, BO and goat vomit!
Fantastic job on the polishing, hope mine comes out like that when the time comes. Does the stink become less when you clean it? I've heard that it does. Looking at the cloth you used to clean the face of the tube, I wonder how many brighteners may have been fitted over the years that needn't have?

Looks great, curious what you used to wet sand it with? ie. grit and what you wet it with, just water? I have a GE portable with a plastic screen that has gouges I need to sand out too.

Yes, the stink is reduced with a good cleaning, but it's does creep back - especially on warm, humid days. Yes, it was quite dirty and I'm hoping it wil be noticeably brighter once back together.

Thanks. 320, 600, 1000, 1500 then Novus #3 and #2. Yes, I just used water.

Bob, I didn't realize that apparently the on-off switch on my new Philco set had at some point in the past been changed to a push-pull type, so I made the false assumption that your switch was the same type. The switch I posted the link to is a push-pull. Didn't realize yours had a push-push until I watched your last video. :o

Bob,

I usually hang out in the vintage color section, but while perusing the B&W came across your Predicta restoration site. I was hooked and read it start to finish. Great photos and step by step progress reports. Looking forward to seeing the finished set with your choice of cabinet restoration.

Thanks for sharing,
-Steve D.

Hey, if it works, I don't see any problem with using a push-pull switch.


You're welcome. It's taken some twists and turns I didn't expect. As for the cabinet, I'm on the fence about using veneer or Di-NOC.

Here's a shot with the safety plastic removed. That's quite a difference! It reminds me of the Hoffman "Easy Vision" safety glass.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8043/8...901c0663_z.jpg http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8049/8...03968838_z.jpg

I wonder if they were that green when new or if time has taken a toll?
Also the 17" sets have a clear screen so that would indicate they didn't intend for the 21" models to be green but the type of plastic may deteriorate with time.

It has to be harder on the CRT as well having to be cranked up to compensate for the darkness of the cover.

The Hoffman is a little greener but also a lot clearer because it's actual glass and not 50 year old plastic, though there is a lamination layer.

http://www.vintagetvsets.com/images/bee2.jpg

Your cover is much greener than the one on my 21" barberpole. It sits about three feet away from my 17" Siesta and I just turned them both on for a comparison.

Now that I'm looking for it, I guess the 21" screen appears very slightly green next to the 17" set, but I have played the TVs together many times and that never occurred to me.

That cover has also been less stinky than what some people report. Until I read about it in forums, I hadn't noticed any smell at all. Perhaps the two are related (more stink = darker green).

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
http://antiqueradio.org/index.html

This comment not related to tint but directed toward focus of the picture:

Both the 21" and the 17" models have a focus "jumper". Usually one position is superior to the other, so try it in both.

LOL - could be. I'll see how it compares to my Tandem sets.

I tried both positions are barely noticed any difference. I've observed that in other sets too :scratch2:

I received a sample of Mahogany Di-Noc today. I think it looks great and plan on using it. it sure will save time versus using real veneer and having to glue, fill stain and finish it.

It's not quite the same color as the old finish though. So I'm pondering if I can get away with just coating the damaged center section or should I redo all the photo finish areas :scratch2:

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8466/8...b31fd95d_c.jpg

From the picture it looks enough different in color that you'd probably wish you had done the whole set, if you only did the middle.

Yeah, I agree. I'm currently leaning towards trying to replicate the photo finish using these techniques. It won't cost much to give it a shot.

Meanwhile, I've moved on to cleaning the CRT housing.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8185/8...cf86f2fc_c.jpg

Years of cigarette nicotine attracted by the HV I bet :yuck: It cleaned out easily with some "Spray Nine" my new favorite multi-purpose cleaner.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8326/8...bfdff2c0_c.jpg

The CRT inside is a genuine Philco replacement 21FDP4.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8472/8...a1ca4594_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8196/8...2d7b419e_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8474/8...e29b37c1_c.jpg

Most of my sets have that nicotine film on them when I get them. I suppose we are all used to it. I am amazed when one doesnt have it. My Predicta and my Admiral had none. And both are in super nice shape. I really think they spent their lives in one house and obviously no smokers. I sure have enjoyed this thread.

You may want to look up "retrobrite" online.

From what I can see, this stuff is ideal for our vintage projects.

You can't buy it, you simply make it yourself. There are recipes and it looks pretty easy. In the instance of the CRT case on a Predicta, I'd try some on the inside first in case it takes the colour back too far.

It consists of hydrogen peroxide and a few other things. When time permits, I want to try it out and I think it'll remove that faded yellow/brown colour.

I'd love to hear if anyone has already tried this!

It's really not necessary on this set. The color of the case is correct and the gunk on the inside cleaned right off.

I have read about using similar products on vintage computers and gaming consoles with mixed results.

That brown color is correct for the Predicta, the discoloration on newer stuff is caused by the Fire Retardant additives according to what I read, probably not an issue in 1959.

I see a lot of newer Plastic sets that have discolored though, especially if they are White or Pink to start with.

Great news!! :D

I regularly look for Tandems on ePay, and it's interesting to note that the CRT case seems to show in a range of shades on the various Predictas that show up. I can't tell if it's the white balance setting on the camera, or if the plastic goes darker over time.

I too have read about the flame retarding chemicals in plastic going browny yellow. Does anyone know if the green area at the front edge of the screen should be tan in colour? Mine is green and it looks OK.

Catchya,

Adam

I suspect it's the camera and lighting. All the Predicta CRT cases I've seen in person (including four Tandems) are pretty much the same color. You mean the border around the picture tube ? It's definitely greenish :yes:

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3429/3...529d86594a.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7114/7...f2082822b2.jpg

[QUOTE It's definitely greenish [/QUOTE]

Ah! That's exactly how mine looks. I like it actually, I think it looks better than a tan border would. I only hope when I get time to look at my Holiday, the tube has some life in it.
I LOVE your Tandem!

I decided to give this veneer a try. It's real mahogany sliced very, very thin with a paper backer.

I've got about 10 feet on ebay for 12 bucks so plenty to experiment with. First I'll try a test with red mahogany stain.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8350/8...e7b68133_c.jpg

I think I am posting about the right set.

Been thinking about your restoration in the...
Predicta "Holiday" restoration p13o?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlHtGky46r4

at about 16:05 the LED Back light was staying lit for quite a while.

I believe if you connect the high side (ungrounded) lead of the LED to the high side of the filament string it would stop the strange behavior.

My theory is that since LED lighting will stay lit with only 3.2v across them at
a very low current, the capacitor is holding enough charge to cause the LED to stay lit until the charge is depleted.

If you relocate the lead to the (top) of the filament string the resistance of the tubes will drain the charge at that point almost immediately, so the LED will extinguish almost immediately.

The voltage at this point is AC and there is no DC path back to the filter capacitors.

Have a good day...
Love your restoration videos...

rrrhre2s

Thanks, yes, this is the same set. I'll give that a try next time I get it up on the workbench.

Been using this thread as a guide for quite a bit here, thanks for being so in depth on this Bob :)

Which one did you end up using? I'm assuming it replaces the circled part in the diagram.

Also, the disc cap that's just below that, in the Sams it lists it as C47, having a value of 82 @ 5 kV. I assume that's 82 PF?

I used two of the 1 Amp max versions in series to best approximate the 400 ohm original.
The steady state resistance of these devices depend on the current through them. Running only 0.6A through the 2A version would result in a fairly high "hot" resistance.

Yes, 82pF. I left all the original ceramic caps in place.

Just about ready to plug in the variac and give my Predicta a first go. The only thing I can't find nor figure out is.....while attaching the picture tube, there are two single long leads.....one of which goes to pin 2 on the picture tube, the other goes to pin 6.

I can't see where the heck they're supposed to plug into the chassis. Anyone know offhand?

I believe pin 2 is the video which goes to a post on the main board. Pin 6 is focus which goes to either ground or boost - which ever gives better focus.

Any idea of *where* on the board these go? I can't find any info on it anywhere.....and there are a lot of posts on the main board.....