Between the 6 Instruction Sheets and the IF Strip Instruction Sheet, there are 280 individual steps!

103 have been completed.

A slightly related question?
Were did you source your replacement parts, all from Radio Daze? I really like the resistors you're using. The caps are similar to the ones from Jim's Antique Radios, they seem alright!
BTW, I wrap and crimp the component leads very much the same way you do before soldering. I was taught, "Mechanically and Electrically Secure".
A buddy asked, "Why do you do it that way, it's overkill". IF it's soldered properly, you don't have to do that. :scratch2:

I get my parts from Just Radios. Both caps and resistors. Good stuff. Sometimes I get caps from Sals. Good stuff too. I like using the 1W resistors because the leads are thicker and stronger than the 1/2W ones. I like Just Radios because I can get film caps, mica caps, e-caps, resistors, spaghetti tubing, heat shrink tubing all in one stop. I get some stuff like Nichicon e-caps, chassis mount resistors from Digikey

On the lead wrapping stuff. That's the way I've always done it. I have a background in the Avionics installation and repair and we always wrap the lead or wire for that extra security. It is overkill on these TV's but I think wrapping the lead also holds it in place till the other components are attached or till it's soldered.

I finished step 4 (Vertical Oscillator & Output). This step had 39 steps. Things went very well. I lengthened 1 wire by 2 inches. My .0047uf caps did not come in today so I couldn't install C29.

One thing I noticed is that the pre-made CRT connector and yoke wires are too long. Tonight I'll see how long they are and maybe adjust their length. I'll let you know what I found.

Here is an overall picture after step 4.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psdfsfzq00.jpg

Followed by some close ups of the area.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6uxf9cgs.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5dmjwlvv.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pscmfnt252.jpg

OK, first up is the CRT wiring length.

Here is how long it is as of right now.
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pshky5jzme.jpg

Here I am measuring 6 inches to shorten the harness by.
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pspi9h6nqx.jpg

Here is the harness pushed into the chassis 6 inches.
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pslnpi025w.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psoxj4kj89.jpg

It looks like I can shorten the harness by 6 inches and still have plenty of slack. Comments anybody?

Next up is the yoke harness.

Here is a picture that shows how long it as of right now.
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psrhhshwqg.jpg

Here I am measuring 6 inches to shorten the harness by.
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psewkrv3wh.jpg

And the harness pushed into the chassis 6 inches.
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psnz5ckvvx.jpg

So what do you think?

Man, with a beautiful chassis like that you'd better sign that chassis when you are done - it's "art" for sure. Use a paint pen, no wimpy Sharpie....

If you ever fall in love with an empty cabinet that needs the CRT mounted separate from the chassis the extra lead length could come in handy.

Yeah, it is nice. Thanks.

That's right, I forgot about that option. Thanks.

Enjoying this thread. Very cool! Good luck with your build.

I'm glad you're following along. That's why so many pictures and details.

Thanks.

Tom got me thinking about keeping the long wires. So I came up with this solution:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psxzwxw7vr.jpg

Now, my big question is having both the CRT and yoke wires with a coil in them will that affect the quality of the picture? Anybody know?

Thanks.

Probably not - no significant inductance or capacitance generated - if it was color, perhaps, but B/W, no. Think about Predictas - CRT/Yoke had some pretty long interconnect cables......

That makes me think, Heathkit TVs should have had "builder's signature" etched into the chassis instead of a signature line on the build sticker... :scratch2:

Really nice clean job.

Some of those "kit" cars that used a VW chassis to make an old roadster actually came with a bottle of champagne for when you were finished....

Similarly, my "How to keep your 73-77 Honda Civic/CVCC Civic alive" book had a section on opening a champagne bottle (the last step after an engine rebuild......)

Some KnightKits come with a "Built By" label - I had a Knight power suplly that was built from a kit, and had to rebuild a lot of it - I found the label on the chassis, buried under parts installed in the first steps..

Ditto. Chris, great job. :thmbsp:

I did find it. It is similar to your yoke plug. I'll post a picture if your interested.

To celebrate or christen/dent it? :D

Thanks guys for the kind words. Maybe I'll make a brass plate and attach it to the chassis.

Yes, please! Thanks.

I finished step 5 (Horizontal Oscillator) late last night. I had to lengthen a white wire from 18" to 27" and from 4" to 6". Everything else went ok. Some of the area got pretty tight.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pskpfxdyxn.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psy2q8owqu.jpg

Nice work! Set is really coming along....

This morning I decided to make a couple of mods to the build.

The first one was to T5 the Synchrogiude Transformer. When mounted to the chassis, the terminals were rotated 90 degrees and then they didn't match the instruction sheet.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pso0ksyfkl.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psuorsxzzv.jpg

Now I had already wired it in but decided that I could turn the guts 90 degrees to match the instruction sheet. After un-soldering the components and removing the transformer, I pried open the case by rolling the edges back even with the sides of the case. I then removed the coil and its base.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psmpee9n9d.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psgb0vyvsm.jpg

I then turned the top metal "clip" 90 degrees to match the instruction sheet. I then inserted the coils back in the case and rolled the bottom edge back over using a small dowel. Now the transformer matches the instruction sheet. I then reinstalled the components.

The other mod was to the two big caps that have a 90 degree bend on their right hand lead. I really didn't like that too much. So I added another terminal strip to terminate those leads. I cut off the end of a terminal strip and mounted it using an existing terminal strip hardware.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pskpfxdyxn.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8wxgusgw.jpg

Then I re-did those capacitors.

Much better now!

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pskoh08wkb.jpg

The last redo was to the 150K resistor next to the up and down terminal strip on the left hand side (TB12). I had to add a longer lead length because it went to another terminal strip. Look closely.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8wxgusgw.jpg

I checked the rest of the instruction sheets and a couple of terminals weren't going to be used on TB13. So I ran the resistor from TB12 terminal strip to the new location TB13 and added a jumper between TB13 and TB14.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pskoh08wkb.jpg

And finally an over all view after step 5.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psmtiojarh.jpg

I seems like past practice to keep the yellow wire separate from the rest.
I see you still use the time-proven method of using lacing cord instead of zip ties. That's when craftsmen still cared.
I see more of those strange Chinese names on the caps, but they seem to be good caps. :thmbsp:

dieseljeep,

Yeah, I still like lacing cord. It's a hold over from when I used to do avionic installations. The only time I used Ty-Raps was when attaching the harness to the airframe, if the OEM did the same. Otherwise it was Adel clamps.

Yup, I'll "break out" the yellow wire from the rest of the harness.

I got the caps, that I missed with my order from Just radios, from Sal's Capacitors. Very vice caps indeed.

I worked on step 6 (Horizontal Output and H.V.). I'm almost done wiring. Step 6 went ok also. I did not quite go step-by-step because I wanted to wire up what was down near the chassis before I installed the flyback transformer. It was much easier to do it that way. All I have left is to wire up the HV lead to the CRT and the power cord.

Here are some pics.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psetttb0ax.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psu61n1ywj.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5r3wiosy.jpg

Here is the HV lead going to the CRT. I used some 20KV wire and a connector and boot from an old color portable TV gotten free from the curb. I replaced the 40KV wire with my 20KV wire and put the 470K resistor in line like the instruction sheet had shown. I double heat shrunk the whole assembly. I also replaced the 20awg standard hook up wire from the 1X2A rectifier tube to the door knob capacitor because it was carrying full HV with the same 20KV wire. The terminal on the tube socket was also double heat shrunk.

I know the instruction sheet shows the resistor directly connected to the door knob cap connector, but I thought using a small piece of 20KV wire which is stranded, it would hold up better to any movement.

What do you think? I'd prefer that the resistor was hard mounted to some phenolic or terminal strip but it does look like it'll work. I'm including a picture of the portion of the instruction sheet.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psb6rlefsa.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psn9isacas.jpg

Here's is another "kooky" thing about this kit.

They talk about "Insert a polyethylene sleeve over the 1X2 tube and socket." on instruction sheet 6 after all the steps have been completed.

Here are a couple of pics of the supplied sleeve and the note on the instruction sheet.

I'm guessing that the sleeve it there to prevent a shock to service people rather than to prevent arc over. Could be both though.

The sleeve reminds me of the container we used to get aviation spark plugs in. I'm thinking I have to cut the crimped end off and just slide the rest in place. No mention as to how it is secured.

Could I just double heat shrink each tube socket terminal and accomplish the same thing? Is there any other way that I could use?

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psvxungkkn.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psf3iwlar3.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pszpd4cing.jpg

OK, I cut the crimped end off of the sleeve and slid it home. Then I tied it off with some lacing cord. Not as goofy as I thought. It has to be used to prevent arc over because the HV is exposed on the end of the door knob cap.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psktvvl4sa.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psntsua26l.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psbk5ufnbp.jpg

Wahoo!

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psdpx5a20b.jpg

Kinda looks as though it works! Congratulations, nice work.

Thanks KV.

OK, first problem.

I can't get the CRT into good focus. The yoke is pushed all the way forward up on the CRT. This is an aluminized tube so no ION Trap.

HV is shown at 11KV on my unreliable HV probe.

I did notice this statement from the GE datasheet for a 21FP4/A/C, the CRT I'm using is a 21FP4C. It states having a minimum resistance on Pin 6 (Focus) and Pin 10 (Grid 2 B++). See attached photo. This TV does not have a minimum resistance on pin 6. it goes directly to B-. Should I have at least a 100K resistor in there?

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psnfymils1.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psipx8qfr1.jpg

At another persons suggestion, I tried taking pin 6 (Focus) from B- to B+ 130v and to B++ 300V with no joy.

Compliments once again on your outstanding workmanship sir.:yes: But offhand, it seems a minimalist, low-B+ design chassis trying to drive a large CRT is not going to deliver optimum performance, particularly with only 11KV on the anode (if your HV meter is correct).

Try this for a moment.. short out the resistor feeding G2 (screen grid) of the 25CD6 to raise G2 voltage a bit. See if this improves HV, width and focus at all. If it does, it suggests that a higher B+ supply voltage on the H output/damper circuit would improve performance. If it doesn't, then maybe a smaller CRT would work better with this chassis.

All good points!
I would only halve the G2 resistor, another one in parallel.
All the low B+ larger screen sets I worked on, seemed to use a 25DN6 instead of a 25CD6. IIRC, Sylvania designed the tube for that purpose. It looks like the tube in your set is the old style 25CD6G. After the resistor trick, the first thing I would try is a 25DN6. :thmbsp: