I looked over at Antique Electronic Supply (AES) and it seems they actually have the Filter Choke I need for the Power Supply on the TV.

The Specs given in the Sam's Folder is 1.5 Henries .200 ADC, which I'm assuming .200 A is the same as 200mA which if that's the case AES has a version of that particular Filter Choke in stock and its only $15, the only difference is that the ones AES has are rated at 56 Ohms rather than 32 Ohms like the original which I would think that wouldn't matter too much.

Its checking infinite on both wire leads, not just one of them, I rechecked my work.

A Hammond #156R should do the trick. As far as intermittent resistance to ground, it's very possible the insulation is breaking down under presence of high voltage, then acting flaky without. If it were my set I'd probably be temporarily tacking in a large wattage 50 ohm resistor to replace the choke and continue to trouble shoot. Ideally you should be bringing up the AC voltage slowly with a variac, or at minimum a dim bulb tester while monitoring the power supply voltage. Highly unlikely your out of the woods, but it's a great start!

If if consistantly reading infinity, and 27 ohm between the leads it's fine. And the reading on the LCR meter are in spec. If it was shorted the LCR reading would be way off . So I'd say that you've ruled it out as a potential problem.

Yes, what Kevin said is dead on. There could be a insulation breakdown that shows up with the higer voltages.

I actually do have a variac but its currently not wired up, as it needs a box or something to be installed in and then an outlet wired up to it and a cord as well. (it was a variac that was inside a console style cabinet originally as part of a speed control on a milling machine of some sort).

A quick way to find out would be to resolder the input lead, but leave the output lead disconnected.

That's what I was thinking as well.
I will more than likely order a new Filter Choke from AES and install that into the TV and see if that doesn't do the trick.

https://www.tubesandmore.com/product...d-open-bracket

So will the Filter Choke in the link above work, the one that's labeled 1.5 Henry and 200 mA?

which one is the input lead and which one is the output lead?
I'm assuming the input lead is the one that's connected to the white wire that was coming off pin 2 of the 5U4 tube socket?

It will be the one that is connected to the filter cap + lead that is connected to the 5U4.

Edit: yes pin 2

Yes the white wire that should now be connected to the plus side of C1A.

OK so I tried what you said and also swapped out the rectifier tube with a NOS one and the tube didn't arc, so I tried hooking up the second lead and turned on, and the tv the tube still didn't arc but something smoked on the bottom of the TV right around one of the IF cans but what's weird is that none of the parts where it looked like the smoke was coming from looked toasty (unless the IF can itself was cooked), so going by that information it does seem that the Filter Choke is bad.

Their part number P-T156R should be fine. If the mounting spacing is off you may need to drill a new hole.

Not necessarily, a short to ground in the choke would not cause a component down stream from it to smoke. You could have a paper power supply bypass cap that's leaky or shorted, which generally will smoke a resistor feeding voltage to that circuit. In some cases it could be a coil. Can you post a picture showing the area the smoke came from?

Chokes are non-polarized and there is no such thing as connecting it backwards.

Only tubes, diodes, transistors, and electrolytic capacitors are polarized.

Most likely the smoke around the IF can was caused by bad wax paper cap that's drawing excessive current. All of those wax paper caps are leaking and it they are leaking enough they will smoke, or cook something in the circuit they are connected to.
My own guess is the choke is fine, but if you are putting in a parts order it might be nice to have a spare on hand. I would be looking ahead of the the choke.

What did the smoke smell like? Burnt wax, hot bakelite ?

See Picture below for where the magic smoke came from.

The weird thing is that when whatever smoked smoked it didn't have any sort of burnt smell or any other smell for that matter, it was odorless.

There are some paper caps tied into the power supply on the AC side both of which are tied to ground on one end. Could those be the cause of the issues I'm having?

Could have been releasing steam more than smoke.
I doubt than one of those wax paper caps are good. And those electrolytics on the bottom right are probably leaking as well.
It would be better in a lot of ways to change all those caps as they are going to need to be done if you want any kind of reliabilty out of the tv, and furthermore they are likely to send you on a wild goose chase dignosing the probems.
I've had many sets that run ok with the old caps in place for the first 5 or 10 minutes and then everything starts to fail , the vertical starts to shrink, or the high voltage and horizontal drops or completely quits working. It's easier to change all of these and you have a fresh start and you have the caps out of the way of potential problems.
Plus it can simplify diagnosing a set because you won't have multiple issues caused by bad capacitors. This is especially important when you are new to tv's.
The last thing you want is to cook a transformer or a IF can or the flyback, as these can be the hardest parts to get ahold of .

Agree all the paper and electrolytic caps need to be replaced. Take a look at R50, it's suppose to be 1k ohm and feeds B+ to the 1st sound IF stage. C49 (.02uf)is the stages decoupling. Good chance C49 is leaking current to ground and overheated R50.



https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...6592358a_z.jpg

Not the cause of your problems. But they are subject to blowing up if not replaced with some specified for across the AC line or line to neutral, such as these. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...5SnxDEDw%3D%3D

I would like to replace all those capacitors at once but I just recently bought a new (to me) car and I now have car payments and I was just dropped down to 2 days a week at work so now my paychecks are going to be a little bit smaller than they have been.
So I'm going to have to hold off on ordering the capacitors for right now (until I have made my first car payment and my other expenses come out which will probably only leave me with about $30 left which won't be enough to get the 20+ capacitors I need to recap this TV).
Unless someone here has some spare capacitors they could send me.

I will definitely check C49 and R50.

Ok, so a little update, I replaced the resistor and capacitor you guys mentioned were probably responsible for the smoke earlier and also a couple other capacitors nearby that I had on hand and I managed to get the tube to stop arcing and the current draw down to 3 amps from the previous 8 amps that it was drawing before.

So I think we're making some progress.:thmbsp::yes::scratch2:

3 amps is still pretty high but much better than 8. That's for sure.

Just out of curiosity, how many DC volts do you measure from pin 2 of the 5U4 to ground? And from pin 5 of the 6W4 to ground? Before measuring take a look at the voltage chart(page 8) in your Sams so you have an idea of what to expect.

I'm assuming the set will be powered up for this procedure?
Also will the tubes be removed for this or are they still in the sockets?

Also I did figure out why the fuse wasn't blowing from the excessive current draw, somone at some point in time replaced the original 5 amp fuse with a 10 amp automotive fuse...:scratch2::nono::thumbsdn:

Yes powered on with tubes in sockets.

Would almost make me wonder if there was some issue years ago that was causing the fuse to blow and that's why they quit using it.
Mind you it could have been replaced more recently by someone plugging it in to see if it worked so that they could as more for it on ebay.....

OK well a little problem, when I was replacing some of the capacitors I replaced a couple of .05 MFD capacitors with what I thought were some .047 MFD capacitors but then when I looked at the code on it again I realized it said 472 rather than 473 on it so right now I really can't power on the TV because of it having the wrong value of capacitors in a couple of spots.

I do have a list of the capacitors I need though drawn up, including the electrolytics I didn't replace yet, and interestingly enough this TV uses all of the basic capacitor values like .1, .01, .047, .0047, and .033 (which actually the last one is .035 but .033 will work fine I in its place I think).

Well actually now that you mention it, on the bottom side of the TV chassis by the High Voltage Cage there appears to be a huge char mark on the chassis like maybe something caught fire under there or something but I'm not sure.

Before investing further effort and $$ in that set, it'd be advisable to check the no-load current draw of the power xfmr, considering the xfmr has a history of being brutalized over and over.

Remove all the tubes (except HV rect), disconnect CRT from its socket, power up and measure AC current draw from the wall. This 'idle' current should be very low. If it's excessive, suspect some cooked windings in the xfmr.

Yes agreed this would be a excellent plan.
Lets hope that the flyback isn't cooked.:yes:

The fly shouldn't be affected since it was not in the current path of the B+ short.

OK, that's easy enough to do.

Well the only problem is, that as I pointed out in a previous post I have accidentally replaced two .05 MFD capacitors with 2 .0047 MFD capacitors because I misread the capacitor code on the outside of the capacitors, which I thought they said 473K on them but then after I installed them in the TV set I looked at the code marker again and saw that it actually said 472K not 473K like I thought it did.
So I have two capacitors in the TV that are outside of the tolerance rating of the original capacitors so I'm afraid to power it up until I get those capacitors replaced with the correct value capacitors which I currently don't have any .047 MFD 630 VDC capacitors in my capacitor stash.

I don't want to order anything yet unless I can make a full order and I can't do that until I know this thing is going to be worth my time ordering the rest of the capacitors I need to finish the job and I don't want to put an order in for just two capacitors because that's a waste.

Does anyone have a couple of .047 MFD 630 VDC film capacitors that they could spare?

The test he suggests (pull every tube and power up for a current measurement) will work accurately no matter what capacitance you installed for paper caps...Basically, there will be no tubes to put signal into or take signal out of those caps, there won't even be B+ voltage anywhere...THe only part that should be energized is the power transformer...You could probably glue a pair of leads to a rock, solder that in place of the caps your scared of and not have it do harm or affect the results of the suggested test.

The point here is to verify the expensive/rare power transformer does not have an internal short/current leakage (read that verify the trans ain't ruined). If it don't draw too much current order all the caps when you have the dough, if it draws too much current shelve the set for a few months till you can track down a good transformer or kick it down the road to its next owner.

OK thanks that's what I wanted to know. I'll proceed with the test then, since I don't actually have to fear ruining the set with the wrong value capacitors in it with this test, that was my main concern.

To put things into perspective for you, powering the set with all those original leaky paper and electrolytic caps has been much more risky than if you powered it with the two off-value new caps installed.

OK so a little update, I powered on the set with all but the H. V. Rectifier tube removed from the TV and the TV's current draw leveled out at about .39 Amps or 7.3 watts according to my Kill-A-Watt Meter, which is fairly low.

So I'm guessing that the transformer is actually fine yet and my problem is just a bunch of paper caps that have shorted to ground somewhere in the TV (more than likely the two .01 MFD caps on the AC line for noise supression are the ones to blame because they are soldered to ground on one side and if they've shorted, they've more than likely shorted to ground.)