While I wait for a free weekend for my friend to help with the cataract repair, I have been working on the cabinet the best I can, UI have no exp in wood working, so there is little i can do, and there is a nickle sized hole in the veneer on the top i cant fix, but i have done the best i can so far.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0628231929.jpg

What fixed the lack of contrast range?

The date is now set for the attempt to fix the cataract which will be next Sunday 7/23.

has anyone else done these rectangle types with the RCA type bonded safety glass before?

it's due to be another 100+ day that day, gonna start by leaving in the blazing sun for a while, but still worried about this one, being a rectangle type.

I will be watching carefully, this thread. I have an RCA CTC-28 with a weak CRT and a new rebuilt Channel Master CRT... which has cataracts unfortunately. I live in Florida so sun should not be an issue!

now I know the type of tube in the set!

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0722231253a.jpg

I think the date code is 1969 :o

My original tube is a 25XP22. My replacement is a Channel Master 25AP22 and according to the cross reference, that is the proper sub. Fingers crossed...

Cataract repair successful!!! :banana::D

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0723231535.jpg
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0723231648b.jpg

Thus was a LOT easier than expected, after an hour in the sun, and sticking spudgers in under the safety glass, it almost came off on it's own W/O hardly any need of the heat gun.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0723231651.jpg
gunk came right off.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0723231748.jpg
glass back on
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0723231916.jpg

tube back in
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0723232206a.jpg
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0723232206b.jpg

hard part is over!

Looks great! Now, I have to get off of my fat @$$ and work on my tube.

Now, all that's left to do is to get everything all back together and bolted down, chassis & tuner ETC, and get all wires tied back where they were, get the set to where it's going to be finally kept, and do final fine adjustments when it's there.

latest video.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0811232252.mp4

pretty much done.

tuner and chassis back in

minor adjustments left when moved to final location, Height /lin
the color echo is still there, but not much I can do about it, I dont have the tools to do a bandpass alignment

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0821232202.jpg

Maggie moved nest to the Hoffman Colorcaster television.

Will do final adjustments this weekend.

As I expected, rotating the set at a right angle to move it to it's final location made a slight change in the convergence alignment, not so much with purity however, spent over 2 hours going round and round with the convergence to get it close as I could, still not perfect, never is, problems as always on the right side, un-even lines that refuse to line up, I have NOT changed the diodes on the convergence PCB yet, that may be the reason, will most likely replace them with Mouser part 637-MUR160.

The slight color shadowing is still there, barely noticeable, but there, may look into that at a future date.
One thing that makes this set even MORE oddball is it does not have an AFT defeat switch as shown on the SAMS, but has a 2nd weird color switch, I wish it did have the AFT defeat switch, cause it's rather annoying.

The auto color switch is the AFT defeat switch.

Unfortunately, I don't have a B&K 415, or really exp with one. :(
I did play with a Heathkit IG-57A in HS, but it was built by an amateur and I'm sure it did not work correctly.
I could no doubt use one, cause I have sets that could benefit from alignments.
The Magnavox T933 for example, as mentioned the color shadow is most likely from a chroma bandpass problem, adjusting the 4.5 MHz trap has only a slight impact on it, what seems to have the biggest effect is to turn color to max, tune to max color w/o interference (oversaturation), and then pull back on color killer to minimize color with color cont at max, this does not get rid of the shadow completely, but greatly reduces it to where it is hardly noticeable.

This damn Maggotbox has a strange habit of refusing to turn on with any color lock once in a while, just rainbow screen, like the burst amp had failed or something. I don't like the tube they use, 6ke8 seems very unstable, then suddenly it starts working again, solid as a rock.

perhaps I should get MORE than just the 2 6ke8 tubes to try in it?

to see what makes it happy all the time?

Oh, these intermittent PITA issues... if this tube don't reached audiophile prices, is worth to try.

Looks like I'm not the only one who has been though the Maggie hell! :tears:

http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=269466

It's still tending to act up sometimes, turned it on last night, color came on OK, then after 10 min, barber pole effect was back for 30-90 sec, then it locked in again for the rest of the night.

On / off a few times, stayed locked.
Very annoying.

MORE NOS tubes on the way,
2x 6KE8s (burst amp / color killer ) , for a total of 4, 1 original, 3 nos, ( no sub listed for this )
Yet another 6GH8A , used in 2 areas ( 3.58 osc & cont / chroma bandpass & horz blanking) I already have many of these.

Other suspect, 6LM8 (video cathode follower-chroma sync amp / 1st video amp) 2 on hand, original , 1 NOS, it's stated that 6GH8A is a direct replacement, but not sure how this silly thing will react to it.
Will just have wait for the new tubes and play musical chairs with tubes to see if anything changes.

It works MOST of the time, but the 10-15% of time that it does NOT, is aggravating! :tears:

I'm not sure if this is of any help or not, but it sounds almost like your TV is electrically similar to my 1968 Sylvania Color TV that I'm currently restoring and my Sylvania TV is having similar issues to your TV (barber poleing, color not locking in correctly, etc) and the interesting thing is that my TV has no paper caps in it to speak of mainly mylar or ceramic disc caps, and a lot of carbon comp resistors, of which the 1/2W or smaller carbon comp resistors all measure within specs yet, but the 1W or higher carbon comp resistors all measured 10%+ high, and I've also replaced many tubes in my TV and still have issues similar to your TV, but I think the issue might be mainly related to the resistors that have drifted high, I'm not sure if that might be the case with your TV but it might be worth looking into.

:banana::D:thmbsp:

HA!
I caught it this time!
ran it for a few hours, the first hour no problem..
then it did it again. :tears:
shut out all lights took a look REAL close, V22 was out cold! (6KE8 burst amp / color killer ) , wiggle tube, lit up again, color came back! dirty socket? perhaps?

I did clean them, perhaps it's being stubborn!

Or the PCB ground lugs to the main chassis.

Zeno:smoke:

Those were touched up, and looking at the diagrams, the ground traces to that area would have impacted substantially more than just the loss of color sync if that area lost it's ground, so far it seems that it is just V22 losing heater power due to a weak / socket connection, or a missed broken solder joint under it.
But , at least now I know the source of the annoyance!:D

That's good to hear, now I know what to look out for on my Sylvania TV that I'm restoring when I start losing color and what not, because like I said my TV is more or less a copy of your TV (an RCA Clone perhaps?) more or less the same tube complement.

It's not exactly an RCA clone, I DO see some RCA in it, but also some Motorola and perhaps even some Zenith, it's like they took some from all, and headed out in their own direction.

Interesting, I'm kind of surprised that's the case, so I wonder if Sylvania did the same thing then because when I was following your thread I saw a lot of similarities between your TV and my Sylvania I've been working on, although I guess that wouldn't be too surprising if that was the case considering Magnavox and Sylvania both ended up getting eaten up by North American Philips in the 1980s... :scratch2:

This set is sort of like the the RCA-CTC 20 with the cathode follower after the video det, but uses a demod I have not seen in RCA before, but does seem to have the RCA color ref osc and horz circuit.

Interesting. Can you post a schematic of the demods?

I will later tonight when I'm home, at work, I'm limited with what i can do. :tears:

Darned work! Always getting in the way! :D

Here it is! :P

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/maggie-video.jpg
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/maggie-color.jpg

The video section really does remind me of the CTC-20 :O

The demods and color difference amps are very much like RCA too, except for using the 6MK8 dual pentode instead of separate X and Z demod sections.

Would have to do a detailed analysis to see if they had different color difference gains and angles than RCA.

Well people were blasting the "crappy Chroma demoduator" used in the "magget box" When I posted about this on FB vintage TV forum, with stuff like ," I hated the Magnavox tube sets! Chroma demoduator was crap, could not get good flesh tones."

I cant really say, but i DO like the CTC-16XL better, and this is the only and first set i have seen using a 6MK8. :scratch2:

Yes they had that reputation. There is a switch we called the brownuator SW.
If on it gives gives a brown cast to the color.You have to also watch the
plate resistors to the demods. Motorolas & Sylvanias too ! Bottom line
is turn off the auto color switches, AFT is the only one to use IMHO.

To be fair Zenith did something similar. Early " Custom" series sets
( 9-181 main board ) that replaced the S3 ( 9-160) had a puky orange pix.
Then better sets came out & had a great pix. A few minutes in the
manuals gave the reason. Better sets had auto color, cheap sets did not !
Turning off the auto color gave the good pix, turning it on gave the orange
pix. So from that point on we modified every one without auto color we sold
& the pix was as good as any.
Told the Boston service rep about it & he told me "this conversation never
happened" and DONT tell Chicago !

enuf fer now
Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

Do you mean the cheap sets had no switch but had autocolor permanently on?

Exactly ! Cheap sets it was always on, better sets had a SW to turn it off.
IIRC it used a Hitachi IC & the same era Hitachis had a displeasing color palette
also. IIRC the original IC was a 221-### later was a 221-###-01
and the color problem went away.

Zeno

So far, knock on semi-fake wood, the Maggie has been behaving after the tube wiggle, I try it about twice a week, and so far, the loss of color sync has not come back, weird!

Dare I put the back cove on it and tempt fate! :O

I have finally found the source of the loss of picture (brightness ) that happens once in a very great while with this set, all this time I have been keeping the back off in hopes of nailing it down, this week I did, the brightness pot, R2 is on the front, like the color and and volume, but unlike being hard wired in the RCA and GE sets that amused bandersen a bit, :) this one can be unplugged, and THAT is the source of the problem, weak connection in PL3, the connector to the brightness pot on the front, I DID clean them, but this one is still giving me trouble, when I lose picture, I grab the wire, move it a bit, and it comes back.

Its not uncommon for the pins in the plug that have wires in them to develop bad solder joints...It's especially common in CRT heater pins to the point that they made a special repair tool to crimp the pin onto the wire...If there isn't a service reason to have it unplug you could hard wire it...last year I had to hard wire one terminal of the chromatic switch socket because it was less of a PITA than replacing the whole thing (not like I had a replacement either).

Just replaced the 150K ohm in my Maggie T-933. It went up to almost 300K ohm.
Back on and bright picture and terrible retrace. Loose 6LM8. Pushed it back in and good picture and vertical again.
Like you said, "Maggie Hell".
When I get a chance I'm going to check the 100K resistors in the back control board. Just don't trust them..

R101? Yeah, I replaced that w/o question cause I knew it would be bad, along with R85 & R108, a spot check of other resistors in the set found that others were still good.