The one that doesn't have any wire wrapped around it.

I believe that I found pin 6's connection to chassis, please confirm that I'm correct here:

http://antiqueradio.org/art/predicta16.jpg

Now, just have to figure out where the other wire goes. I swear that I noted this somewhere, but the set's been apart for two months now, and I can't find anything I might have written.

I think you have the CRT pin numbering off a little. Pins 2&6 are connected internally to the focus element. Pin 7 is the cathode which connects to the video output.

Page 17 of the Sams Photofact shows how the wires connect to the main board. That's what they call "CircuiTrace Numbers". #20 goes to the cathode of the CRT (pin 7 not 6). That's what you have labelled as "CRT lead"

The last wire should end in a spade terminal. There are two possible places for it to connect on a little terminal strip in the center of the chassis. If all else fails, you can just leave it disconnected. The CRT may be a little out of focus but will work.

I found the wire, finally. It came unsoldered from one of the chassis plugs.......d'oh.

Now that the weather is FINALLY warmer, I started work on the cabinet.

I found the thermistor disc while cleaning out the cabinet. I wonder how many sets were retired because the disc fell out ?
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7121/...b27e7a7a_z.jpg

The sides and front are in pretty good shape.
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2920/...3f344893_c.jpg

I figure they used a metal mesh bottom for ventilation.
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2916/...b69bda0a_c.jpg

I'll try to touch up all the nicks and dings.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3701/...a349c1bf_c.jpg

Legs and bottom removed.
It may looks like real mahogany, but I'm pretty sure it's poplar painted red.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7424/...85d93dae_c.jpg

Fully disassembled cabinet. I made an attempt to touch up the large area of finish loss on top, but it looks terrible.
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2926/...4abd49ba_c.jpg

So off it comes. Much was scrapped off and liquid stripped used in the stubborn areas.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3720/...5b1b065f_c.jpg

New paper veneer prepared. I coated both surfaces with TiteBond Wood Glue and allow to dry.

This particular glue can be reactivated with heat for seven days.
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2903/...5b37e151_c.jpg

Not bad, but I might give it another try. This veneer is so thin that any defect, including variation in glue thickness, is telegraphed onto the surface. It's so thin that they can;t be sanded out.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3721/...25f4c3b4_c.jpg

Finally, after a little Brown Mahogany Mohawk toner. It's a little darker and redder than the original but not bad. If I were to do it again, I'd try Prefect Brown toner instead.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7219/...a7fe38df_c.jpg

As for the sides, a little light sanding with 400 grit and a fresh coat of lacquer works well. No issues with finish compatibility.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7243/...2db989e8_z.jpg https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7211/...9e9e017f_z.jpg

Switching gears a little to the antenna. All this set had left when I got it was the plastic base. A few months back I came across this great ARF thread on fabricating one using salvaged rabbit ears.

Luckily, I have more of mine left and just need a replacement telescoping rod. Eventually, I managed to find one and it's a perfect fit :)

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7306/...89b5c3cd_c.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7121/...922b27aa_c.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7315/...7fb963b5_c.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7210/...1fb83177_c.jpg

Looking mighty fine. :thmbsp:

I tried your suggested and it works perfectly :) Only downside is the cap now retains a charge for a long time. I suppose I could add a high value bleeder resistor across it.

I stripped and refinished the front edge and I think it's as good as I'm going to get without mixing my own custom lacquer dye.

Next up, a little clear coat.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5095/...0dc39b86_z.jpg https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5053/...0056a1bd_z.jpg

A 100 K. 1 watt should help quite a bit.

rrrhre2s

That is looking really nice, Bob.

Another note, regarding the bad thermistor: I had a bad one in an RCA CTC-16 combo chassis. One wire was broken off, and the other one came off as I tried to fix the first side. However, I was able to scrape both sides of the disc and find usable "good" spots that would accept solder. So, I was able to repair it, and it has been fine for several years (though I have not watched the set for, say, three hours straight or anything). It might be worth trying that trick on yours.

I did some searching around and found another source for replacement Predicta antenna rods - Zenith Chromantennas. Apologies to any Chromantenna fans.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7322/...3d6d644d_z.jpg

Here are the patients with broken or missing rods.
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2898/...2c0ce49b_z.jpg

Here's the inside of the Chromantenna.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5031/...1372b6df_z.jpg

I used a Dremel tool with cutoff wheel to carefully cut the plastic rod supports out. Then a sharp utility knife to trim off the support ribs around the cylinders.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7057/...5fecaec2_z.jpg

The diameter is perfect, but they have a beveled shoulder while the originals are right angles. They will still work as is, but not fit quite as snuggly. I suppose they could be squared up with a file.

The newer plastic (mid 70s ?) is not as strong as the late 50s stuff but should hold up OK.
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2938/...69219119_z.jpg

I should also point out that these will not collapse inside like the originals did. There will always but about a foot sticking out.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5321/...91413762_z.jpg

Here's the cabinet back together. I removed the rust from the legs which also took off any remaining trace of the brass plating so they look like bare steel now.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7450/...672ce1e8_z.jpg

A few years ago I picked up a Caswell brass plating kit and also one from AES. Might as well give them a try...

First up, the Caswell kit. This is a brush system where you dip a positive "wand" into a plating solution and rub it against a negative item to be plated.
Rather than use the little wall wart power supply it came with, I'm using an HP bench supply with voltage and current limiting set to about 12 volts and 1/2 amp.

Just as when I've used it before, the results look dark and irregular. Buffing will take care of that.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7403/...ed221174_z.jpg

Hmm. After a few passes it barely has any brass color.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7301/...3679ec85_z.jpg

Time to try the stuff from AES. Wow! This stuff is great! It immediately turns a lovely gold/brass color.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5196/...fbd2b44c_z.jpg

Must be the Potassium Cyanide :thmbsp:
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7436/...6fcdd0da_z.jpg

Here are the final results after a few passes and polishing. Note that after remove the rust, the metal has lots of little pits which I did not attempt to grind out. Even so, I think they look 100% better.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5198/...7ec83f80_z.jpg

I sprayed them with a light coat of clear lacquer and mounted on the cabinet.
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2929/...9bcf247f_z.jpg

Finally, here's a preview of the assembled set minus the CRT. I'm waiting on some new tubes from ESRC then I'll perform an alignment and put it all together.
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2897/...49b327e0_b.jpg

I forgot to mention that ESRC is having a dollar sale on TV tubes that ends soon. Stock up while it lasts: http://www.esrcvacuumtubes.com/dollar_days.html

Here's the electroplating solution from AES. You will need the brush and a DC power supply too. http://www.tubesandmore.com/products/S-F222

Looks great Bob! :thmbsp: