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well I will try one last time since you answered the question.
the 11.5 is where the blue lead for the yoke should go it is the bottom of the fly. aka point D on SB's photo. the 10.5 is point E in the photo. |
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11.5 is the bottom of the fly ELECTRICLY REPEAT ELECTRICLY, ONE MORE TIME ELECTRICLY.
this is where the blue lead from the yoke should be connected. if it is then fine. look at the schematic to you see the bottom of the fly, that is the ELECTRIC bottom of the fly. I dont know how to be more clear on this. |
if you are saying you have it hooked up right, blue lead the the ELECTRIC bottom of the fly then I can offer no more insights other than making sure the focus coil is ELECTRICLY connected right. I am not sure if that could mess with the boost voltage enough to screw up the bias voltage to the shunt.
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OH, ok, my mistake...
Timmy, you may have to just make a map with resistance readings like the diagram I posted.... From Bill's picture I can't see all the wires, Only people familiar with this set like you and others not me know what this looks like.... . |
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look, you have to connect the yoke blue lead (boost) to the 11.5 ohm lug. THEN you have to hook up the focus coil CORRECTLY.
If you are worried about burning things up, just put the meter in the cathode of the horz out and keep an eye on the current, if it starts to go north of 210 pull the plug. Good thing about tubes is they are not instant. Quit looking at the numbers on the Sams, hook up the coils ELECTRICLY correct per the schematic on the focus coil the the ELECTRICLY correct fly terminals. |
You should be very careful before committing to moving any wires....
You need to get more pictures of this either from Bill, someone else, check the other tv you have, I got several schematics off the internet a lot of the ctc 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15's look a lot alike in the flyback area..... . |
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It is NOT connected correctly IF you reversed the fly lugs. the two ELECTRICLY speaking bottom lugs connect to the focus coil (D and E on SB's photo).
You just have to figure out which lug is which between the schematic and the coil and connect it right ELECTRICLY. |
so if i am going to put the boost to the 11.5 well then it was correct all along except it was not the bottom, on this fly its the one above that checks 11.5 not the bottom.lol,lol........
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look timmy, the schematic says the blue yoke lead (boost)goes the the lead that is the most distant from the horz out lead correct? yes or no?
Now if that is yes and you get 10.5 on one lug and 11.5 on the other RELATIVE to the horz out lead, which do you think is the most distant? the 10.5 or the 11.5? just answer that, then I will respond with the next in the logical sequence. I just want to make sure the fly is hooked up right. |
Well if your ohm meter has the resolution...
A to D should be higher ohms than A to E that is one way of identifying point E It has the higher resistance when measured from point A. See the center tap Point E It's closer to A. . |
Dave what are you thinking about A to F ??
Would that be the farthest from point A ??? If it's just between D and E then forget it. . |
B to D = 11.5 per timmy I think, if so D is the boost/yoke/shunt reg
B to E = 10.5 per timmy I think, if so E is the one that goes to the focus lug 2 |
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ok so that is the one that is the boost/yoke/shunt etc..
now the other one the 10.5 is the one that goes the the electric lug 2 of the focus coil, do you agree that it is the next one up (ELECTRICLY) from the boost per the schematic? do you follow this, does what I say make sence when you look at the schematic now? disregarding the number or physical location of the lower two lugs on the fly? |
yes i agree that one measured 10.5 next up higher little less ohms and yes lug 2 of the f coil.
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Hey !
You other 15 people watchin' ! Yah you ! We doin the right thing here ! ! ??? Any of ya got pictures of these connections yer willing to put up....? . |
:smoke::smoke::smoke:
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ok so you have the blue lead from the yoke and the #1 of the focus coil to the 11.5 fly lug
the 10.5 fly lug is connected to the #2 of the focus coil. Nothing else is on the 10.5 fly lug correct? is that correct? |
hey squirrel boy what part of orange county are from?
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Pine Bush / Montgomery.
2 minor specs on the map.. . |
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I'm sorry.......... You should get him out before any real damage is done....
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per the schematic with the now correct understanding of which is the correct lugs of the fly? |
yes i think so here goes, the lead that is supposed to be the boost and the blue wire from the yoke i have to put it on the other leg that measures 11.5 and then wire the f coil the right way, which would be just reversing 2 connections on the f coil, am i correct ?
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you have to look at it, I am not there so I do not know, just wire it according to the schematic now that you know the correct lug PER the schmatic. But I would guess yes you need to reverse the focus 1 and 2 since you orig had the fly wired backwards.
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:Dwell i have to take a break i need to bring my son to his mom in PINEBUSH.......
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11.5 goes to boost/yoke and lug 1 of F coil
10.5 goes to lug 2 only of F coil |
~~~ I guess were going to have a bit of an intermission now ~~~~
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I got the pop corn out.
Timmy are you sure you have the lugs identified correctly on the focus coil? there should have been a paper with instructions on it. generally the 1st lug clockwise of the red dot is 1, then continue clockwise for the rest. there is generally a ref dot of paint to make sure you have it oriented correctly. then you still should use the paper instructions, they tell which goes to boost, which goes to the 130 pf cap etc... |
when you feel like you have it all correct do the following:
Before power up get the HV prob setup and in place. have the horz out cathode meter in place to read the current have the diddle stick in the eff coil ready to adjust reset the HV pot to mid range. check for any loose wires or solder blobs check the wiring again. have a B+ meter on the B+ 400v test point on the chroma board. make sure all the cap leads (horz out, shunt tube) are in place make sure the convergence board is plugged in make sure the CRT anode is attached and will not fall out from the HV prob. all tubes in sockets, CRT socket attached, kids/pets all accounted for... power on: check B+ should come right up to 400+ maybe spike higher until tubes warm up. watch the horz out cathode current, should rise to about 200ma, if it goes over 210ma unplug set. watch for smoke hopefully you will hear the crackle of the HV and you will be able to set it up correctly with the HV pot now. |
well let me just say that the blue wire boost is to go on the 11.5 lug, and #1 on the f coil ok , but this is where it was, it was on the 11.5 lug all along its just that it was not the bottom wire so i really cant move anything because i can move the wire to the bottom lug but that was the 10.5 on the #2 f coil lug. you said it was to go to the lug with the higher ohms and this is what i had explained i think on 2 pages back. and yes i know i was going to take all those precautions. the f coil is numbers 1234 and the miller paper shows it but my coil here has no mark except the mount key so i use the #4 to identify the proper sequence in numbers along with the sams , shows the shape of the lugs on the coil and #4 lug.i am not ignorant but i really am confused.
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