http://www.earlytelevision.org/class..._for_sale.html

The tail end of that page.

Now, the RCA part numbers for the vertical convergence transformer in the Westinghouse and the transformer in the CT-100 are in fact different; the Westinghouse is 241T1 while the CT-100 uses part 3T127.

But, I have a parts catalog that shows them cross-listed as identical. I think it is safe to assume they're the same part; one part number used for OEM transformers in sets built by other manufacturers, one part number for sets built in-house by RCA.

The different part numbers can be accounted for by the fact that in the CT100 the transformer is "potted" in a 5 sided metal box that bolts onto the back of the HV cage. In the Westy, it is just an open frame transformer similar in appearance to a regular vertical output trans.

I wonder why RCA took the trouble to put the transformer in a “box”? Isolation? Did this part fail in the CT-100 as much as the Westy?

No way to know why RCA potted it in a box. Perhaps to better protect it from high humidity or dampness. Failure seems to be across the board in all the sets this trans is installed in. May have been due to defective materials or poor engineering.

Transformer ordered and shipped. Recapping continues, finding poor resistors along the way.

Link: https://visions4netjournal.com/westinghouse/

UPDATE, NOVEMBER 14, 2018, Day 106

From Mike,

“After a brief hiatus, recapping continues. Under the RGB Adders and amp circuits was a big resistance array mounted to terminal strips. This bank of parts prohibits access to the bottom of the chassis where the RGB adders and amp circuits are. After some study I determined that I can disconnect 4 wires that were going from the resistance array down to the RGB circuits and then remove the screws on the mounting plate allowing the entire array to “fold away” and “down” from the part of the chassis that I needed access to.

Picture #1 The new VDC transformer mounted but not yet wired.

Picture #2 Shows my “impossible access” to the capacitors that need replacing.

Picture #3 Shows the assembly pulled away and folded down after disconnecting the 4 wires. Full access to the components is now possible.

Picture #4 All new caps and some new resistors installed.

Picture #5 The assembly re-installed and the wires re-connected.”

https://visions4netjournal.com/wp-co...B11856C4C.jpeg

https://visions4netjournal.com/wp-co...84FC4A38F.jpeg


https://visions4netjournal.com/wp-co...1130550E7.jpeg


Link to restoration page: https://visions4netjournal.com/westinghouse/

Cabinet restoration begins.

https://visions4netjournal.com/wp-co...82A6E4C23.jpeg

Photos> https://visions4netjournal.com/westinghouse/

Incidentally, I just got the unrestored chassis for my H840CK15 in yesterday, and installed it with a dud 15G courtesy of Steve and the ETF Museum.

Mine's pretty much a display piece without a good 15G, but I'm fine with that :)

Chassis number is ME000551. Missing the mask and knobs, I plan on repro-ing the mask and locating knobs when I get a chance. Lower chassis is present, but not photographed.

Incidentally, the chassis came with this interesting brand new transformer. Not sure what it is....

Tim,

That is a reproduction vertical convergence transformer.

You'll have one available if you should ever happen to find a good 15GP22.

Tim,

How do you plan on reproducing that large mask? 3-D printer? I know that Steve McVoy has offered you a mask to use as a template.

-Steve D.

It would be interesting to see the CRT and chassis “on display” thue the glass screen. You could install lighting inside the cabinet.

My plan is to build a large box, and fill it with Plaster of Paris or some such. I'll set the Museum's mask inside (which will be encased in a plastic bag) and when it dries, it'll be a form for a new mask.

Not sure of the material, but I'm thinking a sheet of a form-able plastic or PVC will make up the new part, formed into the mold with a heating apparatus.

May want to apply something like vaseline as a release agent to the original rather than put it in a bag which would likely either add creases to the mold or not fully contour to the face.

I wonder if a vacuform plastic machine would work for making the replacements?

I figured that I could always smooth out any creases with added plaster and a bondo spatula. I'd be a lot more worried about damaging the Museum's loaner by having direct contact with the plaster.

I'll probably make two, just to have one as a spare for someone in the future that may need one. With so few of these in existence I'm likely the only person that would ever need one.....

Doesn't Ben have one of these sets missing its mask too?