Don't ya just love it when you finally find a culprit and changing it brings such a happy surprise! :yes:

the fly looks very orig, I can see no evidence of replacement, I am basing this on how it looks compared to two other CTC-5 chassis that I have (and have not done anything with so don't know how they will perform) it has a kinkda grey/green moldy looking tire. Just for the grins I am going to check the B+ under load and see what I am getting. Could not see any difference in solder of the Fly connections either.

yep always good when a change results in positive results. :thmbsp:

123vac at the plug, under load, 403vdc at the fuse.

No wonder you're making more HV, you're putting in too much power at the AC side. Turn down the power to 117 VAC, then tell me how much HV you end up making... You'll be struggling just like the rest of us. That also explains why your fly is getting warm, I can run mine for hours on end and it's not even thinking of heating up.

This is why I'm in favor of modifying the chassis for more HV, instead of simply cranking up the power at the plug. There has got to be a way to make these things better, without risking the horizontal output transformer.

117 I get 22.5 with the shunt pulled right about 21.5 (my meter is not that fine, but its about 1/2 of a 2.5kv increment) this is with the brightness as below.

will leave it on for a while and see hot hot the fly gets.

after about 1 hr I was still at about 160 at the hottest spot, I think I will stay with plan A and put in the forced air cooling and not sweat the line voltage so much. It did not seem to reduce the heat that much.

just leaning a fan on the back edge of the cage and the yoke, roughly aiming it towards the fly is keeping the temps much lower, I doubt I will hit 125 even with this poor temp arrangement. Yea, a fan is def in order.

You have only 117 volts coming from your outlets? I thought everyone nowadays had 120+ at a wall plug.

'turn down', i.e. use a variac.

mini man, have you tried comparing heat in the fly using different line voltages? in some sets I know this translates into heat, but it does not seem to effect all my sets the same (I this one for example runs hot at 123 and 117 and it does not seem like the 123 is a LOT hotter than the 117, both get too hot after about 45 min to 60min of run time.

I measure them at various spots on the fly with a LED targeted hand held heat sensor.

I use a Variac while working on a set, but once it's finished, that baby gets plugged in the wall. They might have drawn up those schematics using 117 volts, but those sets were designed to work in the real world... where someone's line voltage was likely anything but 117.

Risk your flybacks at your own peril, I can only tell you that for me they have always run much cooler when the AC input voltage was set where the schematic shows- 117 AC. If you don't like the variac because it gets hot, buy an RCA isotap transformer. It has a switch instead, so you can set it and forget it.

Main reason high input voltage is bad is because it causes horizontal output cathode current to rise objectionably high, test and see for yourself. The more voltage goes into the set, the higher it will go. That's why flybacks run hotter why you plug it directly into the wall. More current=more heat, and if you're like me you don't like replacing flybacks from a preventable situation.

well its too hot at 117 or what ever is at the wall so I am going with the fan, with that it will prob not get over 90f (with it right on top of the fly).

I think I will tap the DC off the HOT cathode fuse, just use a couple alligator clips one to the chassis one to the top of the fuse (just need to be sure I don't tap the B+ fuse :D )

made up a cardboard top, cut the hole for the fan right over the fly. The cathode supply voltage at the fuse was not enough to run the fan, so I am back to a 9v battery for now. I only cut an opening on the top for the fan, there are cooling holes on the side but I will prob open up a hole for the air to escape, but for now I am running some temp test.

I will next make up the fan supple from the 6.3v supply, seem like where the tuner connection would be a good place to tap into it.

Check your pile of cast-off wall warts: likely there'll be one that will run the fan. I have several in my collection that will do so and not complain.

I've been following this thread with great interest, as I have a CTC-5N in the works, but have yet to continue (the chassis is re-capped, and has been powered up using load resistors without any trouble:D), and the info here will be invaluable. I'm particularly interested in what is being used to remotely measure the fly temperature, and where to obtain such a device. My CTC-4 fly seems to run hotter than I would like at 117 volts, and maybe I should use a small fan for that one.
Thanks for all the info!
Kevin

good idea, I recall having one that let you select the VDC from like 6v to 12v, I could just run the wires out the back, plug both the TV and the Wallywart into a remote switch (uses a small hand held RF transmitter to turn on) to turn them both on. Side benefit, saves on the stress on the of off switch on the volume control.

this is what I have been using to check temps

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_x_22980004-P_x_x?cm_mmc=ACQ-_-Google-_-enhancedRM-_-22980004&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=22980004&ci_gpa=pl a&ci_kw={keyword}&gclid=CMaZzdrurLUCFQ-ynQodBGQAIA#utm_source=acq&utm_medium=google&utm_c ampaign=enhancedrm&utm_content=22980004

AKA raytek minitemp

Thanks! I'll order one.
Kevin

they are a very handy tool, the LED spot makes it easy to aim.

I just tried another mount, this time I used the same cardboard top, enlarged the opening so I can move the fan around a little. the fan sits on top of a 1" thick piece of soft foam rubber (not real rubber but the kind used in packing stuff). I cut a round opening to fit the fan, but left the foam an oversize square. this lets me move the opening round on top of the cardboard, plus it spaces the fan another inch away from the damping effect of the flyback energy. the foam damps out the sound and does not pass the vibrations (little as they are) from the fan to cardboard. Bottom line is you can barely hear the fan running at all, I actually have to turn the volume down and listen closely to hear it run. Its all gerry rigged up but seems to be working great, Now I just have to find that wally wart and it will be good to go :thmbsp:

12v wallywart, works great, more VDC so I think I can now work on a air filter to put on top of the fan, keep the dust level down...

pics including the rigged fly cage top

one more the obligatory Dorthy close up...

Are you planning to replace the cardboard and foam with metal? I'd be leery about putting anything flammable in my set.

oh yes that is just temp to work out the design. prob make it from copper as its easy to work and solder together.

Man, check out those ruby-red lips..... that's friggin awesome, Dave! :thmbsp: Did you already do an alignment?

Nope to the alignment, I only touched up the chroma matrix using a vectorscope. before that the greens were either brown or blue. It only took a minor tweak but it made all the difference in the world.

I do plan to put the BK 415 on it soon to see if I can get the pic a bit sharper.

I have another CTC-5 that uses the super chassis, has a different chroma chassis that I will also be working on. It also has a 21AXP22 so it should be interesting to see them side by side.

here is a link to the completed Wingate.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FlJ0mmAFU-8

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=awBdl94wvbk


I just found the correct pull knobs for the missing lowers, and thanks to Steve, I have an idea about the escutcheon need. I am going to see if I can find an oversized escutcheon (brass with squar hole) the file to the correct shape as its a very simple shape so I am pretty sure I can get it very close.

Dave,

You should post the photo of the lower Wingate door pulls I sent you. Someone out there may have a complete set from a junked Wingate. Who knows?

-Steve D.

Thanks Steve,

here is what I am looking for. The pulls rings I have found on ebay, but the small backplate is missing from my set

funny thing about that video of the wizard of oz, on my other sets I have the same issue with the tint range, you have to advance it much more toward green to get normal pictures. With other video sources the tint range is much more normal. I don't recall having issues with other DVDs so I assume its not the player but rather the DVD itself. odd....

Here you go. Available on ebay.

http://compare.ebay.com/like/2207251...Types&var=sbar

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200298858825...84.m1497.l2649

this is what I found, maybe that key you linked is two part and I could use the backplate.

On Bob's link I asked them if its two pieces, and if so to get a pic of just the back plate. The pull part I found looks to be identical to the orig. I may just fab up the back plate based on Steve's pic as it does not seem to have any ornate decoration.

A while back, there was a discussion with comparison pictures of various Wizard Of Oz disc versions, and their hues varied quite a bit. If you don't have the newest version that was released a couple of years ago, it might look better than older ones. It certainly looks fantastic on Blu-ray.

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