I think there is a doable reasonable method of achieving front tint control on that model. Drill a hole on the side of the large main chassis, unbolt the tint knob shaft and linkage on the back of the sub chassis, fish the knob shaft end of the flexible linkage through the hole you just made, build an angle bracket to hold the end of the linkage at some practical point under the main chassis with the shaft pointing towards the pencil box controls area, then run a shaft extension from the pencil box area all the way back to that bracket you made somewhere mid under chassis. The flex shaft looks a bit short so where you put the hole and bracket will probably need carefull planning...you may also need to put a universal flex joint (just like on some of the original under chassis shaft extensions) between the the extension shaft and the shaft on the original flex shaft if the mounting arrangement causes them to meet at an angle.






I recently had reason to do a power relay mod similar to yours (and found a better way to do it) on an audio console I was souping up. I don't like those exposed above chassis relay treminals, and found a nice way of eliminating them in my work....They still make relays with octal bases on them for industrial automation (I think they use a different name than octal). I took the back shell from an eye tube socket from a scrapped radio console and an octal socket that the shell fits and put my connections inside the shell with the relay unplugged it looks like an eye tube socket and with the relay connected it still looks much more like a stock part of the set. For those curious: the console had a switched outlet that was getting extra load in the course of fixing the tuner chassis I had to change the power control pot and beefed up it's switch. However the original design did not allow the record changer to control the power of the chassis...I wanted the phono's power switch to have logical OR behavior with the chassis power switch without forcing the phono to spin if the radio was on and the easiest way (a safest for the phono switch) to implement it was a 115V relay coil in parallel with the phono motor with it's contacts inparallel with the chassis power switch.
Photo graphic summary: this is safer and better looking
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Than this:
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My initial thought was to unfasten the hue control from the chassis bracket and simply let the cable drop down to the bottom of the cabinet and fasten it to the inside of the cabinet. No holes on the side of the cabinet!! The cable looks to be about 15 inches long. There is sufficient room for the hand to reach the control if it’s long enough. I think I’d still need a mirror and we would have to unfasten the mount every time we pull the chassis.

I decided not to drill a hole in the pencil box because it would alter the physical appearance. The control could easily be replaced to its original position for purest collectors.

We placed the restored cabinet in the room anticipating the gymnastics of adjusting the hue control. :-)

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I never suggested adding holes to the cabinet.

Infact you could bring the control into the pencil box without adding a hole in the pencil box...Just remove one of the pots in the pencil box, and replace it with a new concentric shaft dual pot with the same resistance on the front element (outer shaft), remove the back element of the new pot and couple it's shaft (inner shaft) to the flexible linkage or a shaft extention going to it as outlined in my last post...There would be no new holes in the cabinet or pencill box, all the original pencil box controls would exist, and hue would be added....

I kind of want to get my own westinghouse to try ths modification on...

.... as in the 21CT55. Persuasive. I know you did not suggest drilling a hole in the side of the cabinet, just for anyone thinking I would do such a thing.

Edit: If you try this, let us know how it worked out. Thanks.

Update, January 18, 2019

Hi Marshall. Now that I have things squared away on the *“mountain tops”*, I am back to the Westy. During the dismantling of the set you might remember that I mentioned a powdered iron core slug that I found in the ventilating screen after removing the chassis. Well, I FOUND OUT where it came from. It came from the Hue control coil (Burst amplifier). I will need to remove the transformer and likely manufacture a new slug assembly for it. The pictures are as follows. 1) and 2) The broken piece that I found. 3) and 4) Shows more cleanup of the top part of the chassis. The deflection yoke has been removed so it can be cleaned and serviced separately. There is still one large axial type capacitor that I need to find and it is seen just above the white wires from the new VDC transformer. 5) and 6) shows the burst amp transformer bottom view and top view that I will need to remove in order to rebuild the iron core that is broken. The 2 horizontal output tubes (6BG6) are separate manufacturers and the date codes are many years apart and they should be replaced with a matched pair. Also, there are 2 damper tubes which by design are 6AX4 type. These are really tubes from the “black and white days” and that is why they used 2 in parallel instead of the usual 1. One has been replaced with a 6AU4 type , which is the “stronger” version of the 6AX4 and was designed for use in the newer color sets that were made after the Westy. Bottom line is, these should also be replaced with a matched pair of 6AU4. I will be purchasing these for replacements before I fire up the chassis to do any further sweep circuit testing. My next steps will be to “look” into the high voltage section and do a lot of work in there. I have already purchased a new matched set of 3 high voltage rectifier tubes for that section. I originally was going to convert these to solid state however I have changed my course of action on that decision for a number of reasons.

Cheers, Mike

*Author: Servicing the various communication repeaters in Mohave County, Arizona.

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More information at this link: https://visions4netjournal.com/westinghouse/

Do you think the slug might have broken due to the constant adjustment of the hue?

Hard to say. It has a sharp break. It could have been there lying on the screen prior to shipping or it broke during shipping.

I think it’s possible that constant adjustment may have weakened it.

Update, February 1, 2019, Day 185

Next! The high voltage cage. I have received the matched pair of 6BG6 JAN (joint army navy) mil spec tubes for the horizontal output stage of the sweep circuit. I still need to find a nice pair of 6AU4 damper tubes to compliment the output tubes but the damper tubes are not as critical as the outputs as far as “matched pairs” go. The focus rectifier tube will be replaced with a solid state selenium type such as what was used in the CTC15 RCA sets. I have purchased a matched set of qty 3 (1B3) rectifier tubes to replace the High Voltage rectifier/tripler set. I will be replacing the capacitors in the high voltage cage and I will be replacing the resistors with modern type film resistors as well. After these restoration procedures I will be ready to start powering up the chassis with the sweep circuits disabled in order to test the individual circuits. I will use an oscilloscope for that process. The signal source will be either antenna TV signals or crosshatch signals from a color generator.

Cheers, Mike.

Go here at the bottom of page for photos. https://visions4netjournal.com/westinghouse/

Mike, I am going through my tubes right now. If I find some 6AU4 NOS tubes, I will get in touch with you. They will be gratis. Just give me a few days, please.

I show 2 6AU4GTA tubes in my inventory but have not found them yet. I moved...

Much appreciated. I’m Marshall, Mike is the tech working on the chassis. I did the cabinet.

Gotcha. Thanks for the update. I have gone through many of my tubes, testing as I go, all "audio" first. I have boxes of tube yet to go through. Some have tatty boxes but as you know, that usually doesn't affect the tube unless subjected to too much moisture.

More to come this week...

Update.

From Mike: “Hi Marshall. I have reached a "pause" in the restoration for now. I got in to the high voltage cage finally and one of the things I discovered was a faulty DC Dynamic Convergence Potentiometer. It is a 50 MEGOHM beast of a pot and of course, it has high voltage on it so it has to be the right part for the job. After doing a bit of research myself, I once again, contacted John Folsom and Bob Galanter. Bob did some research himself after telling me that he had not started his restore on the Westy at his place. He indicated that he will likely need the same component when the time comes for his work. And after my explanation of the failure mode, we agreed that this is a definite "weak spot".He found a place in the UK that makes and sells a 33 Megohm high voltage Pot so I have ordered 10 of them. The cost was not much and I figure I can share the stock with others if necessary. The idea is to add 10 Megohms to each side of the 33 Megohm pot that I am purchasing and hope to find the "center" of the control at "good" convergence. Some mechanical modifications may also be necessary. Let's hope this works.

So, here we goOOOOO.

We are truly going where NO MAN HAS GONE BEFORE.

Cheers, Mike.”

Author: Well the Britt lead turned out to be a bust. No response.

From Mike: “Greetings Marshall. In communicating with Bob Galanter, he sent me a link to a company in the U.K. They have been no help at all. I get a message from them after the "cart checkout" that my address is invalid. I sent the company an email and asked them what I need to do to place the order. That was 3 days ago. I have not heard a word. So that is not looking good.

So, I started thinking real hard again, as I do when I am "stuck". And my thoughts took me in to my earlier days of television repair. By earlier, I mean the 70's. I remembered that the age of solid state was booming and that the high voltage systems had changed dramatically from the 60's and earlier. I then remembered that those sets from the 70's often times implemented ceramic substrate focus controls. BINGO. I did some searches using the simple words "RCA focus control" and "Zenith focus control". And where did I end up, but ebay with a listing for 40 megohm ceramic substrate focus control part number 63-7145. This part, I am almost certain, will work in the position for the Dynamic Convergence Pot which is designated 50 megohms. A very easy adaptation, I think. Let's not get too excited yet, but I bought it and it should arrive in a few days. I have also purchased $$ a number of high voltage resistors of different values to aid me in rebuilding the high voltage circuits where these pots go. I am also going to replace the focus control, although it checks reasonably good. It is buried behind the Convergence pot so I should go ahead and replace it if I can find something of the 70's vintage in the form of a 5 megohm for that position. I have also purchased a 5 megohm 2 watt pot that I think I can modify in case I don't find the real thing in ceramic so I think I have this covered. I am definitely "on" to something here, though, by remembering my days before Palomar. I have not discussed this with Bob yet. I want to get it in the mail and make sure it will work first. I will have to invent a new mounting scheme, but that is really no surprise. The fact that I was able to find ceramic 40 megohm pot for the convergence is a really good thing if it works. It will mean that I can pass this information on to the other people that are working on these sets.

Cheers, and onward!

Mike”

From Mike today: “Greetings Marshall. This is just an update on the attempt to find the parts I need to continue. I received a Zenith component and an RCA component yesterday. I found these on ebay. Neither one is a perfect part for the circuit but they are close. They might be close enough but I won't know until I adapt them in to the chassis and "fire" things up. I am also waiting for one more possible candidate for the convergence pot which is a mid 80s RCA part. When it comes, I will evaluate that one. I shared my "find" of the RCA part that I received yesterday with Bob and he was very optimistic (as I am) that it will work. He was very happy since this may actually help him with his project as well. I have also ordered an assortment of High Voltage resistors of different values which will help me adapt the pots to the circuit. I expect the other RCA part to show up on Monday. I am hopeful that it may possibly be a "better fit for the circuit. I will then have 3 choices to choose from for the next steps. All of this part of the restoration takes place inside the High Voltage cage where the flyback is, so I need to be very careful about my choices of components and the placement of them.

Stay warm.


We keep a wood fire going in the fire place this time of year.

Cheers, Mike”

Author: We are experiencing unusually cold weather near the Phoenix Valley. It snowed in North Scottsdale yesterday! That’s like saying it snowed in Miami. :-)

Preparing for the new pots

Update February 26, 2019

From Mike: UPDATE, FEBRUARY 26, 2019, DAY 210.

“Greetings. I will be moving forward on a plan to install a new Focus pot and a new Convergence pot into the High Voltage cage. My exact plan is not yet in place, but it is close. The following pictures show preliminary steps for the process.

Pix. 1 New caps installed in high voltage cage.
Pix. 2 The old Focus and Convergence pots before removal.
Pix. 3 The old shaft drive system using slots in the fiberglass shafts where they mate with the old pot shafts.
Pix. 4 The slotted shafts that will need to be fitted with shims so that they will mate with the new pots later.
Pix. 5 The shafts with a piece of PVC sheet stock that will be used to make the shims.
Pix. 6 Shafts and new shims.
Pix. 7 Shims installed.
Cheers, Mike”

Go here for full resolution: https://visions4netjournal.com/westinghouse/#

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UPDATE, MARCH 6, 2019, DAY 218 FROM MIKE

Greetings. While I am waiting for more parts for the high voltage cage rebuild, I have taken a step back in order to repair the Burst Amp coil that I previously reported to be broken. I found the iron core in the bottom of the cabinet when I removed the chassis a few months ago. I later learned where the core came from. The powdered iron core was mostly intact and all that was needed was JB Weld Epoxy, and then fine sanding in order to restore its original cylindrical shape. The JB weld worked equally as well on the coil form repair.

Pict. #1 Broken coil assembly
Pict #2 Broken core and bent lead screw
Pict #3 Broken coil form
Pict #4 Repaired and straightened iron core and coil.
Pict #5 The finished coil re-assembled and ready to install in to the chassis

The high voltage cage rebuild will be completed next.

Cheers, Mike

Go here for enlargement images: https://visions4netjournal.com/westi...-carousel-8655

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