I went over that page it don’t show Motorola numbers crossing to miller

Motorola number to miller number

If you are sure that L34 is the problem, it's going to be a real pain to replace because an exact replacement it most likely unobtainable, the best way forward would most likely be to use a replacement coil from an RCA type that uses the same 6GH8A osc circuit, and find a coil that is rather close in resistance to what was in there originally, then compensate for the difference with the secondary components like slight changes in the 15pf cap and or the 27k resistor.
It will take trial and error to get right.

I can get that coil but befor I do I wanted to make sure it matches the Motorola number. I actually don’t need the coil this one is fine just want a spare just in case as I may never need it at this point.

is your color working now?

Yes the color is working great now but if I had noticed certain things early on and had this problem before I would have been better ready to fix this problem from the beginning. It all started with a leg of a cap that was just bearly touching the point G for the afc it grounded a .01 how this moved to create this short I don’t know. Old tv nut had lots of patience but he nailed it when I told him what G was measuring to ground but by that time we went over EVERYTHING.

So, the problem was in the L31 can? :O

It turns out there was no problem in any cans the only confusing thing was checking resistance on these cans going by the sams but it turns out that the wiring of these cans was upside down shown on the sams until I decided to check the other way around only to find they were ok.

So, basically the color AFC attempts failed at first due to procedural error, and or not fully understanding the rather convoluted directions in the SAMS, which is no surprise.

I guess you could say the afc attempts failed because I never had a problem like this so Grounding point G I would not have known what was right or wrong. So the coil may show 1-2 on sams but it was actually 3-4. At least I was able to figure that out lol.

When I look for test points (except for tube socket pins which are well standardized or well labeled PCB or chassis stakes) I always look for 2 components that connect to the test point and trace them to their common junction to make sure I'm not on the wrong end of a resistor/capacitor or wrong lug of a coil...It's good practice and it's saved me headaches a few times. I've also seen Sam's have schematic and or typographic details wrong several times so I like to make sure everything makes sense to me.

Sometimes ( especially on point to point sets) rushing ahead without a clear understanding of what you are interacting with can lead you to accidentally changing things in a way that breaks things and is hard to find.

Just yet another learning experience well as long as these sets are around.

Why is it some colors are alittle bit different from a flat tv to a crt tv

NTSC= Never Twice the Same Color.

Multiple reasons.

1) The picture tube primary colors (phosphors) were changed over time from the original NTSC standards to get brighter pictures (the green saw the largest changes, but blue changed significantly also. The red changed slightly; the strongest change was toward orange in the all-sulfide tubes.
2) TV manufacturers made proprietary changes to the color circuits to partially compensate for the phosphor changes
3) TVs for a long time used a quite cyan white balance, to reduce the load on the red electron gun, due to the relative inefficiency of red phospors
4) meanwhile, TV cameras were designed to make good pictures with the newer phosphors, so there were two rather uncontrolled adjustments in the system, at the camera and in the receiver.

5) Finally! PAL and HDTV settled on the correct circuitry in cameras and receivers for the new phosphors, which also became the sRGB standard for computer images (jpg files).

Interesting , lots of changes just for tv.

That, and you can't really compare the two, as they are vastly different techs. ( all joking about NTSC aside! :P )

With the vintage set, there will always be variations, no two CRTs are exactly alike, nor is any chassis, even if of the same make mo#, change a tube, and it will act slightly different.
And with NTSC, there is the infamous TINT control, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tint_control.
Always a source of fun to get JUST RIGHT! :)

But as things went over to flat/digital, these variations became almost, but not quite non existent between sets and other makes models of flat screen sets, a very keen discerning educated eye can still see differences, but to the average person, they look very much alike these days.

Well I hate flat panel tvs the color even looks fake and to me it’s kind of hard on the eyes. And no more crt tvs is really a lot of crap them saying hazardous materials there is more crap burning diesel fuel and not everyone goes by the recycling program I think it was just a new technology they wanted to get out there.

For all practical purposes, CRTs were/are hazardous waste, they made millions of them, w/o any foresight to recycle them, so they get tossed out and end up in land fills, many of them have lead and other heavy metals, these are items of this type that went down this path, nor should they be condemned because of this, really. :(

It's been argued here before by others that lead is added to glass through vitrification and that nuclear waste is safely disposed of by vitrification into glass and that if the process is good enough for nuclear waste it should be fine for lead. As I understand it you won't really be getting much out of lead glass unless you grind it up and chemically break down the glass in something like acid.

Just repeating material from previous posters in topics I find interesting...

Actually, modern flat screens have much better color than the old CRT sets, IF you turn off the "lighthouse" default sales-floor mode and set them to a calibrated mode. This is especially true because of the much better contrast (consistent, blacker blacks) of flat panel sets.
This was not true with the very early flat sets because makers had not gotten the hang of compensating the extreme non-linearity of LCDs to match the ideally smooth non-linearity of CRTs.

I would not say that the color itself of the new flat screens is much better.
It is the basic light intensity curves, which are obvious in B&W. The perfection of gray scale if of course better too. That's because they are all adjustable ... but most people don't do it. And in many cases the default so-called "correct" setting is artificially far to dim (to match the default too-dim screens of movie theaters).

I can and have gotten my old Sony Bravia and my CT-100 to be essentially perfect matches by adjusting the Sony gamma to match that of the CT-100,
which is not ideal. IF you adjust the Sony to the correct gamma, you can get either mid-tone hues to match, or high-tone hues to match, but not both at once. This is with the Sony hues correct. I can do the same with my high-end Dell "Photoshop edit" monitor. This is with the one additional adjustment I added to my CT-100 color matrix, which gives complete control. The correct setting is within the standard resistor tolerances, but noticeably off the nominal value.

The difficult hues are in the yellow vs yellow-green and purple vs. violet areas.

I’ve posted this once prior, which is an excellent power point presentation by ISF (Imaging Science Foundation), and I think pertinent to the current discussion of this thread.

The industry moved to better calibration of consumer sets perhaps, the early 2000’s.

https://visions4netjournal.com/wp-co...-2017-33.3.pdf

What adjustment did you add?

I don't remember for sure. It was one of the six resistors from the I and Q
phase inverters to the three adders. I thought about which adjustment direction was missing. I thought again just now and come to the conclusion that it had to be one of the two resistors coming from the plate of the Q phase inverter.

Its no longer there. I had already replaced the six resistors with high stability
1% ones, and when I got the adjustments right I replaced the pot with
one of those fixed ones. As I said, it was within the stated 5% tolerance of those resistors.

If you look long enough at the list of adjustments, i.e. CRT screens, user color control, blue and green video gains, I gain, and relative demod phase, you come up with one degree of freedom too few for complete control.

As I have said innumerable times, this set has, for a single VHF channel,
81 adjustments. I adjusted every single one. The most critical are the two yoke tilts and two yoke lateral shift adjustments. Get these right and essentially perfect convergence is possible. Interestingly, when I replaced the CRT they did not need changing significantly ... the marks I had made were just fine.

Zenith's famous quip is wrong.

I'm surprised that only one adjustment was needed.

With the fixed matrix resistors, you can adjust I/Q relative phase and the COLOR control to compensate for errors in one color matrix, say red. Then you still need I and Q gain adjustments in both green and blue to get them perfect, so that's four additional adjustments total.
If you insist on the I and Q waveforms being exactly correct, then you need I/Q ratio adjustments for errors in all three matrices, plus luma vs chroma gain adjustment in two of them, so that's five additional adjustments.
As you say, these adjustments can be avoided by the use of precision resistors in the matrices.

By the way, back when I did an analog IC chroma demod/matrix design at Zenith (to provide RGB outputs for the unitized-gun CRTs), I had to use some (lousy) on-chip vertical PNP transistors in the color difference paths, and it was necessary to do a statistical analysis of the component matching of those as well as the matrix resistors to show that the 95% ellipsoids of color variation were not significant.

Well noted about the sales-floor mode. Even OLED comes with some saturated thing to catch the consumer... in my OLED, I apllied only well-carefully adjust settings. It also have 100 point adjusting, like the LCD, for shaping the display curve response.

But then, we can calibrate a CRT device for true black levels and great contrast, but is more challenging due to simplified nature of the beast.
More modern CRT TV having "AKB" will stabilize the black point and color balance, and produces outstanding contrast picture with true black at same time, only seen in OLED TV's, since OLED are emissive display like CRT, with the advantage of independent asembled pixels free of focus, halation and moiré effects.

But, in the end, owners of the calibrated CRT will challenge this contrast issue, at least for very contrasted scenes: the light leaking from LCD and alike (LED, QLED) interferes with the result: one black image immediately adjacent to a white block will have light leaking (gray result). The CRT with black matrix will have a very dark result at same scene, and OLED completely dark.
I seen it even in hi-end QLED, even in the letterbox bar, when not coincides to light zone. In my aforementioned CRT TV, and in my Sony CRT monitor, I'm able to achieve 100% black here, and also abvously in my OLED TV.

And, the run-of-the-mill LCD have very noticeable light leakage even in today models, but consumer are used to it.

And, in the transmissive displays, the color converges to gray at low light scenes due to light leakage (loses color space). Is more obvious when compare against OLED.

Granted is the better quality on newer panels, allied with 100-point adjusting and internal processing. But is amusing to compare that very refined and advanced device against a simple and humble CRT color TV using all tube tech... if we consider all differences, is a miracle the results achieved by the old techs

I'm not thinking as hard as I did when I actually did it.

I though about getting the signals right at the CRT.

First consider B&W, color turned off. Brightness sets black level for one color. the CRT brightness controls the other two black levels. Contrast and the blue and green video gains controls the peak brightness of the three CRT guns.

Thus the three B&W matrix resistors are arbitrary but now considered fixed.

There are six color matrix resistors. There are these color adjust controls:
Color saturation, user hue, I-Q phase difference, and I gain.

Hmmm ... unless I screwed up today, it looks like I needed two more adjustments rather than just one. But in any case, adjusting just one
of the matrix riesistors got it essentially correct.

In another view there really need to be two or three more adjustments, but there's no easy way to do these . Those are adjustments for the three gammas of the three CRT channels. Of course the relative settings of the three screens and the two video gains can do a bit of this, as could adjusting the fraction of DC restoration (R249/R273/R274 values, etc.) in each of the three channels (its intentionally not 100%).

Edit: There is one "gamma" tuning that RCA made, and that is the 2.7K resistor in the red CRT cathode. This may also be there
to save it from overdrive in grid conduction ... which is awfully easy to do!

On my set I have added little red and blue masking tape arrows to the brightness, contrast, hue, and color level controls.
The blue ones are my chosen "correct" settings, while the contrast, color level, and brightness have red ones that are placed
so that if I don't exceed them (with the others set at blue) there is never current through that 2.7 K resistor. If there IS current
through it, the CRT red cathode and red DC restorer clip both positive and negative red levels. These red arrows are placed
by using my scope in subtract mode with the DC level and gain of the inverted scope channel so there is zero deflection
with the two probes on the same side of the resistor.

This Motorola I have has a faint white line 12 to 6 straight up and down position any thoughts how to fix this or troubleshoot.

Weakness or imbalance in the horizontal output tubes may do it, this moto is an odd set with the pair of 6JM6s.

Well the tubes are new and I had the same line on the cbs Columbia and a slight adjustment of the horizontal frequency pot the line disappeared

My Stromberg Carlson X22 had the same sort of thing happen, faint white line when started, that would slowly fade after 20-30 min, caused by a weak/tired 6CU6 (11w max)
This went away after it was replaced with a slightly stronger 6GW6 (17.5W max)

Not sure if this is the same as your problem, but it may be similar symptom.

Is there a specific type of antenna for this Motorola color to get a clear picture because rabbit ears don’t seem to work well being it’s color maybe there should be an antenna specific to color

What channel are you using?

There really is no specific "color" antenna, just as there's no such thing as a "digital" antenna. Generally an antenna is good or bad depending on the specific channel for both black and white and color.

Using channel 3 putting cable signal in an antenna amplifier and output has an antenna and all my sets work and the color but it not clear

Low VHF is not the best for indoor antenna rabbit ears, as they are generally too short for the wavelength. If you can use high VHF or UHF you may get better results.

I have an antenna 15 feet any from the set so what do you mean by a high vhf antenna or channel

Channels 3-4 are best avoided if used over air, as RFI plays havoc with that range, direct RF coax should be OK for 3-4, but over air will always be a pain, I have a BT modulator that outputs on channel 7, which is a lot clearer, but 11-12-13 would be even better.