RCA CTC-17 with remote
 

Hello everyone! I just picked up a massive combo console from RCA Victor with the CTC-17 XAE chassis. haven't fired it up yet. Beleive it or not, this set actaully has the remote-control chassis, with motor operated tuner. Unfortunately, I could not get the transmitter. The bulk of my experience have been on CTC-12's, 15's, and 16'. Never owned a CTC-17. Anybody have any background info on the' 17, stories, etc? Also where can I find a transmitter for the remote? I will post pics as soon as I can. thanks guys! -Rob

i may have a remote.

RCA vets usually agree that the 17 is a very good set.

The CTC-17 is just about the same as the CTC-16 except it has the pincushion components needed by the rectangular tube.

Finally some pics...
 

Good to know that this chassis is a good one. Unfortunately the picture tube has a massive short, when the hv kicked on, it started wildly sparking in the neck of the CRT. But, I have an NOS 25AP22 in storage anyway, to replace this one. As you can see, its a bit on the rough side, but has potential. I am already dis-assembling it so that I can take it to my friend who has a furniture factory, and loves this kind of stuff he usually does a good job on these cabinets...The turntable and stereo reciever also play really good!

Do you have a picture tube tester to confirm the CRT is shorted? Looks like your set has a rebuilt Colorama tube, so it would be rare if the tube had that bad of a short. Did you make sure the focus tube (2AV2) was okay? I've seen that cause the problem you describe. However, if the neck of your tube glows purple, than it is "gassy" and probably shot. I've only seen 1 other set do that.....one of mine. A CTC-15 with a Colorama rubuilt tube (21FJP22)

I just tested it with my B&K tester, and it indicated a short...Now its a moot point because I pulled the plastic pin key from the CRT to snoop around a bit,and there are all kinds of hairline cracks around the pins.....bummer. :-( So, it's gassed. No biggie, I got that other one in storage anyway...

Nice set! It should make a nice picture when you get it working. Is the stereo portion tube or solid state?

The amplifier, and stereo, are all transistorzed, oh well, can't win em all, lol. But it sounds great!

How severe is the hernia? :lmao:

Seriously, I'm sure I have a remote... And the CRT problem shouldn't be a big deal to find. In fact, if you have a problem finding one, I do have one that I think has good emission, but has a cataract. PM me or eMail [email protected] if I can help.

Charles

Actually, I had hernia surgery a few years ago, so I am immune, muhahhahaa!!:thmbsp: Anyhoo, My NOS 25AP22 has the cataracts from the epoxy! MAAAAN! So how do I get rid of that crap, and re-bond the safety glass? I will definitely hit you up for that remote though...I have alot of other stuff to pick up from you,lol!!

000

AK'er drh4683 has a very good video series concerning cataract removal on youtube.

Awsome. I like the fact that the tv set haves a power transformer!, not that stupid in series supply like most Europeanen sets had!

Ouch! Wouldn't have kid you about it....


I'll look up a remote, and put it aside. Let me know when you're in town, and we'll meet up (and I'll finally get that Mustang manual, and the RCA cover plate to you.

Charles

Will do, here are some more pics. The flyback looks pretty new. Looks the flyback was made in 1980, as evidenced by the two digits after the "274" engineering number. (think this doesn't work?, try it out! I learned it from an old RCA tech). The tuner is a confusing array of soleboids and motors, gonna clean up this chaasis and bench test it! -Rb

Hey Rob, I just got a CTC-17 combo as well. Did you bench test the chassis yet? My set looks like yours except the tuner and controls are in the stereo bay..

So how do you work on these bigger sets to trouble shoot and do tests and such? I was looking at my 64 roundie Zenith and you would have to have a crap load of extensions so you could put the chassis on the bench. Or can you normally access most test points easily from the topside of the chassis while in the cabinet?

They did make a test jig (13" and 19" screen sizes) that were designed to enable a chassis to be removed from the cabinet and tested on the bench. The test jig usually had a wide array of adapters and cables to fit the various chassis of the day. I don't own one of these; but, I'd like to. It sure would make working on console TV's easier.

Um yeah, ditto that.. What I manage to do and its not easy but it works for me is I made a wooden structure that will house the CRT to bolt up to. This structure is bolted to my bench. There I have the neccesary room to work on the chassis and see what I am doing. I makeshifted a grounding strap for the CRT to chassis. The only thing that is whacked about the whole setup is the yoke wiring on some CRT yokes are too short and of course the usual anode lead only being a certan length make moving around the chassis a chore cause it's still the same problem with the CRT being in the way but it's alot easier.

...

That gives me an idea...I have several dirty old 18" RCA's-I could save one as a test jig. I used to have a 21" round tube jig, that I maybe should have kept intact, but it was such a space hog that I might as well have stuck the whole set on the bench! (it was basically a metal table model CTC-11 cabinet)