Philco 38-7CS restoration
 

I picked this radio up along with a couple others a few months ago.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2577/...640cf5aa_b.jpg


I've been slowly looking for parts ever since and Larry Bordonaro from Old Time Replications came through with some really nice knobs :banana:

http://www.bobandersen.com/images/ph...-7cs/06-01.jpg http://www.bobandersen.com/images/ph...-7cs/06-02.jpg

The only minor issue is that these knobs are plastic and won't hold up to a lot of use I think. I'm going to try to pop the bushing out of that mismatched wooden knob and insert into the new one.
http://www.bobandersen.com/images/ph...-7cs/06-04.jpg http://www.bobandersen.com/images/ph...-7cs/06-03.jpg

Not sure why you think the plastic knob would stand less use than the wooden one? I would have thought the opposite? :headscrat

The wooden knob has a brass/bronze bushing. The plastic one doesn't.

The conecentric tuning is a weird mechanism. The original knob would have been bakelite with a spring behind it. You push it down hard so it rides against the knurled ring around the dial face then you rotate it. That's the 'fine-tuning' So the knob both slides up and down and rotates on that brass shaft.

I bet the original knob wore out from use and they substituted the wooden one. I've tried this knob briefly and while it looks great it seems like the plastic rubbing on metal won't hold up.

This video shows how it works: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_VIknHBh3J0

I didn't realize this had the conecentric tuning. That was a strange setup and as you noted, only used for a short time, but well worth preserving as part of Philco history. I'm sure you can back up the plastic knob with metal to take the force.

38-7CS for sale on the bay
 

Looks like the concentric tuner is in good shape with the original knobs. Plus no crappy turntable hacked into it like mine!

It's great to have all these nice reference photos of an unmodified one.

http://cgi.ebay.com/VINTAGE-ANTIQUE-...mZ150425611885

I scored a Philco 38-4 tonight :banana: It's a little rough - speaker and grill are missing, some veneer damage, refinished in poly, etc. I picked it up real cheap and my initial thoughts are to scavenge parts for my 38-7CS.

Particularly, the original bakelite knobs and return spring, can capacitors and volume control. All of which are missing or damaged in the 38-7CS

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4120/...9096bdda_z.jpg

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I figure the 38-7CS is rarer and deserves a little TLC (7,700 vs 52,500 made).
Whatever I don't need, I'm planning on giving away for free.

It's finally time to tackle the modified 38-7 chairside I picked up over two years ago. I was in pretty good condition except that someone hacked in a 78 rpm turntable :(

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2514/...5e953bb277.jpg

I decided that had to go. First, I stripped the cabinet. Then, patched in the hole with a combination of wood and filler. Finally, some new bookmatched veneer was applied.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6081/...aaccc48f44.jpg

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http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6066/...33e082b460.jpg

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No more hole :D
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6077/...7a5dd241e6.jpg

I bought one of these at the MARC Extravaganza donation auction this year, and had no idea that it was rare. Mine is a bit down it the restoration cue as the dial glass is smashed, the top is groved, the metal bezzle is bent, and some of the knobs are missing.
I'll be following this thread with interest.

Tom C.

They made 7,750 according to Philcoradio.com. No idea how many are left, but I've seen at least a dozen others since I got mine.

I still have the entire cone-centric assembly including dial glass and bezel from the 38-4. Assuming I get the 38-7 tuning working properly, I won't be needing it.

Glad you want to hang on to them for a while 'cause I'm broke now, but later when you know you don't need the parts that I do, and I decide to start restoring mine lets make a deal.

Tom C.

I've spent today filling in the grain. Kind of a PITA with the changing grain orientation as the recommend technique is to wipe off the excess going against the grain.
I ended up going at a 45 degree angle where the alternating orientations meet. It's not filled in quite as fully as I'd like but it's not bad.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6090/...149c0dbc_z.jpg

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You got that stuff in the red cup from Starbucks, didn't you. :yes:

What are you using for filler? Did you mix it with stain first?

:D Now that I think about it, I don't think I've ever had Starbucks coffee before :scratch2:

Constantine's paste walnut grain filler. It's oil based and quite dark out of the can. I just thinned it with some mineral spirits as indicated. It took about 30 minutes to set up hard enough to start rubbing off the excess.

When your coffee is like tar or grain filler it is time to get it elsewhere.

What is the purpose/effect of grain filler?

I missed this thread the last time it was up. I've never seen this model-very attractive, I think! I'm a big fan of the '38 Philco lineup. One of the first classic radios I ever knew was a 38-4 (I think) that my uncle has. One of these days I need to take a look at it for him; maybe, instead of paying me, he can will the radio to me? :) I did finally pick up a 38-3 and it is a real favorite of mine. It has an intermittent somewhere which causes it to jump out of alignment.

It fills in all the open pores in the wood. Mahogany and walnut are especially rough or "open pored" when raw. If you want to get a nice smooth finish you need to fill them in. It's like grouting tile.

I used to do it with shellac or lacquer sanding sealer by doing many layers and a lot of sanding. Grain filler is much easier and faster.

The wood looks darker than before. Is that something that will be noticable when you are finished? And if so is that desireable?

Sorry for all the questions.

No problem - ask away. The grain filler is pretty dark, so yes, it does make the whole cabinet darker overall. Generally, darker filler does look better but there are lighter shades and even transparent fillers available.

After you fill it, generally how many coats of shellac/lacquer do you apply? Do you use a sanding sealer?

I've been using Deft lacquer sanding sealer lately. It seems to have some extra stuff in it that makes it look cloudy in the can but it dries clear and fast. After about an hour I sand after each heavy coat and use as many as it takes to make the surface really smooth. Usually 2 or 3.

I finished with sanding and moved on to toner lacquer.
First, I masked off the area around the lower shelf and sprayed a few light coats.
Once that dried, I masked it off and sprayed the top. Next up I'll move on to the sides.
I find it a lot easier to work in small sections rather than attempt to get an even coat over the whole cabinet at once.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6066/...9e19e67e6b.jpg

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6181/...7338554b76.jpg

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I masked off the whole top and recessed panel so I could spray the inner edge with dark walnut toner. It was a pain, but looks nice I think.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6153/...7c1b2283bb.jpg

I really like the way the veneer changes appearance depending on your point of view :)
When I first got the set, I though the "L" was a different shade of toner.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6152/...f2dc5ed712.jpg

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Wow that looks niiice!

What a transformation!

Thanks!

I finally have the sides prepped for toner. I'm doing the front first then the back. I find it hard to get an even coat over a large cabinet when working with just a spray can.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6159/...afc70d21_z.jpg

It's amazing what a little toner lacquer will do :)
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6155/...16c95967_z.jpg

Another section is done. I've found it's a really good idea to spray toner in the same direction as the grain. Otherwise, you may end up with a checkerboard effect.


The changing grain orientation on this cabinet could make that a little tough to do, but breaking it up into sections is working out well.

That white stuff is just some residue from sanding the lacquer sealer. I can either clean it out or let it melt into the final coats of clear gloss.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6155/...344103cb_z.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6162/...0af18543_z.jpg

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6162/...a328a8ca_z.jpg

This is turning out very nice.

I'm amazed at how you do these large cabinets using only aerosol cans, and apparently right in the house. Do you use an exhaust fan, respirator?

Have you ever looked into a HVLP spray setup?

I do my big spraying projects out in the garage or back porch. There's an open door just to the right, off frame, leading to my back porch with open widows. Also, I have a couple open windows in the room where I'm spraying that creates a good draft leading outwards.

More importantly, I'm just using a light dusting of toner and it doesn't travel far. I'm also doing small sections at a time. It's much easier to control the toner that way. Something I've learned after making a few mistakes - use toner very sparingly!
Before the toner, I applier the lacquer sanding sealed with a brush so no spraying. For the final coats of clear gloss spray lacquer I will take it outside.

I finished off the backside and bottom trim over the weekend. That leaves the top edge to tackle.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6166/...20043d14_z.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6178/...52395707_z.jpg

I'm finally done with the all the toner :banana:

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6159/...92cba390_z.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6164/...3345407d_z.jpg

Wow looks like new! That is one fine piece of furniture you got there.

I've started work on repairing the access panel with the same wood filler I used on the lower shelf.
I glued some veneer on the back to cover the holes, then glopped it on. It sands down fairly easily
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6180/...073960974f.jpg

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6150/...87d85f77f6.jpg


http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6130/...9b2c858a9b.jpg

I finished repairing the panel and applied some new veneer. I wanted to use some flat cut like the original, but only had quarter cut on hand.

I used the old trick of applying wood glue to both surfaces and letting them dry. Then used heat to reactivate the glue while applying pressure with a J-roller.

Once the grain filler dries overnight, I'll start on the lacquer.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6111/...e1cf6df4fc.jpg

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http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6178/...07625ba84e.jpg

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I finished the access panel with some toner then clear lacquer. Here's a test fit.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6171/...848a3732_z.jpg

I gave the main cabinet a final light sanding with 400 grit and headed up to the attic to give it two coats of clear gloss.
It's very convenient to spray up here as there's a big exhaust fan mounted in the window and nothing to get damaged by overspray.
I'll wait a week or two then rub it out.
In the meantime, I'm going to squeeze in one more refinishing project before it gets too cold.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6159/...b3729fcd_z.jpg

Looking good

It looks Great!... I'll bet better than it was brand spanking NEW!

Wow! :banana:

Bob- We just got high speed internet here, so I was able to watch a few of your Youtube videos for the first time. :D Very cool!

Anyhow... I was thinking these Keystone eyelets might work for installing those Philco tube sheild bases?

http://www.keyelco.com/products/specs/eyeletspec.asp

The largest diameter Keystone lists are .121, but I think they might work. I have a bag of the .093 length if you want to try it. They're a little long, but I think they will smash down. What you really need are .125 inside diameter like what was used on the old Fender guitar amp circuit boards. I measured those and they are about a dead match for the Philco's, but I couldn't find any after a quick web search. :scratch2:

Thanks, I think those just might work too. Before I attempt it tough I want to get the radio working and make sure I have a supply of the "G" type tubes.