Latest Score From 63
 

Picked this up Sunday from a guy whos mother just passed away and he was selling the house and it's content this was in the guest room. I got it for $50 bucks and it looks brand new not one scuff or scratch.:banana: It does work poorly but I plan to go threw it and get it working good. It has a CRT dated 12/80 Chanel Master that checks good and strong. It is a CTC 15 model 14g908mv and I am looking for a Sams for it. Does anyone have an extra or a scan of the parts list and tube lay out?

Me likey verrah, verrah mutch !! (grin)

WOW, very nice! Great score!

Beautiful French Provincial cabinet. Marie Antoinette wanted one just like it ! :D

super score :thmbsp:

i have the same 15 in a different cabinet.the channel master crt should deliver a fine picture.we sold those back in the day and they were outstanding.very nice find.good luck and post pictures of it in operation.

I echo Sampson159:

I sold Channel Master tubes also. Never had one come back, either.

Hey, she is CLEAN CLEAN! Great score, brother.:thmbsp:

What a beauty!!!Be sure to give us some pics when she gets up and running...

PM me and I'll send you a Sams for it

Phil

I will post pictures when it is done.

Very nice! I have the same set and while it is one of my cleanest, you have me beat! Mine also had a Channel Master tube but it went to air while in storage. That set is also one of my best performers.

Isn't that the same RCA that Granny thought was a washing machine?

Thats a good call, I will have to see if I can find that epasode I remember seeing that and it might be.

I think it is the set that Granny had.

I have the same set,, except yours is nicer. Great find,, I was watching the Hillbillies in the last year and I think it is the one she thought was a washing machine.

Are you sure that set is from 1964? I just looked at the pictures and could swear I saw a knockout plug on the control panel where the UHF tuner would be, in an all-channel TV. (I had an uncle who owned a Sylvania 23" console with just such a UHF knockout, opposite the VHF tuner; his was almost certainly pre-April 30, 1964.) If yours is in fact from '64, it may have been manufactured either in late '63 or the early part of 1964, before April 30. The only other thing I can come up with, if this is indeed an all-channel set, is that the UHF tuner shows in the same window as the VHF one, when the latter is set to the UHF position. We had a Sears Silvertone all-channel 17" portable when I was growing up that was set up that way; turn the VHF tuner to the position between channels 2 and 13 and, lo and behold, there was the UHF dial, orange with black numerals, not illuminated. Not the most attractive UHF tuner setup I've ever seen, but then again this TV wouldn't have won any awards for best-looking set of the 1960s; as a matter of fact, this had to be one of the plainest looking portables I've ever seen in my life. I had a Silvertone roundie color set in a huge metal cabinet that wasn't much to look at, either. This set had the threaded holes in the base for screw-in legs, which I never did find; I didn't need them as I always used this set as a table model anyway, the three years I had it--until the video output tube socket broke out of the video-amp circuit board in 1973. :no:

I suspect that is indeed a knockout plug for the UHF tuner... the original post states that the model # is 14g908mv which is VHF only... the UHF/VHF version of this set (Cherbourg) is model # 14g908mu. GREAT looking set, Nice score! :banana::banana::banana:

jr

It does have the knock out for uhf it may be from 1963 I have a AD that is simuler from 64 but it has uhf tuner knob that is what made me think it was 1964.

One little tip (applicable to the CTC-15, 16, 17 and 25 chasses)-- the two ground stakes on the far right end of the chroma board can go open-ground, killing the heater voltage on the two 6GU7s. Their plates go high, driving the CRT G1s positive, causing beam current to avalanche, which can quickly kill the 3A3 and flyback. So always reflow those two grounds as a precaution.

The symptom of the 6GU7 heaters going out is - the raster will bloom badly while going out of focus and then fade out.

Bill(oc)

Thanks Bill for the tip I will be sure to do that.

I found the episode granny gets the TV and thinks it's a washing machine
and it is the same set.
I guess this means I have a RCA Victor New Vista Color washing machine:scratch2::D

I notice the flyback is exposed on that set where the newer ones are in a basically air tight can. Is that factory or is the cover missing?

On my 16, 17 and 35 the flybacks are all in a solid can and get hotter than I would like.

Looks like the HV lid/door "is" missing. It would be wise to aquire one. An original RCA one would be nice with the tube chart sticker on it but at least there's some donor/clones out there!!

Hmmm. :scratch2: That doesn't seem right to me at all. Why would the flyback be enclosed in a can, with no vents or other means of ventilation? I cannot imagine why RCA, which after all pioneered color TV in the '50s, would deliberately design its sets with the flyback transformers sealed up--and in air-tight cans, yet. What must the design engineers have been thinking? :scratch2: After all, the KCS-47 chassis, and probably most of RCA's 1950s sets, had the flyback in a metal cage, ventilated, with a hinged cover. The flybacks in those sets didn't have a chance to get more than just hand warm, if that much. I can see today's off-brand cheap color TVs being built so that the components are driven to within a fraction of an inch of their ratings, if not beyond them (it's a cost-cutting measure), but for crying out loud, not sets built in the 1950s; most TVs of the latter vintage were built conservatively, with components of sizes far exceeding what was actually needed. This is why many people kept and used their 1950s TVs well into the sixties and even the seventies, and the sets often worked quite well all those years. My folks had a 1955 Crosley Super "V" 21" console that worked, very well, into the early 1970s.

Unfortunately, however, this is not true with many if not most of today's cheap FP sets. For one thing, the sets are built so flimsily that the least nudge, for example a cat jumping up on the stand, or anything striking the screen, will send them falling off their stands; second, the video driver ICs in cheap flat-panels are molded into the cable between the chassis and the panel, so that if one or more of those chips should fail, the entire TV set will be rendered useless. These FPs are certainly not your grandfather's TV. :no:

The only exceptions to the foregoing may be high-end Sonys or Panasonics. I read on either Pana's or Sony's web site recently that one or the other (I don't recall which) has finally come up with a FP set that will last 20 years in normal usage, and the sets are currently available for purchase at better stores. However, this longevity comes with a hefty price tag, as I do not think you can touch any of these long-life flat panels for under $2000 at this time.

I have it I just took it off to see how the flyback looks. I will probly leave it off and add a small fan to the set to keep the fly and chassis cool I do this on my sets to protect against heat since I like to watch my sets when there done and parts are not always easy to find. I did order all new electrolytic capacitors for it and checked all the tubes and have replaced the bad ones. I will update and send pics. of it working when it is done.

Jeff,
Yeah, I was never a fan about the upside down rect tube sitting on the flyback design either...but it is a way of ensuring radiation protection as the set cannot operate without the cover/tube in place! And we all know just how much RCAs love to eat Flybacks!!

Damon,
Once you get this set running don't forget about checking HOT current draw and compare that value to the KV. If the HV control pot doesn't equalize things out then the horizontal effeciency coil may need a little tweeking. Anytime a HOT is replaced current should always be checked too.

Keep us informed on your progress...nice set!!

Nice set! If I found one like that over here for $50, I'd be all over it.

well got all the new elec. caps.last week put them in and replaced most of the molar caps with what I had and it still works about the same:tears: the picture gose out of sync and rolls from side to side and it has color bars roling threw the picture all the tubes check good might be an open cap or resistor? I will have to work on it more on my next day off.

Check the Horizontal circuit really well, it looks like that is the problem. It can also be the reason the color won't lock.

I will do that and thanks for the tip.

That is 100 percent correct. A color TV picture must be firmly locked in sync for the color to be stable. Poor horizontal sync, in particular, will cause color sync problems as well. I had a roundie color set years ago with very poor color sync, but I didn't know at the time (early 1970s) that the horizontal was tied in with the color. Had I known then what I know now about the link between solid horizontal sync and color sync, I could have enjoyed that set a little longer with a good picture. As it was, every time the color would go out of sync, I had to turn the tint control from one extreme to the other several times to get it to lock. That symptom alone should have told me right there something wasn't right with the horizontal, but I was a 17-year-old kid at the time puttering with the set at random and didn't know any better. Finally had to get rid of the set a year or so later, when the video output circuit board cracked while trying to replace the tube. :no:

You're welcome, I hope you get this beauty runnin' soon:thmbsp:

Well I found that the horz det. Diode pack had one side open bought a new one and wow it works but it does still need more work it still goes out of synk sometimes when you change channels or adjust the horz hold and I see retrace lins when the screen goes blank like in between a show and a camershal. I will have to do some more serching for the problem. I also did find the date under the chassie and it is April 15 1963 The picture of it working is on the originanal post with the other pics.

That is a very nice looking set I have always liked the RCA roundie as a favorite.

Sounds like some minor issues but you're about there!
As for the retrace lines, common with RCA's..Check resistor values around the pix tube bias switch, normal service switch and out towards the drive and screen controls as well as B+ and B+ boost. Those slide switches aren't the best, either. I'll bet there's some drifted resistors!!

And when you say the color is not locking in you're seeing "color bars"..My CTC-16 has that issue but if I move the fine tuning back and forth just once it locks so I've been kinda putting up with it. I've had this set since '76 and it's always been like that..doesn't make it right though and I would like to correct it...when I can get back to it!!

I know this problem has been discussed here by others, and I need to be reminded of the solutions too. Not uncommon...

Ok, thought about your color sync issue. Horizontal is good and stable now? Even if it's drifting a little, color will go out. Make sure your horizontal hold control is set so you move it in either direction an equal amount to determine it's most stable point. (as a side note, is the pot somewhat centered in it's range?). All good here then there's some things to check on the chroma board.

For starters, make sure the 6GH8 for the 3.58 Mhz is ok, as mentioned elsewhere and I agree 6GH8's can test good but still not work too well in the circuit...try a couple and observe your results.

Is yout tint control centered or close to center? (easy fix).

Check the 6EW6 and the 6JU8 tubes too. Grounds and wire leads ok? RCA Chroma Boards have wires running on the component side that will get corroded where they run into the feedthroughs and possibly become poor connections. Solid grounds verify too.

After all this, check voltages on the 6EW6 and 6JU8..ok?

Thanks for the the help on this but it is the horz. sync that still goes when when you change chanels on it and the the horz hold has to be reset I am sure its not a tube the horz output and sync tube is new and all the tubes
check very good I have checked all the resistors on the horz \ vertical board. I am going to do that on the crohma board and double check all the grounds.

This may be a silly question, do you have a scope? You should be able to pin down where the horiz is losing itself. I'd make sure the takeoff point at the sync seperator is good/stable first as a point of reference.
Are you able to work with the chassis out of the set, attached? I've done this before with my '16, had to prop it up from the floor vertically and I made an extension lead for the HV. The tuner bracket assembly will mount by the A/C plug, fastened by two 1/4" hex screws.

I do have an old tube type scope a friend gave me but I have no cables for it and I have never used a scope before but I want to learn how. I think it would help make it a lot more easy to fix these things. I had a friend when I was a teenager in the 80's that helped me learn to work on tv's but I never worked in or had a shop or any schooling on it, but I have had good luck getting my sets going. I am sure I can set the chassie up vertically on the floor to the way you described.