Holy Smokes!!! I actually aquired a KV-3000R!
 

I doesn't work.. My brother picked it up for me and it's sitting in Riverside for me to come get it this weekend! He checked it out and it's completely dead, along with the power doors. So I told him to just leave it alone till I get there.

Apparantly it took him and two other guys to muscle it into his pickup truck..
This one is in great condition too! He found it on CL and picked it up for $300.

Im so stoked! This is one heck of a coming home present!

You Lucky Dawg !! That puppy has been one of my Objets De' Lust for 30 years now...

Bravo!!! :banana::banana::banana:

Some people here might consider me crazy, but if I were offered one of these or a 30" DuMont for the same price, it would be tough decision.:scratch2:

jr

True, I have never seen a 30" Dumont before! I just hope the 820DB22 CRT is ok, these are rare CRT's now..

Just curious, The doors are integrated within the power supply? So if there is no B+ present, the doors will not move right? This is going to be a dawg to troubleshoot im assuming...

Congratulations! I hope you get it working soon and have fun troubleshooting.

Hey you never know-it could be as simple as a bad power cord or blown fuse!

Congrats, Shawn!!! That's a magnificent set, and I have the service manual on it and will be happy to send copies. Please be careful when moving that set, as it's SUPER easy to rip the tamo ash wood veneer off the base. Also, be sure the chassis bolt are all there. It weights 510.7 pounds. I might be able to point you to a working CVM-3000 parts chassis, if you need later. No promises, as I have no idea if the guy still has it.

Charles

Kewl! Thanks Charles :thmbsp: . A blown fuse sounds too easy, I like the challenge. But yes, it would be nice if it was just a fuse, lol.

Remember the trailer I had last year when I picked up a few sets from you? Im thinking of using it to pick up this guy. Call me crazy, but I think the use of foam and saran wrap around the cabinet will protect it from rub marks from straps.

That should protect it, but the biggest problem I had moving mine, was that if you tilt the set slightly, the wood pedestal scrapes on the ground. That causes the veneer to rip off. I'd recommend pulling the chassis out, and moving it apart. The tube is chassis-mounted, and is easy to pull (if you're a competitive weightlifter, or have help :banana: ).


It's been years, but I think I had to cut & resolder the wires for the anti-finger pinch sensors on the door edges. Everything else was unplug-able. Evidently the touch sensors have to be hardwired.

Charles

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m...assisRemvl.jpg

Hey all! Im down visiting my brother and I just managed to shove the set in the back of my Tahoe between my brother and I. What a beast! Looks clean, the bottom of the set unfortunantly has some damage. Veneer is cracked a bit. I have a remote for it and when I got it the back was already off the set. Not sure if someone has been poking around but it looks untouched.

I was going to ask that... There were two remotes that came with it new; RM706 and RM706W. They were the same remote as the more common ones, but added the "door" button. VERY VERY VERY rare. The RM706W was basically a show piece, and was an RM706 encased in a Tamo ash wood housing. Too nice to use. I've only ever seen one W, and they were unavailable from Sony even in the early 80s.

Is there a name plackard on the cabinet next to the power button? Sony mailed a 24k gold plackard to the buyer of those, with their name engraved on it.

Charles

Well believe it or not it does have the RM706W with the door function! The plackard however is missing.

WOW!!!!!! I have to see that set some time... Since you have the set, if you like, I can make a hard copy of the service manual for you. I never have good luck scanning and eMailing files. That chassis is 100% unique, and shares nothing with any other Sony. It's only used in the KV-3000 and the CVM-3000/CVX-3000.

Charles

Shoot Charles, that would be awesome! Let me know if you want anything for copying the service manual for me!

I have a feeling im goona need it..
Ill snap off pics of the beast ad it's remote once I get it unloaded and in the house.
When I get it up to snuff I'll take a video of it working and put it up on the net. And hopefully of the doors opening via remote too.

Well, it looks like the "E" board on this set is cracked pretty good and someone did a repair job on it before to bridge the cracks. All fuses and cord test ok. Completely dead, no click of the relay, nada.

Tomorrow I'm going to probe around the logic control to see if it's getting it's 12v feed. What sucks is the crack in the "E" board goes right accross the horiz drive transformer so I'm thinking that there might be dirty connections that could have taken out the HOT. But the thing that gets me is all the fuses check ok.

That's a very rubust chassis design, so I hope you might be OK. Very well-fused. PM me with current address, or maybe we can meet up if you're in the area, and the copy is yours...

Just a long shot, but one of my KV-3000s had a weird problem when I got it. Totally dead, and it was a wire yanked out of the power transformer. The wire was too short, and when the chassis panels were hinged closed, it pulled the wire. I lengthened the wire, and fixed the problem. It's been 20+ years, so I don't remember the details other than that.

Charles

Interesting, Charles. I doubt if the 3Ks were a large production, "Volume" type set, & as such if their peculiar "bugs" were all that well known by the factory...My R-389 was a low production radio-Maybe 750 made 1954-55- and it kinda shows subtle signs that it was, at best, MAYBE an "advanced prototype" set.

My understanding is that there were only 1000 of them built? Am I correct?

Well I got power now! Im so lame, I didn't know that there was a master power switch hidden way below the cabinet (I should of known this before, most 80's Sonys had em). Anyway I pulled the K board due to it's 7 layers of filth and cleaned it and saw "K 13" for power switch, I immediatly started looking around the front of the console for the master and found it. Well put it back together and powered her up. Got sound, and doors tork. No video, I realized I dont hear the HV coming up. I have heater voltage. I found the HOT is ice cold after a minute of power up. CONV transistor gets luke warm. I checked solder connections at the HO transformer. At least the doors work :)

:worthless:

You are right.... Sorry, daughter hid the camera.


http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/a...6/DSC01680.jpg

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/a...6/DSC01679.jpg
http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/a...6/DSC01682.jpg
http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/a...6/DSC01681.jpg
http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/a...6/DSC01683.jpg
http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/a...6/DSC01686.jpg

Don't be embarrassed... I forgot about that switch too, until you said it, and I'm a former Sony factory-authorized tech who owned 2 of those sets. I'm copying that manual for you today, and will have it out after lunch... I've never seen a bad flyback on one of those, nor on the CVM version, so hopefully it's either a cold solder joint or caps, transistors, etc. causing no HV.

Charles

Thanks a bunch Charles!

:banana::banana::banana: :banana:
WOW! That is one great looking set! I am green with envy! :yes:
And drooling as well. :drool:

jr

Thanks!

Well I started to diagnose further today, and I noticed two things. After poking around the "E" board, I found a cold solder connection between one of the cracks some dude tried to repair. This goes to the center pin of the LOT transformer. And then on the "P" board, one of the connector pins were totally disconnected from the board. This connectoer wiring carries around to the "E" board LOT CONV side. I believe this means Convergence?
Anyway resoldered bad connections and still no HV. Im still assuming the HOT transistor is shot from all the crappy solder issues.

Is there any way to do a goot test with the transistor still soldered to the board, cause I get different readings between the CONV and the HOT transistors. They use the same Hitachi 2SD725 Silicon NPN style.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/a...6/DSC01688.jpg
http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/a...6/DSC01691.jpg

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Cool thanks for the tip Andy.. Actually between thr C and E it's completely open, however I have a 3 ohm reading through the B to E.

On the CONV transistor, C and E seem shorted. But my meter reads 3 ohms but beeps like a short.

Here's a cool vid I made of the doors opening and closing via remote..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1m4_teY-fNA

Holly Molly, the doores are opening by the push of an buton? :sigh:
The tv is ... more then awsome!

That is so cool! I hope you get the horizontal output issues solved soon. I do have a request, if there are controls behind the door on the TV can you please take a picture of them? (I mean the door with the Trinitron logo on it.) I see that you can adjust brightness/color/hue/pix with the remote but I'm assuming there are other controls like sharpness, add/delete, cable/norm, tv/video and possibly audio controls that are only on the set. Thanks!

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Out of all the TV's that I've worked on, I too have only seen one bad HOT that wasn't shorted. It was in a late '90's 32" Sony that had no HV. This was a set that I'd already replaced the HOT and power supply parts in, several years earlier. When it lost it's picture, the owner simply gave it to me. Anyway, I checked everything and couldn't find out why I had no HV. Finally, I fired up the scope to discover that I had a proper horizontal drive waveform at the base of the HOT. I replaced the HOT and all was well. The old one simply would not work, despite the fact that it checked good.

Good call, I got the scope out last night and was going to check for a waveform, but I just got too dang tired. So tonight i'll give it a go and see what I get.

Ill snap off a pic of the controls behind the panel tonight and post.

Thanks! Much appreciated.

That set is a real beauty. After I saw your pictures, I remember going with another tech to a customers home one evening to work on their TV like this. I was in awe of those doors opening!

I hope you get that bad boy running!

I have an old KV-27EXR25 with a new-ish kine. It was dropped before I got it, and got a 7 inch crack across the main board between the FBT and the power supply connections to the G board. I flexed the board slightly and it snapped the crack closed. I spot glued the crack away from traces, then bridged every broken trace. Took many hours to fix, but it works, and has been trouble free, except for an IC on the G board that died due to heat, and having to replace the kine last year.

Again, I cant wait to see a picture on that machine. Due to the weight, it may be with you for the rest of your life!

Yeah, wish the guy that cracked the board before would have straightened it out before resoldering the cracks. But oh well.

Here is the pic of the controls behind the door

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/a...6/DSC01697.jpg

Well what I thought was an issue turned out to be one. I have a funky sine wave coming from the base of the CONV transistor Q514 so I tested it and it has ashort from B to E and C to E. I noticed it gets warm quickly too. So I pulled it and pulled the HOT too. HOT is fine and compared readings to the CONV and yep the CONV is shorted indeed. Everything else so far checks out. I think that bad solder joint on the connector I talked about earlier killed the transistor. The connector goes into the conv circuit.

In turn I have no power in the HOT circuit. No waveform whatsoever coming from B of HOT. Once I restore the CONV circuit I think I should restore power to the HOT side. Keepi g my fingers crossed.

That control panel is epic. :tresbon: I love the individual external vs. internal A/V switches. That way you could hook up an FM tuner to the stereo audio input for simulcast reception. The Sound Carrier switch is interesting too. I'm assuming there were different sound demodulation options available for better sound vs. better selectivity? It's also interesting that they included a vertical hold control. I suppose that was to improve compatibility with VCRs, home computers, video games, etc.