philco 48-1253
 

I recapped this set all but one. It is a cap with wire wrapped around it.
Any ideal what it would be. Thanks for any info.

Check out this discussion on a Philco 46-420 with coiled capacitor: http://www.videokarma.org/showthread...=245882&page=4

Okay . what do you think leave it alone or change it ? The set plays good for about 10 minutes then starts fading out. Or would this be another issue?
Even when i play some records starts fading out. And can a person still get one of theses. or make one. Iknow enough to recapp a set check a few things learning. Thanks Capbuster

I suspect it's another issue - something heat related. Perhaps a power resistor is going bad or a leaky capacitor. Have you replaced any ?

I popped out the old cap out of the coil and stuck a new one inside. After reading the comments from more experienced radios guys, I doubt it's necessary at all. It purpose seems to be to filter out noise from a source that no longer exists.

I doubt that this cap-coil is causing this. Something else is going bad. As you mention it happens to both radio mode and record player mode, I'd look at the circuits used in both modes, namely the audio amp circuits, and the power supply. The radio circuits probably are not causing it. Try measuring various voltages in the set, when first turned on (after the tubes are warmed up, say 20 seconds), and remeasure the same various voltages when the fade out happened. That might tell you what circuit to look at. As someone else mentioned, a resistor may be drifting as it gets warm.

Not clear from the description but don't overlook that a tube heater may be intermittent and cutting in and out. Do the tubes stay lit when it fades?

Ok thanks for the responses . The tubes do stay lit. All the sound in phono & radio gets raspy. Then gets lower. I did recapp all but the wire wound one. I guess look for a resistor in the audio stage? Or just change out all of them? This set is real confined hard to get to anything on the bottom end. tight , tight whole lot tight.lol.

Do you have another first audio and audio output tube? If so, try them one at a time.

Just replace that capacitor and forget the wire coil on it, or do as suggested and put the new cap inside the old coil.

Don't replace all the resistors. Try this: get a can of computer keyboard cleaning "air." Turn the chassis over and turn on the radio. Wait for the sound to go bad.

Turn the can of "air" upside down and use the extension tube. Upside down it will spray cold liquid. Drip some on resistors in the audio and power supply section one by one, get them cold again, see if doing so on a particular one makes the sound come back, then that's the bad resistor.

Well that is a neat trick. you must be yogi bear. I will give this a try. i will have to see about a tube. Have a few sets might have one borrow from.
Give me few days let you all know.:thmbsp:

Yogi I ain't, just a turnip that fell off the truck a long time ago and they left me here and never came back. :yes:

BTW while you're at it, the upside-down can trick is good for freezing off skin tags and warts and such. And it stings like heck. It's like absolute zero. Good stuff. Fix your radio and avoid the dermatologist at the same time.

DAMMIT... here we already have ID checks when you buy it b/c of idiots huffing it... now they're gonna ask for your dermatologist's license too :D

Well this is going to take awhile. This set is crowded. Going to have to take some caps back out so i can get to resistors. It is only about 5 inches wide by
about 16 inches wide 6 inches deep. Full of stuff. Oh well be a adventure.

The first suspicion is in resistors in the audio and power supply section. Don't take any caps out: just bend them to one side. You should be able to ohm them out and then with the set playing snorkle the coldspray tube to them. Besides, if you took them out, how would you get the set to play?

Well i was going to go ahead and replace all. But i will try your method.
Seems smarter . Thanks Cap buster

Good luck on your 48-1253. I just restored my mother's 48-1253 and it turned out great...left that choke in place with no problems. Just a recap and new output tube, were all that was required. Wondering how your record changer is working? Mine tends to pull the tonearm across the record surface just a fraction too soon...that is, before the needle clears the record surface, completely. I therefore get a slight rip (no damage to record), about 50% of the time. Have you had a similar issue?

Mine will do this also. Like it stuck on 10 inch record setting. I just use mine manually. Eve if i set it for twelve inch record starts playing at 10.

Was just wondering .I always order my caps & resistors from a place in Florida
Tell him the set sends caps for it. But this time he sent 22uf for 15uf.
This set has 3- 15uf. 1- 10uf.: & 1- 40uf. electrolytic caps. Would the 22uf be a little of the 10% margin.:scratch2:

It's OK to go a little bigger on electrolytics. No problem.

Back in the olden days, electrolytic caps tended to vary -10% to +40% anyway... So the 22 for the 15 is just a bit beyond that, but unless it's the first cap a vacuum tube rectifier would see, it won't hurt anything to be too big.

Hence my name capbuster. Guess what i done stuck a cap in bass ackward.
My problem is trying to work on three set at same time. Need to finish one move onto the other. Working on a crosley 03cq and this set and philco model 111. Work on cabinet for awhile then jump to chassi. I going to finish one before going to another. Sorry guy,s
my bad.

If i may ask another question ? This set has two cans with electrolytic caps .
One can has a 15uf cap. On the bottom ground goes to it but the pos lead goes nowhere . Has two terminals black going too one nothing on the other .
Looks original. I left it alone because lead comes out pos. then nothing.

Don't quite follow what you're describing. Can you trace it out on the NostalgiaAir schematic?

I,am working on getting set up for photos. Really kinda new to this sending link,s and pics.:scratch2: What it is on bottom of can has two terminals.
A black wire ground to one then on the other terminal no wire going to nothing.
Just like the cap in the can just loops then dead ends. Can see where the cap comes out goes to the other lead . But no wire going to anything. It is like the ground goes in then the positive end just soldered to the other terminal then
stops. If this makes any sense . :scratch2: Sorry for not being as smart as you guy,s on theses set,s trying to learn. Been a carpenter all my life.

The schematic and the parts list on NostalgiaAir states that there are three electrolytic cans or containers. One contains a 40 and a 10 mfd., which is the usual filter capacitor arrangement.

Then there are supposed to be TWO 15 mfd. capacitors used in a voltage doubler circuit. Is the other 15 mfd. cap there, too? Was somebody in there before you and took it out and modified the circuit perhaps back to a more usual straight rectifier one? Or is it possible that Philco changed in the middle of the run to a "can" with two 15 mfd. caps in it? How is the 15mfd. can marked?

It has the two 15 uf for the transformer. The can is marked one 15mfd . But on
the parts list only calls for four electrolytic caps. The other can say,s a 40, and 10. It is like they put a cap in the can then hooked nothing to it. Looks all original all philco tubes caps & resistors.
Thanks for the reply and help Capbuster.:D