Maggie roundie combo
 

yep, another combo, very nice and not quite an aircraft carrier, more like a destroyer sized. Anyway not gaudy at all, very clean design. Its in the back of the X so will get some pics after I unload.

U45-43-LP
21GUP22 test great, the reading was at 5v no sign of cataract.

if anybody has a HV cage for this chassis please let me know.

Is the HV rectifier cracked, or is it just an optical illusion?

WHY would someone do that to a color set?

looks cloudy, have not checked it out close. Dont know why anyone would pull the cage and leave it off, unless there was some work done, and just did not want to bother.

I would bet with some minor modification one of the Packard Bell flybacks would drop right in there and work. (Not saying or suggesting its bad) This is an RCA clone, dont let the mirror image chassis setup fool you. I looked of the Sams and its full on RCA. The fly could be closer to the 16 than the 17-35 but you could get the later one to work. It also looks like the can is open on the top on the sams.

The sams I sent you has a SS focus rectifier so its not exact but should be really close. I cant find any of the numbers you sent me listed.

Rectifier looks bad, nice looking set though!

A combo stain is something that happens when you pull up to the house with another one. Yes I know its spam.

Cool looking set :) They never really made combos like this here in NZ.

slow cooking on the variac, HOT pulled, VOT pulled, about 40vac. current nice and low so at least no shorts, filaments can bee seen glowing so at least that is working. filter cans staying cool. will ramp up a bit more later and then try a full power startup and see how it goes.

at first the HV would not come up, so wiggled some tubes, then tried again, ah the nice cracking sound. Hooked up the converter box, Rockford comes on (the worst episode ever, "just a couple of guys". Horz not right so adj and it locks in (weak lock and some phasing issues when on freq). Vert is solid. Color lock is weak as well (makes since if the horz is acting up, if I understand how it works a pulse of the fly gates the burst amp off and on, so if that is a bit out of whack the burst amp could be wacked.

it would be all b&W, (adj fine tune to just eliminate the 920kz beat freq) then rainbowing then color lock but again weak.

Picture was narrow as well, but that maybe the variac I am using, its not my heavy duty one (it has a built in isolation transformer and its metered for VAC and current). So I just try full line voltage later. If that does not increase the width I will need to do some B+ checking etc...

But for now its promising. I will prob pull the chassis after the full powr check out and go over it, I know there will be some caps I want to replace at the very least the horz coupling to the HOT and some of those high voltage ceramic tube paper caps in the vert circuit. I will install a B+ fuse and a fuse to the HOT like I did on the CTC-16. Will of course check all the filter caps.

The Vert looked very good, no spreading of lines and height and lin looked fine. I will still replace at least the lytic on the vert cathode bypass, its one of the paper wrapped metal tube types. Its easy so may as well get to it.

before powering it up I did check the HV tubes and the horz osc tube, all checked fine. while the chassis is out I will of course go thru all the tubes and clean the sockets and pins.

Interesting that its chassis is "backwards", especially when it is an RCA clone.

yea its odd seeing the interlock right under the FLY. any speculation why the HV cage would be missing? there is no tube chart, anywhere so the guess is that is where it was.

I am thinking it may have a new fly, it dirty as heck but has no drippings at all, so perhaps replaced a long time ago. there wiring looks very neat, so I 1st thought it was factory, but the filament leads to the 3a3 almost look like there is a splice down near the bottom.

perhaps a high time set that was just service properly (but for the missing cage). At least it got a new CRT instead of a brightner.

Back in the day was there anyone thinking that not having the cage would be a good idea for better cooling of the fly? disregarding the X ray issues.

it turned out to just be white on the outside of the tube. wiped it off and it looked and tested fine.

I remember a friend of my dad having one of those in his living room in the later 60's.
Great color.When the tv died,they cut that section out of the cabinet and glued the two ends together to make a consolette stereo!

pluging into the full power (no variac dropping the voltage) resulted in a nice full rastor.

I either get No color or color bars rolling thru (no sync). It has a very soft horz lock, you can flop it both ways with the horz control so I presume the osc is working and when carefully adj it will hold but the phase is not solid (scene floats across the screen), so I presume there is a prob in the AFC on the horz, prob diodes or drifted resistors in the horz afc. I will just go a head and replace them rather than fooling around with it. My guess is the lack of solid horz lock is messing up the burst amp keying pulse from the flyback, and maybe a weak 3.58mhz crystal on top of that. I do get momentary color lock but its very fleeting. I have checked the tubes in the video/chroma, replaced one very weak 6GH8 (osc) and found a tube shield for it (was missing and not loose, darn tech...) and replace a 6WE6 that had a short that would show up after it heated up.

Tested the radio, all seemed good but for normal dirty speaker switches, but I will do a full recap of that later. I know there are a bunch of 5uf lytics in it that tend to dry up. I also will do the stereo mod to the TV selector so I can use the amp and drive it with the audio out from the DVD (will make an adapter that will allow reverting back the the interal TV audio buy just pluging it back in, did this before on the B&W maggie).

Don't mess with the crystal till you replace any suspect caps in that circuit- and they are all suspect believe you me. Sounds like the horizontal section needs caps too, I find that even with drifted resistors a stable lock should be obtainable.

So it did turn out to have more problems than initially thought. Get the horz lock thing fixed then I bet the color may lock in. You can always tweak on the color osc coil a tad and see if it pops in.
The good thing is nothing major just little annoying stuff. I have a feeling those diodes are selenium and expire form time.

I am impressed that you were able to find a color set in florida! Back when I lived there (same time I started collecting TVs) I only ever saw 3 monochrome TVs (I snaped up two, but one got away cause my car could not fit two consoles). Even in the radio belt it aint the easiest thing to find a roundy. If I were you I would have bought a lottery ticket the same day as that set, and prayed not to get struck by lightining.

Tom C.

This one came from Tenn.

tried subbing a sync sep tube (6gh8) no real improvement, so I decided to pull the chassis. 1st order of bus is to pull the speaker under the tuner/control cluster, then pull the cluster (after the confusing way its mounted using the pot shafts as mount screws. Of course all the strain reliefs were broken, no big, and of course the prior tech did not bother to replace the tuner cover (was this common practice?) perhaps due to the difficulting in removeing the tuner it was decided it just did not need a cover....

moving on to the chassis, one screw that was just barely in just a couple of turns and the chassis was loose (thanks again mister tech).

I finally get the chassis out, nice, a alligator clip wire is soldered to the center post of the video amp and burst amp tube sockets, and then the clip is on the chassis, sweet...

My guess is there was a bad ground connection maybe even a broken pcb and this was the fix. He should have at least soldered the dumb thing oh and the wire was not covered all the way with insulation, looks like a splice was done and not covered, no evidence of any electrical tape or anything. lord what a hack.

This tube socket on the bottom looks a bit funky, not sure if there was a replacement done and poor solder job or what. May account for the impromtu ground.

other than that it looks pretty original. I will see if I can clean up the sockets, reflow some solder and may as well do a better job of what ever that ground wire was all about, not to mention reflowing the solder stakes.

I have some strain reliefs so will button that up. I could not find the mounting point anywhere on the chassis for the tuner cluster.

I love the hack jobs! I have a Philco roundy that has a cracked solder somewhere on the if board, techs fix was to cram a wedge of wood between the chassis and IF can to flex the board to where it would work.

D I think you were right about this set having a lot of hours on it, guess that accounts for the new CRT.

oh I see he did attempt to solder somthing maybe even the ground stake, from the bottom, I can tell by the melted insulation of two small wires, enough so that the wire was showing thru, maybe even shorting (prob not but real real close). I will cut, splice and cover with some heat shrink.

what a HACK...

The big degausser varistor is melted and nasty looking, I have a spare. The darn tuner center lead broke, I think I got it back on the right spot (it was not a plug in type) this happned before I fixed the strain relief, prob when I was messing with it trying to mount the cluster to the chassis.

I am getting tired, and I am out of strain reliefs (need 2 more, top rack of pots and the main batch of leads coming out of the back of the chassis).

I will prob just pull the AFC diodes and call it a night.

Maybe we all should start a vintage-TV version of thereifixedit.com . :)

ok AFC diode was leaky on one side, so that should fix the horz and hopefully the color sync.

was checking over the PS caps, the doubler was def a replacement, the give away was the masking tape cover, and the fact that it was a 2 section cap tied together (I doubt the factory would do that).

I was extruding a nice rubber poop out of one of the unused slots on the bottom, looks like a heat and pressure issue, so I will be looking for a 160uf 250v AND a proper can cover. Its a bit crowded on the bottom so I will need to stuff a can.

There are a few suspect caps that will get changed out, and it still has a bumblebee .047 safety cap (I will clip the leads long and dump in on the audiophools on ebay, should get enough to buy all the caps I will need).

thats all for tonite, I checked the .001 2kv elmenco on the primary of the vert out, value right on, no fuzzyness, no leakage at 450v (which is high as I can go). I would have replaced it anyway, but I only have some dipped that go to 1.6kv, so I will have to order some of those (I dont trust them).

there was a single black plastic .01 400v sprauge in the horz osc section, it tested perfect, no leakage at 450v so I left it alone.

I am trying to not make too many changes just in case I goof something up, it was working after all but for the horz AFC.

I did check the vert osc bypass cap a 50uf 150v, tested perfect again I left it. I randomly check a few of the purple dipped caps a .47 and a .1 both 200v, they checked fine, no fuzz no leak so maybe I will get lucky on this set and dipped caps.

that bumblebee across the line was fuzzy and very leaky, I am suprised it had not blown up yet.

I did have one open cap, a 100uf nichicon 25v that I think is part of a degaussing circuit. I see a diode and a relay all tied into that blown large VDR that is around the degaussing circuit.

if anybody has a HV cage they can loan me, let me know, I would like to use it to make up a template and make my owh cage for this one.

looking a bit closer, that relay goes to the B+ circuit breaker, so my guess is its a delayed B+

popped for a full set of electros, about 35$ got that 2k vert out cap, and a new line suppression cap. This weekend it will be just the strain reliefs and the AFC, now that I have the caps on the way I will have to wait as I dont want to have to reinstall just to check it out. I really need to get my test jig installed in the shop.

I got all the caps from mouser, all radials, will stuff cut off the cans and leave the base in place, use a bone saw to do the cutting.

I will prob check 1st, if the 450v's test ok I may just leave them.

I may have the HV cover for your set. I parted out a magnavox console a while back. Your chassis looks like my parts unit. You can have the HV cover.
PM your address and I will send it to you.

Mike

PM sent :yes:

Got the horz AFC diodes in, I think I will spend some time tomorrow cleaning the crud off the PCB's really dirty. Gives me something to do while waiting for the caps. I seem to get a lot of sets with defective horz AFC diodes, whats the deal there? most of the other diodes always seem fine.

The early dual AFC diodes were selenium, but we always replaced them with 1N914's or 1N4148's from Radio Shack - they used to have them 50 to a pack for 1.99. Just use two diodes in whatever combination you are replacing, common cathode, common anode, or series. NTE177 is the analog to the 1N914's AND 1N4148's if you choose to go that route.

ECG113's ECg114's and ECG115's were the replacements back in the day. ECG updated the ECG113 to the ECG113A, a silicon replacement , when GE and International Rectifier no longer supplied the selenium ones.

I guess the epoxy packages weren't moisture-proof, or the selenium degraded somehow over time. Either way, an unstable Horizontal Hold would merit replacement if the old black epoxy package was in the set. Admiral and Sylvania Color sets always seemed to have weak hold, even with new diodes...

Cheers,

hmm I used some 1n4004's I had handy, I thought I had used those before, CTC17 and I were discussing this off line the other day, he had some concerns about the switching speed, but I though I had used them in the past.

I have been using those TO220 package dual diodes you find in modern switching mode power supplies. Mostly because I have extras. They work great.

Every tube caddy I have run into has a few of these in it. They must have been a common fail even back in the day. They are only rated at 1ma so the new high current diodes should last.

I just looked at the specs on the 1n400x series and those are really for 60hz. Im sure they will work but some fast recovery shottkys would be better.

ok I have some 1N4148's that I will use.

got the new degausser guts in (CL-90 and VDR). Replaced 3 color amp coupling caps .01 one was very lossy (would barely open the eye) the other two were not so bad, open about 80%, I figured I would do'em all.

There are 3 100k resistors that couple the plate from the color amp to the CRT, two of them look a bit toasty, and have decreased in value to 80k the ohter is 110k, so I will replace all 3 as well.

I still need to check the HOT coupling cap. After that I may hook it back up and see how its doing (hope I have not messed anything up).

I did see where the focus lead from the focus rectifier tube had broken, prob due to the way it bounces around with out the cage to hold it all steady. easy fix but just a reminder to look over work well (I found it while I was degreasing all the wiring harnesses).

the .01 horz coupling cap was about 10-15% away from fully opening (fuzzy like those other .01 I just did). These are brown dipped caps. the one that tested very bad had turned a bit dark almost black on the very top. It sat next to one of the large color amp tubes, and I suspect got a lot of heat, perhaps that is what does them in. Still no leakage at all.

I went ahead and checked a couple sections of two of the other cans, both tested fine for both value and leakage, maybe just a bit slower to open in the leakage than a new cap, but they did fully open. I am leaning towards not doing any but for the doubler which was not orig, and I dont know if it was even for the correct rated value or voltage, I would have to peel off the masking tape to see. I did pick up some 1.5" heat shrink today, will use that since I cant seem to locate a proper can cover. will of course have to make a cardboard disk for the top.

Done for the nite will try it out tomorrow to see how badly I have goofed it up.