56? packard bell 21" tv scored
 

So I just picked this up for free, supposedly working. I brought it up with a variac and she works. Though the horizontal is messed up. The picture is at about a 30 degree tilt to the lower right.

I cant wait to get started in on this old girl tomorrow.

http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/9...y05q5b8mb1.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

so is it just the yoke?

if its working I would go slow on the caps, just one or two at a time and then recheck. I don't know that era but maybe not a lot of paper caps?

Well the yoke itself is loose, the piece of rubber used to hold it in place has disintegrated. Oddly this has mainly paper caps in it, id have assumed by 56 it wouldnt be.

Whats a good way to secure the yoke?

The back of the Yoke disintegrating is a common problem on sets of that era.

You could just glue the yoke to the bell of the tube with some low acid Silicone, the problem with that is of course you would have to get it perfectly level since you couldn't easily move it later, also the centering rings are usually located on the back of the yoke too so if the mount had rotted they're hanging loose also.

People have made new Yoke covers, takes a little time and ingenuity.

maybe inner tube rubber and sillicone?

please, ANY advice is welcomed. im a novice.

The original cover was made of plastic, I think someone has said it was Soy based and that's why it rots.

Someone here made one, can't remeber who, maybe they'll chime in and fill in the details.

Nice lookin set! It kind of looks like some of the B&W TVs that sold in Australia around the 1958-59 period, I personally have a 1959 His Masters Voice set that's made in slightly similar style http://www.troysvintagevideo.741.com/hmv.html . Anyways best of luck with the restoration!

with a lot of papers I am suprised its still working. Must have been kept in a air cond enviroment its whole life (I think humidity is a big factor in paper cap deterioration). Anyway being that you are new to this my advice on only a cap or two at a time holds true. If you goof something up it is much easeier to fix if you only touched a couple parts vs many. You are replacing caps to add relialbility not to fix a problem. Of couse evertime you pull a chassis out there is risk of breaking something. this is where a test CRT would be handy. you setup the chassis on a stand to hold it secure with the underside exposed, and have a small CRT installed so you can check it after each change. the kinds of problems you risk are:

wrong value cap replaced (you replace a .001 with a .01)

wrong voltage rating cap replaced (a 600v replaced by a 400v)

bad connection made (new cap lead not properly secured and poor connection results).

wrong connection made (disconnected from point A reconnected to point B)
(easy to do, take lots of notes and only remove and replace one cap at a time)

polarity not correct (on polarized caps that is).

solder splash (too much solder applied drips off, spashes on parts under it).

Damage to parts around the cap. Esp important around delicate coils. Ham hands not allowed near the underside of a TV.

Damage to term strips/coil lugs/tube sockets, too much heat and phyical stress can ruin your day, esy true on coil lugs and tube sockets. On those if it looks tough I just cut off the old part and pig tail on the new. Not as neat looking but MUCH less stressful to the other part.

Heat damage to early diodes (not ofter used on old stuff but not impossilble, esp around the video detector) Germanium based solid state devices are damaged by heat, proper heat sinks must be used when soldering near them.

induced shorts, some chassis can be very dense with parts (any color zenith as an example) if you are not careful its easy to push a part like a disc cap and move it so the leads short out (been there done that). So care must be used in how you hold the chassis and what its set on top off (shop rag under chassis balled up pushes part when chassis is set down on it, causing short).

thats about all rookie errors I can think of off the top of my head.

be extra careful on reading the cap values they are often not spelled out the way the old cap is, exp old cap .01 new cap 103.

I use a cap tester to check whats coming out to whats going in just to avoid that one mistake.

Its more a love of the art. Not like an old lawn mower you want fixed so you can get the yard done and back in to watch the game.

I like that comment that recapping is not so much about replacing the bad part but instead about making the set more reliable.

I've only done two TV restorations and I did wholesale replacement of all the .0001 uf and higher values before I applied power. You have to be meticulus and careful or you will have a big problem.

Check those resistors too.

Carl

Nice TV. Maybe you could post a picture of the yoke issue? I've made a replacement yoke back cover out of wood for an RCA set (don't laugh it works), but it sounds like you may have some other problem.

Im currently having a load of issues with this lap top, one of many is that it now wont let me upload new pictures, an uncle who is rather computer savvy is coming over tomorrow to hopefully help me with this.

The "stopper" for the yoke has seemingly shrunk and become solid as a rock, after it apparently came loose and wont even try to reform.

This tv was continuously used untill the mid 80s (when it developed this problem). The man i got it from was given it by his grandfather, its always been kept in the house. Perhaps that why it still functions today, a controlled climate. None of the hot to cold youd experience in a garage or shed.

Oh well, i had a lazy day and did not end up building the chassis stand for this. Hopefully on sunday ill be able to do this.

Well i went and built a tilt chassis stand for this. Im doing like you said and replacing a few caps at a time, so far so good. I found that the rubber "yoke holder" out of a zenith with a busted crt seemingly works well, the picture is nice and level when its in there (taped on, soon to have the stopper siliconed in place).

But ive yet to screw up! *crosses fingers*

good just keep checking after replacing a couple, I know its a pita, but if you goof something up its a LOT easier to figure where the goof took place (just back track the couple caps).

whatever you do be very careful around any coils, they can be VERY fragile. and remeber if it works now then there should be no reason to adjust any of those same coils (temptation ofter overcomes common sense when it comes to adjusting coils).

Just have fun with it and take your time.

Well as this takes a lot of caps i didnt have, I could only replace 6, but thats fine. I just placed an order for the rest. This had mainly original "packard bell" brand ones in it, sans a few much more modern ones. A few orange drops and a plastic coated metal one.

I went and fixed the yoke with the modified zenith rubber "stopper", then couldnt control myself. I hooked the speaker back up to it and a dvd player and now, ive a picture and sound! Mind you it has horizontal bars going across the screen, its staticy and wavers up and down about an inch, but i think im going in the right direction.

I cant wait for the rest of the caps i ordered to come in and finish this, see if that solves the problems.

Well the recapping is 99% complete, justradios shorted me one .047 on my order and sent two others i didnt need, oh well. I turned her on and got a pretty nice picture. Its a bit wavy at the top though.

Could this be a resistor problem or?

There is an axial resistor thats crumbly, its code is silver red red silver. Ive tried to read the online codes and im a bit confused by them. Would any of you know which this one is?

The two silver bands confuse me as there should be only one silver band on any resistor to indicate a 10% tolerance (on those resistors that are 10% tolerance only).

If you have or can get a schematic it might be simpler to just look up the resistor in the schematic if the color code is illedgible IMO.

Tom C.

Perhaps Grey, Red, Red, Silver... 8200 ohms 10% ?
jr

well it looks silver red red silver, but maybe one is grey. I ordered the 8200 ohms resistor and ill see if that helps.

Im having another problem i just found out about. With the tv on its side in the stand i built to recap it on, it plays okay, sans the top wavering. when its upright.. only the top 1/4 gets a pic, then that stops, then its a horizontal line which quickly becomes an off centered dot and dissapears.

Ive just.. no clue here guys.

Ive checked and every cap ive done is right.

Any clue what this is? It seems like maybe something is shorting out or touching another thing when it gets put right side up. Frankly this was going so well and now its driving me crazy.

Check carefully for loose bits of solder rolling about the chassis, those can reak all kinds of havok if not removed after solder work has been done.

so, im borrowing a tube tester tomorrow. i hope its potentially that as i havent found any solder splatter causing a short.

while I haven't seen that before in a resistor, it is common with low-value ones to have silver/gold in the multiplier - e.g. red red silver silver means 22 ohms, x10%, so you have a 2.2 ohm 10% resistor.

Not a perfect example, but it gets the idea across.

Well the resistor MAY be silver red red grey. But its a bit hard to tell, its crumbling..

If the resistor is still in place I would check it's resistance. It should be close if it is still functioning. Really low ohm resistors in older sets are relatively rare. If they are used they are usually found in the primary B+ supply to prevent inrush failure of the rectifiers (silicon). Seleniums rarely have anything but a fuse resistor to prevent the house from smelling "real foul" when they burn out. What circuit is it in?
I have seen low ohm in the filament of some high voltage rectifier tubes but they are pretty reliable in that application.

Wavy Pic on Packard Bell 21"
 

If the "waves" are side to side, moving up or down the screen, it may be electrolytic filter capacitors in aluminum cans. I don't recall you mentioning whether you replaced any of them. In particular I would look for a cap wired in series or parallel, in the main B+ circuit, right after the 5U4 rectifier or solid state rectifier if so equipped. A '56 would almost certainly be a tube rectifier.

Hard to tell from your description. Could also be Horizontal sync. Are you able to post pics yet?

Good Luck! Sounds like good progress so far. Nice find!:thmbsp:

:worthless

Agreed. As an owner of a '56 Packard Bell, I would've liked to see this!

:worthless

This thread is almost four years old!

guess all the pictures id posted, years back, deleted themselves.

but the tv got restored, got a few months of watching time. The crt detonated like a bomb one day last summer, but ive found a new one. It tests a tad low but.. hopefully ill get it back together this year.

but heres a pic of the packard bell.

http://i57.tinypic.com/2v2tz0m.jpg

Glad that you are ok, hope nobody got hurt. This is a beautiful TV.

Yeah, I know it's an old thread but I was looking for pics of old PB's and this was the same year as mine.

It really is a beautiful set. Thanks for posting it 4 years later!

98D1 chassis? What model is the set? If it's not too much trouble, you seemed to be saying earlier that you had to replace the yoke stopper thing. I'm curious about what you did (and if possible, maybe even a pic of what you did?). I've lost mine and need to figure out what to do for a replacement since apparently PB's method of securing the yoke was uncommon.

Well the tv is currently apart, the crt went out like a bomb and took out the safety glass as well. I fixed the yoke "stopper thingy" with some thicker, big rig truck, inner tube rubber. It worked fairly well, even if it was a tad on the ugly side.

I will pull out the tv and check the what the chassis is, hopefully figuring out what the model was. Im no expert by any means, im the newby guy who pulls one part, replaces it, makes sure it still works, then does another.

Okay, the model # is 24s, the chassis says its a 836 [ 1 ]

hope this helps

I guess it's not related to my TV then. I would think the "24" would indicate a 24" TV rather than a 21". At any rate, good luck getting it back into service!

Im so sorry, back when i originally posted this i had measured wrong, it is indeed a 24" crt, a 24aep4.

I have picked up a new 24aep4, that supposedly tests a tad on the low side. So ive been putting off its installation, something i will have to do soon.