RCA console
 

Found this on craigslist on my birthday !!!!:D
Now sitting in my home !! OMG is it heavy :sigh:
Does anyone know where to get prints for it ?? or can I just use a CTC-16 print for the TV chassis and hope for the best for the tuner and amp resto
I think it is a 1964.:scratch2:

The Sams index says the CTC-16 TV is covered in Set 736, Folder 4 (1965). It says the remote is covered in 736-4-A and the power amp chassis in 736-4-B.

You can buy the Sams manual direct from the company, http://www.samswebsite.com/ . If you live near a large library, ask them if they have Sams (mine does), in which case they'll make you a free copy.

Phil Nelson

its just a CTC-16 comp separate from the tuner amp, they use a switch on the TV on off to switch the speakers from the CTC-16 audio out to the Stereo amp audio out and cut the power to the stereo when the TV is on.

nice combo!ctc16 chassis.cataract doesnt look like too much work.this is a great roundie and as i have said,the ctc 15 and 16s are the best electronically in my opinion.they produce a picture as good as most 70s era sets and they look great on the round screen.bruce in new york is the combo king.if you need anything,i have an excellent crt,working chassis,etc

kickass birthday find man! looks like its really clean too! fire her up!

I would recommend pulling the HOT and doing a slow startup with a variac, a metered one is best (amps and volts), start out at about 10vac and see what the current is (should be nil), ramp up slowly over time, checking the filter can for heat, monitor the B+ (there is a tp on the chroma board, should be marked with 390 or 410v iirc). I stop when I can get it to about 400v which is around 80vac. If all that goes well then pop in the HOT with a cathode break to check the current. Do a full power start, and keep an eye on the HOT current, if it goes over 220, just pull the plug. Start trouble shooting.

the Vert circuit is kinda fussy, the .0082 cap off the plate of the 6GF7 takes a real beating, so if you have issues with the vert check that one and the 50uf cap electro on the same board.

Don't forget to reflow the two ground stakes on the far right end of the chroma board. They exist in only one of two states: cracked or gonna crack soon. :D That kills the heaters on the 6GU7s, launching the CRT beam current into avalanche. :eek:

yeah, touching the wrong thing in THAT thing will probubly be the last thing you ever do.....

Naw, it'll just get your attention right quick. Benn there, dunn that. :o:dammit:

I have all of it on a PDF. Give me a PM.
Phil

Looks like the previous owner was a smoker.

I like it! :-) CTC-16's are pretty reliable once you get the bugs out!

It's listed in the 1964 catalogue

"The Brindis" Mark 10 Series HF-865
Delicately decorated Italian Procincial lowboy in selected hardwood solids with veneers of Antiqued Florentine Walnut or Antiqued Brushed White finish, 120 watts peak power (60 watts EIA), frequency response 45 to 20,000 cps. Two 12" Disphonic dui-cone speakers plus six 3 1/2" tweeters. Deluxe 9-tube FM/AM Radio with FM Stereo. Lighted phono compartment, FM Stereo indicator, tuning controls. Plug-in jack for stereo headphones (headphones optional extra). H-30 7/8" ; W-62 1/8" ; D-26 3/8".

combo
 

hey good luck with your find, i have 2 of these things now, 1 from late64 the other one from late 65, love those combos. if i can be of any help with spare parts dont hesitate to ask.

i would like to thank everyone for their comments and suggestions !!
I did power it up slowly with the HOT un plugged seemed ok.
Brought it up slowly with HOT back in the set as I got a hint of HV tick the degauss thermistors got hot and smoked.
I pulled the chassis for closer inspection.
The tuner and amp work but left channel is weak. (not worried about that now)

no reason to powr up slowing with the HOT in place. you want to do a full power up to make sure the osc starts and the HOT does not overheat.

what was the HOT cathode current before you ended the test?

It was about 150 mA I heard HV crackel then smoke from thermistor area.

Replaced thermistor and lytics. hot cathode current 214mA hv 24 kv,focus voltage 5 kv boost voltage 1100 v. No color yet . I shook the camera picture is much sharper in person.

how does the crt checkout?

fine tuning adj, check color osc tube/burst amp. Make sure those wires on the top of the chroma board are not corroded. could be the Xtal if the osc is runing way off you will not even see the color bars of a out of sync osc.

try and get that cathode current lower if possible. Flybacks are getting harder to come by. My avitar is a 16XL. If everything is working correctly, You should get a nice sharp color pic when done. :-)

I noticed those 2 brown wires had mean green on the ends. I replaced them when I did the lytcs. The leader will show bars (no color though) and a bright white square. Will keep checking out.

if the bars are not moving you can try adj A16 a little bit but keep track to get it back to where you started in case it does not work. you 1/2 turn either way should be enough. If that does not do it, and you have color bars, I would guess the Xtal is bad. I have had several like that. Of course if you have a scope you could just start looking for the proper wave forms on the chroma board.

Replaced the Xtal. I have color. In the wrong places LOL !!
Merry Christmas to all

Back on the RCA. Went through the color alignment on the sams. It didn't do much. Color bars are all wrong.

It kinda looks like one of the demods isn't working.
If you turn the tint control stop to stop, is there a signifigant shift in the color bars?

Turning the tint I can get the red bar (in my last 2 posts red bar should be yellow) to turn blue.

checked v21 pin 5 253v,pin 6 139v, pin 2 104 ohms to ground
v23 is similar in voltage pin 2 is 157 ohms to ground.

Need a break. Knees dont want to work anymore :no:

Is green missing?
Check your 6GU7s and the little red drop caps that drive them. Also remove the chassis and rock the power resistors around the 6GU7s watching for the pins to move on the bottom of the board.
I can almost guarantee there are cracked or weak solders in that area.
I use the same generator, it sounds like your on the right track

I will check the board. Thanks !! (Your youtube channel is great !! )

Finally found some time to get back to this. It has been to long.
Well I was thinking about what ctc17 asked me about there being no green.
I tested the 21fj when I first got the set and only the blue gun looked weak it would get better when the filaments were on for about an hour and then re-checking. This was with an old beltron tester. I got a sencore 7000 and re-checked the tube about the same no g1 or hk shorts,cutoff passed,and emission hi tracking passed.:dunno:
Next I found a rca test jig 10j106 and tried the chassis on the bench.
I had to make the crt plug adapter from tube base pins and a brightner socket
but it works. I have color on the test jig just turned a16 1 turn in and it locked. Great I have color-----but when I hook back up to the 21fjp22 IT is still the same :thumbsdn: as before color is all wrong.
I found pin 6 of the crt socket loose and tightened it (no good)
The crt passed the tests on 2 different testers and the chassis makes color on a test jig but they wont work together.:tears:

By the way the screen is burnt in the center (dot) and my camera is crap there is green

Just a SWAG here, but did you degauss the 21" and check the purity rings?

I did degauss the crt many times. Did not touch any neck parts yet.

purity is a must do. Dequass ground the G1s thru 100k reistors (you need 2 one for each G1). Cut off the G and B and see if you get a uniform red raster. If not you will need to do the purity setup. Be careful when sliding the yoke around with the power on. the windings can bite....

Generally if purity is a issue the colors of reg programming will be off depending on the location of the screen (so if you had a green field, some of it will be green with other areas not so much.


If you suspect Green then use the resistors to cut off the R and B guns. You can also just turn down the screen drives, but I like the resistors as I dont like constantly adj the G2 drives.

oh and start out with the G and B G1 drive pots at max, refer to the gray scale setup for the exact procedure.

be aware that adj the convergence and purity interact, so you want the purity set right 1st before spending a lot of time on convergence. You will have to adj things a few times to get the best performance.

Thanks Dave I will see if I can get a good raster. I am going slowly on this set . i dont want to mess it up.

The pics are red,green,and blue. (LOL)
Pic 1 g1 of green and blue grounded
pic 2 g1 of red and blue grounded
pic 3 g1 of red and green grounded
White raster fed with my leader gen.
Programming from cable box has similar results
:thumbsdn:
(Do I need a 1000 amp 3 phase degaussing coil? lol)

The blobs of incorrect color look like classic bad purity to me. The Sams manual should have a section on purity adjustment. Work through that as Dave suggested.

Phil Nelson

Well here is a pic of it after a quick purity setup and degaussing.:banana:
It gets better the longer it runs. I have been using it for about 2 hours and it seems ok at 189mA cathode current. Until it goes through a cold start and the auto gedauss is used. It kills the purity again. Unplug degauss coils and it will be fine over several startups. So I am thinking the thermistors,varistors are of the incorrect value ? Causing current flow to be to abrupt (on/off)magnatizing the crt ? The coil measures 9.6 ohms