magnavox roundie
 

hey all i am picking up a magnavox roundie, phono, radio combo thursday but was wondering what type of chassis did they use. did they use there own type or did they use an rca type clone. everything is said to work including the tv,screen does light up with the fuzz because of no antennea so it sounds good but ill see. and yes its really big and probably heavy as well. yet another roundie saved...:yes:

In the beginning they were RCA clones, but maggie eventually began designing their own chassis. I'm not very familiar with the time frame that they made clones in so I can't tell you what you have, though others here may.

i dont know the year because i was told its not on the back nor do i know when the roundies stopped, maybe 66-67 but this one im sure this is befor 66 it looks it.

they were making rectangulars by '66

Timmy, you will be picking up one of the best combo consoles there were when you go to get that Magnavox. Those sets were made during Magnavox's heyday, when the company was based in Fort Wayne, Indiana and the sets were top quality, like Zeniths and RCAs of that era. When you get yours working at peak efficiency you will have an entertainment unit anyone would be proud to own.

Magnavox was still making roundies in 1965. I think their first (or one of their first) rectangular sets was probably their fabulous 25" 3-way color-theatre console, which was introduced in 1966. This set was top-of-the-line, with stereo phono, AM/FM radio, 25-inch TV of course, and a remote control system that could control the entire set, including record reject, from the hand unit. These sets sold for premium prices as well -- I doubt if anyone could so much as touch one for under $800 when they were new, and they were big as all get out. These were not meant for people living in small apartments; I'm sure most folks who could afford one had living rooms at least the size of the state of Texas.

I don't want to think of what a job it must have been to transport these sets. Today there are inventions such as Moving Men, small pads with some sort of casters or other mechanisms set into them that fit under the four corners of a heavy piece of furniture to allow same to be moved without wrecking one's back or worse; however, when these Maggie consoles were new, I'm sure moving them was a real challenge, and more than one person wound up straining his back trying.

Pictures? :drool::drool:

I'd love to have a roundie combo. I have no idea where I'd put it, but I'd make room somewhere.:yes::yes:

Its another one of your favorite 6JE6 hv sets. Probably uses a Fly 305 which is the same as a ctc15 flyback mounted on a slanted frame.
Have fun :arrow::arrow:

yep, my '66 rect. maggy has the 6JE6 horiz out... it pays to keep a close eye on cathode current!

well ill see just how good it is soon enough. this crt is grey in color but what is the difference between the green and grey color of the face. i know the green ones were early but were the grey ones the replacements? maybe this one was replaced. i will post pics when i get it.....

Green comes frome the bonding material between the tube and safety glass. Zenith style. Maybe this one has timmy flavored jello or the rca style. Maybe the cataract has been removed already

:drool:ahhhhh, ok.....

I have one of these sets that I picked up in October of 2011. Bruce got the purity and the convergence set up on it, and it produces a great picture. I think you'll be very pleased by the quality of your set, built when Magnavox was at the top of it's game!

tomorrow is the day......... the BIG pickup......

If the stereo receiver is an "Astrosonic"(solid state), then it's a '64 or newer(will also have UHF). If it's all vacuum tube, '63 or older(may have Optional UHF). Mine is a '62 or '63 model with the CTC-15 clone chassis, no UHF and all tube stereo tuner and amplifier. I'm hoping to get it all going this spring. LOTS of recapping.

i thought the ctc15 came out around 64-65. ctc12 62-63?

CTC-16 64-65. I have 2 CTC-16's form '65. I know they had them in '64. Doug's '64 CTC-16: http://www.youtube.com/user/drh4683#.../0/V2uHthZPsVU

well i got the set but i want to check the crt which is an rca and it says on the cabinet that it came with a 21fbp22 but the one in it says on the crt sticker h-19vabp22 rare earth hy lite, so would this be tested the same as a 21 fbp22. i guess it was replaced at one time. well i edited this i checked the crt as a 21fbp22 and there is good emissions readings but the life test the needle drops a little fast on each gun. the scale says anything over 200 is good so the red was 325,green 500, blue 500 . it has hv but no pic or snow so the tubes have to be checked so now i have to tear it all apart for caps since it has a nasty 60hz hum and the am-fm is soild state so its got to be around 1965.

All 22 series tubes use the same tester setup?

Did you clear the shorts and condem the HV yet? :smsex:

yes cleared the shorts and thats when i got the good readings. and no i did not condem the hv since i have to get another probe. 22 series?

xxxxx22

:drool:i dont get it...............

21fjp22
21fbp22
21fuq22
25ap22
25gp22
25vap22
22jp22
22fuc22
19ep22

on and on and on

They are trying to say that the "22" series CRT's will use the same testing protocols. Yes you can test it as a 21***22. Leave it on the tester all night at 6.3V and see if it's better in the morning. They usually always do better when they are awakened from a 30 year slumber. DO NOT REJUVENATE! All solid state tuner/amp means it's a '64 or '65. Probably a 16 clone. 60 cycle hum=new electrolytics. It wont do much until that's corrected. Any pics? Does the stereo/amp work?

the ac hum was so bad that i got a little noise from the tuner but i shut it down because of the caps. did a quick check of tubes and no wonder i got nothing on the crt because the video output tube was so bad it lit up all different colors with shorts. and no didnt do any rejuv. the whole set is in pieces now. i dont have a schematic for this chassis but would you know what the cathode current should be and what pin on the 6je6 for cathode current,#3 or #5.

Pin 3 is what you want. Pin 5 is the heater ground.

any idea what the cathode current should be?

190-220ma

Whats the model/chassis number?

thanks CTC17

on these magnavox stereo solid state, the cap right of the 2 diodes b+ right off the power transformer 30 volt 1000uf gets hot then vents. checked the output transistors for shorts and none and tried another cap, no good. the cap used to come from a can cap but im useing single caps which i used 50v 1000uf instead of the 30v.

Do you have the cap reversed? Observe polarity with electrolytics. Double check or they will just keep venting.

the one lead of the can is + and the base of the can is soldered to the chassis and thats how i put the new one clipped the 1 wire and the diodes put them to + on the new cap and grounded the other lead. dont make sence to me...

ok i got it as the cap was in wrong and i traced it to the neg side of the output transistor, so its positive ground. i dont have a schematic for this unit. well the astro sonic sounds really good but the speaker selector switch has both, external, but what does INT stand for.

INT is Internal.

That was good that your backward capacitor(s) only vented and did not go ka-POW! I have never blown one up but I heard stories from co-workers who did after they put one in backward.

Hello Int means the speaker that our in the console itself,,, Timothy

..so the INT means the speakers that are contained in the console.. Sure means that in our console.

I mistaked and put a litic cap in a stereo peace the wrong way +.
But really I was lucky I didnt have a lytic explosion when I was starting out.

this stereo is strange because can caps i thought were all the same and the cap had no special markings to indicate positive ground. so this cap had 2 in the one and the 2 leads we assume are positive but in this case they were negative and this is where i went wrong. so according to what the speaker switch shows is that if you switch to both, then this means the internal speakers and external speakers will play or switch to external then it shuts off the internal and leaves on the external, did i get it correct this time,lol...

You are correct.

I've always loved the Maggie entertainment centers. I started doing TV repairs on a few of them, and was given a few to strip... I'd sure like to have those stripped sets today! Look forward to seeing a picture of the turntable. The Collaro built Micromatic was great. I never tossed a turntable out of a Maggie, either. They got used in projects because they usually worked fine after a tad of oiling.

Have you checked out the circuit breaker on your set? Are you getting B+ ?

When I first opened my shop, I had the misfortune of having 3 Maggie Entertainment Centers all at the same time come in for service. I couldn't move in the repair shop area without running into one. Long story short, I wound up owning 2 of them. Replaced CRT's on both, cleaned the controls and tuners and sold both of them and never saw either of them again. I like to think they are still playing somewhere...

Good luck with this, Timmy

Bruce

who knows maybe this set is one you sold. finishing the cabinet little more on the stereo tuner then the tv chassis.ill post pics when its done. tubes, breaker, caps, resistors left to go on the chassis and solder joints all have to be done yet.crt was replaced with an rca hylite and tests very good so it should look good. and i also got a spare flyback should i need it in the future.is there any secrets i should know about these maggies besides the stereo tuner being positive ground, i found out with a venting cap. the turn table runs but it needs a needle which i may have one and also needs cleaning up as well and the center spacer to play 45s is missing which is the only thing missing from the whole set.