Weekend CRT Cateract remove
 

Well if it's warm here I might try the Sun method to remove the faceplate on my 21 CRT. I'm hoping it works. 21FJP22. From what I've heard the Sun works good and much safer I hope.

it works pretty good. Leave it out for a couple of hours. You still may have to use a heat gun but maybe not.

Only a 12" area is still bonded. The rest is pretty bad so I'm hoping for the best.

RACS says the best way to remove the panel is to put the tube into an oven, slowly raising the temperature to around 350*F. Of course, I've never seen a consumer over large enough to accommodate a tube that large.

take pictures and post your steps

even light pressure around the perimeter during the exposure to the sun. I use WOOD clothspins, dig out some of the pva around the edge and tap them in LIGHTLY just snug. Check them after about 10-20 min and re tap them in.

Assuming this is the white hard pva not the green goo.

Heh, got a pizza store near by? ;)

Most of the pizza ovens I've seen have long narrow openings.
If the PVA is that bad, I would use the sunlite and guitar string method.

Popsicle or tongue depressors too and stack/wedge them as required. Just keep in mind about tapping or "pushing" them in and knowing when to walk away. Also, take some duct or packing tape and loosely tie the mask to the crt. That way, if it happens to pop off it won't go crashing down to the ground!

I would avoid guitar strings on the RCA catarcts. Save that for the green Zenith ones. You may scratch the crt with the strings. Wood or plaric wedges are the best route. If it's mostly gone, it should be relatively easy. make sure you have some weight in the can the crt is in and put a blanket around the can or put it on the grass in case the lens slips out of your hands.

Does the PVA remain soft after the glass pops off? or do I leave it in the sun to keep it soft??? I'm hoping for good weather tomorrow. Thanks guys.

Put a black plastic trash bag over the top to help absorb and trap the heat. If its 90+ it will come off in some hours. pva is like flexible soft plastic that peals off in chunks.

Use small pieces of double stick tape along the edge as spacers to reattach the glass then seal with silicone 1. Seal while crt is hot/warm so pressure is reduced as it cools off.

Plenty of videos from me and others on youtube.

Hot wire is for green halo only zenith style only.

Be careful and use safety gear!

pizza that sounds good to

Thanks for the help guys. Like I say hoping for warm in Wisconsin tomorrow.

If you use a 5 gallon bucket (most are deep enough for a roundy CRT or a rectangular with the neck hardware and convergence board still attached) it is usually rather stable and likely not as top heavy as I envision a trash can would be.

now its time for that pizza its friday

Well as Wisconsin weather has it mostly cloudy today. Damm. Well still have Sunday.

Well a weekend of mostly cloudy days. 90's comming in during the week. Hope to do this CRT then.

I'm trying it . Gladbag would also protect phosphors from UV?

Yes, it should and it'll also help it absorb more heat. Good luck!

I have thought about taking several out to death valley to get the lenses off. It gets so hot out there the trash bag would melt to the glass. The thing would be off in 20 minutes

Are phosphors sensitive to sun/UV esposure? Enlighten me please - first I've heard that.

Just a suspicion; I would worry about TVs in sunny shop windows.
But maybe tinted safety plate filters most UV like airplane windows
are treated to protect people from high altitude UV.

I've never heard of UV bothering them; I guess if they can stand up to being hit by electrons they can handle sunlight? Uneducated, though.

i hope you get some sunny days i want to see you do your picture tube job and keep posting lots of pic's,didnt someone say to leave it soaking in water before wedging off the lenz.

Some of us have mentioned this before in multiple posts. During the downtime between sunny days it wouldn't hurt to be soaking it. The PVA will soften up around it's edges but it takes awhile. I've had good success this way.

then thats what i would be doing while i wait for the right day ,im basicly lazzy anytime i can get some prep methed to save me work time im there.

If it's the green halo type, then it wont work. Has to be the RCA type black moldy looking stuff. The green ones are a Pain in the a$$!
Snelson, yours does not need any work. No cataracts. Just clean and reinstall.

no im not thinking about the zenith its the magnavox i have that needs it.looks like i have a green pain in the caboose.

on the subject of the uv causing any problem ,are all phosphors made the same ,can being exposed to the sun for extened amounts time cause it to lighten ? there are more than just uv in sunlight ,i can see his concern if your not sure of something its better to safe then sorry,for years they said that if your computer is left on the same picture it could burn the image on the phosphor ,iv never seen one ,its a interesting question though.

I would leave that little bit of green alone, not worth the hassle of removing the CRT from the set.

However if you really want to do it, the green is soft, almost like a jelly, a thin music wire with a couple wood handles to grab it with can be used to slice under the lens, kind of saw thru the goo. Its a pita to clean up, very sticky gets everywhere, wear some old clothes...

Oh yes Nelson. Old TV sets that had Atari 2600 systems connected to them....or used as security monitors will have this burn-in if they were like that for a LONG time or the contrast was really high.

The BEST example of this is to go find an old Pac-Man arcade machine and turn it off. The "maze" on almost every one of 'em are burned in. You just don't usually see it unless the tinted glass isn't covering it, or you are servicing it and put up a blank raster.

This also is the biggest drawback to plasma sets.....super high contrast, and watching material with "bars" either top to bottom (letterbox) or side to side (SD)....WILL start to burn them. I even have a Viewsonic LCD that did the same thing. It's not a "burn" in LCD...it's called "persistance" and has to be exercised out.

MAYBE sunlight COULD do this, but it wouldn't be too obvious unless you did something weird like blocked HALF of the CRT from sun. My only curiosity is if all this HEAT does something to the phosphors...or the mask.

And Dave. That "string or wire with handles" is an old trick for us who play with customizing cars. You use a similar setup to cut through the 3M adhesive that holds something like the "Kia" emblem on your Kia Soul's bonnet. MUCH safer than heat guns and PRYING on paint...even with masking tape. I would imagine you DON'T want to be prying on or jamming tools between the CRT and a glass plate.

In the early 80's when I was in high school I was in a computer explorer post through the Boy scouts at a local major carrier insurance company using their IBM 370 to learn how to program in COBOL (ugh!!). All the terminals in the company would display their company logo on the screen(all were green phosphor monitors) any time whey weren't being used. There was no screen savers or automatic power off for inactivity. Every single crt in every terminal I saw while I was there had a burned in image of that logo. I remember that computer being huge and it had 40 hard disk drives attached to it. Each one was the size of a top load washing machine!! Now I have a little 8GB flash drive in my pocket that cost me $10 that can probably hold as much data as 3-4 of those washing machines combined if not more.

yep the wire works well on the green since it can cut thru it, but on the RCA tubes the PVA (or what ever it is) is rock hard. I even tried heating some SS wire with a variac (I used to cut foam wings for model airplanes that way), even red hot the hard PVA was too much for it.

I disagree on Zenith cataracts being difficult. For someone like me who does not have a ton of patience Zenith style cataracts are more fun. The only parts that may be less enjoyable are that 'distilled essence of new vinyl' smell and the stickiness of the PVA, but they don't really bug me. All one needs to do is get the tube preped in the bucket, make the paddle and wire(no 18 single strand guitar string works well), do as I did in the below video, roll the PVA off the safety glass and tube(which sometimes don't go well on newer tubes),get tube face and safety glass spotless with Goof Off and Windex, and reattach the safety glass.
http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/...actremoval.jpg

Here is a link to an album I created last summer when I taught my self the Zenith process(and ruined an RCA type CRT:thumbsdn:).
http://s1095.photobucket.com/albums/...nal/?start=all

i think your answer should be more directed at mstaton, he was telling me im doing the asking. smile this is supposed to be fun !

I was just saying the RCA ones are MUCH easier. I've only done 1 Zenith rectangle 22'. It's messy and nasty. I did it in the house during the winter and covered up the floor with blankets but I still managed to get a bit on the carpet. I sawed through it with guitar strings. Not as easy as you think since it want to restick itself after you cut through. I used some heat to help soften it up. The RCA PVA does not stick to things and yes it smells like a new kiddie swimming pool. The zenith stuff looks like boogers and it has a nasty odor. I'm sure it's not good for you either.

man i guess everyone has had there own fight with pva to get so different response . i like the boogers analogy.

Yours doesnt look too bad snelson, maybe leave yours alone, The maggie that is.

ill take your info ,when i restore the maggie i planed on doing it ,looking at that green margin will bother me i know it ,i want a nice sharp picture. i was thinking how about a large pan of water set it on a double hot plate then place the picture tube in it for a day maybe two ,water temp 120 -150 youll have to add already heated water time to time but that might soften the pva has anyone ever tryed that i wonder.