Here is the '61 CTC11 Wakely from Racine WI
 

Here is the CTC11 Wakely set that I picked up last summer in Racine WI. Since I have two 11 sets I figured I'd work on them both at the same time. I'm working on recapping the one from MN right now. Anyways, I recapped this one over a short vacation I took from work. Restuffed all the cans, I used the cut them off the chassis method this time, that was a big time saver for sure. I put them back together with J-B weld. I managed to recap the entire set and do the cans in 8 hours. I replaced every brown drop on the chassis. Doing that made the vertical work much better than it did with the brown caps. I may have to check a resistor or two related to the linearity though, I can get it really close but I think it can be better. I powered it up that afternoon, and was greeted with the same
black screen it had when it died a few months ago. (Yeah, I ran it on original parts until it died, sue me:D ) This time I heard the crackle of HV though so I thought yay! It was only the fact that so many controls were in random positions from cleaning them. I was able to get a nicely converged picture and much better focus. The focus was always soft before. The only issues I'm having with it are the width seems a little short and the chroma has a soft bar of incorrect tint rolling upward all the time. The HOT is on the older side though, I should change it. That may help width. As for the color issue, it can be reduced by turning the Horiz. to the left almost to where it unlocks. The bars never really disappear though. This is what it was doing before the recap, it also still has a bit of dot crawl. It's getting much better but I have to track down all this stuff. I really need go dig out my RCA manual so I can properly check all my voltages, current and resistance readings. The cabinet is another story, I'll concentrate on that after the chassis is all good. Before applying veneer I plan to try and save the original with an artist brush, some paints, lacquer, time and a prayer. If it turns out like crap I won't feel as bad for gluing new stuff over it. It would most likley look the best with veneer but I'd rather it be original if at all possible. Either way, it's going to look nice.
Here are the pics of it, sorry there's so many.
This is what I started with.....yes, that is how I used it (or abused it)
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...1/IMG_0365.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...1/IMG_0366.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...1/IMG_0384.jpg
I was able to find some new HV socket cups, I changed them in both 11's
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...1/IMG_0398.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...1/IMG_0408.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...1/IMG_0419.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...1/IMG_0422.jpg http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...1/IMG_0424.jpg
I was able to remove all the cadmium crap off, this pic shows a little still there.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...1/IMG_0425.jpg
Kinda reminds me of a CTC4 with the top off.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...1/IMG_0428.jpg
Obligatory nighttime tube shot:D
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...1/IMG_0430.jpg
Finally a damn screen shot.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...1/IMG_0433.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...1/IMG_0434.jpg

PS I didn't type all stupid like that. I copied and pasted and that's what I got.

You can edit the text in your previous posts. Click the Edit button in the lower right of that post.

Phil Nelson

I know, I'm just too lazy:rolleyes: techincally, I could edit yours too;) Thanks Phil:D

Mark, What a great set. There should be no thermal issues with the top off like that. If I did that, my cat would get a nasty surprise if he decides to jump on top for a nap.
The re-cap looks like it helps considering the brown drops are nowhere close to being as troublesome as wax-papers and bumblebees.

I have the blonde version which is also the called Wakely. The cabinet is photo-finish and in good shape. I DID run it with the original parts since 1986 when I got it as a low-hours set, never leaving the room!, until about 5 years ago when it showed signs of impending electrolytic failure. My focus is somewhat squirelly too, very dependent on the brightness setting (beam current).

The model number of mine is 212G837MV
Whats your model number?

Thanks! The top was off only for the pics and while I was working on it. My cat would jump in there too:) I did a "CTC4" style convergence setup on it like that. This one was full of brown drops and I decided to change every one of them as several were leaky/drifty in the vert out section. It really improved all aspects of the set. The only originals are ceramic disc and the few real orange drops, there was like 5 in there. My other 11 OTOH, is full of orange drops and only has a few brown. I also just got a 7 loaded with paper/wax caps and a lot of others had brown drops. I guess they just used whatever they had at the time. I'm unfamiliar with the focus setup in these, I'm still searching for my RCA manual. Isn't it some type of feedback system that uses that coil slug to tune it. Until I have the schematic in my hand I'm afraid to mess with it much. The recap made it much better though. It only goes out of focus slightly when there is too much of any color on the screen (like text with a red, green or blue background) it will pull in on the sides like it's being loaded down, it's not really blooming but you would think so when you first see it do it. It will bloom slightly with the brightness up but it has to be up beyond where you would set it.

I'd like to see a pic of your Wakely. You made me realize that I do not own one blonde color set. I love brunettes but blonds are beautiful too:D My model is 212G835MV pretty close, only one number different.

that picture looks awesome.convergence looks spot on too.beautiful restoration.post more pics of the fabulous picture on this set.i will never tire of seeing them

Hey Ron, Sure! I can post as many as you want. This thing gets used everyday, almost all day long. The weekends it's on almost 20 hours day sometimes:yikes: Plenty of screen shot opportunities:D I know it's gets run a lot, but it's a daily driver for a while. I really need to get the chroma section sorted out. That bar of incorrect tint rolling through all the time drives me nuts, it's not really noticeable but it annoys me. I think a cap or tube is leaky/shorted. I changed all the brown drops but there are some original orange drops in the chroma. It did this before the recap too so I know it's not something I did. Any suggestions anyone??

I recall from a TV service book a picture of a set with the color really screwed up from a heater-cathode short. Could also be that the color osc. slug is RIGHT at the edge of color synch lock(though when that happened to me it would go in and out of synch during warmup and the first 30minutes on...not really a periodic event like what you describe).

I just cringed a little. I do think the CRT developed a H/K short. It flashes blue sometimes with retrace and showed a short when tapping on the neck while testing last week. It wasn't shorted last year when I got it. I guess it's time for an isolation brightener unless I can put it face down and get it to clear by tapping on it. It always had the odd color issue but the short seems to be something new going on, unless it was always there and is now getting noticeable.

I was talking about a signal tube HK short, but it couldn't hurt to try isolating the CRT filament.

I swapped all the chassis tubes already to no avail, I think it's the CRT. That's what I figured too, what can it hurt?

Yikes! :eek: That's a bad omen.
If the jug does have an H-K short, one symptom will be loss of luma. I.e., video information will be gone while chroma is unaffected (since chroma goes in via the grids).
The problem with using an isolation brightener is: added capacitance-to-ground which will smear out fine detail in the pic.

A dirty service switch can mimic a H-K short in the CRT (killing the luma). Give the service switch a squirt of cleaner and work it a few times, just to eliminate that as a possibility.

At least it's not an AXP...
Which reminds me, FIX YOUR DAMN WINGATE!!! lol

You don't have to use the brightener exactly as designed. Most brighteners are just a socket and a base with jumpers between all pins, but the ones for the filament, where the transformer that makes it more than just a socket extender is connected. You could just unsolder the CRT socket filament wires of the set at the point where they are soldered to the chassis and insert the isolation brightener filament transformer there...That way you would get all the isolation and none of the capacitance video smear.

That wouldn't help a bit, because the offending capacitance occurs between the secondary and primary windings of the transformer itself (the primary being grounded).

As a side note, on some solid state sets that have the CRT heaters running off the flyback ("scan-derived" supply), you can isolate an H-K short without getting the smearing. That's because the capacitance-to-ground is negligible when you 'float' the heaters and their supply winding.

UPDATE: I was able to clear the H/K short on the CRT by tapping the neck, hasn't done it since. The color issue was a either a bad 6EW6 or 6GH8 (what a surprise) They tested good but one of 'em must be shorted slightly. Anyways, the color is stunning now and the width improved with a new HOT. The convergence is slightly off again but not bad enough, I'll fix it by this weekend. Here are some screen shots, just for you Ron!:D The black and white shots turned a bit red in the pictures but the set looks fine in person, the camera added a bit of sepia.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...1/IMG_0574.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...1/IMG_0580.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...1/IMG_0600.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...1/IMG_0615.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...1/IMG_0622.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...1/IMG_0639.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...1/IMG_0641.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...1/IMG_0567.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...1/IMG_0559.jpg

Looking at the picture of the early Stooges, there was product placement back then.
It's strange seeing one of those sets without a UHF tuner.
It was one of the first sets I bought and sold back in 1966. I paid $100.00 for it back then. That one also had an H-K short in the CRT.

As an aside, I LOVE watching The Stooges, if for no other reason than you DO get a glimpse of life as it was back in the Thirties & Forties, & get to see all those lovely old cars as they were REALLY used...The Roundie ain't bad, neither...(grin)

thanks for posting.isnt it amazing how good cartoons look on our roundies?beautiful set and great job restoring

Thanks Ron! Yes, it is amazing. Try watching a very high quality Anime on one sometime, your jaw will drop! Here pretty soon (like a week) I'll be fixing the broken cabinet on this one, I have a lot more confidence that it will turn out nice after the way the CTC7 did. Then maybe, just MAYBE the whole set will look as nice as the picture does.:D

simply awesome. i have a ctc 7 and a ctc 10. steve

what did you use to clean the chassis. looks like new. steve

Excellent, and the weather gal ain't bad either. :yes:

Great pictures!

Nothing better than watching quality color programming via tubes.

I love the gray and gold accented escutcheon on that model.

I use a toothbrush, little cup of water with Dawn dish soap and some microfiber cloths. It even cleaned up the cad dust without a problem. I was very hesitant about compressed air with all of that stuff on it.

I really like it too, It's my favorite 11 bezel. I was lucky enough to find two 11's that have the separate safety glass and this bezel. My other set, after refinishing, IMHO will be absolutely gorgeous with the real mahogany veneer and solids.

She's cute, but I've seen better. I liked the old weather girl more. Believe it or not, her name was Amy Freeze.LOL!:D The one thing I really liked about this girl was her dress, it looked very good on her, and my tv set:)

Here are some screen shots that are motion blurred. Although, I still really like them for some reason:D
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...1/IMG_0656.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...1/IMG_0655.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...1/IMG_0653.jpg

You cleaned that chassis up beautifully. Very nice peekture too. :D

I adjusted the HOT cathode current tonight, the best I could get was 209mA. Not the best but better than the 218 that it was. I'll have to do some more checking as to why it won't come down a bit more. I also noticed the 6BK4 glowing brighter than I've ever seen before. What causes that?? My other CTC11 does it too but none of my other sets.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...1/IMG_0669.jpg

What is HV set at? If the regulator is glowing, there may be something awry with the grid bias circuit causing it to draw too much current. You can check by putting a current meter set to 0-1ma in the cathode circuit; with brightness at minimum you should have .8-1ma on the meter, and HV should be whatever the manual says. Usually around 23kv. If the regulator circuit checks out, roll 6BK4's you might have a bad one. There are more rugged versions on the streets, I have a 6BK4C from Tandy that looks like it has way heavier plate structure. But since I run most of my regs at minimum all the time, I never have this problem.

It's funny for me to see any TV that old with UHF! It wasn't until Christmas 1966 that we had a TV with UHF in it, a 23" Silvertone with the orange UHF dial peeking out of a notch in the VHF knob...

Thanks for the tips Nick. I have the HV set at 24Kv like the manual says. I wanted to check the regulator current the other night when I set the HOT current but the 9V in my meter died:rolleyes: I'll look into it tonight since I've replaced the battery. I'll bet some resistors are bad in that circuit. I'll check those too and report back. The 6BK4 is the original one but I tried two others with the same result so something is up with the chassis....

As I mentioned in a few previous threads, Milwaukee had UHF since mid-1953. It irked many TV owners, since Milwaukee had only two VHF channels, 4 & 12. It was a costly option, both in conversions and new set extra cost.

I plan on taking the chassis out tonight and looking at it, is there anything else I should check while I'm in there? Any known trouble spots in the CTC11 horizontal circuit? Everything else is working fine. Thanks!!:D

That is one fantastic looking picture and the set itself looks nice too. You guys have got it so good having tube colour sets in abundance over there. What's sad is that I have never seen a colour tv with tubes in it apart from the CRT itself. All our native colour tvs were solid state. Someday I Hope to visit the USA and would love to see some colour roundies in flesh :D
Cheers Glen

While you have the chassis out, I would replace any remaining "brown drops" on the horizontal board. My CTC-11s worked "purty good" with the old caps in place, but they worked better after I got rid of the old "drops" on both of the sweep boards. Those caps don't seem to fail catastrophically like papers, but they are not immortal. Same deal, only more so, with my CTC-7; it couldn't make a coherent picture at all with the old dipped caps in place.

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
http://antiqueradio.org/index.html

I too had a CTC-7 loaded with brown drops, At 1st I was glad they were not papers like the CTC-5 I had just finished. I ended up replacing nearly every single one of the brown drops, In my case they were leaky just like the papers. Something odd with those brown drops, some seem to fall into two failure modes, leaking (not often) and lossy (often).

I found some shorted Sprague orange drops in my Zenith roundy so I don't trust that type as much as I used to either.

There were brown drops in the set, they are all gone after I recapped it. Projects are on hold for a bit, I'll post more when I get back to it again. Prolly a month at least.....:sigh: