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-   -   1971 Sylvania TV - Need Help with Horizontal Hold (http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=261724)

rodmonster 05-29-2014 07:45 AM

1971 Sylvania TV - Need Help with Horizontal Hold
 
I am a collector of all things old... as the pic indicates below. That's my "toy" room.
I have a 1971 Sylvania TV 27inch that I keep in my collection room. When I bought it - it turned on fast but the picture turns at an angle.
I finally talked a TV repair shop to come out. They ended up taking it back to their shop. 6 weeks later and 380 dollars later... they kind of fixed it. It would only work with one type of VCR... it still pulled a little on top and bottom. but it worked. They said it was the best that could be done for a 43 year old TV. So I went with it and set it back up.
It lasted 2 weeks with just a few hours of use. Now its pulling horizontally again and no tweaking on the knobs and controls will pull it straight again.
My grandfather was a TV and Appliance repairmen from the 50s to the 90s. I wish I had paid more attention when I watched him repair things... I am an IT guy... but not an old school repair guy.
So my question is - is there anything I can do to work on it myself... or better yet is there anyone from the forum here that lives in the Northern Virginia area that would be willing to look her over and help me out?
I have posted a few pics of it working and then now - not again.
THANKS ALL!!

My pics are in the introduction area here...

http://videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=261723

THANKS!!!

zeno 05-29-2014 10:55 AM

You will probably never get the horz perfect with a VCR.
Every set I have seen before the mid 70's would have hoz tearing.
They wernt made to run on a non standard signal.
Try running a DVD through the VCR A/V inputs or use a cable box
with a RF output.

73 Zeno:smoke:

DaveWM 05-29-2014 10:55 AM

71 and it does not have a horz hold control? The pic in your orig post shows a complete loss of horz sync.

rodmonster 05-29-2014 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zeno (Post 3105414)
You will probably never get the horz perfect with a VCR.
Every set I have seen before the mid 70's would have hoz tearing.
They wernt made to run on a non standard signal.
Try running a DVD through the VCR A/V inputs or use a cable box
with a RF output.

73 Zeno:smoke:

Hello!
It is actually a DVD / VCR combo. Both ran ok at first... the DVD was MUCH MUCH better though...
But now it wont straighten out at all....
=(

rodmonster 05-29-2014 01:18 PM

Hc
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveWM (Post 3105415)
71 and it does not have a horz hold control? The pic in your orig post shows a complete loss of horz sync.

It does have a control on the front to tune and the AGC on the back. But the picture posted is as far as I can get it to straighten up by tuning each of those controls so far.

Username1 05-29-2014 03:23 PM

You need to look for a control called Horizontal Hold, most likely it will be in the
front of the tv, maybe inside a secret little door that only you may know....
It may just say Horiz. But I'm gunna stick to it should be in the front.....
Trun that one a little, and the picture should straighten out. Then later
if you need to, you can turn the AGC, it should be in the back....

rodmonster 05-29-2014 04:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Username1 (Post 3105433)
You need to look for a control called Horizontal Hold, most likely it will be in the
front of the tv, maybe inside a secret little door that only you may know....
It may just say Horiz. But I'm gunna stick to it should be in the front.....
Trun that one a little, and the picture should straighten out. Then later
if you need to, you can turn the AGC, it should be in the back....

That's exactly what I did before. Unfortunately after turning them both.... that's the best i can get out of the picture. . Rhanks.

zeno 05-29-2014 07:29 PM

Post the model number off the back. Also the chassis number
off the chassis. Chassis # will be D10 D12 or something like that.
Usually on a paper tag or ink printed on chassis rear. I should
have the manual & maybe can find something easy.

73 Zeno:smoke:

rodmonster 05-30-2014 08:08 AM

Model
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by zeno (Post 3105451)
Post the model number off the back. Also the chassis number
off the chassis. Chassis # will be D10 D12 or something like that.
Usually on a paper tag or ink printed on chassis rear. I should
have the manual & maybe can find something easy.

73 Zeno:smoke:

Model - CL813P-1

Serial - 004-1184019

120 volts

60 hertz

240 watts

mstaton 05-30-2014 10:05 AM

Sams photofact 1178-3
https://www.samswebsite.com/en/photo...&submit=Search

rodmonster 05-30-2014 12:08 PM

Update
 
OK folks...
I had the repair guy come back. I told him what all yall said. He now agrees with that.
He said he replaced the HO tube with a used one he was able to find - so it may be bad as well.
He did do some additional work while here. He fixed the end points on the power tube for the horizontal area (it was fried pretty good before it seems).
He also recapped part of the horizontal area that he said looked bad.
Oddly enough it did hold for a few minutes when he put in a Harry Potter DVD (the only one he said he could get to work before)... yeah i know... magic huh? But once you turned it off and back on - it went right back to the horizontal issue.
SOOOOO...
I have already bought a New In Box (old stock) tube to replace the older HO tube i found on Ebay.
I will get it in next Tuesday and update yall..
Keep your fingers crossed for me...
=)
And Thanks for all the help!

rodmonster 05-30-2014 12:08 PM

Ty
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by mstaton (Post 3105487)

Thank You! I will order!
=)

old_coot88 05-30-2014 12:56 PM

Yo dude. Since there's two threads going on this same issue, re-read posts 9 and 17 in the other thread.
If your set does use a horiz. phasing diode, that part must be replaced first off the bat if the problem is weak or absent horiz sync.

rodmonster 05-30-2014 04:46 PM

Understood
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by old_coot88 (Post 3105503)
Yo dude. Since there's two three which. ds going on this same issue, re-read posts 9 and 17 in the other thread.
If your set does use a horiz. phasing diode, that part must be replaced first off the bat if the problem is weak or absent horiz sync.


Gotcha. Planning to get the manual so I know which part is which.

sampson159 05-30-2014 09:50 PM

if your set is the one in your avatar-it s d-16 hybrid.those were fine,fine sets with excellent crts.they made a brilliant picture.rivaling zeniths of the era.in the shop we called them "big tuners".the next model year was also a d16 but it has slides for color,brightness and tint.the circuit boards ran hot around the horizontal section.you may never get the horizontal to work properly with a vcr or dvd.also,you have a 25 inch set.25vaqp22 crt.27 inch screens werent introduced until the 80s

rodmonster 06-03-2014 07:44 AM

Update!!
 
1 Attachment(s)
OK...
So I had the repair guy come back. He popped the back and worked on several things (checked tubes, resoldered endpoints to the power tube for the AGC area, cleaned off some areas hat looked dirty from time, etc). He was there for 2 hours messing with things. It stabilized once or twice then back to scrolling. In the end he gave up and said if I could find a new Horizontal Oscillator Tube - that might fix it.
After he left I turned it back on to see what I could do. It made a popping noise for a few seconds... the picture jumped back and forth and then it came in... clearer than ever.. I was like - huh... what the heck... turned it off and back on.. still there.. I figured well this is nuts but I am ordering the new tube anyway.
Over the next two days I watched the TV for up to an hour at a time as I was working on things in my toy room. Figured if it stopped working - then so be it - I would have a new tube soon to fix the horizontal issue. Well it worked just fine.
I got the new tube last night... (and it was new - old stock - in box - never been opened and it was OEM from Sylvania). Once in - it took a few minutes to come up.... and then the scrolling started... I started adjusting the Horizontal hold, AGC, height, etc.. and it kept going... Worked on it for nearly 2 hours and thought... this is nuts... its a new tube... ok.. well.. I am going to throw the old one in for kicks and giggles...
As soon as I put the old one back in - it stabilized again - without ANY additional tuning.... And I watched it all night as I was in the room - without any issues...
Will it last? I don't know.... Did he do something that inadvertently made it work now.... I don't know...
In the end - it is working and I am pleased as punch!
See pic below...
On a side note... I found a 1977 Du-All Sears 8mm projector over the weekend... took it apart , replaced the belt, reattached old gears, lubed it up, and got it up an d running! =)
Thanks for all the help Yall!!

sampson159 06-03-2014 08:41 AM

hope it holds up for you.this is the set that put sylvania on the map.they made the best picture at the time.electronics were fairly simple and worked well.the crt was the crowning glory.on the showroom floor,these sets always got the nod over the others.even the zeniths!they are scarce and glad you have saved this one

DavGoodlin 06-03-2014 10:48 AM

If you have the scrolling sideways, it often means the sync pulse is getting interrupted. This drove me batty with a set I had in high school, long ago.

It happened on a 1965 RCA color set chassis CTC16XL, and I replaced several tubes then horizontal AFC diodes (described by Davewm) with no improvement.
Then, with no outside advice, I replaced the HV rectifier tube which WAS a newer Sylvania 3CU3 with a new-old-stock 3A3 and the picture locked solid like never before. My conclusion is that the 3CU3 was shorter and did not seat fully into the flyback as RCAs do.

So, your problem could be some very mild and intermittent arcing, possibly at the HV rect tube or tripler block, if this set has one instead of a tube. Either way, its on the AC side, not the DC side after the rectifier/tripler that goes to the picture tube anode.

Keep the back cover off, HV cage open and when the picture "goes flopsy" turn off all the lights and look for some purple glow along the lead from the HO tube, into and around the flyback and HV rect tube. Clean up and RTV silicone the area that is arcing.

Electronic M 06-03-2014 07:36 PM

If it is a D16 then no HV cage or rectifier tube (uses a tripler instead). The backs of those sets have decent ventilation and given all the toys in that room if a kid gets in there they might not hear you tell them not to reach inside the open back of that TV. The terminals on that tripler are at about 6KV when running IIRC...Better to keep the back on when not fixing it IMHO.

NOS does not always equal good in tubes. EVEN when new there were always a good percentage of tubes that were factory duds, and THAT was ~40+ years ago!...Tubes ain't like milk, but they are not exactly like wine either. Age just marginally increases the chance of pulling a dud from a batch of NOS tubes. If you are curious find a local (radio/TV/audio) collector with a working tube tester and see how that NOS replacement tests...I'll betcha a cookie it is either weak or leaky/shorted.

rodmonster 06-04-2014 10:13 AM

Back
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Electronic M (Post 3105903)
If it is a D16 then no HV cage or rectifier tube (uses a tripler instead). The backs of those sets have decent ventilation and given all the toys in that room if a kid gets in there they might not hear you tell them not to reach inside the open back of that TV. The terminals on that tripler are at about 6KV when running IIRC...Better to keep the back on when not fixing it IMHO.

NOS does not always equal good in tubes. EVEN when new there were always a good percentage of tubes that were factory duds, and THAT was ~40+ years ago!...Tubes ain't like milk, but they are not exactly like wine either. Age just marginally increases the chance of pulling a dud from a batch of NOS tubes. If you are curious find a local (radio/TV/audio) collector with a working tube tester and see how that NOS replacement tests...I'll betcha a cookie it is either weak or leaky/shorted.

Oh yeah! Sorry - I didn't say that... I did put the back on after changing tubes... =)
I have a place I am trying to get to in a neighboring city that has a tube tester. I plan to check them both!
=)

Gunslinger 06-04-2014 02:19 PM

the problem with older tv's being used with VCR's is horiz sync. It is called "flagging" The horiz time constsnt is too long and needs to be modified to change the timing. Don't ask me how to do it but you can probably copy the circuit from a later set. When Vcr's first came iout, RCA and Zenith modified their replacement horiz modules.


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