Capehart 325 restoration
 

Way back in May, 2010 I came across this "raped curbside" Capehart on ebay.

http://www.videokarma.org/showthread...44#post2972644

That sparked another thread where pugs5061 was thinking about getting it: http://mail.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=247970

Well flash forward to 2014 and the chassis is sitting on my back porch awaiting restoration :D

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3848/...09699f7f_c.jpg

Now here's the rest of the story. I had been contact a few months back someone was referred to me by Phil Nelson who was in my area and looking to have a vintage Admiral TV restored. Well we got to talking and he said he also had some other sets he'd like restored someday too. He sent some photos and there it was - that same Capehart.

It turns out he originally found it out on the curb (or maybe it was his wife ?) after the copper thieves neck it and made off with the yoke. He listed it on ebay several times and had some winning bidders but they never showed up to claim the TV so he kept it all this time.

I also just so happened to have scored this original Farnsworth "160-AR" picture tube last year which was one of the CRTs used in this chassis. I don't thinks that's the original yoke, but the CRT has some life left.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5530/...375949df_c.jpg

So anyway, I agreed to make an attempt to bring it back to life.

On the plus side,

• The chassis looks complete and has had very little work done to it
• I have a good replacement CRT
• The copper thieves left the focus coil

On the negative side

• I'm not sure of the chassis revision
• No yoke
• Missing HV cover
• Missing some knobs (I found the volume and channels knobs in my stash)
• Missing control cover

I've been told I can probably use a Admiral or RCA yoke of the proper deflection angle as it shares a common circuit design. THat's good becuase I have some spares I can try.

The HV cover looks very easy to fabricate.

That leaves knobs and the control panel. Here's a photo of the control area. If anyone has some spare parts, please chime in :yes:

I believe "balance" is brightness and "shading" is fine-tuning.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5557/...16ce5d14_c.jpg

Here are some more photos of the TV.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3882/...4f3f61ee_c.jpg

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5560/...7d4dd92b_c.jpg

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5565/...127903c3_c.jpg

They took the yoke but left the focus coil behind.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5581/...623e01c2_c.jpg

I sure hope the flyback is good.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5580/...3d076451_c.jpg

It uses a common turret type tuner. THe power supply is similar the early RCA designs where there is a B- and B+ with a huge tapped voltage divider power resistor.

I see very little evidence of repairs.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3878/...3cf4c985_c.jpg

Looking forward to your remaining videos on this one!

750155A-G1 Crosses to Thordarson Y13

750163A-1 Crosses to Thordarson Fly2

Thanks. Where dd you get those part #s from ?

The Capehart numbers are from Sams 112. Then I looked those up in my Thordarson catalog.

I got a copy of that Sams and dug up a yoke from an RCA KCS-47 chassis using a 16GP4. That has a 70 degree deflection angle just like the 16" CRT in this Capehart.

Even better, it has a 56 and 270pF cap inside just as shown on the schematic.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5576/...6cfbe7be_z.jpg https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5567/...6cd556fc_z.jpg

Best of all it fits. Here's a dry run with a 16KP4. I think I'll use a little 8XP4 bench CRT during the restoration.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3918/...089cf5f9_z.jpg https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5571/...0e015d18_z.jpg https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5569/...8e0fb456_z.jpg

I then proceeded to test the flyback, focus coil, vertical output transformer, etc. It all checks out - even the huge candohm resistors

Finally, I pulled the 5U4 and fired it up. All the tubes lit and I have about 5 volts on the 5U4 filament and ~700 on the plates.

So it's full steam ahead on this project :thmbsp:
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5564/...7fb5fe15_z.jpg

I cleaned out the HV cage last night and replaced the missing 1B3 rectifier. The transformer inside the cage is just for the 6W4 damper tube filament.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3841/...ff57794a_z.jpg https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3889/...3462c74d_z.jpg

Then, I took a closer look underneath. The are a few deviations from the Sams but overall it matches well.

One thing that struck me though is the crazy assortment of resistor types. Lots of 30s style dogbones, some from West Germany, some odd body styles. Also some series and parallel combinations to get the right value.

This set is from around 1951 so I'm guessing it's a result of parts shortages from the Korean war and spike in TV demand.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3918/...03d242d8_z.jpg067 https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3914/...3db69fb2_z.jpg

I may have a Y-13 in my remaining stock. Possibly the other too. Let me know if you need me to look. There is a post of what I have in the classifieds a ways back. I used to post it once a year just so people would know the stuff exists, but I haven't updated in quite a while.

Thanks for the offer. I'll let you know if this yoke doesn't work out. I've been comparing this chassis the various service info sources and it's actually closer to the later Sams 160-2 than 112-3.

I'm also glad I reviewed the Riders info where I found this warning:
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3922/...100a51c5_o.jpg

Of course, I had mine dressed the wrong way and corrected it :)
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5580/...70fcc980_z.jpg

Those sure seem like tiny wires going to the plate caps.

For sure and I've been very careful around them. When this set was found, the 1B3 tube was missing and I'm amazed the cap lead hadn't broken off.

Assuming I can get this thing running again, I'll fabricate a new HV cage cover for protection.

I found this PENN TUBE branded 6AL5 in the set. Is that a clown face ?
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5595/...2407a58f_z.jpg https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5564/...2eb7eedf_z.jpg

It's always reassuring to have a Clown printed on your tubes, it suggests premium quality. :D

I hate clowns!!! That tube would have freaked me the hell out - making me sell the set immediately! LOL!

Hard to tell if it is a clown. It looks a little like the Quaker Oats guy, which would fit in with the (William?) Penn tube brand.

We have a winner!

OK, I'll take that answer :)

Encountered my first open power resistor so far and replaced it. Also finished up the sync separator, vertical oscillator and output in this corner.

This set is proving to be quite a challenge. I now have threes versions of the schematic and none quite match. They also really packed the components in.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5558/...f8b82584_z.jpg https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5590/...e77ff19d_z.jpg

Done with the sound IF, ratio detector and output amp too.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5566/...0d15816e_z.jpg

Done with the vintage table refinishing yet? :D

Did you replace the grille cloth? Just noticing that the closeup picture shows the set with what looks like a gaping hole in the speaker area. Then the full view of the set there is no hole, but the cloth looks original.

The closeup is from a different set I grabbed off eBay to show what the missing knobs and control panel look like.

All I have at my place is the chassis.

LOL Which one ? I'm just about done giving my danish modern coffee table a fresh lacquer recoat and rubbing out my Philco charside radio. Still haven't touched my vintage kitchen table :(

Horizontal circuits done. I like how they implemented the hor. linearity control at a right angle with a wingnut.

Should be ready for a power up soon...
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5576/...a7042e33_c.jpg

This sure has been a confusing chassis to work on but I'm getting close!

All the electrolytics have been rebuilt and I'm just waiting on some power resistors to arrive tomorrow.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5587/...d722aa39_z.jpg

Meanwhile, I'm cleaning up the corroded chassis.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3843/...0bec53fa_z.jpg https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3863/...6261ffec_z.jpg

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3866/...32ac63c7_c.jpg

I'm also reviewing all the components and finding some damage like this chipped ceramic disc.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3882/...2de05d2f_z.jpg

What do you use to cut open those multi-section electrolytics so neatly without removing them. Or maybe you did remove them, but I figure if you did and then rebuilt them then you would re install them as units.

I actually did remove them which was quite easy to do.

Then heated them in the oven on the lowest setting to soften the tar holding the cardboard covers on.

Finally, used this fine toothed mini-hack to cut them open.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5589/...bc30a367cb.jpg https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3917/...60dae3e603.jpg

Here's a closer look at one of the oddball resistors in this set. It's a Rosenthal which I think is German.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3849/...0e0fdc4c_z.jpg

I have Seen these in a couple of 1950 Admirals that i have worked on

I noticed the yoke in your video has Y17 printed on it, so it's probably a Thordarson replacement. Far as I can tell a Y13 and Y17 are very close(both 70 degree) with the exception that the 17 has the octal plug attached.

I've got the knobs and the control panel/nameplate you need. PM sent.:thmbsp:

Rosenthal, "Ja, Deutschland!"


They're now part of the glorious Vishay empire.

http://www.vishay.com/landingpage/50year/draloric.html

I found a couple fried dogbones in parallel. Enough paint remained for me to identify them as 47K which matches one version of the schematic. Together they should measure 23.5K but I got about 5K.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3872/...d5275874_z.jpg https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3919/...ec238a6a_z.jpg

Underneath them was an even crispier resistor which I can't make out. Again, the schematics for this circuit vary widely, but I'm fairly certain it should be 33K - not 7K.

I wonder hat caused the failures ? I'll replace them and keep my fingers crossed.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3859/...f6386ea9_z.jpg

That sure is an interesting(strange) set. It's neat watching it slowly come back to life. Outside of the Farnsworth in the ETF museum I have only ever seen one other Capeheart-Farnsworth product and that was at an antique store years ago and they wanted $500 for it!

As for all the differences, maybe undocumented production runs but also far be it for Sams to be flat out wrong!

Matt

Bob, I found a similar set on craigslist. Too bad it is in Texas.
http://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/atq/4628868624.html

I stayed up late list night I finally tried to power it up :) The 8XP4 test CRT is at add odd angle because of the stiff spring around the HV lead.

As soon as I tuned in channel 6, I god strong clear sound :music: No picture though and no HV.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3900/...52807823_z.jpg

I discovered the 1/4 amp flyback fuse was open and tacked a new one across it.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5559/...83c80ce6_z.jpg013

Yay! A blurry raster :thmbsp:
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3867/...92ff1831_z.jpg

After some more control twiddling, I got a blurry but stable image.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5591/...7f0a264c_z.jpg

I figured the image was blurry because of the focus coil messing up the auto focus CRT. It's part of the power supply so can't be disconnected but I was able to unmount it.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5577/...9048cdb6_z.jpg

Ah, much better :yes:
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5565/...9103e920_z.jpg

Next up, I'll test all the tubes and do some more tweaking.

Well I found and replaced some weak tubes and the set was playing better. Then while making some control adjustments I hear a faint pop and saw a brief spark near the HV rectifier and the picture went dim :(

I sure hope it's something simple like the HV rectifier died or fuse blew.

Yep, fuse blew. Now to determine why...

sounds like the 6W4 damper tube failed with a fil to cathode short. the best thing to do is just replace the 6W4 with a 6AX4. also chect to see if that disk capacitor underneath the damper tube shorted out. i have seen these short out before.

The 6W4 tested OK but I replaced with a NOS 6AX4 anyway. Replaced the fuse too. That got HV back until I tweak the drive control when I got a flash and the fuse blew again. Still not sure exactly where the flash came from. Might have been the fuse itself.

Before it died I managed to test the HV and it was only 6.5 kV - should be closer to 11 kV. Something sure isn't right in that circuit.

since i don't have a diagram to look at for that chassis, i could only ask a couple of things. is the horizontal drive control a adjustable coil?, or a variable capacitor? or a pot? if it is a coil type, usually, those have a capacitor across it. it might be leaky. the coil itself, may have shorted windings.

have you checked the current on the cathode of the 6BG6?

i still suspect that red disk capacitor underneath the damper tube socket.
it appears to me that something is drawing too much current in the output stage. it might be that the flyback xfmr may a a few shorted turns or any of the above mentioned things, it also could be caused by a problem in a different circuit protected by that fuse.