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Hi!!!
Im still a member here! Im going to try to be around here more lol. So, how's everyone been doing?:banana:
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Long time no see, Mark.
I'm doing good, and still a bit of an otaku. I got me a classic car (there's a thread on it in the 'things with motors' section). How has life been treating you lately? |
Thought you fell off the face of the planet!
Welcome back. . |
Hey Tom and Jim, I kinda did fall off the face of the planet lol! Life has been rough but seems to be improving. A few more hurdles to jump and things might get back to somewhat normal :)
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Hello buddy,im glad your ok :)
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So you makin it to ETF or what? :)
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Looks like I am, Tim :)
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Yesss!!! :D
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I recall seeing your thread about a 13" 1983 Mitsubishi. Late last year I got a similar 19" 1987 Electrohome-branded Mitsubishi, near mint, also with the blue-tinted CRT. I have the manual which calls the CRT "blue optic".
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Yep, I still have the set but the vertical collapsed due to some bad caps. Sounds like you found a nice set. These aren't really valuable or anything but make good daily drivers and produce a nice picture.
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I usually don't bother with sets that recent, but it's identical to one we had when I was a kid. It is the one I use most of all, which will likely change once my Chromacolor console gets new safety caps.
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I usually don't either but sometimes make exceptions. I hope you get your Zenith going, they are great sets. :)
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Same here. I also made an exception for a low-end 1988 Zenith console with the 9-516 main chassis which is in great shape and is spotless inside. The Chromacolor started for me as of last May, I just won't risk running it again until I get the new safety caps in (I still need a soldering station). Its CRT tests almost new, surprising to me even for a Chromacolor.
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You don't need a whole station just pick up a ~20$ iron or gun from your local hardware store....It will probably even have as much solder as you need.
You do not need anything more than needle nose pliers to de-solder the old part from chassis style terminals, Just heat with one hand, and grab the end of the lead with the pliers in the other, and wiggle/unwrap/unloop, and once the lead is out heat and blow the solder out of the terminal....PCBs are even easier. I Have a couple of solder suckers, and honestly just don't bother using them except on multi-pin PCB parts. |
Really? I use my solder sucker all the time. It's great for disconnecting wires or components where said component is wrapped in an eyelet type terminal. Hit it with the gun, suck the solder out.
Then when enough of the solder is out, wiggle the wire with small needlenose pliers or use a dental pick to unwind it while hitting it with as little heat as possible. |
I've been doing it without owning any de-soldering equipment for so long that it don't feel natural to use any unless it is on something that can't be done without it like a DIP chip.
You can get about the same effect as a sucker on chassis and PCB work by keeping the joint hot as you remove the lead with needle nose pliers...It is just a bit more blind and requires a bit of finesse. I did get a really good sucker a while back that changed my technique for a time before the latch/trigger broke and it became almost as janky as the squeeze bulb type RatShack sold....I'm too cheap and lazy to track down another as good so back to the old method.... |
Solder removal, what an exiting subject !
Ear irrigator style I found useless. One tech I knew swore by them cause solder wick cost $$. He was a cheap prick. Out of biz before anyone else.......... Plunger style works great on large stuff like FBT pins with griplets. Suck it clean then use dikes ( not that kind) to pull on the pins & free them. DO NOT use around SMD's you can suck up half a dozen resistors & caps & ruin your day. Solder wick is best for delicate work. A little practice & you can swap out a jungle IC in 5 mn. Its all in how you you angle the iron & wick. Get it right & you got it made in the shade. Professional vacuum stations. I found one at the dump once. Real pissah machine with a heat controlled iron & desoldering iron on the other side that had a vacuum suck up. Looked it up & found it went for over 1K$ USD ! The boss sprung for tips, filters & a manual. Damn thing was like owning a Euro sports car. Very touchy to keep running...... IMHO if it were in constant use on a rework line it may have worked well but NOT for the TV shop. Pull it & hope there are holes. Old school way. Biggest problem is usually no holes so you try to coax off the solder. Usually ends up with etch hanging off the tip of your iron. So for me it was QUALITY wick & a plunger solder puller. For hand wired Zeniths a Weller station with the hottest round tip was a joy on the terminal strips. 73 Zeno:smoke: |
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The Hakko 936 was suggested to me but there are so many chinese knockoffs that I can't risk it. |
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Ive always just used solder wick. It can be pricey but a roll lasts a while.
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The Hakko 808 has been discontinued.... Reviews are very mixed on the newer FR-300. :(
http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FR300-05...s=Hakko+fr-300 not affiliated with Amazon or Hakko, jr |
Glad to see you back !
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Omg. Tell me about it. Shipping anything these days is horrible. Also, hey Sandy! Thanks! :D
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