My "new" 1954 CTC2B 21CT55 21" roundie
 

Yes, I acquired a CTC2B, which I consider is probably the second most coveted 21 inch roundie among collectors. The model is 21CT55, and it is in really great shape considering it's well over 60 years old. The set was listed on Craigslist and was located in Iowa about 25 miles from me. I was told it originally came from Las Vegas from an estate. My friend Jamie from VK (jstout) found the listing as he new I was interested in trying to restore a very early color set. The seller even agreed to deliver it, so with the help of Jamie and the seller, they brought it over to my house while I was at work. I came home to find quite the surprise. Best of all the set is in really good shape, and I believe it doesn't even have that many hours of use on it. Yes, the top of the cabinet needs to be refinished, but the sides (although scratched) could be touched up and refinished if necessary. Best of all the chassis is mint, almost like it has seen very light use. The CRT was replace about three years after it was new, so probably around 1957. I hooked up my Beltron, and guess what, not only is the CRT under vacuum, it tests .9 on all three guns, although the blue and green are kind of slow warming up. I lowered the filament voltage to 5 volts and for the most part it stayed right at the top of the meter for emission, and has no short indications. Next I looked at the flyback and can't see any burn't spots, so I am hoping that it is good and usable as well. The CRT is a 21AXP22 dated 35-57. (1957). Chassis looks really good, except some rust on the small tube shields and the ballast resistor. The yoke cover of course like most of them is crumbling, but that is to be expected. Metal back and knobs are all there, along with the cord, front bezel and logos, and the wiring inside looks really good, and doesn't seem to be brittle. Right now I'm in "seventh heaven" however it will probably be put on the back burner for a bit until I finish some other projects that I have going on. The problem that I have right now is where to start with this project. Do I bring it up slowly on a variac, or do I pull the chassis and start changing caps, testing tubes, looking for defective parts, and give it a good cleaning up. (60+ years of dust and oxidation). I did find that one of the HV rectifier tubes was cracked, (3A2) but that's no big deal. There is some dirt built up between the safety glass and the mask, but honest, it's just dirty and can be cleaned up. I don't see any signs of infestation, (rodents, bugs, etc). Any input and suggestions from anyone who has worked on and has experience with these old CTC2s, is appreciated. Apparently this model chassis is similar to the sets that used the 15GP22, and was modified to accept the larger 21 inch tube. It's going to be a long project for me, (maybe years), but I hope to see a nice color picture on it someday.

Nice!

You STOLE that set Walter !! $100 for a 21-ct-55 WITH a good TUBE ?

Many thanks to my friend Jamie for helping me find this
 

If it had not been for him searching the web, I probably would not have found this set. He has helped me out with many situations, finding retro electronics, and doing repairs and restorations on several of his units. He is on VideoKarma as jstout. When I need a hand lifting or moving a heavy piece of equipment he is always there to help out.

Also many thanks to my friend Rick, (titan1A also on VK) a friend for over 30 years, who is also a collector of retro stereos, hi-fi, old radios, computers, and other electronics. He is the one I restored an old 1938 Zenith console radio for, and he did a lot of the leg work searching for parts and information for it. When I have a computer problem that I get stuck on, he's always there to offer advice.

I also thank the people who keep this website going. Everyone on here is due thanks for all of the info and advice that I find interesting, useful and informative.

Got it cheap
 

I did give the seller an additional $20 for gas money and time for hauling the set to my place.

Yah - you stole that ! ! Good deal and a good tube too ! !
I would rather have that set over a ct100...... All that cabinet
and a bigger screen ! Fire it up, post some pictures ! !


.

WOW! What a find! But what 21" roundie would you consider to be more coveted among collectors? Seems to me that the Very rare 21CT55 is at the very top of the 21" list!

jr

Dang! I wish I had the kinda luck and friends you've got.

In your shoes I'd pull the deflection output tubes, put a meter the high B+ rail, and variac it up till that B+ rail reaches spec, or signs of trouble appear. If it goes good scope the Horizontal osc. If that is good reinstall the sweep tubes, and power it up while monitoring cathode current of the H out tube (the schematic should be on the ETF's site and should give you the safe max cathode current spec).

I don't know of a more desirable 21" color set. The 21CT55 was the first of them....Built in response to other companies coming out with 19" CRT loosely based on the 15GP, but containing many new innovations the 15G lacked....That and when a customer shells out what one of those cost they want the biggest screen they can get.

I have seen these sets with UNKOWN tubes go for OVER 1K..and one with a GOOD tube got over 2K IIRC at the ETF some years back...

Wow! Super nice find! :drool:

Congratulations, really nice.

You lucky SOB...

I really want to see this set restored and playing.

http://www.videokarma.org/attachment...9&d=1432930075

Scratch that, you ridiculously lucky SOB!!

Seriously, i hope you can get it running, and provide lots of pics to show off its colors.

Walter,

I was in touch w/Jamie earlier today before he turned the 21-CT-55 over to you. I had sent him a link to the SAMS. Here it is just in case you didn't get it.
http://www.earlytelevision.org/pdf/R...Sams-300-8.pdf. Best w/ this project. Be very careful powering it up. Don't want to damage any unobtainable parts. Also, this is the only ad for your set I have ever come across: http://www.earlytelevision.org/pdf/rca_21ct55_ad.pdf

-Steve D.

Ahh HATE Yew...-Y. Sam, Philosopher Extraordinaire... Seriously, you oughta go buy a BUNCH of lotto tickets w/THAT kind of luck... And I think I can say w/o fear of contradiction that-1) We're ALL tickled pink for you, & 2) WE wanna see it restored to "Glorious Lollipop Color" ASAP...(grin)

Congrats man. great looking set. I'd say bring it up slow and go for it. My CTC10 is playing fantastic. I just recapped it in January. All the litics. Plays like a dream with a great tube to. I've had it 3 yrs now. I'd clean all the controls first then put the power up on it.

I actually posted it on his Facebook wall like hours after it was listed ;)

Of course, I can't take 100% credit for that one....he might have seen it before I did.

Here is a link to my 21CT55 restoration thread:
http://videokarma.org/showthread.php...ghlight=21ct55

I found it a real challenge, but very pleased with the result.

Dave

Please post the chassis and cabinet serial numbers so we can add the set to our database.

Good thread about your restoration, Zenith 6S321! Problem is that I don't have all the nice equipment that you do. I do have of course have a digital VOM, and a 20 MHZ scope, HV probe, color bar generator, a variable isolation transformer, variac etc, but I don't have things like a B&K analyst, or sweep and marker generator. Another thing that I don't have is a test picture tube jig, and I'm not even sure that would work with a CTC2. Usually, I change all the electrolytic caps, the old wax capacitors, and any out of tolerance or burn't resistors, but alignment is not one of my specialties, except maybe adjusting the sound detector, 4.5 trap, or 3.58 osc. coil to get the color to lock in. I have never re-stuffed the cans, as I usually just find room underneath the chassis. Maybe it's time I try my hand at re-stuffing them. If the selenium rectifiers have not already been replaced with diodes, I plan to do so, putting in appropriate dropping resistors. I used to have an old Eico sweep and marker, but it was so unstable, that is was useless, and got rid of it many years ago. This project is going to turn into quite a challenge, and possibly buying some new old stock or good used test equipment. (E-bay is my friend!) It would be nice to have or make up some cables so I can hook up the CRT while the chassis is on the bench. That would make servicing it so much easier. (Clip leads are great, but not in this instance). I do have a couple of yoke adapters though. I have repaired TVs since 1972, but I have never taken on one as old and involved as this. Wish me good luck. Walterbeers

Serial and Cabinet numbers
 

Steve: I am not sure these are the numbers you are looking for, but here goes. Stamped on the wooden cabinet is 1921 and also 539.
The serial number of the set is B8802697 Also on the chassis is RVB274 Also on the label is 506L. Stamped into the back bottom of the metal chassis is
11 03 207-1 SUB10 Hope these numbers help you identify the set.

Wow, what an amazing find -- and with a good CRT to boot!

I look forward to hearing about its restoration. My thinking with a set like this is, you may never find another one, so take your time, do it right, and enjoy the process.

Regards,

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
http://antiqueradio.org/index.html

Awesome find. A pretty rare set to find with a very lucky to find working crt!!! That looks like the maple version of my rca ctc-9 Caulfield in the background also. Great sets.

from facebook?
 

I didn't realize that is was posted on jstout's facebook page, so to whom ever found it first, I really super appreciate it. I also appreciate Kamakiri keeping track of posts, as we really need to keep saving and restoring these rare and retro TVs from the scrap piles.

I once mentioned to a co-worker that when I was kid we only had B&W TV. The response was "black and white"???? "I don't think I've ever seen one!!!" and probably not, as he was only around 16 or 17 years old.

The Story.....
We totally lucked out having something this rare pop up in our backyards. The set was located in Glenwood, Iowa. I am an insomniac, and check facebook and craigslist whenever I am up. I saw the posting and literally 2 seconds later Tim posted it on my FB wall. ( Tim.. THANK YOU!! I think it was the shock of seeing it on CL and the "push" from Tim that made me immediately contact the seller) I debated for a hot minute to purchase it for myself, but my good friend Walter had been looking for a CTC-4 for ages, and he is better equipped to repair something this old and rare. I knew if I kept it, he'd have to do most of the work anyway, and funds are tight on my end as I just had to pay $2700.00 to have a dead tree removed. Anyway.. obviously this is older than a CTC-4 ( neither of us thought we'd ever find anything older ) I had a CTC-4 that I sold to Mark Mason some years back, as I knew he'd appreciate it more than I. Just like I knew Walter would love this set. I called the seller, and I felt like I was on a job interview. I think what clinched the deal was I said I would send him a video if we got it working. I made arrangements to have it delivered, and he texted me about 3 hours before he hit Omaha. I called Walters wife Kathy, and met him at Walters house and had it dropped off while he was at work. Let me state that I forgot how HEAVY these 50's color sets are.... haha.
Anyway, we'll appreciate any tips on this set thru VK or my tv friends on facebook.

Wow, simply incredible! It's nice to know that sets like this can still be found in the wild. Congratulations :tresbon:

I also advise you to proceed slowly and don't try powering it up until you've thoroughly checked out the power supply and sweep circuits.

Looking forward to the restoration thread. Best of luck.

-Clark

I haven't done anything yet with this set except check the CRT and open up the HV cage, finding a cracked rectifier tube. I intend to take it slowly. First I'll check out the power supply, and sweep circuits, and of course bring it up slowly, monitoring the B+, with the horizontal output tube removed. If I get some audio noise, that will be a good sign, then maybe hook up the horizontal, bring it up slow again, as I monitor the horizontal osc waveform and high voltage. I am hopeful the flyback is ok, runs cool, and doesn't smoke or anything. Time will tell, and I will keep everyone posted as to it's progress.

I THINK...a 3A3 will work in place of that 3B2 ..in case you do not have the original.

A really amazing find! Congratulations and best wishes for a successful restoration! Looking forward to the end result!

Walter, you may want to check for shorted HV caps in the HV cage. The largest one in my set was shorted. With rare sets like this I think it is best to proceed cautiously. Burning up a flyback would really ruin your day.

Dave

Got Audio
 

Well, some good news, (well sort of anyway), I removed the horizontal output tube and brought the AC voltage slowly up to 75 volts, and I got noise from the speaker, and had about 250 volts at the top cap connector for the 6CB5. So I hooked up a converter box to the antenna terminals, went to channel 4, and I did have sound. The selenium rectifiers are still in circuit, and one of the fuses had been bypassed with a clip on fuse, which was actually broken. So, for now I just clipped in a 3 amp pigtail temporally. Just getting sound raised my enthusiasm. I did find out that the fine tuning knob is broken, so if someone has one that would work as a replacement let me know. I'm not going to do any more with it today, as I have other stuff to do, and I'm getting really tired. Been up since 5AM, my usual wake up time. A 3A3 won't work, the 3B2 is a small 9 pin tube with a top cap.

[QUOTE=walterbeers;3134977]Well, some good news, (well sort of anyway), I removed the horizontal output tube and brought the AC voltage slowly up to 75 volts, and I got noise from the speaker, and had about 250 volts at the top cap connector for the 6CB5. So I hooked up a converter box to the antenna terminals, went to channel 4, and I did have sound. The selenium rectifiers are still in circuit, and one of the fuses had been bypassed with a clip on fuse, which was actually broken. So, for now I just clipped in a 3 amp pigtail temporally. Just getting sound raised my enthusiasm. I did find out that the fine tuning knob is broken, so if someone has one that would work as a replacement let me know. I'm not going to do any more with it today, as I have other stuff to do, and I'm getting really tired. Been up since 5AM, my usual wake up time. A 3A3 won't work, the 3B2 is a small 9 pin tube with a top cap.[/QUOTE

You are thinking of the 3A2...and it IS a 9 pin tube. No sub that I know of for it. The 3B2 is a large octal tube.

Yes, It uses a 3A2. My bad. Yes, It is a 9 pin tube, not an octal. I don't know what happened. I must have transposed the number either in my mind or on the keyboard. Looks similar to a 1X2, but has a 3 volt filament. I will also check for shorted the high voltage caps.

progress, light and video on the screen
 

Well, I put in a 1V2 in temporarily for the 3A2 and I"m getting high voltage although low, I do have some light and video on the screen although not really a picture. Sound is there, everything needs cleaned, recapped and check out, but preliminary testing shows that the CRT is usable and it thrills me that the main stages, flyback, yoke, HV, and sound, IF, tuner, etc at least are somewhat working. I know a 1V2 will not last in place of a 3A2 but this was for maybe 5 minutes just to find out what works and what doesn't. Obvious it needs filter caps, and vertical isn't full. What I really need is connectors that I can put the cabinet on the bench with the chassis removed, so I can work on the chassis, leaving the CRT in the cabinet. As of right now, I prefer not to take the CRT out of the cabinet, I feel it's just too risky with that old of a set, since the CRT appears good, and usable. I will be ordering several 3A2s, and probably other tubes as well as I test them out.

If you lay the set on its side (make sure the chassis is bolted down) you can get to a good deal of the underside of the chassis. Long cables might cause odd problems, but then again maybe it would be ok.

Dave

I wouldn't expect problems with temporary extension cables. Just be slow and careful.

Does anyone know of extension cables for the set, that is a yoke connector (Octal), convergence connector (A 9 pin, looks like an octal), and a CRT connector (for the base of the tube). I'm sure I could rig up some high voltage wire for the anode though. Or was, or is there any type of test jigs that were made that would work with the set? Or, is it best to lay the set on it's side and remove the bottom metal plate? How has other restorers of CTC2s, 21CT55s, done it. There is a fellow on here that has a CRT test jig he want to sell, but I doubt it was made to work with a set this old. Even with all the adapter cables, I doubt if there is a way to connect up the convergence unit. I guess right now, I'm thinking of lying it on it's side, when I get a couple of strong guys over here to help with it.

Some who have worked on later roundys with extender cables have had phantom video ringing and ghosting caused by the extender cables....It is not guaranteed to happen, but something to be weary of.

We used to have this problem with all extender cables. Making them shorter helps. One factory item on my RCA CTC11 set is a cardboard disc that keeps the three G1wires to the CRT socket separated.

Many Congratulations Walter - you just grabbed the headlines:thmbsp:

The size, and wavy sides indicate bad power supply capacitors, you should not
run it again until you replace the electrolytics in the power supply at minimum....

.

I came across a set of the extender cables and I use them all them time. They are great for testing purposes but nothing more as they introduce interference. No settings can be done until the crt is back in the cabinet but like I said they work great for rough testing, making sure there is a raster, approx. width and height and such.
The ones I have are 4 feet long and they came with a test crt I bought on ebay. There's one for the crt, two for the yoke, one with that octal plug and the other has alligator clips, and an extender for the high voltage lead.

Gregb