1976 Electrohome
 

For anyone who wants to see it.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/154129...57685538995083

Proof that the Canadians could make fake colonial style cabinets just as ugly as the Americans can. Still a cool find.

Well !! A COLD chassis with a VRT !!

Also, the cabinet is made mostly of actual wood and it has a metal screen bezel. I was surprised.

Quite a few Electrohomes made it down here. They
were as good as most US sets & easy to fix. Advent
used them in the Video Beams along with Sylvania.
The Electros were better. Nice score, hows about some nudies
of it if you can.

73 Zeno:smoke:

What's that?

Nudies=Open, back off, chassis pictures. It's in big use over on AK, where nudies of high-end stuff is popular.

Some of us like to "see the guts" of a set - hence the request for nudies.

Oh I see. I already did that, I don't understand how they were missed.

I've only seen Electrohome products in Photofacts; this is a solid looking set, inside and out. I personally like that cabinet style. Good find!

Thanks Bryan. I only recall seeing pre-Japanese Electrohomes in pictures before this one, and most of their console cabinets from that time are plain at best in my opinion. Also, they too copied the Avanté.

Now I know why someone messed with convergence: the settings don't stick. Display a crosshatch pattern and watch the lines move frequently. Even in service mode I see separate lines. Any idea what's wrong? Again this has a C31 chassis.

On a side note, undo two bolts and the chassis slides back and tilts up for easy servicing.

I would look for cold joints on the conv. board first.
A little tapping around may smoke it out.
Also its not rare for the lines not to match up in
service position. Killing the vert takes away pulses needed
in the conv circuit.
For grey scale normally bring up the G2's one at a time
then back down til the line just disappears. After a good
warm up of course......

The VRT is a nice touch, add Electrohome to the list of users.
Zenith, RCA, Admiral, GE, Panasonic Who did I miss ?
Sylvania ? Maggy ??
73 Zeno:smoke:

Last I fired it up the grid stayed still. Dirty service switch maybe? There's a blue shaping control I unfortunately cannot adjust because it requires a diddle stick.

There's a coil next to the fly. I wonder if this is for adjusting HV because I'd like to be able to swap in something other than the extra-leaded 25VCXP22. Not that I'm afraid of the lead, it's just that the exact CRT is hard to locate.

well . fake or not , I'm not sure what you say is a good thing for anyone, man ... Do not talk too much to say nothing . when you find a TV that pleases us, whether manufactured in the US or Canada, what does that change anything in your life? A vintage TV is always good to take, no matter her beauty or her condition, dear sir. I am Canadian and if I said the same thing when I find a TV that comes from elsewhere, it would be insulting to those from elsewhere in my sens..Voila my rant that does not happen often and I hope it will not happen again either !! ..


Have a great day to all..:music: :thmbsp:

There was no insult in his comment as far as I can tell...Perhaps your from the french region and running his posts through a buggy translation program?
What He seemed to say the way I read it was: That in his opinion colonial style cabinets are ugly. And that the Canadians were as good at making that style of cabinet as we were.

From here on my moderator talk ends and I talk personally as a collector.

Personally I prefer sets in styles that were considered modern when a set was new, and when I can choose between identical chassis in modern, colonial, Mediterranean, or our very own but-ugly Early American cabinet style, I always go for the modern cabinet (they just look that much more swanky/cool to me).
There are three reasons I buy a set, to preserve an example of something rare (or cheap :D), for an example of interesting circuitry design, or for a cool looking cabinet. I save as much as I can, but sorry to say that the common sets with generic boring chassis have to have a really cool cabinet for me to give them a second look. If a set is super rare or has a really cool/good chassis/circuit in it then I will save it even if the cabinet was intentionally designed to be ugly.

We can't save every set (especially here in the radio/TV belt), and drawing lines based on personal taste is a valid approach to limit ourselves to a practical intake of sets.

That's the nicest rant I've ever seen, the only thing missing is an apology.

No, you are exactly right. I will always take a vintage tv, regardless if it is my "taste" or not.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow, I can't believe that 10-month old post is finally being rebuked. What took you so long?

Anyway, my interpretation of Olorin67's post is very similar to Tom's. The guy doesn't like that style of cabinetry, and the US & Canadians both had the gall to build them against his wishes.

But that's just his opinion, and it if isn't the same as yours, it's still no big deal. It wasn't an insult to the Canadians, as it put them on par with Americans like himself. Or did you think he was insulting both Americans & Canadians? If he was, shame on him. But I know him, and he was not intending to hurt anyone's feelings, nor did he intend to insult Canadians.

But back in the day those sets were being built, a lot of people did appreciate that style, verified by the number that were sold and still exist. That just shows a large percentage of Americans & Canadians both had poor taste in the day. ;)

Now for my honest opinion: I agree with Olorin67; I think those sets are ugly.

.

No probs Electronic M. and,.. I don't use a translator from english to french . yes i speak french,, the poetic language loll..

I don't have a schematic and doubt I can get one easily.

Okay, I can forget the blue shaping control. I found service info for a similar chassis that says it's factory pre-set and not to touch it.

Anyway, the CRT is in better shape than I thought. I fixed the cold joint on the left horizontal blue control and re-installed the convergence board. However, I'm having trouble with blue static convergence, the up/down control. I can get red and green to sync no problem, but I can't get blue spot-on no matter what I do. A resistor in the area of the cold joint gets very warm and the knob on that control was discolored and broke off when I tried to adjust it. Perhaps that resistor has gone bad?

Well, because of that hot-running resistor I tried adjusting the blue shaping coil. I figured whoever threw off convergence so badly messed with it anyway. I tried to use my meter with the peak hold function on to measure peak voltage, but no dice. I don't think that meter ever worked very well for me and now I think it's had the biscuit. My alignment tool soon stripped and I couldn't back the slug out, but that resistor is running a lot cooler and no others I've checked are getting hot.

I finally found the right service manual so I should be able to get most of my questions answered soon. I have one more though that should be easy enough for someone with an ECG catalog to answer for me...

This set has a Varo MH1203E01 tripler. What does it cross to?

Jon found the main part of the part number but not the E01 but all ones with that main number are all ECG523. Hope that is just a variant for Electrohome. All the best Tom.J

Excellent, thanks Tom. I saw a topic on another forum that mentions a Varo tripler and that the last part of the code doesn't matter. You're probably right about it being it being an Electrohome variant; the topic is about an Advent Videobeam front projection TV, which I read use Electrohome chassis and whose original tripler code ended with E01.

I've gotten the blue static convergence near perfect by subbing the unusual replacement blue lateral with one from my Zenith flatty. The original fell apart during cleaning. It still has a red purity issue I can't correct with the neck magnets or manual degaussing but I've done my best to compensate. I'll experiment with correction magnets eventually... or maybe not. I haven't touched the setup controls in months.

While I was tracing wires under the chassis the degaussing thermistor fell apart. My schematic doesn't indicate its value and I don't have a complete parts list. There are numbers along the edge: 60-01 or maybe 10-09 if I'm reading it upside-down. I don't know if that's its value or what.

Edit: I finally found an original service manual, so now I can always get the information I need.

beautiful set.

Re-cap time?
 

Thanks Ron. I'll always be doing my best to keep this one running.

I think it's time for new e-caps. It's been having intermittent video problems for a while and now the picture has gone all screwy, so I've swapped it out with a console a few years newer until I can fix it. I don't want to risk catastrophic failure of something harder to get my hands on.

There's at least one e-cap marked "bi-polar"; I know what this is but don't know why it's in this set. I have to check a couple others under the chassis but so far it seems the rest are polarized.

There are also three oddball caps I hadn't seen the likes of before. I've attached a photo.

I've attached a screenshot as well, in hopes someone will recognize the symptoms and confirm that the caps are going bad. It's full of el-cheapo e-caps, many marked "Singapore".

The cap you've circled is some type of film cap, and I think not likely to be a problem, but maybe someone with direct experience can comment.

Yes, they're poly caps, I found them on the parts list. There must have been some production changes as the parts list for the main PCB for example shows only 12 of the 13 e-caps. I went through the whole thing to make up a list and plot their locations. There's just that one non-polar cap. Then there are the power supply cans, a two section and a three section.

By the way, I appreciate the input.