Admiral C322C16 Canadian Set
 

First pictures of the set rescued from Ontario by Tim, Al and myself.

http://miniman82.4t.com/images/Admiral/IMG_0287.JPG


Chassis nudes.

http://miniman82.4t.com/images/Admiral/IMGP6733.JPG
http://miniman82.4t.com/images/Admiral/IMGP6734.JPG
http://miniman82.4t.com/images/Admiral/IMGP673.JPG

Cabinet is missing the speaker, and the only things I know about the chassis so far is I have horizontal and vertical waveforms at both output tubes, something has been done to the focus rectifier circuit, and there's been a fair amount of work done to it. There's new high quality flame proof resistors installed in places, and new caps tacked in where the factory cans connect. I don't know what that means for the restoration, but hopefully it will be easy as long as the PO didn't make any errors in parts replacement. At least the CRT is good, that alone was worth the price of admission.

Forgot to add, the chassis label on the back says it's a C223A3X. Can't find anything on that number anywhere, no idea why it says that. Someone crossed it out and put the correct one above it. lol The chassis is in fact a 29Z1, run 18. Sams only covers runs 1 thru 17, wonder if I need a better schematic?

Roundies must be rare in Canada, especially non-RCA units. We didn't get color broadcasts until 1966, only places near the border could get them before that.

This was made by Admiral in Canada, apparently they had a plant not too far from where the set was found.

Ran up the chassis, here's what I have currently:

Had no HV despite a wave form being present on the horizontal output tube's grid the day before. Pulled the tube back out to check, it's still there so something is wrong. Turned out someone had stuck a 6DQ5 in there where a 6CB5 should be, and though they are electrical subs for each other you would have to swap some pins around. That hadn't been done, so I put a 6CB5 in it and HV came up.

HV is low with the regulator tube installed. Without it I'm getting around 21.5kv, installed it droops to around 16kv and I get a nice bright blue glow from the 6BK4's tubular plate. :D The resistors that control the 6BK4 grid are in tolerance, so I'm installing a 1-meg HV adjust pot in the back of the chassis. It goes between the boost source and dropping resistors on the grid, giving adjustable grid potential. Hopefully once I'm done with that, I'll have stable and adjustable high voltage available on the 3A3's cup.

Focus circuit was wired incorrectly. There was a part I couldn't identify (probably a megohm range resistor) which got removed, and I made the circuit reflect what Sams has. Hope focus voltage falls in range. Installed a new 1V2, previously there wasn't one there.

Port Credit was the next town over from Mississauga. I ended up getting there about a half hour early to pick it up, so I took a drive down the street and ended up in downtown Port Credit.

Exciting to watch this set start to come to life :)

It is possible that mystery part could have been a SS focus rectifier.....I've seen focus tubes clipped out for them before.

Possible. It did have a '+' on one end of it, but I couldn't get a reading out of it with my meter in diode check mode so out it came. Seems this is gonna be the easiest resto ever...

http://miniman82.4t.com/images/Admiral/IMGP6737.JPG


Got a nice bright raster, and HV doesn't droop even with the brightness control at max. There is a slight blooming though, and I see some drive lines. I'll run through the horizontal setup procedure, purity and convergence, then throw some nice patterns up. :thmbsp:

That is almost certainly a focus rectifier stick....IIRC I tested a good one with a diode tester and got an open circuit during some work a few months back. They are selenium based IIRC and need to have a large (enough to not be measurable on pedestrian modern diode testers) forward voltage drop in order to have sufficiently high PIV to handle focus rectifier duty.

That set looks like it is well on it's way down the right track! Nice work.

If the mystery part is the white thing its a focus stick.
Seen the focus tube, socket & filament winding eliminated a
few times. Sockets were common to burn up.
If you take apart a focus or HV stick its made up with
a stack of disc shaped diodes, many of them..........

73 Zeno:smoke:

That is why they don't test on a new meter with diode test.
Several rectifier wafers in series with a spring at one end.....

.7v + .7v + .7v + .7v ........ 10 of 'em ??

They don't test well analog either.....
They do have a + on one end usually...

.

You can see it in the under chassis shot, it's the white thing near the striped resistor in the upper left of the shot.

Awesome score Nick!

Thanks Mark, maybe we will get to watch a movie on it sometime. I'm moving to Maryland in a few months and il leave a guest room, maybe you can stay a while.

Why is the bezel oval?

Because the digital photo is somehow stretched vertically...It looks like a normal roundy in person. I've seen in person 4-5 of the 8-9 of these known to exist in the last 6 months...

It's because apparently one shouldn't take pictures destined for VK on his Iphone, because the PC doesn't know what to do with them. I'm having trouble on another thread figuring out why they show right side up here at home, but then I check the next day at work and they are sideways (I have to rotate them so they look right, but then they really aren't right for some reason). Lesson learned, Pentax DSLR from here on out.

Took the liberty of getting a HV cage cover started, just a $7 sheet of light gauge steel from Home Depot. Pulled a fast one at Harbor Freight and used their metal bender before I went home, worked pretty good for free 99. :D

I really don't want to drill all those ventilation holes, so I'm toying with the idea of punching louvers in it like I did with the Saratoga. That set turned out really nice, so I might do the same thing here.

http://miniman82.4t.com/images/Admiral/IMGP6738.JPG