Admiral 14R12 Restoration
 

Here's some more pics my daughter took of it. Besides being filthy, the biggest thing that I can see is the speaker is missing. Interesting that all the attaching hardware was put back.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7pi29wcp.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pstpknzanu.jpg

The dirt, I can handle, it's the rust I dont like!
The CRT might be good, no brightner. :thmbsp:

Closest I can come is the console version. The control door is missing here as well. Very common with these Admirals. Courtesy: TVHistory site.

-Steve D.

Steve,
What model number is your attachment?

Thanks.

Yeah, the dirt will clean off. The AMC 116T TV was filthy, but cleaned up real nice. I'm thinking this one will too. Yeah, I was glad to see no brightener. I'll see her in about a week so I'll report back on the CRT and any other findings.

The console model # is 24R12 with 14" screen. I also found this Admiral console listed as a 14R12: http://www.auctionzip.com/auction-lo...ON_1E84A96A0D/. A bit confused

-Steve D.

Rust don't bother me especially when it is only on the inside. Most sets rust where it don't count (chassis surfaces), and you can get the circuits working as good as new, leave the rust and never have a problem...

I've been wanting another Bakelite TV since selling my last ones, so I almost went for this...Then the guy that got it chimed in, and I decided to back off and let him have it.

I know of a place where you could find some of those Admiral Bakelite consoles...

.

The set shown is Bob Casey's set, as shown on his website. That one's a 16" model.
The model numbers that I listed, in an earlier entry for the model in question, were taken from the Rider's volume six, coverage on that model and chassis.

Guys,
Had a chance to look deeper into this TV. It is indeed a 14R12 with a 20T1 chassis.
The CRT tested very low on my BK 476 tester. Below the green. I did a "Clean" on it and it didn't improve much. The rest of the chassis looks pretty good. A little rust on 2 of the mounting feet. Looks like one of the electrolytics has been replaced. Otherwise very much unmolested.

The cabinet has no cracks but certainly needs worked on. No deep scratches or anything like that.

A few of the tubes tested bad but most tested well into the green.

Looking forward to restoring this one.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psywjpkexh.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pseyu6ynao.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pswjfxj6dd.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psu82rs3a9.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pscogl3b0z.jpg

It looks like a rebuilt CRT. The set appears to have been used, well into the 60's, judging from the replacement tubes. :scratch2:

Can you go into more detail as to why you think it is a rebuilt CRT and also what tubes gives you the clue to say that the set was used well into the 60's. I'm thinking maybe I could learn something.

Thanks.

60s style 5u4 and horizontal output tube may be why he said that

HV rect looks to have very sharp edges to the top glass...That did not come till the mid-late 60's I believe.

The original CRT, usually had an Admiral run number and their name stamped in orange ink or paint stamped on the CRT.
The great pictures you furnished don't show a brand name on the CRT base.
The CRT's in a set that age, wouldn't make it past about five years. :no:

Thanks guys for the insight on dating when the TV was serviced!

Since this has gone from a "set for sale" thread to a repair thread I decided to move it to this forum. I left a redirect for one week so everyone can find it.

I have this set too. Very thick Bakelite and heavy as can be. Mine is actually a copper plated chassis. Chassis 20T1. I also have the 14" console to match. Extremely well made and great sets once restored.

Eric,
Thanks for the relocation. I was going to shut down the For Sale thread and start a restoration thread.

I'm looking forward to restoring this TV. This is my first Admiral and you're right. The cabinet is stout!

An Admiral, like the one you have, will respond very well to new components. It is very rewarding when you apply power and it just works.

Good luck, please make sure to document and post pictures.

Just to let everyone know, this set uses a 14CP4 CRT. It is a model 14R12 with a 20T1 chassis. Brown Bakelite cabinet.

I misquoted the CRT type number as a 14CP4. Must have been thinking of a 17BP4. I was right with the model and chassis number, per Riders eight.
This model doesn't use the audio output, as the voltage divider, like the 20Z1, a year earlier. :scratch2:

I think you said 14BP4 in the classifieds post. Looking at the specs for 14CP4 and 14BP4 they look very close. Both spherical faces I believe.

Poor proof reading again! I meant 14CP4. I knew, there was a 14BP4, RCA used a 14EP4, which is similar. It all depended on the manufacturer, who made the tube, which number they assigned to it.
It's probably 50 years ago, since I bought and installed one. :scratch2:

Today I started on the restoration for reals. I again checked the CRT on my BK 467. All I could get is a .45 reading. Still into the red even after about a half hour. I then decided to try it in my 16" AMC TV. So I swapped the CRT's and the 14" gives a decent picture. Now it was a little out of focus, but it was bright enough! My shop is well lit and the picture showed up real good with all the lights on. So I'm proceeding wit the restoration.

Next up is to check the transformers and coils etc.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...ps53aspq4o.jpg

Earlier in this thread, there was a discussion on the CRT. It looks like it is a replacement. It has not been rebuilt. It is a CBS Hytron 14CP4. I couldn't read the date code.

This CRT has 2 getters. One on each side of the neck between 2 bands of the internal aquadag.

I'm including some pictures of the label and what the getters look like.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pstqejh88s.jpg

After a good look over, I pulled the HV rectifier tube and the lead off the 1B3GT tube then powered up the chassis using my variac and meters. No problems and all the tubes lit up. I used my meter to check the HV rectifier and 1B3GT tube heaters. All checked ok.

Why did you pull the 1B3 ? No harm is gong to come from leaving it installed.

You're right. Seeing the rectifier tube was pulled. Just being overly cautious and still being new to this.

Sure, I understand. What I typically do is pull the 5U4 rectifier tube for the first power up. That will kill B+ to the entire set and only the filaments get power. Then I put my DMM in AC mode and probe the 5U4 socket. Should have around 5 VAC for the filament and 700-800 between the plates. That's a quick way to see if the power transformer is any good without risking damaging anything.

If you are worried about protecting the flyback while testing other stuff the better tube to pull would be the Horizontal output.

Pulling the rectifier tube is the first thing I do!
On the horiz out, remove the entire tube, not just the plate cap. Just lifting the plate cap, can still destroy the H.O, because of no plate voltage. :thumbsdn:

All good stuff. Thanks guys for the tips. I'm going to check for the high voltage from the transformer at the 5U4G tube. I didn't do that yet.

612vac at the 5U4G tube pins 4 and 6. Riders says 310vac each side.

Guys, I could use a little help. I am checking the mica caps as to their location in the chassis and their values to compare them to the schematic. I think one of them isn't the value as shown on the schematic, both Sams and Rider's. I've taken close ups of the micas and would like some help in reading the dot codes. I've got the Radio Daze color page describing how to read them.

What I would like is for you guys to confirm their values from the pictures. Just to see if I'm reading them right.

The 1st one is C403. Yellow, violet, black, brown, silver, orange
The 2nd one is C404. White?, yellow, violet, red, silver, black
The 3rd one is C413. Grey, red, black, white?, silver, green
The 4th one is C420. Yellow, violet, black, black, silver, blank
The 5th one is C421. Yellow, blank?, black, red, silver, black

Thank you for your help.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psgfpnsvz9.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psyoylgjyt.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psxuhaxtxz.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pstoikpbhv.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4wempfav.jpg

Here are my best guesses

1st 47 pF (might be 4700 ?)
2nd 470 pF
3rd 82 pF
4th 47 pF
5th 1000 pF

Remember most schematics don't reflect some or all production changes (Admiral had MANY), schematics (especially Sam's) had errors/typos, and that if it was factory wired the way it currently is then it is likely to work better being left alone than it will if you make it match the schematic. So it is most advisable to leave the factory wiring config alone till you finish recap and other avenues of troubleshooting.

Also you probably know this, but micas rarely fail and often are in circuits that require re-alignments after cap change (sometimes even lead dress changes can upset it). Leave micas under 1000pF alone unless you have good reason to believe they are bad. Ones over 1000pF often are not really micas, but paper caps in mica's clothing, and as a matter of policy I normally change them.

Bob, Thanks for taking the time to reply. It's appreciated.

#1 is listed as C403 .0047mfd mica or 4700pf
#2 is listed as C404 .006mfd mica or 6000pf
#3 is listed as C413 82mmfd mica or 82pf
#4 is listed as C420 470mmfd 5% mica or 470pf
#5 is listed as C421 .001mfd 5% mica or 1000pf

Both Sams and Rider's agree on the values. As you can see #1 and #2 differ. #3-5 agree with both parts lists. BTW the part designators are from Rider's.

I then remembered that my multimeter can check the values of capacitors. Both #1 and #2 measured out to 4.70nf or 4700pf.

I really don't know why the color code is so difficult to determine the value of these caps.

Looks like I'll be using 4700pf 5% 500V Silver Micas for their replacement.

I'm including the schematic from Rider's.

OK. I can see the 2nd one has a red multiplier dot I thought was brown earlier. As for the first. I think it's a variant that has three digits (yellow. violet, black) then a X10 multiplier (brown).

As Tom mentioned, Admiral did many production run changes. You should have a run # stamped somewhere on your chassis.