Samsung Celebrity Tv with an odd power issue
 

Hey all, a buddy of mine brought me a Samsung celebrity tv he would really like to have going. The problem with this set is that it powers up for only a couple seconds, then it shuts itself off. With a problem like this I am not too sure where to start looking.

Any help would be great!

Usually the power supply isnt regulating & triggering HV shut down ( HVSD )
Could also be over current in HV such as a bad FBT.

To diagnose safely you need a variac & AC amp meter.

1) unplug the degausser.
2) hook meter in series with AC line.
3) plug in to variac set at apx 90 V
4) turn on but DONT let the meter go above 1 amp.
If it draws over an amp its 95% HV.
If it stays on its 95% power supply.
Sometime a set wont start at 90 V. turn up a little at a time till it starts.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

The 13" models always seemed to need a 13013 regulator. I don't remember the exact number. :scratch2:

STR30130 IIRC last 3 numbers are the voltage output.
Also came in 30110, 30120, 30123, 30125. maybe more...
Also either Samsung or Gold star had a glass diode across 2 pins that shorted.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

I have a couple questions about this before I mess with with this set. Luckily I do have a variac and plenty of meters so this shouldn't be too bad. Anyways I am not sure how to put the meter in series with the AC line. Am I hooking the positive lead to one side of the AC line, and the Negative to the other? I am afraid of blowing the meter honestly.

Also I am a bit confused what you mean by "95%". Do you mean that it's a 95% chance that is the issue? May be a stupid question but I am trying to not miss a single detail in the instructions to ensure the right results and to avoid damaging anything.


Also not sure if this helps but this set is 19".

First make sure you're using a meter that measures amps and leave one lead at the meter end connected to common as usual; you'll probably have to move the other to the appropriate connector. That's how it works with my meter anyway, no idea if others and/or newer ones differ. As for connecting it in series with the line, one side has to be disconnected from the set somehow--the hot side will work for sure but I'm not sure of neutral--and the meter itself used to complete the circuit. I have never used the amps setting on mine, I'm yet to rig up some kind of pigtail connector I can quickly and safely plug into.

I believe you're right about the 95% probability part, I can't imagine it meaning anything else.

Yes 95% chance thats the area of problem.
The meter goes in series with the line. In other words
you are cutting one of the wires & inserting the meter.
Its a very common process so make up a little test jig.
If you happen to have a Sencore "Power Right" everything
is there for you, isolation, variac & metering. Great to have
but still costs $$ used due to its many uses.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD!

Instead of cutting the wire I will unsolder the live side and connect everything there. Eventually a test rig will be made but I just have to find all the parts around here and something to mount them in/on. I am a bit afraid of frying my meter but first I will try this with a junk meter, then move to the better meter.

I looked on the internet at those Sencore units and saw one for over $400. It sure is a nice unit though. I will keep an eye out locally for a unit like that (I've got many C-list adds looking for this stuff). Locally not too much has shown up but what has shown up gets used almost every day.

I'll update this once I get everything set up and tested. The owner would love to have this set back and I wouldn't mind the extra bench space.

Good call, I've done my share of damage due to inexperience.

On my meter the jack for testing current draw is fused so nothing to worry about. I would rather avoid blowing the fuse though, those I need tend to be unavailable locally.

Keep your eye on the listings, 4 bills sounds like a pretty common gouging for one of those units. Fortunately I found a nice one for a decent price when I had some extra scratch come in, around 3 bills shipped in early 2015, and even then the cross-border shipping prices were pretty bad. I'll probably still make a test jig for my meter though as that measures current draw up to 10A.

So I just tested the tv and the amp draw is 1.5 amps roughly. When I saw that I smacked the emergency kill button on the variac to avoid damaging anything. I have had units cook in the past to hopefully this set is okay.


Even if a fuse is blown on a meter sometimes you have to get another one. I blew a fuse in my craftsman meter and that caused it to become wildly inaccurate with resistance tests and now on some setting instead of reading "0.00" it always gets a reading. Maybe that's just the nature of this particular meter when it gets damaged, but I have been warned about fuses protecting a unit too late.

I will certainly keep an eye out for one of those. I am trying to get a bunch of tv repair equipment Saturday from someone with bulk. Maybe a hidden gem will be in there. Dang I hope so.

Quick update here, there are already some bad parts.

On the heatsink there are two transistors, a 2sd555 and a STR30125. The 2sd555 is obviousally bad, and the STR30125 seems to have taken damage since the collector reads as 711 ohms, and the emitter reads as 2850ish ohms. From what I can tell both of these parts are part of the HV section.


So far I haven't found any other dead parts which is odd. It is also odd that the fuses did not blow. They are covered in heavy dust so it is obvious they have not been replaced.

Did you remember to unplug the degaussing coil before powering up? That draws a lot of current on a cold start.

I think it's likely you'll get some good stuff out of that bulk deal, assuming you're in the US. I got my modest selection from US sellers, it's a lot harder to find that stuff North of the border, especially in my region.

I wouldn't expect much from a Craftsman meter, especially a newer one. I use a Fluke 77.

The STR is the 125V regulator.
2SD555 makes no sense. Maybe a 2SD1555 ?? if
so its the hoz out. They only dead short, will get zero ohms
no mater where the leads are.
Did you get pix or sound ?
Also post the model ###

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

Yes, the coil was unplugged. Funny thing though, but this set and my trinitron are the only sets I have even noticed the coil on. They all do have them though, right?

I am in the US so maybe this lot of gear will be decent. I am helping someone get into the hobby so this will be good from him as well. The owners think it's awesome someone messes with old Tv's like they used to so that's always good,

My bad, the transistor is a 2sd1555 model, which I have ordered in a set of 5pcs for $1.42 free shipping (surprising really). This one is not a dead short, but it reads something no matter where the leads are so it is not longer functioning as a transistor. More like a wonky three way resistor. I have had transistors in amp sections do this so and it was not pretty.


This set did not stay on long enough to get a picture. I did briefly get a low pitched garbled noise out of the speaker (terrifying noise too, it made me jump), but then the set turned off.

The model is "celebrity" TC9140M according to the tag. I did not see a number on the chassis so hopefully that is enough info to identify it.

Yup all modern colors have a DGS coil.
Set is unlisted in Sams. Look on CRT socket for a chassis ##
like K20. If not there look on main board. We can still go father
without a manual.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

BTW for all.........
MOST horizontal outputs ( HOT's) from the late 70's on have a built in
damper diode & base resistor. The resistor goes from B-E & screws up
that reading. The damper diode will give a diode reading E-C one way
& wide open the other on the meters diode setting.

BTW #2
I lied ! I had ONE HOT open out of hundreds I found shorted. In a Zenith
custom series 25".

BTW #3
Quick check of HOT is ground meter & measure C to ground. If shorted
unsolder the HOT's C & retest. if no short its somethin else like FBT.
If the HOT is shorted the fun begins finding out why it did without
blowing parts.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

According to the socket the model is "K-50".

The board has no number, but it does say "file name: CT513V". Is this something to do with the SAMS?

Also I should have ordered the STR30125 shouldn't I?

Got the parts in today and have a small issue. The new 2sd1555 reads the same as the old. I have not found any bad parts in that case, so I am not sure where to look next. I think maybe a cap went bad but so far all caps are in spec.

Found a bad resistor and replaced it. I did the power up procedure and the set did not go over an amp... at first. The raster was an odd rainbow mixed with the way a screen looks when it has bad caps (caps in the power and hv section are good). The screen was slowly flashing and causing the amp meter to jump between .8 amps up to 1.1 amps with each pulse. The set also smelled like a very warm tv but it smelled stronger so I am not sure if something is dying or what. The pulsing is the main concern since it was a bit unsettling.

Disregard. It is still drawing 1.5 amps.

Here is a picture of the screen though.

I have started recapping and testing every single part but nothing is bad so far so I guess I will have to check it all again. There is an IC chip of some sorts in the HV section. Maybe that could be the problem but it is unmarked.

Run for about 30 sec then unpower & feel the 2SD1555.
To hot to touch most likely bad FBT or rectifier off it.
If cool or a little warm turn up variac & see if things improve.
The amps sometimes fall as the AC volts go up.
Keep in mind the HOT can short again if not careful. My advantage
doing this was knowing what I could get away with !

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

When I stop fighting with that trinitron project I'll try this.

I'm starting to wonder if something isn't getting enough power in the set. With the Samsung at 90vAC it looks like the trinitron screen at around 50ish volts. I'd suspect caps but they've all tested good so far. Dang TVs are a challenge compared to other electronics.

The transistor was cool to the touch and raising the AC caused the amps to go up. Then the screen started pulsing and an odd smell filled my shop. Something is giving off heat somewhere on the board. A laser thermometer really would come in handy probably.

I'm going to look through some case histories and see if any sets in the book have had the same issue or something close.

Feel the electrolytics and see if the main one is getting hot or warm. They can give off a funny smell as well.
It's a good learning tool, but unfortunately it's not worth the money and effort you're putting into it.

Haven't felt the cap for heat yet, but I can smell something strong when the set is on. Kinda like a mix of burning rubber and warm electronics smell, but it fills the room kinda fast.

Yeah I have to agree. TVs are good to learn on but make no money. But if I was into it for the money I wouldn't be doing it. Personally I just really hate flat screen TVs and want these CRT sets to stick around in general circulation as long as possible.