Sony kv-1913 SCC-265B-A trinitron manual or help
 

Hey all, today is not my day. All I wanted to do was adjust my favorite Tv but I had an accident with it. The coax hookup to my signal generator fell into the chassis and bridged between the chassis and the AC line. Or at least that's what I think. I am really not sure..

Anyways I found a burnt resistor but I can not read the value. With a meter it reads arounf 200ohms so I am guessing there is some other issue. This is my favorite and best tv so I really would like to get it going. So far there has been luck with finding a manual.


Also no luck setting the convergence really, but now this set is a bit too dead to do that with.

So far I have found the main 2SD870 transistor is shot, along with the Mn8303. Both of these are on the heatsink. I also found the 2sA893 transistor in the power supply is bad as well.

Since I have never done this repair before I am really hoping all goes well. I feel more obligated to fix this set since I am the one who ruined it in the first place.

I must say that the build quality is disappointing for this set. I expected a whole lot more inside, but then again I am used to working on Zenith.

All needed parts have been ordered (with a little extra just in case). So far the price has gone over $40 which is a bit much for a poor college student but hopefully this set will live..

Check the rectifiers also. If its a bridge change all 4 even if only
one is bad. 3A 1000V good to use.
Get the "R" number for the resistor. I should have the manual
& will look it up later.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

Thanks for your reply. All of the diodes in the bridge are okay. I tested them with a hikok component tester (just a new toy from the dump), and pulled them out and tested them with a meter.

The burnt out resistor is R605 in the power supply. Both transistors near it are also toast. The larger one is Q602, and the larger is Q601. Both are ordered but they’re coming from China, and an a buddy of mine has the TO3 type transistors that blew. I believe in was a 2sd870.

R605 is 150 ohm 1/8 watt
2SD870 is the horz out / damper
Q602 MN8303 reg out
Q601 2SA893 reg driver
F602 is probably also blown

This is a GOOD candidate to start up slow. Use the directions I gave you
for the Samsung but start it at zero volts turning it up slowly & watching
the ampmeter. All after you changed things of course.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

Still waiting on parts from China for this, so it may be a very long time until I get this thing going. I just cleaned out a Tv shop and was hoping to find the parts for this set, but no luck.

Is there anything else in the circuit I should double check again?

Got a couple of the parts in and now have a question. The NTE36 transistor that is on the heatsink (labeled Reg out) does not have a mica insulator between it and the heatsink. Did it ever have one? I don't remember one and I don't know how to tell if it should have one or not. It not having one would be an explanation of how the original accidental short blew those parts (bridging the AC line with the chassis, sending the AC through the REG out).

So is it missing an insulator or is it supposed to not have one?

Collector goes to ground anyways so no mica needed. Wouldnt
hurt to put some owl shit on it.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

Thanks a million! I already put some of that good ole stuff on it but had to stop because of this last bit of confusion.

Hopefully the other parts will be here tomorrow so we can see what the TV can or can't do.

:lmao: Took me a couple of moments to realize you were talking about thermal paste.
If you need to put some on a Zenith you should call it Sumuf shit...Some of the Zenith kits came with blue heatsink compound.

That's why all my receptacles are GFCI.
It could easily prevent a mishap like this. When I first started using them, I bumped a chassis with a grounded cable TV coax and it tripped instantly, no damage to the set. It happened a few times.
Also, none of my test equipment is grounded. I use those 3 to 2 prong adaptors on the equipment that has grounding plugs.
AC/DC sets, an isolation transformer. :thmbsp:

Bad news, but the set is still dead. I did the startup procudure the same as that Samsung set I have in another thread. The tuner lights up but there are no other signs of life. Any ideas on where to go now? I am going to probably just take the whole power supply apart again.

Here is a list of checked parts. I'm going to wrap this up for tonight.

R608, 610, 606, 603, 607, 241, 239, 609, 602, 525A

D204, 203, 510

Q203, Q502

EDIT: Installed the board back into the unit and now it powers up and gives raster. The raster is crazy looking though. Basically the static is extremely colorful so maybe the convergence is way off.

The TV draws way under 1 amp. Is this good?

It was said in the olden days the clear stuff was best for clean-up but worst
for conduction.
White was next & it had another name I will let you guess:scratch2:
Pink next.
Blue was said to be best for heat conduction.
Once at a NAP seminar IIRC the C3 POS chassis was blowing vert IC's.
After mods they gave us a Zenith part # for a transistor & told us
"throw away the transistor & use the blue compound on the IC."
When asked why NAP didnt include it we were met with silence......
You will find blue or pink compound in many Zenith 800-### kits.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

Turn color all the way down. If still there adjust the H-Stat
control. Its on a block with the anode lead.


73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

Adjusting the controls kinda helped, but the colorful static is probably because of the really bad convergence (I struggled real bad setting this set and have certainly bumped the rings around the CRT a time or two).

Here is the best picture I could get of the set when hooked up to a Sencore VA62. The Sencore has proven to be an unreliable unit with a ton of problems so the patterns it puts out flash and are warped. I will have to pull out a Sencore VA48 or Heathkit IG-28 after some cleaning.

Hopefully this thing doesn't blow up..

Right now the set is running full voltage and the convergence seems as good as I can get it (right top of screen seems off but we have that issue with every tv).

The color static is still there, and I think I hear a low pitch rumble which doesn't sound all that great. Tomorrow I might have time to hook it up to an old Nintendo to see how it works with an actual input.

The main issue is trusting the unit. I had the same issue when working on audio and never trusting a unit after a repair to the extent where I hoard repaired gear that came in super blown up. Though this set will never change ownership it would be nice to have a way to trust a repaired unit more..

Slight issue, but now the picture is distorted. I used 2 of the same system and have had no luck changing this. Ideas?

That horizontal shift in the orange does it also move up or down on the screen slowly (like top to bottom in around 11 sec)? If it rolls vertically that means 60Hz from the power input is making it into places in the set it should not be. Could be in the signal (using a different signal device should show that), or could be bad filter caps in the TV.

If it does not roll does it clear up if brightness and color level are reduced to a minimum for a noticeable image on the screen? Does it go away if fine tuning on set is adjusted or signal reduced (could be signal overloading).

It does not roll up or down at all, but it does kinda shake back and forth a little. The odd thing is that it didn't do this with the signal generator, or if it did I didn't notice it. This set has always worked with this nintendo.

Adjusting those controls did nothing. Fine tuning changes the picture just a tiny bit. When it fades out to black and white the problem is just a hair less severe.

I'm going to try the horizontal hold controls but I don't think that'll fix an issue that is only on half of the screen.


EDIT: nothing has made this problem better.

With normal gameplay the problem is gone, so I have no idea what the issue is.

But now to yet another issue with this set. There is a ton of static in the picture and I can't get the blacks black. Any black stays a shade of grey. The higher I crank the tv up on the variac the worse this gets. Also when watching regular TV there is a hum that can be heard with every scene change.

It seems like this is a never ending project.

Edit: the hum went away??? no idea what the deal was. Blacks seem good now, but the static is awful. I've been resoldering connections and looking in a few manuals I have labeled as " TV case histories by Michael B. Danish". They're great guides but only if the set you have is listed, and so far that hasn't been the case. They have helped answer some questions here and there though.

Okay guys, I think I got it. I re-soldered the IC chip in the IF section and the set seems to be acting fine with an original nintendo. Also one of the controls in the "dad panel" had a leg that was poorly soldered from the factory. I filled it in more properly but am unsure if that was the issue.

Looking through casefiles of snowy picture in Sony sets, almost every single one had bad solder joints on the IC chip in the IF section. The only ones that didnt had an issue in the tuner, but the tuner drifted.