St Regis radio?
 

Picked this up today. as far as i can tell, it's a St. Regis model 661, made by International Kadette in 1935.

The cabinet is in pretty good shape. Knobs look correct. I think it's missing a logo that goes under the center bottom knob. 5 tubes. Plug has been cut off. Grille cloth is in good shape and looks to be original.

Nothing too special I suppose, but a nice looking old tombstone radio.

https://i.imgur.com/OUHiY7v.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/zfLyN1X.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/Ml4NSv9.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/LQAlAJD.jpg?1

HOLY SHIrT thats a sweet one!! :D

SR

I know nothing about this model. Never seen one before and there doesn't seem to be much info floating around about it.

It looks like a good find, I have a weakness for a radio using a 6B7 as a first amp and detector. Wells-Gardner used it in several models as well.
At least, it doesn't use a resistor line cord, but it does use a few octal tubes.

Weird duck. No power transformer.

Think it would be difficult to restore?

Very nice find. You can't beat tombstone sets from 1935-36. They're all nice. It seems that would've been a budget set, but it's a beauty. I have someone do the elec. restorations on my sets and by the look of that one I doubt you'll have any problems getting it playing. Good luck and enjoy it!

It just dawned on me, ST. Regis was a Rexall drug store brand. I've seen inexpensive wind-up alarm with that branding.
I looked up the schematic and it uses a 3000 ohm field coil connected across the B+ instead of being used as a choke. Circuit is a bit more interesting than the average set of it's day. :thmbsp:

:thmbsp: Yep , the tube in front of the 43 output tube is a ballast tube , If I were going transformerless I'd way rather a ballast tube VS a curtain burner line cord .

Curtain burner line cord? Sounds ominous.

:eek: Oh yes , it was .

The term "Curtain Burner" comes from the 1930s radios that had a resistance wire built into the line cord to drop the 110 volt AC to the combined (series) 68 volt requirement for the tube's heaters . The 25Z5 and 43 output both have 25 volt heaters , for 50 volts required . Add in the 6 volt requirement of the other three tubes and we add 18 volts to the 50 for 68 volts combined heater requirement . Some sets used a ballast tube (like your set uses) to drop the "extra" 42 volts from the 110 volt line (110 - 68 = 42) and some sets used the resistance wire . The line cord could and did get hot enough dissipating that extra power that fires were started , especially if the line cord was touching something very flammable , like for instance some curtains .

Most folks nowadays eliminate the curtain burner cord and go instead with an AC capacitor to safely (and without heat) drop those extra 42 volts . Since your set uses the ballast tube no such re engineering of the heater circuit will be needed . The one caveat here being that the ballast tube is essentially a light bulb with a tapped element (to provide power for your dial lamps) and is subject to burning out just like any other light bulb is . I would recommend picking up a spare or two of the ballast tube to have on hand since as years go on they ain't getting any easier to find ....

..Or just go with a capacitor, with a small value resistor to shunt the dial light. Leave the ballast tube in place for looks.

Ceiling fan speed control caps work great. Gobs of 'em on Amazon.

International Kadette evolved into Detrola Corp later.
Most of the products they built were private labeled products. :scratch2:

Were the ballast tube burnt out and unobtainable sure I'd run an AC capacitor in it's stead and not think twice about altering the circuit , in my opinion running condition trumps original condition with most tube radios . But , since I'll bet replacements for the original ballast tube are still available , and since the ballast tube carries no built in safety hazard by design like the curtain burner cord does , I'd be inclined to leave the circuit as is and stock up on a couple or few spare ballast tubes while they are still somewhat available .

It looks to me like a keeper. It's fairly rare and has good reception.

3-gang tuning cap. Doesn't look like there's an RF stage, though.

If the ballast tube is readily available and reasonably priced, then fine. The 165R8 number seems to be a Triad or Hytron number. JFD numbers are different.
When the set was new there was a lot of DC districts, so a resistive dropper had to be used.

Wells-Gardner used a four-gang tuning condenser in their high tube count superhets. It seemed that the fourth section was used as some sort of an antenna pre-selector.
I looked at the schematic again and it's not being used at all. I thought maybe, as they built that set as a long-wave model, they used it, but they didn't!
Possibly a chassis layout or an inventory reason. :scratch2:

I've had many working "curtain-burner" radios in my many years of collecting and you could literally lay the cord in a pile of dry paper shreds and nothing will happen. Even after long play time it only gets moderately warm. Pure urban legend that it will burn the house down.
It's the same urban legend with the sheet of asbestos on the top of the inside of the radio in which you better put your Hazmat suit on and dispose of it before it sends you to an early grave!

That's been my experience with 'em also. The gripe is more on the cheezyness factor than any real hazard.

I agree. I like those sets with their original thick cloth cords. Right now I have about 5 that work excellent.

:rolleyes:

The real cheap and nasty four tube TRF's were referred to as "Depression radios". They all used the resistive cord droppers and many were sold for around $10 USD. Many of the ones I ran into the cord was damaged one way or another. Most of the time the resistance wire was pulled loose from the plug connection and the plug was replaced.
If the cord was in good condition in later years, many times the resistance wire was rusted open as the wire was some kind of an iron alloy for ballasting action, just like the ballast tubes had.

If the builder of the product wanted U/L listing, they couldn't get it on a set equipped as such.

I'm sure of that. It definitely isn't the greatest idea, but the severity of it has been a little exaggerated over the years by collectors.