1953 Arvin 8213 Restoration
 

Guys I found the cabinet and a donor chassis. This thread will be on the restoration and marriage of both.

I got the cabinet but it didn't have the chassis or speaker. I then bought an Arvin console TV from the same year. Both TV's are 21". Both had all glass picture tubes in them. Rider's says they should have 21MP4 metal/glass CRT's. More on that a little later.

Here is the cabinet:

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Here is a picture of the backside of the donor.

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The cabinet CRT had this label on it:

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Sure enough I confirmed that it was a 8213 that we had growing up.

Now some pictures of the chassis.

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When I bought the console I noticed that the HV cage cover was missing. We looked at another Arvin console the guy had and sure enough that cage was missing too. After getting it home and pulled out of the cabinet, it was apparent why it wasn't there. Both TV's originally came with a 21MP4 a metal/glass CRT. Both of these TV's had all glass CRT's. They were 21ZP4A and a 21ZP4B. The glass tubes were larger and the retrofit required "modifying" the HV cage.

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Of course I'll rework the cage by putting on a sloped corner and cover.

Here is the standard bottom picture of the chassis. Not bad.

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Yeah, there were rodents here one time.

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Another challenge will be because this chassis really isn't the correct one, it is not a slip fit in. The front controls are about 1/2" high. Looks like I could lower them without too many problems. Also the "Pencil Box" controls will have to be moved more to the right and the chassis has 5 controls and a slide switch. My cabinet has 3 controls (plus a spare hole) and a slide switch. One of the front panel controls will have to be "hidden" somehow. I'm sure I can work it out.

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A big undertaking for sure.

BTW, it doesn't hurt asking if anybody might have one of these TV's complete and would be willing to sell or even just the right chassis number either a TE-319 or a TE-330?

Congrats and good luck.

Maybe you can replace one of the single pots with a concentric shaft dual pot to get the number of shafts poking into the pencil box down, but keep all the controls accessible.

Thanks. A good suggestion. I'll keep it in mind.

The Arvin set shown in entry number 23 from your earlier thread is a newer model using a 90 degree CRT. It also used a heater transformer and a voltage doubler. They also built that set for Sears.
The set shown in this thread is really impressive. Arvin engineer's must've thought, "We can build a set that is as good or better than the big guys."
They also built that model for Sears. It must've been their TOTL model that year. Those used either a 21AP4 or a glass 21ZP4.

Thanks for that info.

Took the chassis to the car wash this evening. Now It's ready to be worked on.

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One of the first things I'd thought I'd do was to see how much of the HV cage needs to be trimmed back away from the CRT. I made a HV cage from some cardboard. I then marked where it should go on the chassis and the mounted the chassis. I notched the corner to match the curvature of the CRT.

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I then decided to give me about 1 inch clearance and cut the cardboard. It took me several tries to get the clearance I wanted.

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I then transferred the cutout to the HV cage. The notch should work out well.

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A good thing was that the chassis mounting holes matched the cabinet! I bolted the chassis in place when doing the HV cage notch it gave me the chance to see how well the controls would fit the front of the cabinet. The pencil box controls lined up very nice to the pencil box and the 2 main controls were just a hair high. I put on the Contrast and Volume knobs and they looked good and you couldn't even see they were slightly high.

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So the only problem would be one extra control shaft in the pencil box.
I wonder how they made the "notch", penknife? Maybe the rodents did it.

Yeah, one extra control.

I was thinking they they used a dull spoon!

Looks like you are making good progress. Your cage mod will probably look worlds better than that nibble from the Iron Giant currently there.:D

I removed the Flyback, Yoke wiring, CRT wiring, and 2 terminal strips off the top side of the chassis so I could clean it better.

I did move the pencil box controls 1 hole over to the right and the "Tone" and "TV/Phono" switch was pushed behind the front panel. I just might make a bracket to mount it to and drill a hole in the bottom of the cabinet to access these controls. We'll see. That will happen a lot further down the road.

In the meantime I'm using a wire wheel/drill and Naval Jelly to get rid of all the rust spots.

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I cleaned up the rust the best I could. In a lot of places the chassis is pretty pitted. I'll probably paint the chassis like I usually do. But this time between the primer and color, I'll fill the pits. Stay tuned.

I also removed the tuner. This TV once had a UHF tuner but it is missing. I wasn't going to use one anyway. The VHF tuner has been removed at one time. More on that later.

Tomorrow I'll start cleaning up the chassis. I already masked off the tube sockets.

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How good is the CRT?

Both tested excellent.

Looks like a fine tooth saw cut. Possibly a jewelers saw that came down from the top corners in an attempt to meet in the middle. :D

It sounds strange that the HV cage had to be cutted while replacing the CRT. The metal cone of the 'old' CRT was supposed to be pretty far from any metal parts to prevent arcing. Is the glass CRT that much bigger than the metal/glass one?

Good luck in restoration of such a wonderful television!

I'm thinking now that it came from the factory that way. My Sams shows a top view of the chassis and sure enough there is that piece of plastic riveted to the HV cage. Of course the cover is off for the photo or there never was one.

I'll post a picture later.

Here's the picture: I suppose that this was because of the metal tube and a HV cover could still be used.

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As my usual practice, I labeled all the components. I also ran to Mouser and picked up the parts that I needed like E-Caps and some resistors.

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Most American CRTs where there were equivalent glass and metal types the bell of the glass tube was shifted back 1-3" compared to the metal.

The metal tube would place the screen right at the edge of the flare, but the glass would place the screen 1-3" out from that and leave a flat side around the screen where a mounting strap could be placed...

Despite many metal glass pairs having basically the same socket to screen dimension, the rear shifted bell meant a shorter neck and repositioning of the yoke...If you've ever converted an American metal CRT set to a glass CRT you probably will have had some fun mounting hardware modifications to do.

I re-stuffed the electrolytic caps in my usual way. This time I used all Nichicon 10K hour 105C caps.
C3 consisted of a 47uf 450V and a 4.7uf 450V caps. They were the same diameter and I used a pieces of heat shrink to connect them together instead of hot glue. I left a small gap between the two in case one vents. I used a large pin to poke several holes through the heat shrink tubing.

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Next was C4 which had 4 caps. I used a 68uf 450V, 2 27uf 450V, and a 100uf 160V.

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Then onto C1 which had 4 caps. I used 47uf 450V, 56uf 450V, 4.7ud 450V, and a 22uf 100V.

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C3 was only 1 cap and I used a 3300 35V cap.

Top view of C1.

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Top view of C2.

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Top view of C3.

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Top view of C4.

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All four ready to install into the chassis. Note that C4 has its can go all the way to the base of the cap. This is the only cap of the 4 that is not insulated from the chassis, hence no paper tube cover.

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I was surprised enough to pull the replacement all-glass picture tube out of a television, in order to compare it with the original metal-glass one:

https://d.radikal.ru/d05/1901/ad/08e163d0662e.jpg

I remember that I hadn't faced any difficulties with replacement a few years ago. I only had to rework the HV supply gear, and change the socket. The cone of the glass tube is just more plumpy but its height is the same, so it fits the original hardware pretty well:

https://d.radikal.ru/d32/1901/e3/7bd4251574f7.jpg

Maybe, the difference is in that my glass CRT is the official replacement for the metal-glass one. What was about American glass CRTs? Were some of them designed as the direct substitutes for obsolete metal tubes, or were they all just newer tubes which had to be used as replacements?

Crist Rigott, you're making good progress on the restoration! Hope to see a picture on the screen soon!

Most compatible metal and glass types in the states were made concurrently or within a 1-3 years of each other... Some metal tubes were directly competing with glass all their lives.

Here in the US metal tubes were only popular in monochrome sets from around 1950 to around 1953.... color CRTs were in development during that time and the metal ones lent themselves best to installation of the shadow mask so when color was standardized in 1953 and into around 1956 (though some Motorola's stuck with metal into the early 60's) metal color tubes were made.

The metal tubes seem more prone to leak and fill with air... Even tubes with just a metal evacuation stem are more prone than ones with glass evacuation stems.

Electronic M, thanks for the information!

Yes, microcracks from the thermal expansion mismatch between metal and glass.

I installed the E-Caps today. Not much to look at in the pictures but I included them anyway. Then I started on the Vertical section. I'll post what I did tomorrow.

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It's been a couple of days. I had a few things around the house to get done and I also had to make another round of PC boards for my Network sales.

I finished the Vertical section this evening. The Vertical section contained a couplate or network! While I was going to make some more Network PC boards I drew up one for the Vertical Integrator network. It consisted of 3 resistors and 3 caps. Simple. I first checked the original and it has 3 resistors between leads 2 and 3 that should add up to 38.4K. These measured out to 48.1K. A 25% difference. This one has to go!

Some before and after pictures. If you look closely you can see the brown Network under the right hand side terminal strip.

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I've moved onto the main section of the chassis. I thought I'd start at the top left and work my way across to the lower right.

On the right side of the two terminal strips were 3 27K 2W resistors twisted in parallel. I have 3 27K 3W resistors ready to go back in. But thought I'd replaced the 3 with 1 9K 10W wire wound resistor. What do you think? Some before and after pics.

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Then on to another section. The lower capacitor is connected to the left hand terminal of the capacitor above it. When I installed its replacement, I jumpered the lower 2 terminals and installed the lower capacitor on its own terminal.

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I'd better install a single 10w resistor. BTW, why are you replacing all the resistors? Are they all out of tolerance?

Mostly. This chassis is proving out just like most of them. About 2/3 are clearly out of tolerance, 1/6 are just in tolerance, and the final 1/6 are within tolerance. So having 5/6 of the resistors out of or just with in tolerance, I change them all. The last thing I want to do is go back in and change a resistor that's causing problems in the future. Another thing, my 1W resistors cost a whooping 4 cents each from Mouser. Why take the chance with a 65 year old resistor?

About installing a 10W wire-wound for the group of three carbon, I would check the schematic to see how that resistor is used. The WW of course has a bit of inductance, so if it is used as a plate load in the video amp it could effect the flatness of the bandwidth. I've seen high wattage carbons used this way. Another place you don't want a WW is in the RF and IF circuits.

As seen from the layout, the resistors are connected in parallel with a paper capacitor of a pretty good value (.047uF), so they don't seem like a plate load; rather a sort of B+ divider, damper or bleeder.
You ought to check the schematic diagram to make it clear.

Some of those resistors look a little tired.
BTW, what procedure do you use to remove all the old leads and solder from the terminal strips? On occasion, I use a desoldering iron like used on PC boards.
As usual, amazing work!

Guys, here is the schematic of those 3 resistors. R131,R132, R133. Looks like I could use a wire wound resistor there...right?

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I usually clip the component free leaving about 1/4 to 3/8 inch on the terminal strip. I then use solder wick to get as much solder off. Then I remove the old leads and again solder wick for final solder clean up. Then using a cut down acid brush, I brush with some acetone to clean off the old resin and make the terminal nice and clean. Then on to installing the new components.

Yes you can use any type there; it's just a current limiter for the 2nd grid of the horizontal output tube (V23). It seems that three usual carbon resistors were simply cheaper than a single wirewound one.

I agree that a wire wound should be OK there. Seems odd the way they have the other side of C123 connected to the cathode instead of ground, as if there was some AC signal to be transferred from one to the other.

I installed the wire wound.

While I was on the same side as the Candohm, it was reworked with 3 25W chassis mounted resistors and I used some 2W resistors to "Trim" them to the correct values. All within 1.2 ohms or less than specified.

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I then continued working my way through the chassis. I reworked the interlock, V23 and surrounding area.

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Another section completed. This section had some repair work done to it before I got to it.

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Reworked V18 the Sync Amp and Syns Sep. This pretty much completes the Vertical section. Tomorrow I'll move downward through the chassis to the Horiz. section.

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