IF CE Manufacturing could make caps for CTC11, any interest?
 

I had asked CE Manufacturing if they could make caps with the exact specs as the cans used in the CTC11 chassis. they said they could, but need a 50 piece minimum order on each type.

I was thinking of running only the 2 multi-section cans since the single section cans could be made from existing CE cans, just parallel the sections.

But there needs to be at least 50 people interested for them.

I havent even begun to sit downand think how to handle the logisitics.

First hurdle is to see how much interest is there.

They will be made to RCA schematic specs. same value, voltage, temp rating. or so i was told. i asked them if they coudl bump up the working voltage, but i guess they came back with the same specs i gave them, which was the original values.

Unlikely to get that many interested, for the following.
Most out there have different sets and not just the CTC-11 flavor , ( example, I have a 16xl) , and where as the combo caps are similar set type to set type, they are not exactly the same, and most , ( myself for example ) chose to replace the combo caps with new type ( multiple ) hidden under the chassis, while un-hooking the old and leaving them in to keep the orig look.

There's already enough different types of FP style cans to get the job done, only exception is the sets with voltage doublers with the 160uf section. In that case there's still enough room on a 7 thru 11 chassis to tack that value in underneath, which usually leaves other values in the can for other purposes. I see that as a bonus, not a hindrance.

With how much a reproduction can costs I rather restuff the original if appearances are of the essence or just disconnect the originals and install individuals wherever is convenient...It ain't a Mcintosh or Hammond Organ where the audiophools buying it will try to knock a third off the value if the under-chassis don't look like factory with new parts.

example,
https://imgur.com/xDYwQuN
2 of the 80uf caps that i stuck above the main filter coil ( which is hooked to the main LV bridge way at the other end of the chassis ) , stuck in with Electronic Grade Silicone.
The caps they replace are at the other end, unhooked, I have these tucked and hidden all under the chassis

Electrolytic cans that are new are available, however probably not to the exact specs as the original cans. However most likely you can find values that will work perfect in it's place, and look original. I haven't had a lot of luck re-stuffing, and it's quite time taking to do so. I agree it's a lot easier to replace a whole can than in some cases to tack them underneath. Most of the time there is room underneath but in some cases things are so cramped that putting them underneath is almost impossible. Here is a link to a place that has new electrolytic cans hopefully in stock.

https://www.newoldsounds.com/electro...list_limit=all

www.newoldsounds.com

I wouldnt have started this thread if the exact values in a new CE can were offered. they are not. I also havent combed through RCA schematics to see if other chassis can use those values. maybe there are others.

Too bad. it is easier to replace the can, than it is to restuff or put under the chassis. do any of you sometimes wonder how your mods will lend themselves to future repairs?

All I know so far is my exp with the CTC-16(x-l)

Modern electrolytic caps are much smaller and better lasting than they were in the 60s, there is no stated rule that the B+ caps MUST be replaced with the EXACT value uf and voltages, nor must they be placed exactly in the same place physically, as long as they have the same connection electronically.
As Electronic M and others has stated, the old can can be stuffed with the needed values or in most cases with values 10%-20% higher uf/voltage and function wont be affected, and since as I mentioned, the newer caps are much smaller, they can fit almost anyplace.
For example, on mine I started from the top of the voltage divider tree and worked down ( checking voltage every step) , first cap replaced, right out of the LV bridge rectifier was 80uf @ 450v now 100uf @500v, same with the next, 30uf @ 450v now a 40uf @500, and so on and on... till all filters replaced,
B+ is measured an stable, old caps still in, but un-hooked, none of the new caps can be seen from above

You'd have to look at the schematics for the later run CTC7 and the CTC 9,10,12 and maybe the 15's and clones. The CTC16 and newer used a bridge rectifier and different values. Also some of the newer clones. :scratch2:

its too bad CE cant just make the caps, and offer them up as regular stock. noope. they want 50 piece minimum per can. i figured it would be an idea with some merit. guess not.

Who is CE? Is that the firm that took the Mallory capacitor line?
They should build 3X40mfd@ 450, 80-80@450. etc. They'd sell them by the thousands. :scratch2:

CE Manufacturing, they are one of the few who still make Multi-Section, can types, but they charge $$$ for custom made stuff, not worth it in my view.

Even their regular stuff (as can be seen in Walter's link) is grossly overpriced...$40 for a can with 4X 40uF@450V. I can get 4 39uF@450V caps on mouser for $4.80 or $8 if instead of buying the cheapest part I went with a 105C rated cap with a good reputation like Panasonic or Nichicon.

For the ~15 min I'd save sticking them under the chassis or the ~30 min for a restuff the $30-35 savings is well worth my time...Especially when I'm voraciously recapping 3-4 TV sets in a week when I'm going full tilt...

It is the same reason I buy from mouser 1-3 times a year and try to stock myself for a whole year of restoration...The caps get even cheaper when you hit the 10,50 or 100 count per part price breaks, and 1 $7 shipping charge for ~500 caps is better than 50 $7 shipping charges for 50 orders of 10 caps...

If you are only ever going to restore say 5 sets a year paying for audiophool stuff ain't going to hurt you, but once volume goes up so should your desire to get the most bang for your buck.

CE Manufacturing is actually Antique Electronic Supply, and they are going after the audiophool market. Those folks don't mind spending money.

Given that electrolytics have only gotten smaller (astonishingly so) over the years so any new individual cap 30 years in the future should fit where the one I installed yesterday is now...Unless the apocalypse comes and those left are dealing with a world where tech was set back 40 years...

Some sets have a good bit of room under chassis where the original cap was and if you spend a buck or two on a 5 terminal strip with one grounded terminal you can mount all your caps for a can to it, solder the ground flange to chassis (or bolt it if you lack a 75W Iron needed for mechanically sound chassis solder joints) and you then have something almost as convenient as changing the can...

On chassis grounded cans it is much easier adding individual caps...There are ground points everywhere on most chassis so just clip the wire at the can, find it's other end clip that too (or unsolder it) and fit a cap there...You may even get better filtering and less noise radiation if the cap is right at the ripple source rather than half a chassis away with a long wire (read noise radiating device) stretched to it. Also almost all new caps with reasonably long leads (not those snap fit ones with 1/4" tabs) have stout enough leads that the leads hold them in place securely.

CTC-15 chassis seem to have a lot of nice terminal strip locations to install caps on (CTC-5s are not bad either) ...I wish I could comment on your eleven but the only roundy color RCAs I haven't worked on are the CTC-7 through CTC-12.

Well, i figured it would be some interest. the price they quoted me each was slightly less than what they retail for at Antique Electronic Supply.

i hate to restuff. i hate trying to fit caps under an already crammed chassis. id rather have the cans that can drop right in. and i rather not have my chassis look like some hack job with rerouted caps, etc.

But i guess the rest of you dont.

The CTC12 is very similar to the 15, only with a few different tubes. The flyback is very similar to the 11 fly. :scratch2:

I join those who hate/won't bother restuffing capacitors, there is no way I would mess with that, not to mention, I can't imagine how you would do it and still have it looking factory. On a couple of sets I've been working on recently I had new can caps made by hayseedhamfest.com. They produced exactly what I needed, at a price similar to the CE cans and delivery was in less than one week of submitting a quote request. For some reason (blind prejudice) they have been trashed on here because they produce a few capacitors for audio equipment, although there main focus is replacement caps for ham radio equipment.
I think they are an excellent source for such parts. It is very unlikely you will find 50 people who are restoring a ctc-11, or whatever particular model.

Would be nice if some company offered a "standard" size empty can with a four connection terminal board on the bottom with a can that screwed or snapped on so we could install what ever caps we wanted ourselves.

Ive been saying the same think about the empty can for years.

Here is a thread that I started on the AudioKarma site with pictures in June of 2012. It really isn't all that difficult and the results are excellent. The first one takes some time to get used to but it just works as they say.

Whether I restuff or place a terminal and use discrete capacitors depends on the "value" of the item being repaired. Restuffing those paper multi-section electrolytic capacitors can be a challenge. I have not tried it yet but have many awaiting the perfect way without destroying it. Read down through the post because there are many suggestions by other members.

What is important to me is the steel "common" ring. They are almost always destroyed when you disassemble the capacitor. I have quite a few NOS electrolytic capacitors and I just cut one open to "steal" the unused steel ring. Also, NOS capacitors come with a new phenolic and steel mounting plate as well (usually).

The first mistake that I made when rebuilding the first capacitor was drilling out the rivets on the Scott amplifier. If you have an NOS capacitor to get the steel ring out of, you can just remove all connections and then straighten out the tabs. If one breaks, no worries. Then, you just remount the newly rebuilt capacitor in the phenolic ring.

I hope all of this makes sense. It sure makes for a nice looking job and after the first one, it will take less than an hour to do. Remember, you don't have to fill up the capacitor with tar or wax. Just support the new electrolytic capacitors with something so that they don't flop about. And, there is no real need to make the inside of the old can spotlessly clean. Who will see it? Does it matter? Well, of course not.

The link:

http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.p...citors.448773/

I agree highly. Makes the job of stuffing a capacitor easy, keeps the set looking period correct. Win-Win for authenticity and functionality. Makes the set look way better.